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Old 04-27-2011, 04:45 PM   #8371
Greg Bender
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Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Cave Creek, Arizona, United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DisTech View Post
I was looking at the Motive bleeders and got a little discouraged trying to figure out what the proper adapter would be. Seemed like they were mainly automotive applications. Care to share a bit more about your customized universal adapter?
Sure, for the round rear master cylinder, I used this one:
http://store.motiveproducts.com/roun...-1101-p59.aspx

The rubber insert is conically shaped, so it works perfectly with round reservoirs (on my Moto Guzzis, '02 Tacoma, etc.). However, the conical shape will not work with rectangular reservoirs, such as our front master cylinders. So, I just removed the conical rubber insert (pull it out...nothing mechanical holds it in place). Then, I replaced it with a flat piece of old inner tube I cut to fit. A piece of wood and some rags underneath protects things from the chain.

That's it...nothing more to it than that.

Some guys make their own out of a garden sprayer and some reservoir caps from the junk yard or new OEM caps. I bought my Motive unit several years ago now largely because I didn't want to fuss with making my own. Plus, the Motive unit is made to handle brake fluid and has a nice pressure gauge. Perhaps garden sprayers can handle brake fluid, I dunno? But I do know that the pressure gauge is very nice to have...especially during situations when you are pressurizing a remote reservoir and there isn't a lot mechanical holding the hose in place. On the DR350, I think I used 5 or 6 PSI front and rear. On my friend's Lexus RX350 with ABS, the remote reservoir is easily accessible, whereas the master cylinder is very difficult to access. If I recall, I pressurized that remote reservoir to 12 PSI and bled all of her brakes.

One thing I know for certain, once you have a pressure bleeder (homemade or whatever) you will no longer dread bleeding brakes. My motos and autos all receive regular fluid changes.

Oh, I don't store any fluid in the unit. It gets drained after each use. Then, I clean the unit with rubbing alcohol (including pressurizing it so the alcohol is pushed through the hose. That keeps things nice and clean for next time.

Hope this helps!

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 04-27-2011, 07:36 PM   #8372
dtp
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There is a guy on eBay parting-out a DR350. He is from the Reno/Sparks, NV area. I tried to ask him a detailed question about a part I am interested in and he does not know the details because he bought the bike from someone else who had "several tricked-out DR350's in his garage."

This person he bought it from would not happen to be one of us here would it?

If so, would you please send me a PM so I can ask you a question about one of the parts he's selling? I don't want to risk $80 on an "upgrade" that is nothing more than what I already have. I would appreciate it a lot!
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Old 04-27-2011, 09:22 PM   #8373
hajime
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Quote:

One thing I know for certain, once you have a pressure bleeder (homemade or whatever) you will no longer dread bleeding brakes. My motos and autos all receive regular fluid changes.
Hey Greg,

Thanks. I'm about to bleed the front brake again. Got it all back together. This time I could feel the banjo cinch up real good to the new compression fitting. It sounds like you have a new specialty tool invented... I don't have the Motive pressure bleeder for this, but I do have a tool that pulls a vacuum at the slave. Your wizardry sounds better yet. I could go for "one minute" over an hour or more any day.

Kati
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Old 04-27-2011, 09:42 PM   #8374
DisTech
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Bender View Post
Sure, for the round rear master cylinder, I used this one:
http://store.motiveproducts.com/roun...-1101-p59.aspx

The rubber insert is conically shaped, so it works perfectly with round reservoirs (on my Moto Guzzis, '02 Tacoma, etc.). However, the conical shape will not work with rectangular reservoirs, such as our front master cylinders. So, I just removed the conical rubber insert (pull it out...nothing mechanical holds it in place). Then, I replaced it with a flat piece of old inner tube I cut to fit. A piece of wood and some rags underneath protects things from the chain.

That's it...nothing more to it than that.

Some guys make their own out of a garden sprayer and some reservoir caps from the junk yard or new OEM caps. I bought my Motive unit several years ago now largely because I didn't want to fuss with making my own. Plus, the Motive unit is made to handle brake fluid and has a nice pressure gauge. Perhaps garden sprayers can handle brake fluid, I dunno? But I do know that the pressure gauge is very nice to have...especially during situations when you are pressurizing a remote reservoir and there isn't a lot mechanical holding the hose in place. On the DR350, I think I used 5 or 6 PSI front and rear. On my friend's Lexus RX350 with ABS, the remote reservoir is easily accessible, whereas the master cylinder is very difficult to access. If I recall, I pressurized that remote reservoir to 12 PSI and bled all of her brakes.

One thing I know for certain, once you have a pressure bleeder (homemade or whatever) you will no longer dread bleeding brakes. My motos and autos all receive regular fluid changes.

Oh, I don't store any fluid in the unit. It gets drained after each use. Then, I clean the unit with rubbing alcohol (including pressurizing it so the alcohol is pushed through the hose. That keeps things nice and clean for next time.

Hope this helps!

