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Old 01-11-2011, 09:20 AM   #6706
FlyingWman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PhiSig1071 View Post
I'm thinking the mileage is a bit high for what they're asking.
I would have to agree
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Old 01-11-2011, 09:35 AM   #6707
alskee750
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DR350 lighting kit..

Looking into buying a 93 dr350 that only has headlight and tail light but no blinkers. To make it legal for street riding I need to put blinkers on. I'm trying to find a step by step guide if one exist on how to set up a blinkers, etc. Does it need a battery, etc..

I'm not scared getting my hands dirty but when it comes to electrical, I just get doh!..

Thanks..

Alex
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Old 01-11-2011, 09:50 AM   #6708
yondering
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Originally Posted by EastBoundAndDown View Post
For me above 6000rpm is too buzzy.
As a side note to the gearing discussion - On these bikes, especially with the stock motor and S model carb, they feel "buzzy" at higher rpm when they are jetted too lean on the top end. It's even more noticeable if you have the stock steel tank, and it's partly empty; the tank amplifies the buzz. Go up a size on the main jet, it may smooth out the 6,000+ rpm highway cruising.

As we all know, the stock carb settings are too lean anyway, this contributes to the buzzing.
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Old 01-11-2011, 10:31 AM   #6709
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Originally Posted by texasadv View Post
Thanks for the insight Dilliw!

I know that the later models had better suspension and e-start but besides that, is there any downside to buying an earlier model versus newer one?

Re: the suspension- I've only got about 600mi on the bike but IMO the only thing my early street model needs is correct (for your weight) springing front and rear. Yeh some adjustability would be nice but if I could just get some of my preload back with stiffer springs, especially in the rear, I'd be o.k. with just the stock parts. But I don't have the expectation that this is going to be some kind of competition bike; I bought it as a weekend woods toy.

Re: the e-start- that's a luxury item that I can do without. Put a good spark plug in it, sort out your carb (mine was spewing gas due to the worn out needle), use the proper kicking routine, and shut your petcock/run out the bowl after every ride. Compared to my brother's Husky the DR is a piece of cake!
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Old 01-11-2011, 12:33 PM   #6710
shearboy2004
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Originally Posted by PhiSig1071 View Post
Can I get an educated opinion on what these bikes are actually worth:

http://miami.craigslist.org/mdc/mcy/2133906792.html

16k miles, looks pretty clean too.

http://miami.craigslist.org/brw/mcy/2151307249.html

19k miles, slightly rougher condition, but not bad for a 12 year old bike.

KBB says $775, yeah, that'll never happen. NADA says $1800, which seems more reasonable. I'm thinking the mileage is a bit high for what they're asking.
I think a fella could make good money in buying up every tidy 98/99 model he could and waiting a few years , I think these old gals are going to go up in value because there isn't a manufacture out going to give us anything but super high maintenance crap from here on out , gone are the days of folks wanting reliability , It seems to me guys buying new bikes are looking for how light it is and how fast it is and not caring about how quickly they drop their ass on the trail and how extensive the maintenance.

This is currently being proven on the Dakar were the one of the top KTM riders is on his 3rd engine and his rival is on his 2nd and they are only halfway through with 3 engines allowed for the entire race.
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Old 01-11-2011, 12:46 PM   #6711
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Maybe.
I don't see much in the same class being offered.
The wr250 might come close if you don't mind fuel pumps and water cooling, but that is it?

I looked for a dr350, none around at all, I ended up with a dr650, great bike but heavy and I got all busted up on it, maybe because of the weight.
The power is fun, but less weight would have been fun also.

I would get two, one to ride, one for parts.




Quote:
Originally Posted by shearboy2004 View Post
I think a fella could make good money in buying up every tidy 98/99 model he could and waiting a few years , I think these old gals are going to go up in value because there isn't a manufacture out going to give us anything but super high maintenance crap from here on out , gone are the days of folks wanting reliability , It seems to me guys buying new bikes are looking for how light it is and how fast it is and not caring about how quickly they drop their ass on the trail and how extensive the maintenance.

This is currently being proven on the Dakar were the one of the top KTM riders is on his 3rd engine and his rival is on his 2nd and they are only halfway through with 3 engines allowed for the entire race.
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Old 01-11-2011, 01:00 PM   #6712
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Yeah but the WR250 is a buzzy, toque less little bugger compared to a DR350.
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Old 01-11-2011, 01:03 PM   #6713
PhiSig1071
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shearboy2004 View Post
I think a fella could make good money in buying up every tidy 98/99 model he could and waiting a few years , I think these old gals are going to go up in value because there isn't a manufacture out going to give us anything but super high maintenance crap from here on out , gone are the days of folks wanting reliability , It seems to me guys buying new bikes are looking for how light it is and how fast it is and not caring about how quickly they drop their ass on the trail and how extensive the maintenance.

This is currently being proven on the Dakar were the one of the top KTM riders is on his 3rd engine and his rival is on his 2nd and they are only halfway through with 3 engines allowed for the entire race.
I am looking for one to build into the bike Suzuki should have built instead of the DRZ. I see you own two of them.

I have a KTM 625SMC, depending on how the DR turns out I might lace up a second set of rims for supermoto and sell my KTM.
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Old 01-11-2011, 01:04 PM   #6714
shearboy2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dilliw View Post
Re: the suspension- I've only got about 600mi on the bike but IMO the only thing my early street model needs is correct (for your weight) springing front and rear. Yeh some adjustability would be nice but if I could just get some of my preload back with stiffer springs, especially in the rear, I'd be o.k. with just the stock parts. But I don't have the expectation that this is going to be some kind of competition bike; I bought it as a weekend woods toy.

