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Old 06-23-2011, 12:17 PM   #9016
Kegler
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Joined: Oct 2009
Location: Owensboro KY
Oddometer: 48
Non Cush Rear Wheel Question

I know there are two different rear wheels on the DR350. The "S" (street model through at least 1995) models have the cush drive and the dirt-only models have a "solid" hub. I think the street model received a solid hub in 96 or 97 that remained until the 350 was discontinued in 99.

My question is, are the rear sprockets for all solid hub rear wheels (1990-99 dirt-only and 96?-99 street model) the same, or are there differences between the early models (90-93) and the later ones? I have a 1995 DR350SE that has the cush rear wheel that I use with 50-50 tires and I have purchased a dirt-only solid hub rear wheel for a full knobby.

I am wanting to install a 41, 42, or 43 tooth rear sprocket on the dirt wheel to match the street wheel and just change the countershaft sprocket for strictly off-road use. Are these sizes available for the dirt-only solid hub?
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Old 06-23-2011, 01:41 PM   #9017
brianjonesphoto
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front m/c bore spec

I ordered a moose front master cylinder rebuild kit for my 99se (0617-0084) and it's waaaay smaller diameter that the plunger coming out. The Nissin m/c is labeled a 1/2" bore as well as 8F 2. I'm starting to wonder if I have a non stock m/c or if the wrong part was packaged.

What is the correct M/C bore for a 99?

Thanks.
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Old 06-23-2011, 01:54 PM   #9018
EastBoundAndDown
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Got a guts tall seat and foam for free today. Back in february I sold my 97 DR350SE to a guy, and had just installed the guts tall sea. I'm 6'1 and this guy was 5'6 or so, I figured he would take it off for something shorter, at least the foam. Anyway I bought a DR250SE last month becuase I missed the 350, and this bike had the faom cut down lower than stock even.... I rode up to the guys house who I sold the 350 to since I had delivered it, and sure enough he was home, and gave me both the seat cover and tall foam. He also gave me the black steel bars off of the bike since mine has purple bars, and the aluminum handugards I sold it with. We BS'd for a few minutes too. I sold it with a new set of shinko 244's and i never got to test those, he told me they work great, so I will buy a set for this bike when the D606s are toast.

Anyways just mounted up the tall seat and love it, these bikes are a ton of fun, I've put 1000 miles on this 250 and I've had it 3 weeks!
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Old 06-23-2011, 02:21 PM   #9019
Atom00
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Installing the acerbis headlight and was wondering what the extra light built into it is for? It runs both high and lo fine on the main bulb, but has second smaller one for something .
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Old 06-24-2011, 12:20 AM   #9020
ztaj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wemjr300 View Post

I am wanting to install a 41, 42, or 43 tooth rear sprocket on the dirt wheel to match the street wheel and just change the countershaft sprocket for strictly off-road use. Are these sizes available for the dirt-only solid hub?
I have a 41 tooth on my solid hub rear, run a 15 tooth front and carry a 13 tooth and circlip pliers for quick changes. There is not much adjustment left in the chain when the 13 tooth is installed though.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Atom00 View Post
Installing the acerbis headlight and was wondering what the extra light built into it is for? It runs both high and lo fine on the main bulb, but has second smaller one for something .
Park light ?
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Old 06-24-2011, 03:31 AM   #9021
clab04
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I am wanting to install a 41, 42, or 43 tooth rear sprocket on the dirt wheel to match the street wheel and just change the countershaft sprocket for strictly off-road use. Are these sizes available for the dirt-only solid hub?[/QUOTE]

Here is a link for JT Sprockets. It will give you a list of applicable bikes for each sprocket. You have either a JTR808 or a JTR822. Just enter in those numbers in the search. You will need to measure the width of your hub bolt pattern to make sure. It should be 146mm or 156mm (5.75") (6.14"). I got mine at ebay. Love it. 15/41, 5100rpm @ 60mph and 54mpg with pumper carb!
http://www.jtsprockets.com/61.0.html?&L=0
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Old 06-24-2011, 05:18 AM   #9022
Greg Bender
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Atom00 View Post
Installing the acerbis headlight and was wondering what the extra light built into it is for? It runs both high and lo fine on the main bulb, but has second smaller one for something .
Many Moto Guzzis (and other machines destined for European markets) have this light as well. I believe some/many/most/all European countries require a daytime running light and that this is the solution. Unlike many states in the USA, some countries do not require the headlight to be on all the time (and still equipment switches with "off/park/on").

