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Old 08-17-2010, 08:42 PM   #5551
Bowtie76
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Joined: Jan 2007
Location: Charlottesville
Oddometer: 318
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Onit
Heres an electric start wiring diagram

Should be fine for '94 to '99-SE models.

Download it to your pc so you can zoom in on it to see it more clearly.
Bob,

Thanks that is exactly what I needed.
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Old 08-17-2010, 08:44 PM   #5552
bthebert
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Oddometer: 203
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hotspice
Cleaned my needle and checked seat and both seemed ok. Put everythign back together and it still puked gas. After closer review, #17 and #12 were both bad.

While you've got it apart and are getting parts I'd spend the couple of bucks and get them both.
What you say makes sense.

It's all back together and running like a champ for the moment, however. (I've gotten remarkably good/quick at getting it out and back in, I must say.)

I intend to score a bunch of replacement parts for it, just to have them handy. I had to improvise a few things (e.g., a not-quite-right but adequate #12 o-ring, a lightweight compression spring over the choke plunger shaft with worn-out detents, a bowl gasket that probably shouldn't have been reused, etc.)

Perhaps a complete overhaul will be a winter project. But for the moment I'm content to enjoy it as it is.
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Old 08-17-2010, 08:50 PM   #5553
SloSolo2
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Does this look right to you?

I'm back to work on my DR rebuild and need help. I have nothing to compare to but this wasn't what I expected. Should I get another Triple Tree?

Thanks,
Jamie


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Old 08-17-2010, 09:33 PM   #5554
slartidbartfast
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Location: Southern Louisiana or Southern England or ...
Oddometer: 4,853
Oil leak fixed

I took care of this a couple of weeks ago and thought I'd share some insights with the rest of the DR350 ADVers. A few months ago, my 93 developed an annoying oil leak after I pulled the cam cover to adjust valves and torque head bolts (manual says to do both at the same time which is obviously NOT what the designers intended or they would make the head bolts accessible via separate covers in the manner of the valve adjustments) I couldn't work out exactly where it was coming from and while it wasn't "marking its territory", everything on the left side of the bike was starting to acquire a film of oil, including my boot.

Assuming I had not done a good job of replacing the cam cover, I removed it again to re-seal with a better sealant. Upon reassembly the leak was 10x worse. I had a clue to the origin this time, however, as one of the cam cover bolts didn't "feel right" coming out (with hindsight it had never felt "right") and wouldn't take proper torque when I reassembled everything.

Four bolts in the cam cover have rubber sealing washers under them. The one circled below was the one leaking.


Upon removing the four bolts for closer examination, only one was stripped (a neat thread of aluminium came out with it) but the reason it was stripped was almost certainly that the sealing washers have been re-used umpteen times and are old and hard. Most likely someone previously overtorqued the bolts to try and compensate.


Here's the stripped hole


And here it is with a helicoil in place


The red grease is residue from the huge dollop I covered everything with in order to prevent any cutting chips from getting where they shouldn't (also stuffed a clean rag all around the valve spring area, etc.

I was very lazy and cheated on doing this job "properly". The location of the stripped bolt prevented me from getting at it with a drill and I didn't want to remove the engine from the frame or the head from the engine. I therefore used the tap to drill out the hole and cut the new thread. The tap was covered in grease and once I got it to bite, I turned it only 1/4 turn at a time, then back to break the chips, removing it for cleaning every 1-1/2 turns or so. If I had to do it again, I'm not sure I would use this method as the resulting screw thread, while solid, also feels a bit looser than I think it should.

Interestingly, there appears to be a cavity under these four bolt holes. Studying some photos on the web, there are passages alongside the cam tunnel and I wonder if there is a cooling oil flow through this area (or are they blocked by the gasket?) Just in case the cavity connects back to the sump, I was pretty careful to keep refreshing the grease covering the tap in order to prevent chips from getting down the hole (hope I was successful) and used a powerful magnet on a thin screwdriver to recover the tang from the helicoil.

By studying the cam cover, I noted why these four bolts need sealing washers - A pressurized lubricating oil passage flows around them four bolts inside the cam cover. It flows up adjacent to the bolt marked 1 in this picture, then through the rocker shaft, where some exits to lube the rocker and a small spray comes out onto the inlet cam lobe (from photos on the web, it appears that some DR350's also have a similar oil jet on the exhaust rocker but mine does not). Some oil then flows back down the stud marked 2 to lubricate the cam bearing and the remainder flows through a cross-drilling and back through the other rocker shaft to lubricate it.


