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Old 09-19-2010, 06:44 AM   #5851
SilverBullet
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Joined: Oct 2009
Location: Harmaston, TX
Oddometer: 403
any former DR650 owners here?

I thinking about swapping my DR650 for a DR350.

My two biggest reasons being 100 lbs less weight and electric start (my 650 is an old kicker only).

What will I miss if anything from the 650?
I'm not an adventure rider so I don't pack my bike heavy. Just tools and water for weekend rides.

_
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Old 09-19-2010, 08:07 AM   #5852
EastBoundAndDown
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Location: Lawrenceville, GA
Oddometer: 581
Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverBullet
I thinking about swapping my DR650 for a DR350.

My two biggest reasons being 100 lbs less weight and electric start (my 650 is an old kicker only).

What will I miss if anything from the 650?
I'm not an adventure rider so I don't pack my bike heavy. Just tools and water for weekend rides.

_
I cant imaging a kick DR650 being 100lbs heavier than an electric start DR350. Maybe 50lbs?

Its a matter of how much you ride in the dirt. On the street youll lose power and stability, in the dirt youll gain A LOT. If your riding just dirt and fire roads and street, keep the 650. Any more time spent in the dirt, the 350 is better do-it-all IMO. Plus, the E-start is nice.
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Old 09-19-2010, 08:07 AM   #5853
EastBoundAndDown
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Thanks for the advice on my throttle cable, I forgot it could be the throttle tube as well. I'll take it all apart and have a look.
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Old 09-19-2010, 12:50 PM   #5854
plugeye
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Joined: May 2007
Location: Garland, Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverBullet
I thinking about swapping my DR650 for a DR350.

My two biggest reasons being 100 lbs less weight and electric start (my 650 is an old kicker only).

What will I miss if anything from the 650?
I'm not an adventure rider so I don't pack my bike heavy. Just tools and water for weekend rides.

_
wet-sump
oil cooler
you wont miss only 5-spds
big torque
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Old 09-19-2010, 04:49 PM   #5855
Peatrich
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Location: Sheffield UK
Oddometer: 14
Hi Yondering
I realised when my Clymer arrived that I could have done the job with the engine in, but it will be good to clean and check the engine and clean up the frame etc while the engine is out of the way.
I have taken the top of the engine apart and there are no obvious problems. Now I am getting out the micrometer to check tolerances before I order parts.
Is it possible to order piston rings for the stock piston or is Wiseco the way to go?
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Old 09-19-2010, 05:11 PM   #5856
mouthfulloflake
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Location: N.W. Arkansas
Oddometer: 16,507
1991 DR350 ( dirt model) pumper carb

fuel streaming out of the carb bowl drain plug when the fuel is on.
with fuel valve turned off, the drain screw stops and starts the fuel flow.

are the threads worn out? or is this indicative of a bad needle/seat?

I appreciate in advance any thoughts on this.
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Old 09-19-2010, 05:34 PM   #5857
DisTech
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mouthfulloflake
1991 DR350 ( dirt model) pumper carb

fuel streaming out of the carb bowl drain plug when the fuel is on.
with fuel valve turned off, the drain screw stops and starts the fuel flow.

are the threads worn out? or is this indicative of a bad needle/seat?

I appreciate in advance any thoughts on this.
Stuck float?
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Old 09-19-2010, 06:10 PM   #5858
mouthfulloflake
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I dont think its stuck ( ive been thru the carb a few months ago)
ive been told the float level is set too high, and its pouring back down that brass tube ( which bypasses the bowl drain screw)

make sense to you?

Quote:
Originally Posted by DisTech
Stuck float?
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Old 09-19-2010, 06:32 PM   #5859
outbackrider
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Fuel overflowing

Quote:
Originally Posted by mouthfulloflake
I dont think its stuck ( ive been thru the carb a few months ago)
ive been told the float level is set too high, and its pouring back down that brass tube ( which bypasses the bowl drain screw)

make sense to you?

Mouthfull-
I had the same problem, hope this helps. Jesse at Kientech helped me here.
There is an o-ring in the float needle valve that needed to be replaced on
mine. I have the dirt model also. Open up carb, remove the floats and float needle valve. Unscrew the needle valve brass assembly and in there is an o-ring. The ring probably looks okay, but the outer edge is mostlikely flat and gas is pouring in around the o-ring....once I replaced mine, like magic the fuel stopped gushing in....
When I bought the bike, previous owner told me that he didn't have much fuel in the tank because he didn't want it to get gummed up....yeah right it was because it was leaking fuel out of the carb overflow and he didn't know how to fix it....just bring the brass assembly to a bike/auto shop and they should be able to fix you right up. Hope this helps. I doubt the float is out of adjustment...I believe Jesse said in order to measure this, the bottom of the float when the floats are in the closed position they should measure 9/16 of an inch from the bottom rim of the carb, with the carb body bottom off.
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Old 09-19-2010, 06:45 PM   #5860
mouthfulloflake
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Thanks for that outback rider!

