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Old 09-29-2010, 02:37 PM   #5956
shearboy2004
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Location: Ft Collins ,Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yondering
Cool. I really like the MT43 rear on my DR for singletrack, but haven't tried the front. It has some downsides, but is worth it in our slick roots/rocks/mud trails we have in the PNW.

You mentioned not doing much high speed dirt cornering, but can you give an opinion on how that front tire works in that situation? I felt like the rear MT43 ruined the high speed gravel road handling; does the front make it even worse?

What I have found is that the benefits far out weigh the downsides.

Because the tread runs out quicker on the tires edge I have just changed my riding style on gravel roads , namely keeping the bike more upright and leaning my big fat ass off more. This works great for what I do but if that was what I was mainly riding I would go back to a good knobbie.

They let go a little quicker than a knobbie but not in an unpredictable way. I don't see myself ever changing back, the single track handling and wear factor have me convinced they are the only tires for me.
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shearboy2004 screwed with this post 09-29-2010 at 05:39 PM
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Old 09-30-2010, 08:49 AM   #5957
gtbensley
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Looking at picking up a 97 dr350se in decent condition. Has been riden a fair amount but looks like it has been taken care of for the most part. Whats the going rate for a 97 dr350? I see a drz400 go for $1300 every once in a while and would like to spend well under this.

Thanks
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Old 09-30-2010, 09:19 AM   #5958
Ghostpilots
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Onit
I agree with Minnesota
If you're seeing any oil leaking around the CS sprocket then I would suspect the CS seal.

If the CS cover is still there , remove it and clean the area, let it idle and see if it's leaking. I wouldnt keep running a DR350 that's using that much oil as cylinder heads are very hard to come by. Starve the cam shaft journals of oil and it's pretty much a parts bike.

Even without the CS cover in place, if the CS seal is bad you should see a some oil on the ground near the shift lever when parked or when at idle.
Put some news paper down under the CS/shifter area and see if it's leaking
Sorry for the completely late reply on this- but which part no would the countershaft seal be?

I am assuming it is part no 28 in this diagram

here

which would corrospoind to part number 09280-33004. am I correct here? How easy is it to replace a CS seal? I would rather avoid a shop, if at all possible. Thanks!
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Old 09-30-2010, 09:30 AM   #5959
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghostpilots
Sorry for the completely late reply on this- but which part no would the countershaft seal be?

I am assuming it is part no 28 in this diagram

here

which would corrospoind to part number 09280-33004. am I correct here? How easy is it to replace a CS seal? I would rather avoid a shop, if at all possible. Thanks!
You'll want to look here. I believe you want #27

From the looks of the fiche, it should be a pretty straightforward job. The only trick is getting the old seal out. Having the proper tools helps a lot with that. Homemade tools work too!
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Old 09-30-2010, 09:31 AM   #5960
Bob Onit
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghostpilots
Sorry for the completely late reply on this- but which part no would the countershaft seal be?

I am assuming it is part no 28 in this diagram

here

which would corrospoind to part number 09280-33004. am I correct here? How easy is it to replace a CS seal? I would rather avoid a shop, if at all possible. Thanks!
It's part #27 in this diagram. It's directly behind the sprocket.

It's not a tough job to replace it if you're familiar with replacing seals.

http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm/...p/TRANSMISSION
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Old 09-30-2010, 09:31 AM   #5961
Bob Onit
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Minnesota
You'll want to look here. I believe you want #27
Beat me to it
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Old 09-30-2010, 09:34 AM   #5962
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Onit
Beat me to it
I figured someone else would be jumping on that one!

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Old 09-30-2010, 01:09 PM   #5963
KneeKicker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtbensley
Looking at picking up a 97 dr350se in decent condition. Has been riden a fair amount but looks like it has been taken care of for the most part. Whats the going rate for a 97 dr350? I see a drz400 go for $1300 every once in a while and would like to spend well under this.

Thanks

If you are finding DRZ's for $1300 go ahead and buy one of those.


A decent DR "S" model IMO is worth atleast $1500.
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Old 09-30-2010, 02:43 PM   #5964
Country Doc
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I wish you luck finding a $1300 DRZ400. If you do, it's going to need an absolute boat-load of work. You might (might!) find a kicker DR350 in decent condition for that price. The E-start ones will be more.

dc
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Old 09-30-2010, 03:55 PM   #5965
gtbensley
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Just watched one sell on Craigslist for $1250. Clean looking bike and ran decently. Needed a little carb cleaning and the gentlemen who owned it just didn't have the time to fix or ride it. Sold before I could get to it unfortunately. I'm hopefully going to look at this dr in the next day o so and then I will be able to see what type of condition its in.
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Old 09-30-2010, 04:47 PM   #5966
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I'd guess $2k to be a minimum for a good clean SE model DR350. There might be the odd rare bargain or fixer-upper, but for a running, clean-titled, clean and tidy bike you'll generally have to pay fair price.
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Old 09-30-2010, 07:09 PM   #5967
Ghostpilots
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A new symptom emerges! I've ordered the countershaft seal and the bike appears unhappy with the fact that I had finally figured out what was going wrong, because just today for the first time ever it began burning oil!

Big, blue clouds on startup today, which terrified the hell out of me. The oil level also remains unreadable, and this is approx 120km after a full 2L oil change last week. I am very afraid there is no oil left and I have blown my rings. Any other possibilities?
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Old 09-30-2010, 07:27 PM   #5968
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Blue smoke at start-up (and only at start-up) usually means leaky valve seals. When you shut the motor off oil in the top end leaks past the valves and into the combustion chamber. Start the bike up and it burns off this oil. Not sure what kind of valve seal set-up the Suzuki has.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghostpilots
A new symptom emerges! I've ordered the countershaft seal and the bike appears unhappy with the fact that I had finally figured out what was going wrong, because just today for the first time ever it began burning oil!

Big, blue clouds on startup today, which terrified the hell out of me. The oil level also remains unreadable, and this is approx 120km after a full 2L oil change last week. I am very afraid there is no oil left and I have blown my rings. Any other possibilities?
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Old 09-30-2010, 08:00 PM   #5969
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Don't run an engine without checking oil if you've any reason at all to suspect it might be low! Check it now, fill it properly then start it and see what's up. The rings are the least of your worries if you ran it without oil. The head is usually the first thing to go and its $$$. A bunch of smoke suggests that there was oil in there though and hopefully it wasn't run for very long. Its a super simple little motor, just have a look at the service manual to see how it all works and methodically work though it :)
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Old 09-30-2010, 08:06 PM   #5970
Country Doc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BikePilot
I'd guess $2k to be a minimum for a good clean SE model DR350. There might be the odd rare bargain or fixer-upper, but for a running, clean-titled, clean and tidy bike you'll generally have to pay fair price.


Wheelied your old bike around my back yard for the first time last night. Runs sweetly!

dc
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