DR350 Thread

[jungleplant]

and the infamous RiverRatRider13 , thanks mr. Rider for the great pics, and your input, mike

[jungleplant]

also the MiteyF input as well everybody should know that the input you all had wil be enjoyed by riders all over the world you had a lot to do with it, thanks again, keep in touch all you guys ok, mike

[slartidbartfast]

Originally Posted by eeore39648

Very helpful.
I have one with electric start, do you have a legible diagram with electric start, in the circuit?

Afraid not - Sorry! I found the diagram I started with from a Google search.

[FlyingWman]

Modded the airbox and followed jcalis's write up on the muffler mod today, hopefully I have time to put it all back together tomorrow. The main jet and adjustment frenzy will have to wait till my next break from school though . Atleast it's not ridin weather yet.

[Aussiead]

My dr died yesterday thou things could be worse..
Piston smashd to bits..i thought the bottom end was locked up and was going to have to atempt to split the case but luckly it was just little bits of piston jamed in the crank..so i was able to turn the crank,get the piston out and get thimgs moving again.
She will live once more... I hope

ill post pics later

[eeore39648]

What are the steps to removing the DR starter?
Looks to me, that the header has to be removed, and the crankcase breather hose, just to start.
Thanks in advance.

[PHILinFRANCE]

Just got back from a 75km yomp through the woods round here and half way round had a argument with a ditch and a tree soz no pics .....and no damage to me or DR !!!!did snap a 3in tree in half with my back though Any how after dragging the DR out of the ditch i spent 20 mins kicking her over no good sit down and have a smoke to get my breath back 5 mins later !!!! lets give it another go when i noticed the BLOODY KILL SWITCH popped it out and yes you guessed 1st kick Has anyone done away with the switch??? do i need it???and would it be easy to do ????

Cheers Phil

[robocog]

Bought a DR250S
Found out after buying (via the group I went greenlaning with) that my engine had seized last they went out as a group
apparently an object (log?) went into the gap on the sump guard and knocked off an oil line
First the previous owner knew was when the rear wheel locked up and the engine wouldn't crank

they managed to repair the oil line and re-fill with oil and get the bike running again - albeit with some bad noises coming from the engine and the owner decided to sell it on...which is where I come in

I don't know why I didn't notice any odd noises at the time of buying, but I didn't
Despite being a bit miffed I wasn't told at the time of sale that the engine had seized the week before I guess I would still have bought the bike regardless (it was local and just within budget at a stretch)

Just uploaded to youtube a vid of the bad noises
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hG8BEs5PFkU

I did the valve clearances when I first bought it and they had opened up rather than closed in suggesting I'm going to find material missing from cam journals, cam lobes and follower pads

I managed to get hold of another engine (top end is in bits) but looks fresh enough to re-use apart from the exhaust follower, which has migrated some material to the cam lobe

Do I just build the second engine up and bolt it in ?
or start to investigate the noises on the original one - using the parts I have on the second engine as a donor- picking the best of the bunch as I go along?

I'm curious to know what the noises are....place your bets now....

Will video or photo my findings as I go along

Regards
Rob

[slartidbartfast]

Originally Posted by PHILinFRANCE

Just got back from a 75km yomp through the woods round here and half way round had a argument with a ditch and a tree soz no pics .....and no damage to me or DR !!!!did snap a 3in tree in half with my back though Any how after dragging the DR out of the ditch i spent 20 mins kicking her over no good sit down and have a smoke to get my breath back 5 mins later !!!! lets give it another go when i noticed the BLOODY KILL SWITCH popped it out and yes you guessed 1st kick Has anyone done away with the switch??? do i need it???and would it be easy to do ????

Cheers Phil

Replace it with one you need to hold down - or just remember to check it

[slartidbartfast]

Originally Posted by robocog

Bought a DR250S
Found out after buying (via the group I went greenlaning with) that my engine had seized last they went out as a group
apparently an object (log?) went into the gap on the sump guard and knocked off an oil line
First the previous owner knew was when the rear wheel locked up and the engine wouldn't crank

they managed to repair the oil line and re-fill with oil and get the bike running again - albeit with some bad noises coming from the engine and the owner decided to sell it on...which is where I come in

I don't know why I didn't notice any odd noises at the time of buying, but I didn't
Despite being a bit miffed I wasn't told at the time of sale that the engine had seized the week before I guess I would still have bought the bike regardless (it was local and just within budget at a stretch)

Just uploaded to youtube a vid of the bad noises
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hG8BEs5PFkU

I did the valve clearances when I first bought it and they had opened up rather than closed in suggesting I'm going to find material missing from cam journals, cam lobes and follower pads

I managed to get hold of another engine (top end is in bits) but looks fresh enough to re-use apart from the exhaust follower, which has migrated some material to the cam lobe

Do I just build the second engine up and bolt it in ?
or start to investigate the noises on the original one - using the parts I have on the second engine as a donor- picking the best of the bunch as I go along?