I will pull it apart and replace that O ring, IM very familiar with the mikuni needle, and seats, from 2 stroke PWC stuff.

thanks!




Quote:
Originally Posted by outbackrider
Mouthfull-
I had the same problem, hope this helps. Jesse at Kientech helped me here.
There is an o-ring in the float needle valve that needed to be replaced on
mine. I have the dirt model also. Open up carb, remove the floats and float needle valve. Unscrew the needle valve brass assembly and in there is an o-ring. The ring probably looks okay, but the outer edge is mostlikely flat and gas is pouring in around the o-ring....once I replaced mine, like magic the fuel stopped gushing in....
When I bought the bike, previous owner told me that he didn't have much fuel in the tank because he didn't want it to get gummed up....yeah right it was because it was leaking fuel out of the carb overflow and he didn't know how to fix it....just bring the brass assembly to a bike/auto shop and they should be able to fix you right up. Hope this helps. I doubt the float is out of adjustment...I believe Jesse said in order to measure this, the bottom of the float when the floats are in the closed position they should measure 9/16 of an inch from the bottom rim of the carb, with the carb body bottom off.
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Old 09-19-2010, 07:37 PM   #5861
rsamsel
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Joined: Sep 2010
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Crashed my baby--Need info plz!

Hey all ...sorry for the short post but having to due it one handed due to a broken arm in my wreck!

Bike: 1999 DR350SE
Damage: fork legs...bars...handguards..shifter

It will be fairly easy to fix it seems. The frame seems fine. The questions I have involve the fork. The model/fork combo has me confused. What forks will fit the bike as a direct bolt on or minor mods(please let me know what mods will be needed). I am not opposed to an upgrade...some say the rm/rmz fork will fit. I just need info of what will fit so I can get to looking for and ordering parts so when I am out of my cast I can have the bike back on the road.

I have some mecahnical skills but machine shop type work is over my head so bolt on/close fitting swaps are preferred.

Thanks for the info guys...I will talk up the DR more when I can type better. I love the bike (23,000 miles currently) Hopefully I can get it back together and increase that number.
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Old 09-19-2010, 08:01 PM   #5862
divotdm
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Location: Kewaskum, WI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rsamsel
Hey all ...sorry for the short post but having to due it one handed due to a broken arm in my wreck!

Bike: 1999 DR350SE
Damage: fork legs...bars...handguards..shifter

It will be fairly easy to fix it seems. The frame seems fine. The questions I have involve the fork. The model/fork combo has me confused. What forks will fit the bike as a direct bolt on or minor mods(please let me know what mods will be needed). I am not opposed to an upgrade...some say the rm/rmz fork will fit. I just need info of what will fit so I can get to looking for and ordering parts so when I am out of my cast I can have the bike back on the road.

I have some mecahnical skills but machine shop type work is over my head so bolt on/close fitting swaps are preferred.

Thanks for the info guys...I will talk up the DR more when I can type better. I love the bike (23,000 miles currently) Hopefully I can get it back together and increase that number.

Hi,

I just put a 91 KX250 usd front end on my 95 dr350 and it almost bolted right in. I had to file doown the stem a little to get the upper bearing to seat in the race and put a spacer( ace hardware) under the top nut. It was a piece of cake. Picked up a complete front end off craigslist for $150.
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Old 09-20-2010, 12:36 AM   #5863
DisTech
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Location: Seattle
Oddometer: 616
Quote:
Originally Posted by mouthfulloflake
Thanks for that outback rider!

I will pull it apart and replace that O ring, IM very familiar with the mikuni needle, and seats, from 2 stroke PWC stuff.

thanks!
Interested in what you find.
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Old 09-20-2010, 08:23 AM   #5864
SilverBullet
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Location: Harmaston, TX
Oddometer: 403
Quote:
Originally Posted by EastBoundAndDown
I cant imaging a kick DR650 being 100lbs heavier than an electric start DR350. Maybe 50lbs?
According to Suzuki specs my '91 650 weighs in at 378 lbs dry. The 350 is 286 lbs. dry. So 92 lbs less dry, add gas and the difference is 98 lbs.

Quote:
Originally Posted by plugeye
wet-sump
oil cooler
you wont miss only 5-spds
big torque


dry sump could be considered better correct?

_
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Old 09-20-2010, 09:20 AM   #5865
Kawidad
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Location: Central Coast, Cal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverBullet
According to Suzuki specs my '91 650 weighs in at 378 lbs dry. The 350 is 286 lbs. dry. So 92 lbs less dry, add gas and the difference is 98 lbs.

[/i]

dry sump could be considered better correct?

_
I had an older DR650SE and they are heavy. Suzuki Inc did a really good job of trimming the weight of the bike when it was redesigned in 1996.
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