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Old 03-19-2012, 06:30 AM   #11296
Teeeeeemu
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Joined: Feb 2012
Location: Finland
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Cool2 Thank you come again

I checked the gear drum bolt and it indeed was out by 1 or 2 mm. I tightened it and aligned the fork thingy and now I have six gears!!! Thanks a ton, without adv I would have and idea how it fix the dr.

I still have some (not very loud) rattling though so now Ill go do the valve check for the first time.

I looked at the cam chain while doing the bolt. It didnt look at all loose, I poked it and it moved maybe 2-3mm. So Ill let it be and focus on the possible valve adjustment.

I rode the doctor yesterday for a few kms on the street. When I whacked the throttle completely, I heard the rpms rise but didnt feel much acceleration. Is this clutch slipping? Reasons being wrong tightness on the cable or not using motorbike oil?

Thanks.
-Teemu
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Old 03-19-2012, 06:39 AM   #11297
Greg Bender
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Location: Cave Creek, Arizona, United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hajime View Post
Hello Gang,

The DR is a great bike and I'm having lots of fun with it . However it goes on reserve at about 96 miles - so I need a bigger tank and the wind is freezing on paved roads - so I would like to install a windshield. Here are a couple of questions.

Windshield:
I've been searching for a windshield. The Slip Stream Spitfire was recommended many pages back. This windshield is 17 1/4 inch wide X 15 " tall. That seems pretty big to me. If you are using one what are your experinces with it? Are there any other windshields I should consider?

Tank:
I have lowered the bike and put a corbin seat on to allow me to get my toes on the ground. I still have to be careful not to fall over when coming to a full stop (Especially if the trail is rocky and slanted and steep ). In this case which tank would be best, Clark or Acerbis?

By the way this is a great thread. You guys are so helpful.

THX
Last summer when I was on my ~2000 mile dual sport trip on my DR350, I thought I wanted a windshield. I bought the slip stream and mounted it up. My yield was a lot of new wind noise and helmet buffeting. So much so that I took it back off before starting the trip (and later sold it). I'm not saying it can't be made to work, just that I was unable to make it work well for me (the drawbacks did not outweigh the benefits). The trip was great without the shield and I've no desire to fit another one.

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 03-19-2012, 08:47 AM   #11298
Pablo83
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Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Woodland Park, CO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kknuth View Post
1. Aftermarket exhaust. NOT loud, but performance oriented. Does the DR350 FMF fit? yes
2. Carb jet kit. Is this worth it on this carb? probably
3. Other carb mods?
4. Rear shock. Mine is totally shot. Is there an aftermarket available? DR350 shock fits or no? DR350 fits
5. Rear rack. Do DR350 racks fit? yes
6. More modern front fender. DR350 or DRZ400 fender fits??? DR350
7. More modern headlight shroud. DRZ400 fits???
8. Oversized tank. Is the Clarke 4.2 gal the biggest? The Clarke tank carries about.3 gallons of fuel that will not drain out of the tank due to the petcock location, so it effectively only holds 3.9 gallons. The Acerbis is 4.2 gallons and you can use it all.
9. Air/Fuel mix screw. Which one fits?
10. Plastic Side covers. Best source for these. Do DR350 covers fit? Is Maijer the only aftermarket supplier? DR350's fit

Thanks for looking at my "Top 10". I appreciate the help getting up to speed on what is possible with this bike.
I've answered some of your questions above. The primary differences between the 250 and 350 are the crank, rod, piston, jug, head, and carb. Although there are slight differences in many other parts, I've found that they were pretty much all interchangeable. See the DR250S link in my sig line.
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Old 03-19-2012, 09:43 AM   #11299
Hammerspur
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Location: Cranston, RI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teeeeeemu View Post
I checked the gear drum bolt and it indeed was out by 1 or 2 mm. I tightened it and aligned the fork thingy and now I have six gears!!!
Great!
Glad I was wrong, "DUH..."
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Old 03-19-2012, 10:02 AM   #11300
vagabond65
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Couple of questions & rear shock rebuild test.