I'm curious to know what the noises are....place your bets now....

Will video or photo my findings as I go along

Regards
Rob

I think you should go back to the guy who sold you the bike and demand your money back - then start looking elsewhere. Even if you want to keep the bike, you should expect a decent amount refunded. Don't let the bastard get away with it.

[juda5]

Originally Posted by robocog

Bought a DR250S
Found out after buying (via the group I went greenlaning with) that my engine had seized last they went out as a group
apparently an object (log?) went into the gap on the sump guard and knocked off an oil line
First the previous owner knew was when the rear wheel locked up and the engine wouldn't crank

they managed to repair the oil line and re-fill with oil and get the bike running again - albeit with some bad noises coming from the engine and the owner decided to sell it on...which is where I come in

I don't know why I didn't notice any odd noises at the time of buying, but I didn't
Despite being a bit miffed I wasn't told at the time of sale that the engine had seized the week before I guess I would still have bought the bike regardless (it was local and just within budget at a stretch)

Just uploaded to youtube a vid of the bad noises
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hG8BEs5PFkU

I did the valve clearances when I first bought it and they had opened up rather than closed in suggesting I'm going to find material missing from cam journals, cam lobes and follower pads

I managed to get hold of another engine (top end is in bits) but looks fresh enough to re-use apart from the exhaust follower, which has migrated some material to the cam lobe

Do I just build the second engine up and bolt it in ?
or start to investigate the noises on the original one - using the parts I have on the second engine as a donor- picking the best of the bunch as I go along?

I'm curious to know what the noises are....place your bets now....

Will video or photo my findings as I go along

Regards
Rob

From the sounds on the video I would guess you are going to find some damage to the valve train -- cam followers most likely, and probably quite a bit of piston clearance.

If you don't mind being off the road for a while, I would tear into the motor that is currently running and use parts from the donor as needed.

If it was mine, though, I would be awfully tempted to build the second engine up a bit -- bore it out, clean up the valves, clean up the ports a bit, etc.

[PHILinFRANCE]

Replace it with one you need to hold down - or just remember to check it

Cheers Slarti..... to much red wine in my blood to remember anything nowerdays but i like the idea of a hold down one, never seen one before !!!! can you get them in the States?????
Phil

[robocog]

Originally Posted by slartidbartfast

I think you should go back to the guy who sold you the bike and demand your money back - then start looking elsewhere. Even if you want to keep the bike, you should expect a decent amount refunded. Don't let the bastard get away with it.

Lifes too short
I paid £600 for the bike and it was sold as seen I guess (ebay states this?)
I should have looked and listened harder at the time of sale and asked more direct questions, but was blinded and deafened by the prosepect of getting my first road legal dirt bike

It's not the way I would have sold the bike (esp as he knew I'd eventually bump into somone who knew the bikes history!) but we all operate differently

At the end of the day all in it hasn't cost me mega money (paid £100 for the donor engine)
DR's in good working condition (when they turn up) are seemingly being sold at more than the bike stands me so far - so I'm just going to roll my sleeves up and make the best I can with what I have and enjoy it

Will post any gory internal shots once I get stripping

Hopefully the outcome will be one happy working bike and a spare engine I can recondition (using more commonly available 350 internals perhaps?)

Regards
Rob

[slartidbartfast]

Originally Posted by PHILinFRANCE

Replace it with one you need to hold down - or just remember to check it

Cheers Slarti..... to much red wine in my blood to remember anything nowerdays but i like the idea of a hold down one, never seen one before !!!! can you get them in the States?????
Phil

I bought one of these for my daughter's DT100 and was surprised to find you needed to hold it down. It seems to be the standard design for a lot of modern dirt bikes. There were dozens of these on eBay in the US for under $10 including shipping. I'm sure some will be available at ebay.co.fr

[robocog]

So its just a momentary switch?
eg push and hold to kill engine / push it and release for exhaust shotgun?

Done the kick till I cannot kick anymore before noticing mine had been accidentally pushed in/knocked - so am interested to hear if theres an idiot proof switch out there :-)
(not that I'm accusing you Phil)

Have seen the rocker style switches that are easier to tell at a glance they have been activated but got bigger issues to sort out first

Regards
Rob