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Old 04-21-2011, 08:24 AM   #8266
culliganman
92 dr 350s
 
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Oddometer: 181
cylinder P.S.I.

Good friend has a 1990 DR350 newer pumper carb (2 years old)
we cannot get it to start! spark seems weak but that also seems to be a common complaint cylinder has 120 P.S.I. wondering if that is to low?
valves are perfect petcock has been replaced.
Out of ideas any suggestions would be appreciated.
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Old 04-21-2011, 09:02 AM   #8267
Greg Bender
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BAD-MOD View Post
yea i got all the sizes are they all just std deep groove roller bearings ??
they don't have special cages or clearances ?
and one double row angular contact
Here are the bearing numbers that I've got:

Suzuki Part NumberIDODWidthSealsBrandPart NumberExtra Markings
09262-20121204714openKoyo6204RHRHR, SH
09262-30077307219openKoyo6306SH
08113-6905025429openKoyo6905
09262-20145205215openKoyo6304
09262-17038174212openKoyo6203R/ID
09262-20121204714openKoyo6204RHRHR, SH
09262-170271740121RSKoyo6203RUD
09262-220242256161RSNTN63/22 LAXLX


Hope this helps!

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 04-21-2011, 01:09 PM   #8268
outbackrider
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Removing Header Bolts

I have to remove the header on my DR 350 and am looking for
some good advice on the bolt removal. They are rusted...
Gonna PB Blast them and let it sit for a day or two. Was going to try
to use an allen wrench socket and then try to get a vice-grip on the outside head of each bolt and try to turn both at the same time....don't want to strip out head or break bolt off...any thoughts?

Thanks,
OBR
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Old 04-21-2011, 01:34 PM   #8269
PHILinFRANCE
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Hi
I had a tough time getting mine out !!!! gave up up on the first attempt for fear of knackering them ..............tried again after a hours run (red hot engine) and they came out a treat !!!!! worth a try.
Phil
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Old 04-21-2011, 02:10 PM   #8270
Bob Onit
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PHILinFRANCE View Post
Hi
I had a tough time getting mine out !!!! gave up up on the first attempt for fear of knackering them ..............tried again after a hours run (red hot engine) and they came out a treat !!!!! worth a try.
Phil
I agree with Phil. That pipe gets to about 1,000*F when run (that's why they sometimes glow red at night)
I would also soak the bolt threads with PB blaster or Seafoam Deep Creep as much as possible before the removal. If it's not an emergency I would spray the bolts down as often as possible before attempting to remove them.

When you get the wrench on the bolt try to tighten it just a hair before trying to loosen it. This will often help break it loose.
Keep in mind, if the Hex head is sloppy to begin with or gets sloppy after trying to break it free you can always use an SAE (USA) Allen wrench as they fall in between the metric sizes and will be a tighter fit. (This goes for all bolts head types as well)

Good luck!
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Old 04-21-2011, 02:13 PM   #8271
BAD-MOD
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Location: New Zealand
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Bender View Post
Here are the bearing numbers that I've got:

Suzuki Part NumberIDODWidthSealsBrandPart NumberExtra Markings
09262-20121204714openKoyo6204RHRHR, SH
09262-30077307219openKoyo6306SH
08113-6905025429openKoyo6905
09262-20145205215openKoyo6304
09262-17038174212openKoyo6203R/ID
09262-20121204714openKoyo6204RHRHR, SH
09262-170271740121RSKoyo6203RUD
09262-220242256161RSNTN63/22 LAXLX


Hope this helps!

Regards,

Gregory Bender
YEA it did man thanks a bunch
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Old 04-21-2011, 03:47 PM   #8272
yondering
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Onit View Post
Keep in mind, if the Hex head is sloppy to begin with or gets sloppy after trying to break it free you can always use an SAE (USA) Allen wrench as they fall in between the metric sizes and will be a tighter fit. (This goes for all bolts head types as well)
Better yet, use a hammer to tap a torx bit into the hole if the allen is sloppy. These grip much better than an allen head.
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Old 04-21-2011, 06:35 PM   #8273
brianjonesphoto
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Location: The Brier Patch, WA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by outbackrider View Post
I have to remove the header on my DR 350 and am looking for
some good advice on the bolt removal. They are rusted...
Gonna PB Blast them and let it sit for a day or two. Was going to try
to use an allen wrench socket and then try to get a vice-grip on the outside head of each bolt and try to turn both at the same time....don't want to strip out head or break bolt off...any thoughts?