Re: the e-start- that's a luxury item that I can do without. Put a good spark plug in it, sort out your carb (mine was spewing gas due to the worn out needle), use the proper kicking routine, and shut your petcock/run out the bowl after every ride. Compared to my brother's Husky the DR is a piece of cake!
YZ Front end and the heaviest rear spring from Jesse !Changed my DR completely.
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Old 01-11-2011, 01:09 PM   #6715
shearboy2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PhiSig1071 View Post
I am looking for one to build into the bike Suzuki should have built instead of the DRZ. I see you own two of them.

I have a KTM 625SMC, depending on how the DR turns out I might lace up a second set of rims for supermoto and sell my KTM.

I agree 100 percent , the DR350 I am sure could be bored out to 500 if you wanted along with YZ or RM front end and you are good to go , I think I checked my valves last year sometime and may check them again next year sometime , not many KTM owners can say that.

I feel like you in that Suzuki should have stayed with air cooled and bored it out , hell the bottom end on these little buggers is so strong !!
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Old 01-11-2011, 01:13 PM   #6716
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The 98/99 has a fairly good front end from what I've been told. And racetech makes some parts for it (I think). I'm going to have the forks and shock resprung for a heavier guy (I weigh 225) and ride the piss out of it until I get my tax return and can put the big bore/pumper on it. Once I get there I'll see about finding an RM250 with a blown motor.
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Old 01-11-2011, 01:45 PM   #6717
Akiva1080
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Rear brake caliper

Hi everyone, just a quick question...
Because of a dumb f-up on my part I stripped one of the brake pad pins rendering my rear caliper of my 99 s model useless.

Bought an entire rear assy from a 96 and swapped only the caliper and mounting bracket. After bleeding the whole system the brakes do their job when I spin the wheel by hand, but the caliper seems loose if not pushing the pedal. Is this normal? I can't recall it being that wobbly.

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Old 01-11-2011, 02:25 PM   #6718
yondering
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Quote:
Originally Posted by texasadv View Post
Thanks for the insight Dilliw!

I know that the later models had better suspension and e-start but besides that, is there any downside to buying an earlier model versus newer one?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dilliw View Post
Re: the suspension- I've only got about 600mi on the bike but IMO the only thing my early street model needs is correct (for your weight) springing front and rear. Yeh some adjustability would be nice but if I could just get some of my preload back with stiffer springs, especially in the rear, I'd be o.k. with just the stock parts. But I don't have the expectation that this is going to be some kind of competition bike; I bought it as a weekend woods toy.

Re: the e-start- that's a luxury item that I can do without. Put a good spark plug in it, sort out your carb (mine was spewing gas due to the worn out needle), use the proper kicking routine, and shut your petcock/run out the bowl after every ride. Compared to my brother's Husky the DR is a piece of cake!
I agree. The forks on the earlier models can be updated to the later (98-99) forks, or, for less work (and less gain) you can update to the 94+ dirt model forks, which are an early cartridge design. I went this route, they bolt right in to the '91 triple clamps. It's not a huge difference, but does help, and they are cheap. If you want stiffer springs, you can trim coils off your existing fork springs, and replace the cut off amount with a spacer, PVC pipe works.
The spring trimming isn't just guesswork; for a known factory spring stiffness, we can calculate how many coils to remove to get to the stiffness you need. Use the racetech website to determine your desired spring rate.

The rear shock on the S models can be updated to the dirt model shock, doesn't matter what year.

One big benefit of kick start only: you can change carb jets in about 5 minutes, without removing the carb or even loosening the clamps. Since the e-starter isn't in the way, you can drop the float bowl off the carb, change jets, and re-install. It's simple enough, you could do it on the trail if you wanted.

Also, with the motor/carb tuned right, kick start is easy and reliable. The only trouble I had was when stuck in a deep rut, with no room to kick it.

I don't think there are any other downsides to the earlier models.

One upside to the earlier models is they didn't have the crank pin issue like the later models did. (search waaayyy back in this thread)
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Old 01-11-2011, 05:14 PM   #6719
Dilliw
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yondering View Post
I agree. If you want stiffer springs, you can trim coils off your existing fork springs, and replace the cut off amount with a spacer, PVC pipe works.
The spring trimming isn't just guesswork; for a known factory spring stiffness, we can calculate how many coils to remove to get to the stiffness you need. Use the racetech website to determine your desired spring rate.
Racetech ecommended Fork Spring Rate for me is: 0.510 kg/mm

Factory is 0.380 kg/mm
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Old 01-11-2011, 05:15 PM   #6720
cwc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alskee750 View Post
Looking into buying a 93 dr350 that only has headlight and tail light but no blinkers. To make it legal for street riding I need to put blinkers on. I'm trying to find a step by step guide if one exist on how to set up a blinkers, etc. Does it need a battery, etc..

I'm not scared getting my hands dirty but when it comes to electrical, I just get doh!..

Thanks..

Alex
Here is a basic wiring diagram.

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/turn-signal1.htm

If you find a couple of turn signals and a turn signal flasher you can wire it up on the bench to get a feel for how it works and then mount the parts on your bike. You may not be happy with the performance if you don't have a battery.

If you are not into this sort of thing or don't have much time it might be easier and faster to get a bike that already has signals.
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