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Old 04-10-2011, 03:35 PM   #8101
jon_l
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Airvent View Post
The flat head screw is a cap for the hex. You got a hex bolt under that.

Remove cap, Loosen Hex bolt, then unbolt caliper to change pads. Good luck
Thanks but the flat screw isn't the issue. It's the upper one, the one with no head. The Clymer manual shows 2 Allen-heads, I have the one "flat", and one no-head. No head in a tapped hole? Unless the design changed (manual says 1990-1994), what should be a socket-head bolt is a stud with no way to remove that I can see except an except with an easy-out.
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Old 04-10-2011, 03:59 PM   #8102
Drif10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jon_l View Post
Thanks but the flat screw isn't the issue. It's the upper one, the one with no head. The Clymer manual shows 2 Allen-heads, I have the one "flat", and one no-head. No head in a tapped hole? Unless the design changed (manual says 1990-1994), what should be a socket-head bolt is a stud with no way to remove that I can see except an except with an easy-out.
Ignore that, it doesn't pertain to the caliper you posted a pic of. Regardless of what the manual says, do as Airvent wrote, and you'll be able to change your pads.
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Old 04-10-2011, 04:20 PM   #8103
rubberband
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ok, general jetting question. regardless of gear or speed if I am trying to cruise at a given speed say 40mph I get a surge/stumble when I just crack the throttle. any other amount of throttle the bike is fine. say 39mph on decell no issue, or 41mph if I am accellerating the tiniest bit. WFO=ok 1/2 throttle=ok 1/4 throttle=ok closed on decel=ok no popping sputtering nada....just when I barely crack it to maintain speed??? To be honest it works so well everywhere else I"m almost willing to overlook it....almost?

Bike info 1997SE CV carb, 140 main, 37.5 pilot,fuel screw 1-1/2 turns out, 3X4 hole in the airbox, Jesse needle cilp on 3rd groove, stock pipe modded by jesse, UNI airfilter, plug looks great like a toasted marshmallow.....mmmmm marshmallow

any input appreciated.
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Old 04-10-2011, 04:35 PM   #8104
kobukan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jon_l View Post
1999 DR350SE.

The manual photos show hex-socket head (Allen) bolts, So I have no idea why the lower bolt that does have a head isn't a hex-socket, but at least it looks like I can remove it.

Unless someone recognizes what I have, I will have to assume it is a cobbled-together, shit-show from a previous owner, and I'll have to order new bolts, and get busy with the easy-out.
I have a '99 DR350 dirt model and it looks exactly like the pics you posted. I don't think there's anything wrong with yours.
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Old 04-10-2011, 04:39 PM   #8105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jon_l View Post
1999 DR350SE.

View of back of same "bolt" shows no head on the other side either:


The manual photos show hex-socket head (Allen) bolts, So I have no idea why the lower bolt that does have a head isn't a hex-socket, but at least it looks like I can remove it.

Unless someone recognizes what I have, I will have to assume it is a cobbled-together, shit-show from a previous owner, and I'll have to order new bolts, and get busy with the easy-out.


Get the caliper off and have a close look at it -- maybe the single hex (under the flathead dust cover) will be all you need to pull the pads...?

edit - I just looked it up in my manual, and 1997 got a new front brake caliper -- there is only a lower bolt, no upper. The pads will be different as well, so if you have pads with 2 holes, they are the wrong ones.

Here's a clip from the manual:


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Old 04-10-2011, 04:44 PM   #8106
Lasherman
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OK, new brake pads of the rear, and new brake fluid. I bled the system until I got no bubbles out of the bleeder valve, tightned the bleeder valve, checked level in master, sealed it up, but have squishy brakes that wont come to full lock.....


WTF did I do wrong?
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Old 04-10-2011, 04:47 PM   #8107
jon_l
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Thanks Airvent, Drif10, Juda5, and Kobukan, et al.

I'll do as you suggest next time I have daylight (next weekend), and hopefully all is well.

Jon
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Old 04-10-2011, 04:47 PM   #8108
Airvent
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lasherman View Post
OK, new brake pads of the rear, and new brake fluid. I bled the system until I got no bubbles out of the bleeder valve, tightned the bleeder valve, checked level in master, sealed it up, but have squishy brakes that wont come to full lock.....


WTF did I do wrong?
You got air in there somewhere, bleeding brakes is a bitch to do by yourself! Unless you got one of them suckin machines
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Old 04-10-2011, 04:52 PM   #8109
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lower the new ride

I will keep my eyes out for a used set of links, $75 is steep since i just spent a months pay to pick up and register the beast.

Anyone know of any spectacular trail rides in the Colorado front range?
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Old 04-10-2011, 04:54 PM   #8110
Airvent
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jon_l View Post
Thanks Airvent, Drif10, Juda5, and Kobukan, et al.

I'll do as you suggest next time I have daylight (next weekend), and hopefully all is well.

Jon
No problem buddy, just did mine yesterday, I have the same brakes as you. Only one hex bolt holds the front pads. Dont worry about the headless bolt, its supposed to be like that
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Old 04-10-2011, 05:50 PM   #8111
Sloppy
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Originally Posted by D-Fuzz View Post
I am looking at buying a DR350 to use as a trail bike and ultimately for a trip down the Continental Divide Trail next summer. There is the odd one that comes up for sale around these parts, so I have me eyes peeled.

Anyway, is there a better version to look out for? I understand with the early kick-start ones, there was a street version and a dirt version. From what I have read, it seems there are advantages to getting a dirt version in that they have better suspension, rear disc brakes, among other improvements. The drawback is no turn signals or bits to make it street legal. Is it an involved process to try and equip the bike with these things? Is the kick-start a wise choice or should I be focusing more on an electric start version from later on? The electric start ones generally go for considerably more than the kick start bikes, mostly due to ease of use. As long as things are mostly equal between the two types, I am thinking the money I saved on a kick start model could go a fair way to making any improvements that may be required to get it ready for the CDT.
I own a kickstart DR350s. FOR THE LOVE OF GOD get one with an e-start. Or, buy one with a kickstart and remember this post and kick yourself as well.
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Old 04-10-2011, 06:09 PM   #8112
D-Fuzz
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I own a kickstart DR350s. FOR THE LOVE OF GOD get one with an e-start. Or, buy one with a kickstart and remember this post and kick yourself as well.
That is a pretty definitive response. Thanks. I know where to focus my search now.
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Old 04-10-2011, 06:13 PM   #8113
jungleplant
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i own a kickstart dr350s. For the love of god get one with an e-start. Or, buy one with a kickstart and remember this post and kick yourself as well.
ya,
my mom bought here first new car and said no to a/c because it made the payment go up 6 dollers a month , ill never forget it
she had the car for 6 summers omg mom , she never made that one again, mike
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Old 04-10-2011, 06:25 PM   #8114
Bob Onit
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Originally Posted by D-Fuzz View Post
I know where to focus my search now.
I'd do a little more research before you rule out a kickstart DR.
Both of mine are kickers and they always start on the 1st or 2nd kick, 3 at the very most and that's simply because they're tuned properly.

Good luck!
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Old 04-10-2011, 06:32 PM   #8115
AST236
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DR storage/ Wolfman Enduro bag

Just thought I'd share some info that might be helpful to other DR owners. Seems like there is never enough storage when I want to ride. My jacket has lots of pockets, but I can always find ways to use more space.

I finally bought a Wolfman Enduro Tank Bag (from another inmate at a deal of a price, thanks rockydog ) and could not be more pleased. Easy to mount, looks good, lots of space, not in my way, usual Wolfman quality.

Just my two cents worth...


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