DR350 Thread

[Bob Onit]

Originally Posted by MiteyF

No one can answer this for me?

Cush drive hubs (they have little rubber blocks in the hub) are different than the Dirt model, or the newer S model hubs (non crush drive) they require different sprockets.

What year are the spare wheels?

You can check any DR part number for cross reference here.
Just enter the the required information.

http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm/.../2/Make/Suzuki

[DisTech]

Originally Posted by MiteyF

I have a question maybe someone can help me with.

My 93 S is my daily commuter, and I've got dual sport tires on her. I also have an extra set of wheels with knobbies for when I do the dirty stuff. The rear wheel is off of a dirt model, and when I went to put it on, the sprocket from my stock S wheel did not fit. Just wondering if the bushings are the same from the S to the dirt model, or what I will have to change to use the dirt model wheel on my S besides the sprocket.

Any help would be great. Looking to do a bit of dirt riding before the season is over!

Originally Posted by Bob Onit

Cush drive hubs (they have little rubber blocks in the hub) are different than the Dirt model, or the newer S model hubs (non crush drive) they require different sprockets.

What year are the spare wheels?

You can check any DR part number for cross reference here...

Bob, I thought the same thing you did. In fact I looked all this junk up:

• 1990 L DR350, DR350S
• 1991 M DR350, DR350S
• 1992 N DR350, DR350S
• 1993 P DR350, DR350S
• 1994 R DR350, DR350SE
• 1995 S DR350, DR350SE
• 1996 T DR350, DR350SE
• 1997 V DR350, DR350SE
• 1998 W DR350, DR350SE
• 1999 X DR350, DR350SE

1990-93 DR350 L/M/N/P

• SPROCKET, REAR (NT:46) 64511-14D31
• SPROCKET, REAR (NT:47) 64511-14D00
• SPROCKET, REAR (NT:46) 64511-14D40
• SPROCKET, REAR (NT:48) 64511-14D60

1994-99 DR350 R/S/T/V/W/X

• SPROCKET, REAR (NT:43) 64511-14D70
• SPROCKET, REAR (NT:44) 64511-14D80
• SPROCKET, REAR (NT:45) 64511-14D90
• SPROCKET, REAR (NT:43) 64511-08D40
• SPROCKET, REAR (NT:44) 64511-08D50

1990-96 DR350 L/M/N/P/R/S/T

• HUB, REAR WHEEL 64111-03D00

1997-99 DR350 V/W/X

• HUB, REAR WHEEL 64111-14D10

1990-93 DR350S L/M/N/P

• SPROCKET, REAR (NT:43) 64511-22D11

1994-95 DR350SE R/S

• SPROCKET, REAR (NT:41) 64511-15D50

1996-99 DR350SE T/V/W/X

• SPROCKET, REAR (NT:41) 64511-14E00

1990-93 DR350S L/M/N/P & 1994-95 DR350SE R/S

• HUB, REAR WHEEL 64111-15D00

1996-99 DR350SE T/V/W/X

• HUB, REAR WHEEL 64111-14D10

But now re-reading the question , I think Mitey just wants to know if there is anything besides the sprocket to do the wheel swap.

Mitey, I think it's a straight swap. Let us know.

[MiteyF]

Originally Posted by Bob Onit

Cush drive hubs (they have little rubber blocks in the hub) are different than the Dirt model, or the newer S model hubs (non crush drive) they require different sprockets.

What year are the spare wheels?

You can check any DR part number for cross reference here.
Just enter the the required information.

http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm/.../2/Make/Suzuki

I don't know what year it is off of. I checked the fiche at Ron Ayers earlier and didn't really get anywhere, it looks like I'll just have to measure and make some bushings. I was just hoping there was an easier solution. I found out the sprockets were different when I tried to fit mine to this wheel. I knew the non S models were not a cush drive, but did not know how different they were. Should have done my research I suppose. I know they've been fitted to S models before, but can't find a detailed writeup on exactly how it was done and was hoping someone here knew.