Regards,

Gregory Bender
Thanks Greg, just the info I was hoping for.
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Old 04-28-2011, 04:29 AM   #8375
PHILinFRANCE
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Tap un Cap

She's old and battered with tap and cap, holds 14lts and only cost 40 !!!!! but she's mine




https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_x...o/IMG_2038.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_x...g/IMG_2039.JPG
[IMG]file:///tmp/moz-screenshot.png[/IMG][IMG]file:///tmp/moz-screenshot-1.png[/IMG]
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Old 04-28-2011, 07:03 AM   #8376
clab04
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Location: Deep Gap, NC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PHILinFRANCE View Post
She's old and battered with tap and cap, holds 14lts and only cost 40 !!!!! but she's mine




https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_x...o/IMG_2038.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_x...g/IMG_2039.JPG
[IMG]file:///tmp/moz-screenshot.png[/IMG][IMG]file:///tmp/moz-screenshot-1.png[/IMG]
Nice! What a bargan!
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Old 04-28-2011, 10:28 AM   #8377
juda5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hajime View Post
H
...I do have a tool that pulls a vacuum at the slave...
Kati
I have a similar tool to yours, which I use regularly for bleeding brakes.

I hook the vacuum up to the bleeder valve on the caliper before opening the valve.

Then I start the vacuum and crack the bleeder just enough that fluid starts to flow, then watch the reservoir at the lever -- make sure it does not get empty enough to suck air, and run about one reservoir's worth of brake fluid through before closing the bleeder valve. A couple pumps at the lever and you should have brakes!
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Old 04-28-2011, 10:31 AM   #8378
BikePilot
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyingWman View Post
Will the odometer gearbox from a 94SE fit my 99 dirt? I think I read somewhere 98-99 dirt got larger axle size
No, axle diameter is different.
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Old 04-28-2011, 11:24 AM   #8379
BAD-MOD
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Location: New Zealand
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drif10 View Post
New clutch arrived in the mail today from Sumo Brakes.

Fiber and metal plates, plus springs, for $75 delivered.

Guess we'll see how well it works.
good skills same here my fiber plates are still on the way .
am now waiting for valves and valve guides.

you guys any ideas on getting a 10.8 mm reamer ??? cant find one any place
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Old 04-28-2011, 11:55 AM   #8380
juda5
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Originally Posted by BAD-MOD View Post
you guys any ideas on getting a 10.8 mm reamer ??? cant find one any place
They are around, but not cheap:

http://www.funoutfitters.com/Arctic-...p/0444-014.htm

or:

http://www.alpha-sports.com/tools/suzuki_tools.htm

A bit cheaper in the UK, though:

http://www.engineeringsupplies.co.uk...er-p-3590.html

Adjustable is also an option -- not sure I'd trust them though:

http://grizzly.amazonwebstore.com/Gr...source=froogle
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Old 04-28-2011, 01:33 PM   #8381
MuddyGIMP
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DR350 Official Service & Clymers Manuals

Hi all :)

Another noobie I'm afraid I'm slowly trawlling my way through the forums on a steep adventure riding learning curve looking to start some distance touring very soon (unfortunatly have to ease into it on the old V-MAX! looking to start with a couple of weekenders through wales and Scottish highlands and hoping to get a DR350 and start preparing it for some adventure fun abroad soon as funds allow but thougt I'd get a head startand sort out service manuals for DR350 found rather difficult to track down...bu finally found thema have put them intoa torrent for download if anyone's after them :) it contains:-

the full 1990-1999 official suzuki service manual (for all DR350 types)
and the Clymers DR250-350 1990-1994 manual
and a couple of useful links I've found so far

torrent link page:-
http://dreamgirlswallpaper.no-ip.biz...r350/index.htm

I hope someone finds it useful and look forward to getting my own 350 soon :)
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Old 04-28-2011, 04:39 PM   #8382
clab04
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Location: Deep Gap, NC
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DR350 decals

I designed these and gave it to my friends at High Country Signs who printed it out on vinyl. The outside border is white, the stripes are metalic silver and the red letters are metalic as well. Let me know what you think.
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Hey hey hey! Don't you think he is dead enough?
Well he shouldn't have been playing on my side of the street!
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Old 04-28-2011, 04:44 PM   #8383
clab04
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DR 350 decals

One more
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Hey hey hey! Don't you think he is dead enough?
Well he shouldn't have been playing on my side of the street!
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Old 04-28-2011, 08:39 PM   #8384
dcstrom
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The DR falls down - and won't start afterward

I asked this question a while ago but nobody seemed to have much of a clue... at the time I thought it was a one-off because the bike was left laying on it's right side for 5 mins or more, so didn't think much more about it.

However twice since then it's been down, same side, but each time only for a few seconds. Hit the kill switch, pick it up - she no start... There's a few drops of gas on the ground coming from the carb area.

A few long runs on the starter doesn't work, neither does a push. What DOES work it letting it sit for 20 mins or so. Then, with another long run on the starter it gradually starts to fire and eventually runs and idles like normal. Weird thing is, even after idling fine for a few mins, at the first stop immediately after it dies. It starts again, reluctantly, and is fine after that. This has happened both times.

This is on a '99 EX, with a Clarke tank, if it makes any difference.

Next time I should try laying it down on the left and see if I get the same result!

Thanks for your help.

Trevor
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Old 04-28-2011, 09:40 PM   #8385
juda5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcstrom View Post
However twice since then it's been down, same side, but each time only for a few seconds. Hit the kill switch, pick it up - she no start... There's a few drops of gas on the ground coming from the carb area.
On the right side of the carb. is a vent tube. In stock trim it runs up to the top of the airbox. When you fall it fills up with gas & takes a while to clear out.

The fix is to put a T fitting into the line so that gas can drain out the bottom of the vent (or, more simply, take the vent tube off.)
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