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 06-24-2011, 07:09 AM   #9023
Kegler
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Location: Owensboro KY
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Solid Hub Sprocket Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by clab04 View Post
I am wanting to install a 41, 42, or 43 tooth rear sprocket on the dirt wheel to match the street wheel and just change the countershaft sprocket for strictly off-road use. Are these sizes available for the dirt-only solid hub?
Here is a link for JT Sprockets. It will give you a list of applicable bikes for each sprocket. You have either a JTR808 or a JTR822. Just enter in those numbers in the search. You will need to measure the width of your hub bolt pattern to make sure. It should be 146mm or 156mm (5.75") (6.14"). I got mine at ebay. Love it. 15/41, 5100rpm @ 60mph and 54mpg with pumper carb!
http://www.jtsprockets.com/61.0.html?&L=0[/QUOTE]

Thanks for the info, that's just what I needed!
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Old 06-24-2011, 07:10 AM   #9024
KnobblyOne
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Huck369 View Post
Going bigger bore won't change the RPM's required to run a few MPH...try running a tooth bigger on the front sprocket first, it's cheap and easy...
I see your point. I am running 15/47 now and 1st is just usable and 6th is good for 60mph at 6,000rpm. Thought the big bore might allow me to go to a 14/43, but most likely my limiting factor is the spacing on the stock tranny.
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Old 06-24-2011, 12:21 PM   #9025
frdbronco8
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tall seat?

I just about have my DR set up the way I want it. I am 6'1 and put 1.5 inch bar risers on to cure my hunched over when standing issues. Now I notice my knees bent and elbows reaching up for the bars when sitting. Tall seat foam sounds like the ticket. Does one need a new special seat cover to work with this?

Does this make a big difference for folks about my height?

Thanks
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Old 06-24-2011, 05:31 PM   #9026
Atom00
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Location: New York
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frdbronco8 View Post
I just about have my DR set up the way I want it. I am 6'1 and put 1.5 inch bar risers on to cure my hunched over when standing issues. Now I notice my knees bent and elbows reaching up for the bars when sitting. Tall seat foam sounds like the ticket. Does one need a new special seat cover to work with this?

Does this make a big difference for folks about my height?

Thanks

You would need a new seat cover if you get the foam. This place sells both and seems to be the only supplier of the two still around.http://www.gutsracing.com/SearchResu...ategoryID=1537 I too am 6'1" and have sat on one with the tall foam/cover (made by ceet) and felt like I was in a better riding position, needless to say it is also the next mod on my list
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Old 06-24-2011, 06:48 PM   #9027
EastBoundAndDown
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Just installed the guts tall seat yesterday and I'm 6'1. Do it immediately. Also I got the medium foam and its very comfortable.
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Old 06-25-2011, 08:20 AM   #9028
dean-o
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SE leaking fuel cap - solution???

searches have found mention of the problem, but not the solution & i have a dr200 doing it as well - hell of a mess.
and yes, a clarke or acerbis are on the short list for my 350 , but not the 200.
thanks for your help!
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Old 06-25-2011, 02:02 PM   #9029
Ghostpilots
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I opened the case of my 1990 DR350S the other day after a botched gasket replacement and kickstarter clean to find this. As you can see, the little lever gear thing attached to the gear shifter has been pushed upwards out of the case and into the kickstarter gear. It (the lever gear thingy) has been gouged and very slightly bent.

Bike HAS NOT been run since this happened, though it has been kicked over a few times, which probably is what started the problem i the first place. What happened I think is that the kickstarter lever was installed sitting in the 10 o'clock position, rather than the 12, and was then kicked over multiple times.







So; thoughts on this problem? Is it bike-destroying? Can I just buy a new part to replace the gouged one? Why does it seem to be so far out of the case? This is out of my mechanical depth so any and all help would be great
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Old 06-25-2011, 04:52 PM   #9030
brianjonesphoto
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghostpilots View Post
I opened the case of my 1990 DR350S the other day after a botched gasket replacement and kickstarter clean to find this. As you can see, the little lever gear thing attached to the gear shifter has been pushed upwards out of the case and into the kickstarter gear. It (the lever gear thingy) has been gouged and very slightly bent.

Bike HAS NOT been run since this happened, though it has been kicked over a few times, which probably is what started the problem i the first place. What happened I think is that the kickstarter lever was installed sitting in the 10 o'clock position, rather than the 12, and was then kicked over multiple times.

So; thoughts on this problem? Is it bike-destroying? Can I just buy a new part to replace the gouged one? Why does it seem to be so far out of the case? This is out of my mechanical depth so any and all help would be great
that's the shift pawl. It's connected to the shift lever on the other side if the bike. I'm going to guess you laid the bike over to pull the clutch cover and the bike is laying on the shift lever. It happened to me too the first time. Get a scrap piece of 2x4 and but it under the foot peg to raise the bike off the ground and it should drop right back into place.
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