I just had my rear shock on my '97 DR350 rebuilt by House of Horsepower here in OKC & went to try it out yesterday before the rains set in & WOW, what a difference! It's a little stiffer due to the heavier Progressive spring - that & finally having oil & nitrogen in it! No more automatic bottoming out! Next up is the front suspension which is a bit soft. It played a part in my taking a dive in the Oklahoma red mud after hitting a very hard, sharp bottom at a 45 angle - down it went in the mud I was trying to avoid. It's 15 years old ( I got it in August of last year) & I doubt if the suspension has ever been serviced.
When I was installing the shock, the vent hose that goes up to the airbox(?) came free. I just routed it upwards as I couldn't see where it plugged in to. I'm going to do a T-vent mod but was curious if this not being plugged into the correct place would be an issue. It seemed to run fine.
Also, I've got O'Neal mx boots that I wear that I've put a piece of aluminum on the side of the sole to help shift but this only works so-so & was wondering what other options might be available. I'm a bit wary of raising the shifter position in case of dropping it & driving the shifter into the case. Any suggestions?
Thanks - this thread has been amazing in helping me figure this bike out & make it mine!





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Old 03-19-2012, 10:27 AM   #11301
kknuth
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Location: Twin Cities
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pablo83 View Post
I've answered some of your questions above. The primary differences between the 250 and 350 are the crank, rod, piston, jug, head, and carb. Although there are slight differences in many other parts, I've found that they were pretty much all interchangeable. See the DR250S link in my sig line.
THANKS Pablo. This gets me started!!!
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Old 03-19-2012, 10:42 AM   #11302
wbedient
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Location: North Central Washington
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scharfg View Post
Hi there I have a '96DR350SE and I'm getting the fork oil changed out and I thought I might want to upgrade the front suspension while I was at it. I usually install a front fork brace but I don't think there is one available for the DR350 so I was wondering what was the best and least costly way to upgrade the stock front suspension (ie: new load rated springs, emulators or....?). I use the bike for pavement and some fire road riding, I"m 200lbs before gear.

Thanks in advance for helping this newb out.
I put new eiboch springs (bought through kientech) front and rear and it made a BIG difference. Less "float" feeling and sucks up bumps and ruts a lot better at anything over 25 mph than it did before. Call kientech and they'll ship you springs for your weight.
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Old 03-19-2012, 10:50 AM   #11303
tdrrally
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Location: doing hard time in charleston,wv
Oddometer: 3,330
any one here ever used a guts racing seat cover?
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Old 03-19-2012, 10:52 AM   #11304
jemigo
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Joined: May 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hajime View Post
Hello Gang,

The DR is a great bike and I'm having lots of fun with it . However it goes on reserve at about 96 miles - so I need a bigger tank and the wind is freezing on paved roads - so I would like to install a windshield. Here are a couple of questions.

Windshield:
I've been searching for a windshield. The Slip Stream Spitfire was recommended many pages back. This windshield is 17 1/4 inch wide X 15 " tall. That seems pretty big to me. If you are using one what are your experinces with it? Are there any other windshields I should consider?

Tank:
I have lowered the bike and put a corbin seat on to allow me to get my toes on the ground. I still have to be careful not to fall over when coming to a full stop (Especially if the trail is rocky and slanted and steep ). In this case which tank would be best, Clark or Acerbis?

By the way this is a great thread. You guys are so helpful.

THX
I got the acerbis tank and love it. I like that it came with petcocks and was an easy install.
I am also pondering windshield options and felt the same about the Spitfire.
Lowering: The kouba links i got from Jesse at Kientech made a 2" difference on mine.

Jeremy
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Old 03-19-2012, 12:17 PM   #11305
Pablo83
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Location: Woodland Park, CO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vagabond65 View Post
When I was installing the shock, the vent hose that goes up to the airbox(?) came free. I just routed it upwards as I couldn't see where it plugged in to.
If this is the crank breather hose then you now have an open hole in your intake boot that can allow dirt past the air filter and another hole into your crank case. The connection for it is on the rubber part of the intake boot just behind the shock on the right hand side.

Do you know what spring rate your rear shock has? I need a stiffer one for my bike.
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Old 03-19-2012, 01:19 PM   #11306
vagabond65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pablo83 View Post
If this is the crank breather hose then you now have an open hole in your intake boot that can allow dirt past the air filter and another hole into your crank case. The connection for it is on the rubber part of the intake boot just behind the shock on the right hand side.