Thanks,
OBR
Mine came off pretty easy with 16.5K miles on the bike. I got the engine warm (5-10 minute spin around the block) let it set for a little while sprayed it with PB Blaster and let it sit for maybe 30 minutes. Then I used a 1/2" impact wrench on the lowest torque setting.

When in doubt you are way less likely to strip out a stuck fastener with a reasonable amount of torque applied with an impact wrench. It's the constant torque of a wrench the does the most damage. The bit starts to ramp out and before you can correct you strip the damn thing.
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Old 04-21-2011, 08:55 PM   #8274
clab04
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Location: Deep Gap, NC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by outbackrider View Post
I have to remove the header on my DR 350 and am looking for
some good advice on the bolt removal. They are rusted...
Gonna PB Blast them and let it sit for a day or two. Was going to try
to use an allen wrench socket and then try to get a vice-grip on the outside head of each bolt and try to turn both at the same time....don't want to strip out head or break bolt off...any thoughts?

Thanks,
OBR
You can always get them hot with a torch. Be careful though not to melt any aluminum.
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Old 04-22-2011, 12:36 AM   #8275
outbackrider
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Removing header bolts

Thanks for the advice.
Seems I will continue with the PB Blaster treatment and get the
engine hot before I tackle this...

Thanks again.

OBR
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Old 04-22-2011, 09:11 AM   #8276
Pablo83
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Location: Woodland Park, CO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by culliganman View Post
Good friend has a 1990 DR350 newer pumper carb (2 years old)
we cannot get it to start! spark seems weak but that also seems to be a common complaint cylinder has 120 P.S.I. wondering if that is to low?
valves are perfect petcock has been replaced.
Out of ideas any suggestions would be appreciated.
TM33 pumper I assume? What's your jetting, needle and clip position? I have not checked compression on a DR, but I wouldn't think 120 would be low enough to cause starting problems (but I could be wrong)
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Old 04-22-2011, 10:04 AM   #8277
D-Fuzz
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I am going to look at an early dirt model DR350 (kickstart only) that appears to be in good condition other than the kickstart doesn't work. The bike can be bump started and runs fine otherwise. The owner said he was out for a ride, bike was running fine. He stopped and when he tried to start it again, the kickstart wouldn't move. He bump started the bike and rode it home. When he got home, he tried to kick start it again but there was no resistance on the lever. Any ideas what the problem may be and what to look for? What would be the worst case sceanrio and would that be something to absolutely walk away from?
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Old 04-22-2011, 10:27 AM   #8278
Bob Onit
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Fuzz View Post
I am going to look at an early dirt model DR350 (kickstart only) that appears to be in good condition other than the kickstart doesn't work. The bike can be bump started and runs fine otherwise. Any ideas what the problem may be and what to look for? What would be the worst case sceanrio and would that be something to absolutely walk away from?
Make sure that the idle doesn't wander up and down. The dirt models came stock with a pumper carburetor and they do wear out over time, the erratic idle is a dead giveaway. A new one is about $220

Cant help with the kicker, it could be anything from a $10 spring to a big dollar job depending on what broke.

Good luck
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Old 04-22-2011, 10:51 AM   #8279
EvilGenius
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Anyone here familiar with the kouba links?

How much longer are the #3s than the stockers?

I've heard 8mm but I don't know if thats the #1s, 2s or 3s.
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Old 04-22-2011, 11:03 AM   #8280
Bob Onit
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EvilGenius View Post
Anyone here familiar with the kouba links?

How much longer are the #3s than the stockers?

I've heard 8mm but I don't know if thats the #1s, 2s or 3s.
I cant recall off hand.
I'd email Norm and ask him.
His email addy is just about at the bottom of the text on this DR350 setup page.

http://koubalink.com/drinstall.html

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