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Old 02-28-2012, 09:54 AM   #11056
dtp
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Location: Turlock, California
Oddometer: 383
Quote:
Originally Posted by PK View Post
I did the 385 kit last winter. Noticeable improvement all around and I'm very happy with it. The machinist also did some cleanup work to the ports and replaced my valve guide seals. His cost for the boring and other work was about $100.
The 440 kit will cost about $450 to buy and have the sleeve installed and bored.

Bigger can be better, but the 385 is no slouch!
Ahhhh! An answer!

Thanks, that's exactly the kind of info I was looking for. Only $100 for all that machining... that's pretty good. Did you do it because you had to replace the top end anyways or did you do it solely for the the performance boost?

Also, did you do it yourself? If so, was it difficult?

Thanks!
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Old 02-28-2012, 10:05 AM   #11057
MrPulldown
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtp View Post
Ahhhh! An answer!

Thanks, that's exactly the kind of info I was looking for. Only $100 for all that machining... that's pretty good. Did you do it because you had to replace the top end anyways or did you do it solely for the the performance boost?

Also, did you do it yourself? If so, was it difficult?

Thanks!
But 100 Minnesota Dollars is not the same as 100 california $s.
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Old 02-28-2012, 10:08 AM   #11058
MrPulldown
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Originally Posted by TheOtherBart View Post
Cool, thanks. Now...how do I check to see if it's at half life?
Well in the previous post you stated that the only write up/ instructions you found were on how to check the tensioner. Which is basicily pulling out the tensioner, and seeing how far out the tensioner is. Compare that to the full travel stroke of the tensioner. If you are on the last few clicks that means your cam chain is pretty streched and you should get a new one.

Poke around on you tube there are tones of videos.
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Old 02-28-2012, 10:36 AM   #11059
slartidbartfast
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Joined: Dec 2003
Location: Southern Louisiana or Southern England or ...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPulldown View Post
You could try simply sticking the magnets to the outside of the drain plug. If the magnet will magatize the entire plug, making metal bits to the end of the plug itself.

I think loctite brand makes many type of epoxies and super glue like bonding agents.
Seems like a good idea and will probably work but when the magnet falls or gets knocked off (and it will), the glob of fine metal particles stuck to the plug will all be released at once - I don't want to imagine what might happen next.

I use an old HDD magnet stuck on the filter on my BMW GS but if it falls off (much less likely due to its size) any captured "stuff" still has to get through the filter before it can get back into circulation in the engine.
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Old 02-28-2012, 11:16 AM   #11060
dtp
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPulldown View Post
But 100 Minnesota Dollars is not the same as 100 california $s.
Ha ha... that's so true.
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Old 02-28-2012, 11:58 AM   #11061
TheOtherBart
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Location: DeKalb County, Illinois
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPulldown View Post
Well in the previous post you stated that the only write up/ instructions you found were on how to check the tensioner. Which is basicily pulling out the tensioner, and seeing how far out the tensioner is. Compare that to the full travel stroke of the tensioner. If you are on the last few clicks that means your cam chain is pretty streched and you should get a new one.

Poke around on you tube there are tones of videos.
I wasn't clear...I found where people mentioned checking how much travel was left in the tensioner, but no details on how that check was actually done. My Google-fu must be weak, I'm coming up empty. Guess I can just start pulling bolts...what's the worst that could happen?
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Old 02-28-2012, 12:09 PM   #11062
slartidbartfast
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Location: Southern Louisiana or Southern England or ...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyingWman View Post
Makes sense now. Good thing I had a screwdriver next to me to help visualize . Do you have a pumper carb or cv/or is the screw located in the same place on both? How about a flathead bit and clamp needlenose vice grips on it and turn as far as you can, then turn bit in the vice grips and continue. Or how about a ratcheting box wrench that is correct size as that bit and use that. I'm not of much else help as I have never delt with the electric start
I bought a set of jeweler's screwdrivers in the dollar store. Took either the largest or second-largest and cut the handle down to about one inch. Worked like a charm but still not as easy as the extended screw.

You should not need vise grips, ratchets, etc. If the screw is that hard to turn, suggest you remove the carb and clean it up. Also be very wary of bottoming the screw out hard. This will damage the hole, forever screwing up the idle mixture, or worse, it willl break off the tip of the needle in the hole, at which point, no amount of fiddling with the screw will get the bike to idle (and it probably won't start.) Anyone acquiring a non-running bike should also check for this condition while cleaning/servicing the carb.
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Old 02-28-2012, 12:30 PM   #11063
MrPulldown
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OK here's a fish bro

go to this ol boys site (thanks Bender) and DL the workshop manual:
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/dr350.htm
Page 3-46 discribes the auto chain tensioner. It does not show you how to check though.

