DR350 Thread

[Speedo66]

Originally Posted by PhiSig1071

Where is the other bike located? I know it's a long shot, but if it's somewhere far enough south I may take a look at it.

PM sent

[Greg Bender]

Originally Posted by EastBoundAndDown

So is a 4.60-18 rear tire wide enough for the DR? Stock calls for a 110/90 which is calcualted to be the 4.60, so thats what I bought for my new tire, but the irc gp110 i pulled off was a 5.10-18.... does it really matter either way?

Hi EastBoundAndDown,

Of course, you can fit what you like. However, 110mm is not equal to 4.6 inches. Instead, 110mm is equal to ~4.33 inches. Last tire I put on was a 4.5 x 18. Works fine for me. I've also fit the stock size and I've been happy. Other guys like to go wider, though I've yet to try it.

Hope this helps!

Regards,

Gregory Bender

[frdbronco8]

Originally Posted by yondering

This may have been the problem, or part of it anyway. If you look in the plug boot where the wire went, you'll see a pointed screw. The wire threads onto this; if it was loose it could cause intermittent spark and bad idle. If it's nasty, you'll want to trim the wire back a bit and re-install by twisting the boot onto the wire. (note how the core sticks out and is bent around the outer sheath) I hope that fixes it; it must have vibrated loose.

The resistor is accessed from the spark plug end of the boot, not the wire end. Look for the flat head slotted screw down in the boot.

Looks like that was it, changed back to the 40 pilot and rode around the neighborhood and seems to be idling just fine. Thanks all for the help! The cap didnt seem to want to screw into the wire very well, almost as if the screw head was too big to get a good bite. I might look into the one Greg mentioned...

Now to get the girlfriends DR200 running right and we will be all set!

[yondering]

Originally Posted by frdbronco8

Looks like that was it, changed back to the 40 pilot and rode around the neighborhood and seems to be idling just fine. Thanks all for the help! The cap didnt seem to want to screw into the wire very well, almost as if the screw head was too big to get a good bite. I might look into the one Greg mentioned...

Now to get the girlfriends DR200 running right and we will be all set!

Awesome! I feel much better about selling it to you now, felt kinda bad there for a bit even though it never gave me the problems you described. I hope you get at least as many miles of enjoyment from it as I did!

BTW, the wire should be a tight fit in the cap; you could try it with some sort of silicone or water based grease as lube on the outside of the wire (avoid the conductor itself).

[slartidbartfast]

Originally Posted by yondering

... you could try it with some sort of silicone or water based grease as lube on the outside of the wire (avoid the conductor itself).

I have had good results using dielectric grease where the boots seal to the plug lead and cap, and where the plug cap seals to the plug. Useful just about anywhere you want to keep connectors free from corrosion and easy to pull apart.

[frdbronco8]

Originally Posted by yondering

Awesome! I feel much better about selling it to you now, felt kinda bad there for a bit even though it never gave me the problems you described. I hope you get at least as many miles of enjoyment from it as I did!

BTW, the wire should be a tight fit in the cap; you could try it with some sort of silicone or water based grease as lube on the outside of the wire (avoid the conductor itself).

From what ive been able to tell about it so far it feels exactly like what I was hoping for . The wire fits snug in the boot but the piece you screw onto the end of the wire doesnt feel like its screwing in very far or tight. Feels like if I gave it a tug it would still come off. Not sure if thats normal or not. Might at least put some elect tape around it to make sure it doesnt vibrate out...

[cwc]

Originally Posted by brianjonesphoto

Can you elaborate on this? What makes it better?

In addition to the comments already made, the fit of the Acerbis is better.

Both the Clark and the IMS had an interference with the throttle cables where they go into the carb. The Clark I returned when they indicated to me in a phone call that it shouldn't be a problem if the metal part of the cable interfered with the tank.

IMO the mounting is a little nicer on the Acerbis. It's more work to install, but when you remove the tank for service it is much easier to replace it. The IMS uses rubber bumpers like the stock tank to locate and those can easily be displaced and roll under your bench. The Acerbis system is more secure.

The comments on the IMS apply to the DR350, DR650 and KLR tanks that I have worked on.

