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Old 04-07-2011, 07:34 AM   #8026
clab04
The Sprout
 
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Joined: Aug 2010
Location: Deep Gap, NC
Oddometer: 121
Sholder tw step

Well my baby put me on the shoulder for the first time this morning on the way to work. It would crank but I had no throttle. Luckally a co-worker with his truck drove by and gave us a lift. The problem was those two dinky screws that attatch the carb slide to the linkage. They had backed out. I recently worked on the carb and thought I had them torqued well enough but I guess they needed some thred lock. A little dab should keep me going this time.
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clab04 screwed with this post 04-07-2011 at 09:32 AM
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Old 04-07-2011, 10:38 AM   #8027
culliganman
92 dr 350s
 
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Joined: Mar 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cman View Post
I'm on the fence as to order a new pumper carb for my 98 350se. Doing a suspension upgrade, race tech front and rear, also new chains, sprockets, plastic, handle bars, painting the frame. Yes, the bike is down to the bare frame. FMF rear can will be ordered along with a larger header. Just can't decide on the new pumper carb or not. Looking forward to your re-action to the carb. Cman.
I have a 92 with the stock street carb I dont see the need for the pumper. My friend has a 91 and just added the pumper while it did help his bikes starting I dont notice that much of a differance off road. With my CV I can still wheelie in 2nd gear (without dropping the clutch) and im 250 lbs. Many inmates swear by the pumper and I dont doubt they like them it just seems like a luxery item thats not really needed provided the CV is working properly.
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Old 04-07-2011, 12:21 PM   #8028
dtp
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Location: Turlock, California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by culliganman View Post
I have a 92 with the stock street carb I dont see the need for the pumper. My friend has a 91 and just added the pumper while it did help his bikes starting I dont notice that much of a differance off road. With my CV I can still wheelie in 2nd gear (without dropping the clutch) and im 250 lbs. Many inmates swear by the pumper and I dont doubt they like them it just seems like a luxery item thats not really needed provided the CV is working properly.
Mine has only ever had the pumper so I can't tell you from personal experience, but from what I understand, the CV can get spotty on the fuel supply and even turn off the engine in very bumpy/whoopy sections. The slight increase in response of the slide carb is just a side benefit.
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Old 04-07-2011, 01:59 PM   #8029
Drif10
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Joined: Jun 2003
Location: Gates of Moscow
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ribsauce View Post
I need to install license plate lights, I think I am going to get these
http://www.scooteringusa.com/2010/11...d-light-bolts/
except the ones they sell at the Suzuki dealership.

I found the license plate light cables but they have a plastic adapter (square shaped) on the end. I cannot figure out what I need to get to plug these into the cable. What is the name of this adapter?
Like this?

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/El.../mitsu_uc.html

Check out their site for other choices too.
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Old 04-07-2011, 06:53 PM   #8030
cman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtp View Post
Mine has only ever had the pumper so I can't tell you from personal experience, but from what I understand, the CV can get spotty on the fuel supply and even turn off the engine in very bumpy/whoopy sections. The slight increase in response of the slide carb is just a side benefit.
My 98 ran great last summer. So much so I rode it more than my DRZ 400s. I was hoping for a good seat in the pants improvement on an already mighty fine bike.
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Old 04-07-2011, 07:28 PM   #8031
slartidbartfast
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Location: Southern Louisiana or Southern England or ...
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I made the switch from CV to pumper on the strength of many, many comments about how it really wakes the bike up, etc. There is no doubt that the response is a bit more immediate when snapping the throttle open, especially from low revs. However, I don't really notice much overall improvement in performance. The extra top end rpm and power I was expecting with my 435cc, vortex airbox, oversize header motor isn't there (or unmeasurably so.) Mileage seems about the same.

Would I go back? Probably not, unless I was going to ride in the mountains, where I understand the CV carb is at least partially self-compensating for altitude.

Was it worth the nearly $300, plus hours and hassle associated with tweaking the jetting again? No, I don't think so! If I was starting over, I wouldn't bother - and it's STILL not quite as easy to start as I had achieved with fine tuning of the CV either.

The biggest value-for-money improvement I have made to my DR by far, is the Seat Concepts replacement seat foam and cover.
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Old 04-07-2011, 07:28 PM   #8032
AndrewStout
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Throttle cable. . .

So I just broke the throttle cable on my 97 se. Anyone know how long of cable I need? I'm in Belize and will most likely have to dig through other cables to find one that will work. I don't have a good place to pull off the tank and if someone here knows how long would sure help me out so I can just do it once and be done. I don't want to pull it off and then not find one and have to put it back together and start all over.

Also, I know it is the push pull type, but can I get by with just one cable on a stock carb? I've heard people doing that with a pumper, but not a stock. I may just try to use the one good one I have left and see if that gets me going until I can replace it. I'm in Belize and don't want to have to have one shipped down. Worst case I can send it to someone coming down, but that won't be till May.