Follow these intsruction for the inspection. These are from a buddy of mine when I asked about it. He just performed it and was freash on his mind.

1.Remove exhaust header.
2.Remove hard oil line that runs from front of clutch cover to to the rear of engine.
3.Locate cam chain tensioner and remove center 10mm bolt, spring and plunger assembly will come out as well.
4. Remove the two 4 or 5mm allen bolts that hold on the tensioner, and carefully remove assembly.
5. The tensioner has a ratcheting pawl assembly, pull the plunger out while counting the number of clicks it takes to max it out. Now push it all the way back in and count the total number of clicks of travel the pawl can move through. For reference my bike had 8 clicks left out of 25 total.

If you fel that you need a little more tension in your cam chain. THis is a linked video to the cam chain auto tensioner trick.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n2E4b...ature=youtu.be

Have fun turning some wrenches, and don't bugger up the nuts like the dude in the vid.
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Old 02-28-2012, 07:04 PM   #11064
PK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtp View Post
Ahhhh! An answer!

Thanks, that's exactly the kind of info I was looking for. Only $100 for all that machining... that's pretty good. Did you do it because you had to replace the top end anyways or did you do it solely for the the performance boost?

Also, did you do it yourself? If so, was it difficult?

Thanks!
I did it for some more power. Nothing wrong with my engine then or now. It isn't a hard job - just take your time with a manual. Follow your machinists advice regarding how to clean and prep for reassembly - they generally know what they are talking about.

My cost was lowish because my guy is a solo operator out of his garage and has been for decades! Also, our Minnesota money is really different from your American money!
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Old 02-28-2012, 07:04 PM   #11065
MOTO DUDE
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Location: Palm Coast, Florida
Oddometer: 134
I recently installed a Clarke tank with a gravity petcock on my DR350se with the stock CV carb. I know the vacuum port on the carb for stock petcock should now be capped off.

The problem is when I cap it off the bike will not run. If I have the bike running and just put my finger over the vacuum hole port on the carb it will stall immediately.

It runs very good with out to port blocked. FWIW I just cleaned the carb, I have the air screw out just under two turns.

Anyone have an idea what the problem is?


"Just get a pumper carb is not the answer I'm looking for"

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Old 02-29-2012, 05:06 AM   #11066
Huck369
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Location: Somerset, KY
Oddometer: 80
Quote:
Originally Posted by Huck369 View Post
I have a few pics up here:
http://s190.photobucket.com/albums/z...ck369/DR350SE/

Will try to get some better ones of the rack, if I don't forget..
Added one I took last night....



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Old 02-29-2012, 08:54 AM   #11067
Laura0107
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Location: SC Midlands
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Huck369 View Post
Added one I took last night....
That's definitely not the TCI Borrego rack, then.
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Old 02-29-2012, 10:21 AM   #11068
MrPulldown
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Location: Truckee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MOTO DUDE View Post
I recently installed a Clarke tank with a gravity petcock on my DR350se with the stock CV carb. I know the vacuum port on the carb for stock petcock should now be capped off.

The problem is when I cap it off the bike will not run. If I have the bike running and just put my finger over the vacuum hole port on the carb it will stall immediately.

It runs very good with out to port blocked. FWIW I just cleaned the carb, I have the air screw out just under two turns.

Anyone have an idea what the problem is?


"Just get a pumper carb is not the answer I'm looking for"
Something is wrong with the vac port. I suspsect that you are plugging up a vent port rather than the vac one. The vac diaphram of the petcock is essentially the same as the putting your finger on it, as it does not flow any air.

I reread and see that you jsut cleaned the carb. That probably has more to do with it. Did you count the number of turns of the "air screw: when you took it apart.
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Old 02-29-2012, 02:53 PM   #11069
pavlos79
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Location: Somewhere in the Mediterranean
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Dirt's tank on a street model

Has anyone ever fitted a DR350 dirt model plastic OEM tank, on the street model?
I know they have different mounting points, but maybe with a little bit of engineering..
I don't want an oversized plastic tank, the dirt model's one is just fine for me!
Just to gain some weight!
So, has anyone ever tried it?
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Old 02-29-2012, 03:01 PM   #11070
HellSickle
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Joined: Sep 2005
Location: Fort Collins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pavlos79 View Post
Has anyone ever fitted a DR350 dirt model plastic OEM tank, on the street model?
I know they have different mounting points, but maybe with a little bit of engineering..
I don't want an oversized plastic tank, the dirt model's one is just fine for me!
Just to gain some weight!
So, has anyone ever tried it?
I looked into it a couple years ago. It's possible, but would require engineering a mounting system. The exact details are kinda fuzzy.
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