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Old 07-30-2010, 12:14 PM   #5371
muddyrabbit
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Pretty hard to go wrong at that price. Were they a noticeable improvement over the stockers?

Any other options from the asylum?
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Old 07-30-2010, 12:45 PM   #5372
Bob Onit
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muddyrabbit
Pretty hard to go wrong at that price. Were they a noticeable improvement over the stockers?

Any other options from the asylum?
I have the same foot pegs for about a year and so far they've been great. They've taken quite a few hard hits with no damage.

Very comfortable
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Old 07-30-2010, 12:50 PM   #5373
Greg Bender
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Onit
I have the same foot pegs for about a year and so far they've been great. They've taken quite a few hard hits with no damage.

Very comfortable
Ditto...I like that they are nice and wide. They handled my heavier weight of 245lb without any trouble...no worries now that I've lost a bunch :>

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 07-30-2010, 12:59 PM   #5374
yondering
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rockt
Hey.

Just bought a nice '95 DR250, (there doesn't seem to be a separate DR250 thread - hope you don't mind me asking here), and I have a spare set of bark busters I'd like to install on what I believe are the stock bars. Trouble is, there is solid steel inside the bars at each end, (I'm guessing for anti-vibration). I've been drilling for about an hour now and I'm not through yet, (maybe 3/4" deep). Has anyone encountered this? How deep does that steel go? How did you hog it out to install bark buster guards?

Any input is greatly appreciated 'cause it feels like I might be drilling 'til the middle of next week.
Your bark busters attach to the bar end with a bolt, right? Don't drill out the bar, just drill and tap it for the right bolt threads, and bolt the bark busters on. This is stronger and better.

Getting new aluminum bars would still be better though.
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Old 07-30-2010, 04:01 PM   #5375
rockt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yondering
Your bark busters attach to the bar end with a bolt, right? Don't drill out the bar, just drill and tap it for the right bolt threads, and bolt the bark busters on. This is stronger and better.

Getting new aluminum bars would still be better though.

Doh! Never thought of that. And it's a good idea. Too late, though, I already drilled a big hole in the left side. The steel goes on FOREVER. I think I got almost 2" deep before I gave up. Unless I can fill in the hole with some kind of liquid weld(?? - would JB Weld do it?) or something, and tap it, I think I'm screwed. I'll either have to get new bars, or I have a friend with a Hilti who could probably hog it out, but the hole I drilled is a little off center and now there's a risk of going into the bar itself. What a bunch of aggravation.
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Old 07-30-2010, 04:14 PM   #5376
MrPulldown
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I have the same pegs. Best $20 ever spent. Most of my buddies think that they are much more expensive. Great improvmetn for when the trail gets a little sketchy. Installation was less than five minutes. More like 30 seconds of acutal work per side.

I agree with bark buster install on the stock bar. Drill and tap the OEM bar. Works great. It is difficult to tap the bar. The plug is deep and it takes some patience. Drill the right size hole. Then run the tap in. When tapping remember to use plently of oil, and 1/4 turn in and back it out again. Be VERY carefull and do not break a bit or a tap in the hole, or you'll be sorry.
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Old 07-30-2010, 04:18 PM   #5377
dirtclod
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battery ?

had to get a new battery. walmart had one but its 3/4 in shorter than stock. a stock batterys 45 miles away. will it stiil work with a block under it?
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Old 07-30-2010, 04:22 PM   #5378
Bob Onit
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtclod
had to get a new battery. walmart had one but its 3/4 in shorter than stock. a stock batterys 45 miles away. will it stiil work with a block under it?
Did you compare the amperage, CCA between the two?

Do you have electric start?

Details please!
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Old 07-30-2010, 04:25 PM   #5379
dirtclod
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Onit
Did you compare the amperage, CCA between the two?

Do you have electric start?

Details please!
well thats why i'm askin. batt num is es5lbs the right one is es7ibs thats all i know yes estart
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Old 07-30-2010, 04:52 PM   #5380
Bob Onit
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtclod
well thats why i'm askin. batt num is es5lbs the right one is es7ibs thats all i know yes estart
I'm running a WalMart es4 in my '91 DR350. It's a kick start and the box/instructions don't give you very much information on the battery specs.

I'm pretty sure the es5 would work no problem in the warmer months and probably fine in the colder months as well.
I believe the WalMart MC batteries have a 1 yr warranty so you can always return it and get the proper battery (Yuasa) if you're not satisfied.

If youre in a pinch...I'd try the WallMart e5 because you can return it easily.
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Old 07-30-2010, 04:55 PM   #5381
rockt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPulldown
I have the same pegs. Best $20 ever spent. Most of my buddies think that they are much more expensive. Great improvmetn for when the trail gets a little sketchy. Installation was less than five minutes. More like 30 seconds of acutal work per side.

I agree with bark buster install on the stock bar. Drill and tap the OEM bar. Works great. It is difficult to tap the bar. The plug is deep and it takes some patience. Drill the right size hole. Then run the tap in. When tapping remember to use plently of oil, and 1/4 turn in and back it out again. Be VERY carefull and do not break a bit or a tap in the hole, or you'll be sorry.

So what do I do with the big hole, (off-center, somewhat), I already drilled in the left side? Do you think I can fill it with JB Weld, then drill and tap it? Or am I screwed?

Thanks for your input guys.
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Old 07-30-2010, 05:07 PM   #5382
Bob Onit
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rockt
So what do I do with the big hole, (off-center, somewhat), I already drilled in the left side? Do you think I can fill it with JB Weld, then drill and tap it? Or am I screwed?

Thanks for your input guys.
I would stop screwing with the stock bars. You can buy a set of Moose bars for $20 or less
Great bars.
Bring your old bars to a bike shop and match them up with what they have in stock... or while you're there, sit on other brand bikes and choose the type that feels best to you and buy them.
I hate the stock DR350 bars, the hand grip area bends in way to much which is very un-natural. I use CR hi Bend bars

It would probably cost you half as much in JB weld to do the job half assed than to buy new bars...

I'm guessing at that with the 1st drop of the bike with the JB welded bark busters and you're back to square one.

Bob Onit screwed with this post 07-30-2010 at 05:16 PM
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Old 07-30-2010, 05:08 PM   #5383
tominboise
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rockt
So what do I do with the big hole, (off-center, somewhat), I already drilled in the left side? Do you think I can fill it with JB Weld, then drill and tap it? Or am I screwed?

Thanks for your input guys.
If you've oversized it, it's probably too late to do it right and not worth the effort anyway. One could weld it up and then redrill and tap, but for $28 for a new setup from RockyMountain, it's not worth it. Order a new bar and install...
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Old 07-30-2010, 05:12 PM   #5384
MrPulldown
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Did your bark busters come with the expando fitting. If so drill that side out all the way till it will fit the exando. Then tap the other side.

The moose racing set that I got came with the expando and a tap.
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Old 07-30-2010, 05:15 PM   #5385
rockt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPulldown
Did your bark busters come with the expando fitting. If so drill that side out all the way till it will fit the exando. Then tap the other side.

The moose racing set that I got came with the expando and a tap.

Yeah, they've go the expando fitting. Probably do that... or get new bars.
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