ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Thumpers
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 10-24-2010, 09:15 AM   #6121
AaronK
Grumpy Grumperson
 
AaronK's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2005
Location: San Clemente, CA
Oddometer: 259
Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Bender
Hi snow4aaron,

The inside diameter of the o-ring is 15.8mm. The width (or cross-section) of the o-ring is 2.4mm.

The "only" harm in not running the o-ring is that there will not be a tight seal between the filter and the engine case. This will lead to oil not being forced through the filter as it should.

Short-term consequences? Nothing to worry about. Long-term consequences? Increased wear to everything the oil is supposed to lubricate. When I bought my DR350 used a year and a half ago, the o-ring was there, but the filter was installed backwards with the spring on the wrong side. I can't remember for sure if that was the exact arrangement, but I do know that the filter wasn't filtering anything. Bike continues to run good. Filtering engine oil is a very good thing.

Regards,

Gregory Bender
Gregory
Thank you for the fast reply and explanation.
AaronK is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-24-2010, 07:20 PM   #6122
RRMoto
n00b
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Location: Russia, Tobolsk
Oddometer: 4
jcalis, thanks, today, to try to dismantle and replace the resistor on a piece of wire.
RRMoto is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2010, 02:41 PM   #6123
boardrider247
Weekend Anarchist
 
boardrider247's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Forest Lake, mn
Oddometer: 506
Finally made a proper thread for my DR parts liquidation.

Find it here
http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=631455
boardrider247 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-26-2010, 03:17 AM   #6124
halmc
Turkey T*urd
 
halmc's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2007
Location: Tallahassee, Florida -- home of good ideas
Oddometer: 1,983
51T rear sprocket, anyone? I have a new Renthal, ordered by mistake, still in the blister pack, $20 to any lower 48 state inmate, including shipping. $15 Plus shipping outside da' 48. PM me if ya gotta have it.
__________________
BMW R1200RT; BMW K1200RS; KTM 300 XCW; BMW F650GS Dakar; KTM 400 EXC; Honda Ascot

* * *

Always forgive your enemies, but never forget their names -- JFK
halmc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-26-2010, 08:31 AM   #6125
Ghostpilots
Adventurer
 
Joined: May 2010
Oddometer: 91
Replaced the pads on my 1990 DR350S yesterday and ran into a bit of a problem. The front pads went on great, but when I went to replace the rear I found the piston nearly impossible to compress. After a LOT of wiggling and pulling, I managed to remove the old pads and immediately noticed that not only were they both severely worn down but that the right side pad that is pushed by the piston was worn down totally in the centre and 'U' shaped from pressure from the cylinder!

Now my problem is that since I cannot compress the piston, I cannot get both new brake pads back in! Opinions? I really have no idea what could be causing this, what I can do to fix it that ideally does not involve a full system bleed, or why it happened.
Ghostpilots is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-26-2010, 08:47 AM   #6126
Greg Bender
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Cave Creek, Arizona, United States
Oddometer: 1,081
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghostpilots
Replaced the pads on my 1990 DR350S yesterday and ran into a bit of a problem. The front pads went on great, but when I went to replace the rear I found the piston nearly impossible to compress. After a LOT of wiggling and pulling, I managed to remove the old pads and immediately noticed that not only were they both severely worn down but that the right side pad that is pushed by the piston was worn down totally in the centre and 'U' shaped from pressure from the cylinder!

Now my problem is that since I cannot compress the piston, I cannot get both new brake pads back in! Opinions? I really have no idea what could be causing this, what I can do to fix it that ideally does not involve a full system bleed, or why it happened.
Have you unscrewed the cap on the reservoir? That could be preventing the fluid from being pushed back up into the reservoir when you squeeze the piston.

Could be a collapsed line allowing fluid to move in one direction, but not the other.

Could be a mostly seized master cylinder or caliper piston.

Just some random thoughts...