Here's the wheel, don't know if it helps at all, but it's the pic provided from the ebay auction when I bought it.

[Ghostpilots]

Originally Posted by MiteyF

If you put a 15 on the front you should have enough adjustment in your chain to use the 108 if you keep the 43 out back.

So another question; will it go the other way as well? Can I also purchase a 13T for trails and swap that in with no need to change the rear or chain?

EDIT: Would moving to 15/41 110 link like the 93 and up make an appreciable difference either? I really do not run a ton of trails on the 350, but seem to be doing a lot of highway miles and I'll give the old girl any break I can get

[SloSolo2]

Originally Posted by MiteyF

I don't know what year it is off of. I checked the fiche at Ron Ayers earlier and didn't really get anywhere, it looks like I'll just have to measure and make some bushings. I was just hoping there was an easier solution. I found out the sprockets were different when I tried to fit mine to this wheel. I knew the non S models were not a cush drive, but did not know how different they were. Should have done my research I suppose. I know they've been fitted to S models before, but can't find a detailed writeup on exactly how it was done and was hoping someone here knew.

Here's the wheel, don't know if it helps at all, but it's the pic provided from the ebay auction when I bought it.

Maybe you could trade that wheel with someone who has one from the year range you need via the flea market?

Jamie

[MiteyF]

That's a possibility, but there's not much DR stuff in there that I've found... may post an ad though. Unfortunately it's an almost new rear tire I just had put on!

[Rex Nemo]

Hey y'all, apologies in advance for the novice questions...I'm still searching through this thread. I love my DR650 but want to get something smaller but still street-legal for surface streets and more challenging dirt.

I'm looking at a pair of DR350s tomorrow...a '93 with a supermoto setup and spare dirt wheels and aftermarket tank (4900 miles, ask $2200) and a '92 with 2500 miles, carb recently cleaned, and nothing but a FMF exhaust (ask $1500).

I'm leaning towards the cheaper '92, but will have to see them to be sure. What should a relative newbie to thumpers know about these bikes, and look for in a used one? From my reading it seems that a hard-to-find neutral is a warning sign.

[shearboy2004]

Originally Posted by Rex Nemo

Hey y'all, apologies in advance for the novice questions...I'm still searching through this thread. I love my DR650 but want to get something smaller but still street-legal for surface streets and more challenging dirt.

I'm looking at a pair of DR350s tomorrow...a '93 with a supermoto setup and spare dirt wheels and aftermarket tank (4900 miles, ask $2200) and a '92 with 2500 miles, carb recently cleaned, and nothing but a FMF exhaust (ask $1500).

I'm leaning towards the cheaper '92, but will have to see them to be sure. What should a relative newbie to thumpers know about these bikes, and look for in a used one? From my reading it seems that a hard-to-find neutral is a warning sign.

$2200 for a 93 sounds to me to be bloody high, it would need to be a SE model with electric start before i would even look at it .

$1500 for the 92 is still high in my opinion unless it is in really good condition , the FMF exhaust are wonderful for creating noise and annoying the folks next door.

They should start easy and run quiet, they are really solid machines but a worn carb can make them run like crap , make sure they idle well with no spluttering , if the seller has started them before you get there be suspicious. Touch engine to make sure.

[1TufMarine]

Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr!

Damn electrical gremlins !

96 SE

Will not fire with the magic button. It will push start so that eliminates a few problems. Tore into the button assembly itself and it looks fine.

I have it all broke down ( seat off, guage cluster broke down, etc...) but am kinda at a loss as to what to start testing....

I have the Clymer manual ( through 94) but the wiring diagram is not exact close may not help this time.

Anyone wanna take a stab at helping me weed out the ....








The problem kinda came on slow....meaning it started a few times after dicking with it . I adjusted the clutch cable some thinking that maybe it wasn't engaging the switch and that seemed to work...once....

so......


My head makes me want to blame the clutch switch. I know this has been covered but I can't find it fast and I am in dire need of my bike to be running ASAP! I don't want to just start chopping wires either.