And finally, my 97 350 came with the IMS tank already installed and the heat shield over the frame was gone. I haven't tried to replace it because I don't have one, but it doesn't look to me like the heat shield will fit with the IMS tank.

[Greg Bender]

Originally Posted by cwc

In addition to the comments already made, the fit of the Acerbis is better.

Both the Clark and the IMS had an interference with the throttle cables where they go into the carb. The Clark I returned when they indicated to me in a phone call that it shouldn't be a problem if the metal part of the cable interfered with the tank.

IMO the mounting is a little nicer on the Acerbis. It's more work to install, but when you remove the tank for service it is much easier to replace it. The IMS uses rubber bumpers like the stock tank to locate and those can easily be displaced and roll under your bench. The Acerbis system is more secure.

The comments on the IMS apply to the DR350, DR650 and KLR tanks that I have worked on.

And finally, my 97 350 came with the IMS tank already installed and the heat shield over the frame was gone. I haven't tried to replace it because I don't have one, but it doesn't look to me like the heat shield will fit with the IMS tank.

Hi CWC,

I've only had the stock plastic tank and the Clarke I replaced it with. The Clarke tank gets the job done, but as you say, it leaves some things to be desired. Mine arrived with standard threaded bungs for the brackets instead of metric. While it isn't correct, it isn't that big of a deal. But then right side was (is) permanently slightly concave (as opposed to the left side that remains nicely convex). It bugged me and I contacted Clarke. They suggested I fill the tank full of gas, shut the petcock and block the vent, then set it in the sun. Sure enough, the fuel expanded and pushed the tank back into shape. But it doesn't stay that way, no matter how long I leave it there. It still bugs me, but I suppose not enough to pay to ship it back for a replacement (if they even would replace it). Then there is the interference with the decompression assembly, which I had to fix before it rubbed a hole in the tank (http://thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/d...tb_clarke_tank). Oh, and the capacity of my tank is not 4.2 gallons. Bone dry I can fit 3.9 gallons into it (and that is clear to the very tip top).

All in all, I feel like I purchased a factory second that isn't designed as well as it should have been. If I had to do it over again, I would have bought the Acerbis (though it shows it only fits the "S" models, which mine is not - not sure what would be required to fit it to a dirt model).

Regards,

Gregory Bender

[slartidbartfast]

Originally Posted by Greg Bender

Hi CWC,

I've only had the stock plastic tank and the Clarke I replaced it with. The Clarke tank gets the job done, but as you say, it leaves some things to be desired. Mine arrived with standard threaded bungs for the brackets instead of metric. While it isn't correct, it isn't that big of a deal. But then right side was (is) permanently slightly concave (as opposed to the left side that remains nicely convex). It bugged me and I contacted Clarke. They suggested I fill the tank full of gas, shut the petcock and block the vent, then set it in the sun. Sure enough, the fuel expanded and pushed the tank back into shape. But it doesn't stay that way, no matter how long I leave it there. It still bugs me, but I suppose not enough to pay to ship it back for a replacement (if they even would replace it). Then there is the interference with the decompression assembly, which I had to fix before it rubbed a hole in the tank (http://thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/d...tb_clarke_tank). Oh, and the capacity of my tank is not 4.2 gallons. Bone dry I can fit 3.9 gallons into it (and that is clear to the very tip top).

All in all, I feel like I purchased a factory second that isn't designed as well as it should have been. If I had to do it over again, I would have bought the Acerbis (though it shows it only fits the "S" models, which mine is not - not sure what would be required to fit it to a dirt model).

Regards,

Gregory Bender

You missed the biggest problem with the Stupid Clarke tank design, which is that at least 1/2 gallon is totally unusable because the fuel valve is not fitted anywhere near the lowest point.

[BikePilot]

The acerbis fits all models just fine I'm pretty sure - it doesn't use the stock mounting points, but has its own rubber mounts that attach to the cylinder head stay bolts.

Only thing I don't like about the acerbis mounting is the rear bracket isn't isolated by rubber as well as it could be which can give a slight buzz in the tank. I cut up an old handgrip to make a ruber isloater and that worked a treat - no more tank buzz at freeway speed.

[Greg Bender]

Originally Posted by slartidbartfast

You missed the biggest problem with the Stupid Clarke tank design, which is that at least 1/2 gallon is totally unusable because the fuel valve is not fitted anywhere near the lowest point.