Regards,

Gregory Bender
Greg Bender is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-26-2010, 08:50 AM   #6127
StmbtDave
AKA Invisible Dave
 
StmbtDave's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2005
Location: Loveland, CO summer - Green Valley, AZ winter
Oddometer: 2,860
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghostpilots
Now my problem is that since I cannot compress the piston, I cannot get both new brake pads back in! Opinions? I really have no idea what could be causing this, what I can do to fix it that ideally does not involve a full system bleed, or why it happened.
I suspect the linkage between the rear brake lever and the brake master cylinder is adjusted too tightly. This won't allow the master cylinder piston to return far enough to release the pressure to the caliper. You could open the bleed valve on the rear caliper which will allow the fluid to escape. This won't solve the problem but it will tell you if the caliper pistons are operating.

Dave
__________________
Why are we stopping? We don't have time for that!
StmbtDave is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-26-2010, 11:22 AM   #6128
MiteyF
Beastly Adventurer
 
MiteyF's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2010
Location: Michigan... temporarily
Oddometer: 1,885
I'm about to do a little tune up (valves, oil, and take a look at my clutch) and like others, the clutch drags in gear, but only when she's cold. I suspect it's just oil and a cable adjustment, but I'm going to do the shift drum bolt and replace the thrust washers most likely too. Or at least order new ones just in case. However, I don't know where the shift drum bolt is at, and the Suzuki parts diagrams don't list it as so. Does anyone have the part number for the bolt and thrust washers? Or at least describe where exactly they're at so I can order the right thing? Figure they can't be too expensive, so I might as well grab some just in case. She's my DD, so I don't want to find out they're fucked and then have to wait for parts to arrive and ride my pretty bike in the rain until they do.

Any help?
MiteyF is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-26-2010, 11:29 AM   #6129
Bob Onit
Rocket Surgeon
 
Bob Onit's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2008
Location: Population 174
Oddometer: 1,519
Quote:
Originally Posted by MiteyF
I don't know where the shift drum bolt is
Bob Onit is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-26-2010, 12:16 PM   #6130
MrPulldown
Beastly Adventurer
 
MrPulldown's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2009
Location: Truckee
Oddometer: 2,596
benifits of a CV carb

Is there a reason why the S and SE modles of our bikes were speced with a CV carb.
__________________
94 DR 350 SE
No Load LED Flash Relay and Diode Kits for Sale
MrPulldown is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-26-2010, 12:21 PM   #6131
Klay
dreaming adventurer
 
Klay's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2005
Location: right here on my thermarest
Oddometer: 98,619
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPulldown
Is there a reason why the S and SE modles of our bikes were speced with a CV carb.
Emissions, right?

I have the 435 big-bore kit in mine, but the CV carb is working perfectly. The airbox is opened up and the carb rejetted.
Klay is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-26-2010, 12:24 PM   #6132
original mcguiver
Adventurer
 
original mcguiver's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2005
Location: mile high city, colorado
Oddometer: 28
Laugh

More E.P.A. compliant -better fuel mileage and jetting is not as sensitive of elevation changes...
original mcguiver is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-26-2010, 12:30 PM   #6133
Bob Onit
Rocket Surgeon
 
Bob Onit's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2008
Location: Population 174
Oddometer: 1,519
Quote:
Originally Posted by original mcguiver
More E.P.A. compliant -better fuel mileage and jetting is not as sensitive of elevation changes...
Mcguiver, do you have any data to support the EPA claim?
I've often wondered why Suzuki used the BST rather than the TM.

Thanks.
Bob Onit is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-26-2010, 12:41 PM   #6134
original mcguiver
Adventurer
 
original mcguiver's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2005
Location: mile high city, colorado
Oddometer: 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Onit
Mcguiver, do you have any data to support the EPA claim?
I've often wondered why Suzuki used the BST rather than the TM.

Thanks.
Bob, I don't have anything I can put my hands on right now but the street compliant bikes all used the CV carbs and the diret bikes used the pumpers
original mcguiver is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-26-2010, 01:13 PM   #6135
Bob Onit
Rocket Surgeon
 
Bob Onit's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2008
Location: Population 174
Oddometer: 1,519
Quote:
Originally Posted by original mcguiver
the street compliant bikes all used the CV carbs and the diret bikes used the pumpers
I'm well aware of this. I'm just curious why Suzuki would put such a lousy carb on a decent bike.

I guess it would have to be EPA related since the BST costs more than the TM.
thanks.
Bob Onit is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 05:54 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014