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Old 06-16-2008, 05:31 PM   #1021
tpar1220
such a pud..
 
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Joined: Jan 2007
Location: martinsville... ish, in.
Oddometer: 2,408
Quote:
Can someone post some pics of the S model with handguards mounted. Seems like there is little to no room with brake/clutch/decomp levers and mirrors.
I'm wanting the flag style guards. Thinking the ones that Rocky Mtn ATV sells.

This is a pic of my new to me 91

wow! sweet machine, whoever had it before ya must have really taken good care of it..


thats why it doesn't have any barkbusters right now, i couldn't get em to fit. and i have service manual i forgot to give ya.
looks like ya washed it already...i can get em dirty, just don't clean em very well.
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Old 06-17-2008, 06:24 AM   #1022
dentedvw
Where did I put that
 
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Joined: Mar 2008
Location: ☼SLC-ish☼
Oddometer: 2,144
Anyone know where I could find an SE model generator coil? I am trying to convert my dirt model to street.
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Old 06-17-2008, 07:38 AM   #1023
Intrigue_262000
Did you see that wheelie?
 
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Joined: Mar 2007
Location: Central Pennsylvania
Oddometer: 1,040
Bikebandit.com has them, watch e-bay also.
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Old 06-17-2008, 10:08 AM   #1024
GaThumper
Road Less Traveled
 
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Joined: Jun 2006
Location: Thumpin' in North GA - headin' for the Smokys
Oddometer: 509
Quote:
Originally Posted by delkron97
wow! sweet machine, whoever had it before ya must have really taken good care of it..


thats why it doesn't have any barkbusters right now, i couldn't get em to fit. and i have service manual i forgot to give ya.
looks like ya washed it already...i can get em dirty, just don't clean em very well.
I installed the Maier Woods Pro handguards on mine last year. I don't remember having much trouble getting everything to fit. I didn't even have to cut my balls off. Here's a few pics...











I also installed Pro Taper SE bars at the same time and used the G2 threaded bar end mounts and I HIGHLY recommend them. Tap out some threads in the ends of the aluminum bars and screw in the mounts!



http://g2ergo.com/shop/catalog/Nylon...Mount-225.html
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Dirtly: 2009 Suzuki DR650SE Road Sofa: 2001 Yamaha (ad)Venture 1300
Dirtlier: 1999 Suzuki DR350SE Old Sport: 1979 Suzuki GS1000E

1996 Suzuki Intruder 1400 (for sale) 1987 Yamaha TT600 (for sale)

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Old 06-19-2008, 05:24 AM   #1025
shank
Shank950
 
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Joined: Nov 2006
Location: Lockyer Valley Qld Australia
Oddometer: 781
Just Picked Up A 91 Dr350.

G,day
I just picked up a 91 350. It seems like it should be a bit of fun.
I have the Carby Off it so that I install the #140 Jet and a new Needle In it. I should be able to pick the parts up on Saturday.
I have cut the air Box and opened up the Exhaust.

I have one problem! the air mixture screw is stuck fast. Has anyone ever came across this before.
I am begining to think that some clown has loctited the screw in place. I have just sprayed it with release spray (wurth Rost off).

Any advise will be well received.

My old XR75 had stiffer suspension that this thing.
The next thing is to get this sorted to carry my 110kg fat sorry ass.
Shank
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Old 06-19-2008, 06:17 AM   #1026
Bronco638
Nobody Home
 
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Joined: Dec 2004
Location: Itasca, IL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shank
I have one problem! the air mixture screw is stuck fast. Has anyone ever came across this before.
On my DR350SE's CV carb, my fuel/air mixture screw is difficult to turn (like it needs the threads to be chased with a tap). There are some places where I need to use a pair of pliers (on the extended fuel screw) to turn it. Is it possible that it's just really difficult to turn? You need a pretty small flat blade screwdriver to get into the recess. Perhaps you just don't have enough torque due to the small handle. You may need to dip the carb body in some sore of cleaning solution.
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Old 06-19-2008, 04:08 PM   #1027
BikePilot
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Joined: Jul 2005
Location: Tampa
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Bronco, it should move easily, try taking the screw out and clean the screw and carb body very well. The threads are quite fine and a bit of dirt will make it hard to turn.

Also, the DR350 has a fuel screw, not an air screw - big difference when you do get it to move!
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Old 06-19-2008, 04:25 PM   #1028
shank
Shank950
 
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Location: Lockyer Valley Qld Australia
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Well I got it out with a bit of bother.
Slow and steady wins the race.
thanks for the help.
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Old 06-19-2008, 04:53 PM   #1029
dentedvw
Where did I put that
 
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Joined: Mar 2008
Location: ☼SLC-ish☼
Oddometer: 2,144
Well, I have done it again, I fooled with a good running bike til it was broken.

I was told by a fellow at the motorcycle shop that the hesitation and occasional popping was caused by valves being out of adjustment. I checked with someone with a manual, and it gave me the range that it should be in. So I found what I thought was TDC, and found one valve just a a bit out of adjustment. So I tightened it down a hair. Just a bit, mind you.
I changed the oil, replaced the spark plug, put it all back together.

Now it won't run. About two hundred kicks later, and it is definitely not running.
I pulled the choke for a test, and it ran for a short bit, but quite rich, and I couldn't turn the choke off without it starting to cut out, but I did it anyway after a minute or so.
Then it wouldn't start, no matter what I did. I pulled the plug, and it was fouled for sure. Cleaned it up, put it back. Nothing. Pulled it again, put the original back in. Nothing.