Hi slartidbartfast,

I always thought that, too. But I've run it down to next to nothing left in there. Yes, I needed to tip the bike over to get the fuel to the left side. But, there was precious little fuel left in that lower saddle point (less than a cup, for sure). Perhaps it has more to do with my weight and suspension settings than anything else, I dunno? I was just really amazed that I could get nearly everything out of it. Oh, and I have the "natural" color one that is translucent. So I can visually see what fuel I have left. That is the one thing I do really like about my Clarke tank.

Regards,

Gregory Bender

[PK]

Originally Posted by JHGR

Fellow DR250 / DR350 riders,

Once lstuckey1 posted a pic of his nice DR350 fitted with the Pro Moto Billet cargo rack, I knew it was the one I wanted. I even PM’d him about it.

So, I e-mailed Pro Moto asking if they would fabricate some more considering other people besides me showed interest. Luckily, customer sales representative Will Huffman answered that they still had 7 units left, and that once they were sold out no more would be fabricated. The best part is that he mentioned a special sale price to clear the inventory.

Standard price is $159.95, but for these last 6 units price is $94.95. If interested in this great deal, call Mr. Huffman ASAP and mention the discount code 'FORUMSDR250350' to purchase yours. Contact info:

Will Huffman
Customer Service/Sales
Pro Moto Billet & Fastway Performance
(866) 466-4762 ex. 231

As you may know, these racks fit equally all Suzuki DR250 / DR350 models and years.





Info taken from the Pro Moto Billet site:

"Like other Pro Moto Billet products, "Rack-It" cargo racks are a work of art. Not only are they functional, they look good too.

Each rack is CNC machined from a 1/2 inch thick plate of 6061 billet aluminum. The rack is then “hard clear” anodized for durability, ease of maintenance, and protection from the elements. We use only stainless steel fasteners to provide carefree maintenance. Most racks require no major modifications to mount. Installation instructions included.

Rack measures 10" W x 10" L. "


Any other info, go to: www.promotobillet.com


I will also post this in the TT forum, so hurry up!


Finally, I am in no way related to ProMoto Billet, as I don't even live in the US.....

FYI - I just ordered the last one. Sorry!

[_CJ]

Getting ready to go through the new (to me) 1990 DR350S and get it ready for the coming season. What kind of jetting do you guys find works best for high elevation? I live at 6000 feet. Most use will be 7000-9500 with limited excursions to 11000+.

[killermilchschnitte]

Just purchased a 1995 DR350S (kickstart only) for some offroad fun (or at least the pretense of whatever offroad fun is left in in overpopulated western Europe and in particular southern Germany) but more importantly this year's EnduRomania Rallye:



However, looking at the prices in this thread I must say that they're friggin expensive in Europe. This one has 25000kms on the clock, a brand-new Marving exhaust and manifold, new Bridgestone TW42/TW41 tires, new chain & sprockets, new brake pads and is in mint condition. Previous owner was a 76 year old man who's been taking it across a field to go fishing on the other side of his village for the last eight years. Asking price was 1700€, I got it for 1500€ plus another 150€ to get it from Hamburg to Munich.

I'll be picking it up next week sunday (Feb 6), then start preparint it for the Enduromania rallye in May. It needs new tires (knobbies), handguards, bashplate, engine guards, luggage rack to keep my soft luggage off the exhaust and probably also a new seat.

[jon_l]

1,500 euro doesn't sound outrageously expensive. I see reports of people paying $2,000 for clean DRs regularly. In Canada, like Europe, prices are generally higher than in the US.

I paid $2,100 for a reasonably clean '99 SE last Fall, and still it needs a few things sorted before I license it. Sprockets & chain, new brake pads & fluid, valves checked, etc.

What sucks is that the DR350 as a dual-sport seems to fill such a sweet spot with respect to its on and off road ability, small displacement but with decent torque, reliable, and not too heavy. All these positives, yet the DRs haven't been sold in North America since 1999, and there is no direct replacement.

A modern dual-sport with displacement between 250 and the big bikes would be perfect. I want a WR350R, or a wide-ratio, 6-speed tranny in a DRZ400S