Thanks for the help. . .

Andy
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Old 04-08-2011, 12:06 AM   #8033
PHILinFRANCE
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Hi Andy... can't help with the lenght of the cable but you can just use the PULL SIDE cable !!!! no need for the push one, neither mine and my mates have a push cable and run fine
Phil
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Old 04-08-2011, 05:59 AM   #8034
juda5
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Location: Rhode Island
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndrewStout View Post
So I just broke the throttle cable on my 97 se. Anyone know how long of cable I need? I'm in Belize and will most likely have to dig through other cables to find one that will work. I don't have a good place to pull off the tank and if someone here knows how long would sure help me out so I can just do it once and be done. I don't want to pull it off and then not find one and have to put it back together and start all over.

Also, I know it is the push pull type, but can I get by with just one cable on a stock carb? I've heard people doing that with a pumper, but not a stock. I may just try to use the one good one I have left and see if that gets me going until I can replace it. I'm in Belize and don't want to have to have one shipped down. Worst case I can send it to someone coming down, but that won't be till May.

Thanks for the help. . .

Andy
The pull cable from my 92 DR350S (which may be slightly different) measures as follows:

Housing (tip to tip) - 102cm
Cable - 111cm

This was with the adjuster completely compressed.

The push cable is the same length (111cm,) but the housing is about 25cm shorter.
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Old 04-08-2011, 06:23 AM   #8035
Ninja77
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Joined: Oct 2010
Location: Ladismith, Western Cape, South-Africa
Oddometer: 49
Hey Andy, I also use only the pull on my stock CV.

Question:
Having a little problem, My bike has a flat spot on the throttle, just off idle to about 1/5 or 1/4 throttle and then the power kicks in. Its independent of revs and gear, so it should not be timing, spark or mechanical. I have an idea that it might be feuling. So... I run a 145mj, 40pj and the clip is in the lowest (richest) posision on the needle. I have a temp gauge in the oil so I know 1/4 and up its spot on and idle is perfect. But from idle to 1/4 throttle the bike also have a tendency to overheat (110'C) on slower bits (single tracks). Here it comes.....
How do I make the feuling richer in that specific area?

PS. I ordered the racing needle and adjustable feul screw from Jesse, and bought a oil cooler to fit and remedy the over heating problem on slow rides.
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Old 04-08-2011, 06:25 AM   #8036
clab04
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Location: Deep Gap, NC
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[QUOTE=AndrewStout;15615512]So I just broke the throttle cable on my 97 se. Anyone know how long of cable I need? I'm in Belize and will most likely have to dig through other cables to find one that will work. I don't have a good place to pull off the tank and if someone here knows how long would sure help me out so I can just do it once and be done. I don't want to pull it off and then not find one and have to put it back together and start all over.

Also, I know it is the push pull type, but can I get by with just one cable on a stock carb? I've heard people doing that with a pumper, but not a stock. I may just try to use the one good one I have left and see if that gets me going until I can replace it. I'm in Belize and don't want to have to have one shipped down. Worst case I can send it to someone coming down, but that won't be till May.

It doesn't matter how long your cable is as long as it reaches. Theoreticaly you could have a 10 foot cable. The crittical part is how far the leads stick out of each end. If there is too much you won't be able to tighten it out eg. too little, you get the point.
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'92 DR 350 Dualsport

Hey hey hey! Don't you think he is dead enough?
Well he shouldn't have been playing on my side of the street!
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Old 04-08-2011, 08:15 AM   #8037
AndrewStout
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Great! Thanks. . .

Thanks for all the help guys, hopefully I can get to it this weekend!

Andy
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Old 04-08-2011, 09:51 AM   #8038
yondering
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Location: NW Wa. state
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Cush hubs

Do any of you guys know if a later model SE cush hub will work on an earlier S model bike, or vice versa? I'm trying to nail down specifics for a cush hub conversion on another bike, but the parts fiche is pretty confusing. It shows the SE rear hub as solid, not cush, but I don't think that's right, is it?
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Old 04-08-2011, 10:08 AM   #8039
matloik
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Location: PDX | Hood River
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yondering View Post
Do any of you guys know if a later model SE cush hub will work on an earlier S model bike, or vice versa? I'm trying to nail down specifics for a cush hub conversion on another bike, but the parts fiche is pretty confusing. It shows the SE rear hub as solid, not cush, but I don't think that's right, is it?
My '98 SE is solid.
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Old 04-08-2011, 10:10 AM   #8040
Wadester
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Location: 'Cruces
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ninja77 View Post
and bought a oil cooler to fit and remedy the over heating problem on slow rides.
What oil cooler did you get? Post pics if you got'em, please.
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