And yes, there is gas in it. It's turned on. There is the right amount of oil, it appears. No E-start. Just my tired leg.

Help, I promised my wife we could go for a ride tonight, now I am afraid that I won't go for a ride for weeks, months. There is only a handful of repair shops here, and they all say weeks to months to look at a bike.

I am embarrased to say that I had to give up on another bike because it couldn't be repaired by myself or a shop, which cost me hundreds of dollars, and five weeks. That bike had seized rocker arm adjusters, or something. I just parked it in the basement and bought another with money I had saved for something else, because my wife claimed the new SV, and I want to ride. It's getting a bit tight to pay for another mechanic too. I am feeling discouraged.
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Old 06-20-2008, 09:45 AM   #1030
Bronco638
Nobody Home
 
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Joined: Dec 2004
Location: Itasca, IL
Oddometer: 3,413
Quote:
Originally Posted by BikePilot
Bronco, it should move easily, try taking the screw out and clean the screw and carb body very well. The threads are quite fine and a bit of dirt will make it hard to turn.

Also, the DR350 has a fuel screw, not an air screw - big difference when you do get it to move!
Hey BP,
The carb just got a real good cleaning. And, it's been an issue before (after other "good" cleanings). So, either I don't clean carbs as good as I think or those threads really do need to be chased with a tap. Since I have the mixture dialed in and don't have to adjust that often, I'll consider chasing the threads the next time I clean the carb.

I thought it was considered an "air/fuel mixture screw". ???
Quote:
Originally Posted by dentedvw
Well, I have done it again, I fooled with a good running bike til it was broken.

I was told by a fellow at the motorcycle shop that the hesitation and occasional popping was caused by valves being out of adjustment. I checked with someone with a manual, and it gave me the range that it should be in. So I found what I thought was TDC, and found one valve just a a bit out of adjustment. So I tightened it down a hair. Just a bit, mind you...
Some shop manuals are known to have the wrong adjustment settings. I recall a lengthy thread concerning this very issue over at Maximum Suzuki. You may want to check over there for the correct settings.
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Old 06-21-2008, 09:51 AM   #1031
Matttys
Matt the Balloon Guy
 
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Joined: Aug 2004
Oddometer: 436
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronco638
Mine measured .40"
Bronco - thanks for the help. That was exactly what I needed to make my decision. New tires are on the way.
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Old 06-22-2008, 02:38 PM   #1032
tman52804
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Joined: Jun 2008
Oddometer: 5
97 DR350SE Chain Guard install

Anyone have any pics of how the chain guard is installed? I have the chain guard and mounting parts, not quite sure how to assemble. .....Thanks!
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Old 06-22-2008, 04:50 PM   #1033
dentedvw
Where did I put that
 
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Joined: Mar 2008
Location: ☼SLC-ish☼
Oddometer: 2,144
I solved my starting issue by putting a turn or two on the fuel screw. I found that if I twisted the throttle about halfway, it would start, so a turn of the screw it was. Runs great now.
I guess I bumped it or something. Ugh. Where is the "idiot" smilie.

I purchased a chain guard also, and found it incompatible with my dirt model.
Ah well. Modify.

dentedvw screwed with this post 06-22-2008 at 05:01 PM
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Old 06-22-2008, 07:20 PM   #1034
BigCanoe
Studly Adventurer
 
Joined: May 2005
Location: Located in Moncure, NC
Oddometer: 703
Anyone got tips for titleing an offroad DR350 in North or South Carolina? I am thinking of picking one up as a project.
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Old 06-22-2008, 08:11 PM   #1035
htbyron
n00b - now with a thumper
 
Joined: Jun 2006
Location: Arlington & Shenandoah, VA
Oddometer: 287
Laugh Joining the club!

Picked up a 99 DR350SE this weekend from inmate gonnagetdirty!



BTW, gonnagetdirty was an outastanding seller and an all-around good guy -- he spent lots of time tweaking the bike and making sure I wouldn't have to worry about adjustments and the like -- I am grateful cuz I don't know nuthin bout wrenchin (topic for a new thread, since I gotta learn now). He also showed me what I needed to keep an eye on and what I might want to replace or upgrade over the next year. A very patient soul, despite my n00biness!

I haven't really gotten to ride it yet -- just a test ride in the PO's neighborhood, then a short run up my street yesterday. I was looking for a lighter-weight, crashable bike I could ride on fire roads to gain confidence and eventually get into a little easy trail riding. I've done some jeep trail on my BMW R1200GS, and picking it up wasn't as fun as it sounds.

No mods ... yet. I'm gonna ride it for a while and see what it needs, then sort out priorities.

The only problem is that the clutch doesn't completely disengage when the lever is pulled in. It's been adjusted, but there is still some noticeable friction when trying to roll the bike with the lever pulled in, so I have to shift to neutral in order to roll it. I suspect that the problem also results in some engine difficulty when coming to a stop, but I haven't ridden it enough yet to see how big a deal that is. I imagine I will have to replace the clutch before long -- any thoughts or advice?


I have been reading this thread religiously for a few weeks now (and sporadically before that). There is a wealth of information here, and I will be calling on the expertise of you guys quite a bit over the next few months, I imagine.

Looking forward to playing in the dirt!
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