Clever stuff! Here you can see the oil flow passages in the head more clearly (same numbering)


And here it is all back together. No leaks whatsoever after about a hundred miles in brutal Louisiana summer temps. I used new sealing washers with a light smear of ultra blue silicone sealant for good measure. The reason I couldn't originally work out where the leak was coming from is because it was running down by the spark plug and flowing out along the fins where it then seemed like it was coming from the front somewhere.


The moral of the story.....

Replace those little rubber sealing washers once in a while and be careful not to overtighten anything.
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Old 08-17-2010, 11:02 PM   #5555
BugsInMyTeeth
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Location: AJ,AZ - on the shores of dirtbike heaven
Oddometer: 25
My hillbilly inner clutch basket holder

I'm doing the timing chain. I need to get the basket off and the special tool fancy shmancy basket holder or even an old burnt inner clutch plate are nowhere to be had. I know I could grab one for nothing at the wrecking yard, but with my work schedule there's just no way I can get there. Is there any reason why I can't just put it in gear and lock the wheel? Or will that put too much stress on the trans?

thnx in adv

BTW, great writeup slartidbartfast
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Old 08-18-2010, 05:24 AM   #5556
shearboy2004
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Joined: Jun 2007
Location: Ft Collins ,Colorado
Oddometer: 4,387
Quote:
Originally Posted by BugsInMyTeeth
I'm doing the timing chain. I need to get the basket off and the special tool fancy shmancy basket holder or even an old burnt inner clutch plate are nowhere to be had. I know I could grab one for nothing at the wrecking yard, but with my work schedule there's just no way I can get there. Is there any reason why I can't just put it in gear and lock the wheel? Or will that put too much stress on the trans?

thnx in adv

BTW, great writeup slartidbartfast

You will be fine locking the rear wheel , I use a socket and long handle that I can smack with a hammer to undo the nut , a sharp whack with the hammer should get the job done fairly quickly.
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Old 08-18-2010, 06:16 AM   #5557
kimber45
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Location: Clay,MI
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i would definitely replace it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SloSolo2
I'm back to work on my DR rebuild and need help. I have nothing to compare to but this wasn't what I expected. Should I get another Triple Tree?

Thanks,
Jamie


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Old 08-18-2010, 06:41 AM   #5558
bthebert
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SloSolo2
Should I get another Triple Tree?
Uhmm . . . yeah.
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2005 F650GS Dakar
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Old 08-18-2010, 08:22 AM   #5559
sperz1
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slartidbartfast - Great repair, thanks for the walk through.
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Old 08-18-2010, 08:40 AM   #5560
Bronco638
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Location: Itasca, IL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SloSolo2
Should I get another Triple Tree?
I would. +3
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Old 08-18-2010, 06:47 PM   #5561
SloSolo2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronco638
I would. +3
OK thanks guys.

Jamie
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Old 08-18-2010, 07:09 PM   #5562
slartidbartfast
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Location: Southern Louisiana or Southern England or ...
Oddometer: 4,853
Quote:
Originally Posted by BugsInMyTeeth
I'm doing the timing chain. I need to get the basket off and the special tool fancy shmancy basket holder or even an old burnt inner clutch plate are nowhere to be had. I know I could grab one for nothing at the wrecking yard, but with my work schedule there's just no way I can get there. Is there any reason why I can't just put it in gear and lock the wheel? Or will that put too much stress on the trans?

thnx in adv

BTW, great writeup slartidbartfast
Thanks for the praise. I'm still a bit embarrassed that I didn't take the time to do it "properly" (although time for bike stuff is something I have very little of, so I do anything I can to speed my way back from wrenching to riding)

I have had good luck holding clutch baskets on numerous bikes using the rear brake in the past, although I have not tried it with the DR yet. I'm always a bit wary of beating on anything with a hammer if it is connected to bearings - I'd try just a really long torque bar first (found a three-foot 1/2" drive torque bar at Harbor Freight for just a few bucks).
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January 2010 New Zealand South Island ride
Summer 2009 UK to Alps ride
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Old 08-19-2010, 04:15 PM   #5563
bradlln
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Where can I get some cheap plastics for a '99 DR350SE?
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Old 08-20-2010, 02:41 PM   #5564
Aquarelle
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Basic rail to rack/carrier

On eBay recently there was a guy in the States whose service was to take a basic grabrail and weld bits on to it making it into a lovely rack. He could do it in different colours. Does anyone know this guy and how I can get in touch with him?
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Old 08-20-2010, 04:33 PM   #5565
bthebert
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aquarelle
On eBay recently there was a guy in the States whose service was to take a basic grabrail and weld bits on to it making it into a lovely rack. He could do it in different colours. Does anyone know this guy and how I can get in touch with him?
His name is Brian. I expect you should be able to find his past auctions on ebay (if he has no current auctions, that is). Otherwise, he's been known to hang out at maximum-suzuki.com
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