[rubberband]

confirm the kickstand switch and clutch switches are working properly....or wire them out of the system. It's a good place to start.

Does the easy button work? Check the contacts.
Any noise from the starter?

[1TufMarine]

Originally Posted by rubberband

confirm the kickstand switch and clutch switches are working properly....or wire them out of the system. It's a good place to start.

Does the easy button work? Check the contacts.
Any noise from the starter?

Pretty sure the kickstand switch is working OK because I can push start it. The clutch switch is my main suspect at this point. I wanna start by eliminating it but am not sure of that procedure just yet.

Yes I 'think' the easy button is Ok...I have it apart and all looks pretty sweet in there.

No noise from the starter. It isn't getting fire due to whatever. I suppose the starter could actually be the problem but I doubt it. It started to many times as this problem progressed. My best guess is something in the switching process.

I need to get out there and put a meter on stuff but I am a total idiot when it comes to tracing stuff like this.

Process of elimination ....I need to make sure my wire cutters are well hidden!



Thanks for replying...I need the moral support at the very least!....

[tpar1220]

Pretty sure the kickstand switch is working OK because I can push start it. The clutch switch is my main suspect at this point. I wanna start by eliminating it but am not sure of that procedure just yet.

Yes I 'think' the easy button is Ok...I have it apart and all looks pretty sweet in there.

No noise from the starter. It isn't getting fire due to whatever. I suppose the starter could actually be the problem but I doubt it. It started to many times as this problem progressed. My best guess is something in the switching process.

I need to get out there and put a meter on stuff but I am a total idiot when it comes to tracing stuff like this.

Process of elimination ....I need to make sure my wire cutters are well hidden!



Thanks for replying...I need the moral support at the very least!....

for the clutch switch you don't even have to cut anything. take the headlight cover off and follow the wires coming from the clutch switch to behind the headlight cover. then simply unplug them and plug the two from harness back into each other. 5 min job.

my buddy picked up a 99se, the po had been starting it using a screwdriver... jumping the selenoid. i bypassed the clutch switch and starter works perfectly.

[MiteyF]

Originally Posted by shearboy2004

$2200 for a 93 sounds to me to be bloody high, it would need to be a SE model with electric start before i would even look at it .

$1500 for the 92 is still high in my opinion unless it is in really good condition , the FMF exhaust are wonderful for creating noise and annoying the folks next door.

They should start easy and run quiet, they are really solid machines but a worn carb can make them run like crap , make sure they idle well with no spluttering , if the seller has started them before you get there be suspicious. Touch engine to make sure.

I paid 1500 for my 93 S with about 4k on the clock, running/riding perfectly.

As to the FMF comment, I bought my bike with stock exhaust and put an FMF pipe on. When I bought the bike I had 5 people in 3 days pull out RIGHT in front of me. "Loud pipes save lives" may be a bit extreme, but I love knowing I can be heard. It's like having a bright headlight - sure, some people will bitch when it shines in their eyes from the other lane... but I'd rather have an angry cager that sees me than a happy one who doesn't any day of the week.

[1TufMarine]

Originally Posted by tpar1220

for the clutch switch you don't even have to cut anything. take the headlight cover off and follow the wires coming from the clutch switch to behind the headlight cover. then simply unplug them and plug the two from harness back into each other. 5 min job.

my buddy picked up a 99se, the po had been starting it using a screwdriver... jumping the selenoid. i bypassed the clutch switch and starter works perfectly.

Continuity test are coming out good across the whole circuit as far as starter button all the way to the clutch switch.

I see what you are saying about just plugging them together. I'll try that.

Kickstand switch seems fine because it will push start. Or am I wrong not to suspect that?

I'm stumped at this point. Starter relay maybe?

[1TufMarine]

It's kicking my ass no having the wiring diagram.

Anyone know where the heck the later model diagrams are?

I swear someone posted one but jeesh I have no clue who or how far back?