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Old 04-22-2011, 02:49 PM   #8281
elroyjetsn
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Joined: Mar 2009
Location: Martinsburg, WV
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Quote:
Originally Posted by culliganman View Post
Good friend has a 1990 DR350 newer pumper carb (2 years old)
we cannot get it to start! spark seems weak but that also seems to be a common complaint cylinder has 120 P.S.I. wondering if that is to low?
valves are perfect petcock has been replaced.
Out of ideas any suggestions would be appreciated.
Mine (dr250) started easier after removing the old resistor from the spark plug connector housing. Just put in a piece of metal the same length instead.

Also, mine loads up some when hot and opening the throttle about 1/2 while kicking always does the trick if it won't go on 2 kicks with throttle closed. Either way I must be assertive with the foot to get a decent spark.
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Old 04-22-2011, 06:21 PM   #8282
juda5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Fuzz View Post
Any ideas what the problem may be and what to look for? What would be the worst case scenario and would that be something to absolutely walk away from?
The kicker turns a gear which then turns the clutch basket, see image I stole from Distech's DR350 build:



So the possibilities are:

Something wrong with the kickstart mechanism (most likely.)
Intermediate gear broken.
Clutch basket gear broken (least likely.)

Kickstarter parts are relatively cheap.

The thing to watch out for it that broken steel parts have a nasty habit of migrating to the stator side of the engine. The sump is flat, and the kickstand leans the bike to the left. Once they are on that side, it is only a matter of time before the rotor picks them up with it's big fat magnets and sucks them in between the stator and rotor -- that becomes an expensive repair.

If it were me, I would be looking for a very good price on the bike to begin with -- I'm thinking $5-600 tops.
Once I owned it, I would get both engine covers off, and make sure all the debris was cleared before starting it again.
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Old 04-22-2011, 06:41 PM   #8283
D-Fuzz
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Juda5, thanks for the info. The price is in the ballpark for what you mentioned, so it might be worth taking a flyer on it and see if I can fix it.
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Old 04-22-2011, 06:49 PM   #8284
Sloppy
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If I replace my stock DR350S petcock (with the second vacuum line) with a plain on/off petcock, do I need to do anything with the vacuum line coming from the carb (plug it or something)?

I get a whooshing noise when I kick the bike over similar to when the decompression lever is held down, but I don't know if it will keep me from starting it or not.
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Old 04-22-2011, 07:13 PM   #8285
jessepitt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sloppy View Post
If I replace my stock DR350S petcock (with the second vacuum line) with a plain on/off petcock, do I need to do anything with the vacuum line coming from the carb (plug it or something)?

I get a whooshing noise when I kick the bike over similar to when the decompression lever is held down, but I don't know if it will keep me from starting it or not.

Yah, plug it. It will make your bike run poorly or not at all.
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Old 04-22-2011, 07:17 PM   #8286
Bob Onit
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sloppy View Post
If I replace my stock DR350S petcock (with the second vacuum line) with a plain on/off petcock, do I need to do anything with the vacuum line coming from the carb (plug it or something)?

I get a whooshing noise when I kick the bike over similar to when the decompression lever is held down, but I don't know if it will keep me from starting it or not.
If you replace the stock DR350S vacuum petcock with a non vacuum petcock you must cap off the small nipple (right side of the carburetor) where the original vacuum line was connected to the petcock or you will have a vacuum leak which will result in very poor performance or it may not even want to start.

You can buy an assortment of vacuum plugs at any auto parts store for a few dollars.

*Jess, ya beat me to it while I was looking for a pic of the nipple
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Old 04-22-2011, 07:24 PM   #8287
jessepitt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Onit View Post
If you replace the stock DR350S vacuum petcock with a non vacuum petcock you must cap off the small nipple (right side of the carburetor) where the original vacuum line was connected to the petcock or you will have a vacuum leak which will result in very poor performance or it may not even want to start.

You can buy an assortment of vacuum plugs at any auto parts store for a few dollars.

*Jess, ya beat me to it while I was looking for a pic of the nipple

What did you find when you googled nipple? No wonder you got sidetracked.
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Old 04-22-2011, 07:29 PM   #8288
Bob Onit
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jessepitt View Post
What did you find when you googled nipple? No wonder you got sidetracked.
Give me a few minutes, it's tough typing with one hand
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Old 04-22-2011, 07:41 PM   #8289
jessepitt
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Originally Posted by Bob Onit View Post
Give me a few minutes, it's tough typing with one hand


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Old 04-22-2011, 08:37 PM   #8290
matloik
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broken pumper

I'm without Internet and with a busted pumper. Could someone tell me if the pumper squirt is actuated with the rod pushed in our let out/up? The little plastic piece that contacts with the spring-loaded throttle actuator has snapped. The pumper looks to be also spring loaded, and now it is always pushing the rod down. Is this 'on' or 'off'?
If it is off, can I just ride it? If 'on', can I disable it? It'd be a bummer if I can't ride during this 3 day ride/camp I'm on.
A PM would be most appreciated--it comes straight to my phone. Cheers.
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Old 04-22-2011, 09:13 PM   #8291
slartidbartfast
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The accelerator pump plunger is spring loaded and will squirt when pushed down. There should be a spring-loaded arm trying to press it down but when the throttle is closed, it holds this arm up, allowing the pump to reset.

If the pump is not working, you will probably find poor throttle response at low throttle, with a tendency to bog or die if you snap the throttle open. As long as you can ride around this behavior you will be doing no harm whatsoever and can just leave the carb alone.

Enjoy your trip.
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Old 04-23-2011, 02:54 AM   #8292
elroyjetsn
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Location: Martinsburg, WV
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matloik View Post
I'm without Internet and with a busted pumper. Could someone tell me if the pumper squirt is actuated with the rod pushed in our let out/up? The little plastic piece that contacts with the spring-loaded throttle actuator has snapped. The pumper looks to be also spring loaded, and now it is always pushing the rod down. Is this 'on' or 'off'?
If it is off, can I just ride it? If 'on', can I disable it? It'd be a bummer if I can't ride during this 3 day ride/camp I'm on.
A PM would be most appreciated--it comes straight to my phone. Cheers.
Not surprised. That plastic arm is tricky on reassembly. Tends to bind on the accelerator cam that operates it if you don't hold the lever out of the cam's way while assembling. (Previous owner may not have know that)

You may be able to fabricate a replacement from aluminum. Don't know if a Mikuni replacement is available.

Mine was binding when I got the bike, but I was able to bend it back without breaking it.
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Old 04-23-2011, 06:49 AM   #8293
Pablo83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elroyjetsn View Post
Don't know if a Mikuni replacement is available

Cheapcycleparts.com sells the plastic accelerator pump arm for $6.63.
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Old 04-23-2011, 07:05 AM   #8294
clab04
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Onit View Post
Make sure that the idle doesn't wander up and down. The dirt models came stock with a pumper carburetor and they do wear out over time, the erratic idle is a dead giveaway. A new one is about $220

Cant help with the kicker, it could be anything from a $10 spring to a big dollar job depending on what broke.

Good luck
What do you mean by 'wear out'? I have a time trying to get mine to idle steadily. Is there anything I can replace/rebuild?
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Old 04-23-2011, 07:06 AM   #8295
waAvr
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Packaged deal

If they sold a pumper squirter packaged with a nipple stopper, Bob could be back to typing with both hands....

sorry, it's early and we're off for a ride to test the new acerbis, aluminum carrier and fabricated anti-rock device....
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