Do you know what spring rate your rear shock has? I need a stiffer one for my bike.
Thanks for the help on that - I'll check that line out as well, but the one that's unplugged on mine runs from the right hand side of the carburator & up - the line people are using a T-vent on. It's still plugged into the carb but I don't know where it finishes.
The only thing I know about the spring is that it's from Progressive & rated for a 200 .lb rider Oh, and it's black .
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Old 03-19-2012, 01:37 PM   #11307
Pablo83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vagabond65 View Post
Thanks for the help on that - I'll check that line out as well, but the one that's unplugged on mine runs from the right hand side of the carburator & up - the line people are using a T-vent on. It's still plugged into the carb but I don't know where it finishes.
The only thing I know about the spring is that it's from Progressive & rated for a 200 .lb rider Oh, and it's black .
Oh, that one is supposed to be left open; it's as an atmospheric pressure reference.
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Old 03-19-2012, 02:36 PM   #11308
3uba296
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pavlos79 View Post
Well, here is how things went!
Saturday I finished doing the clutch maintenance job!
I filed down the notches from the fingers, I replaced the famous thrust washers
AND I installed the extra washer as mentioned above!
And it worked!!!
Yesterday I took it for an off road ride, quite hard for the bike, snow, trails, mud etc, and I am so impressed!
The shifting was smooth and neutral was so easy to find,
I do not know if and what will be the consequences in the long term.. I hope that there won't be any!
Since it was installed on the 250 for more than 2 years without any problems, I hope it won't create any at the 350 as well.
One thing I noticed is that the extra washer leaves a couple of less threads available for the clutch sleeve hub nut.
But I tightened it to the specific torque (60Nm) I locked it bending the lock washer, so I hope it will not create any problems!
Maybe it is early to call it a victory, but the initials results are encouraging!
I will let you know if something bad happens in the future!
Congrats! :)

Im not surprised you got the clearance needed with your special washer since I only put in a shim with less than 1/10 the thickness of your washer and it worked great for me to!
1.5mm of play is imo on the generous side, but cant really see the harm.. Go DR!
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3uba296 screwed with this post 03-19-2012 at 02:43 PM
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Old 03-20-2012, 12:45 PM   #11309
dtp
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Location: Turlock, California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3uba296 View Post
Congrats! :)

Im not surprised you got the clearance needed with your special washer since I only put in a shim with less than 1/10 the thickness of your washer and it worked great for me to!
1.5mm of play is imo on the generous side, but cant really see the harm.. Go DR!
So will adding a shim/washer work without having to shave down the clutch basket?
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Old 03-20-2012, 01:22 PM   #11310
Teeeeeemu
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Pissed Problems solved...

Checked the valves today, all of them had too big clearances so I put them within specs. Threadlocked the gear bolt now that I finally found the loctite. Bike seemed to only need oil and clutch adjustment.

Sidestand had broken so I had the dr leaning on a wall. I changed its place to leaning on a pole to have more space while doing the clutch cable. Went to grab a 10mm socket and when I got back the damn doctor had wedged itself between 2 poles ( they were like this l/. Throttle side handlebar in between those) and the throttle tube bracket thingy (where the cables and tube go) cracked completely

So now I need a new one of those Anyone have any tips for finding some replacement fast and not wait weeks for the stock. Or paying 50€ at the official dealer.

Now after reading this
http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/658...id-i-do-wrong/
Im not sure if I was on the correct stroke... If I was on the wrong one, HOW BIG would the clearances be? Many mm bigger or just a tiny tiny amount? Like I said, all gaps were bigger than what manual says. Intakes (carb side? think so) should be under 0.080mm and they were over 0.12
Exhausts should be 0.01 - 0.015 and they were over 0.02

So from that amount of adjusting (not over 1/2 turns), was I on the compression stroke?
"when you found TDC are you sure that it was on the compression stroke? that will make a BIG DIFFERENCE in the clearance."
That was on the thread and it got me thinking...
From about 0.12mm to under 0.08 isnt BIG imo.

Teeeeeemu screwed with this post 03-20-2012 at 02:49 PM
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