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Old 05-07-2012, 09:50 AM   #11791
devo2002
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Joined: Nov 2010
Location: Los Angeles
Oddometer: 3,659
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrpopgun View Post
Anybody have a good bottom end for sale? I'm looking for one.

If I can't find one at a good price, looks like I'll be parting out my 96 350se.
A few days ago a guy was selling two used dr350s for parts in the Albany ny Craigslist.
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Old 05-07-2012, 01:51 PM   #11792
Rex Nemo
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Joined: Nov 2008
Location: SF Bay
Oddometer: 306
Well, if I can't get my '92 DR350 S (street model) started, there may be some parts available soon.

I'm another inmate with a '92 kick-only, and I can't for the life of me get it started. I've had it for a little while, and had taken some time getting jetting help and a Dynojet kit installed by a good local mechanic. After some jetting fumbling, it ran ok. Then I took a trip to Alaska, life got chaotic, and the bike sat with Stabil in the tank for 10 months. No start since.

Things I've done:

  • Checked battery voltage, refreshed battery with Opti-mate charger
  • Changed oil
  • Changed gas
  • cleaned petcock
  • Cleaned carb (with generic shop solvent and compressed air)
  • Changed carb o-rings
  • Added fresh 37.5 pilot jet
  • Added fresh 140 main jet
  • verified float needle in good shape and float height ok
  • Set valve clearances properly
  • Changed spark plug (it was oily, perhaps from an oil overfill?)
  • Changed spark plug cap
  • Verified spark (mechanic friend saw spark when plug was grounded against an engine fin and bike kicked over)
  • Cleaned air filter
  • Leakdown test (5-10% leak through oil cap, not too bad)
  • Checked resistance of pickup coil; 213 ohms resistance, spec is 250 but mechanic friend with thumper experience claims that shouldn't be off enough to prevent starting
Still no love. Bike has Dynojet kit, stock carb, stock exhaust (though it wouldn't run with the aftermarket White Bros. exhaust in there either), and 3 1.5" holes drilled in the top of the airbox.

Got it bump-started today--once. Ran for 5 minutes and died, won't re-start.

Any ideas for further checks? The manual says that the pickup coil is an integral part of the stator, and the OEM replacement is $500 pricy. Should I be looking to eBay for a new stator/pickup coil, looking elsewhere, etc?


Thanks for the guidance, fellers.
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Rex Nemo screwed with this post 05-07-2012 at 02:44 PM
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Old 05-07-2012, 02:25 PM   #11793
trailhiker
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Joined: Aug 2011
Location: BRD
Oddometer: 55
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPulldown View Post
??? Explain
i stuck this bough behind the framerails this hold the chain in direction and also the pinion in place without any clip ,durabel for 100 kilometers than i stuck anotherone in,understand what i try to explain?
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Old 05-07-2012, 03:47 PM   #11794
MrPulldown
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Location: Truckee
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I actaully think I do understand.

This is regards to losing the cir-clip that holds on the front sproket on.

Jamm a stick between the frame rails so that it keeps the sprocket on. The chain will rub on the stick but it is good for a while.

Hope I never have to do this, but a good trick to remember.
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Old 05-07-2012, 04:06 PM   #11795
mrphotoman
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Joined: Feb 2011
Location: KBR27
Oddometer: 1,031
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rex Nemo View Post
Well, if I can't get my '92 DR350 S (street model) started, there may be some parts available soon.

I'm another inmate with a '92 kick-only, and I can't for the life of me get it started. I've had it for a little while, and had taken some time getting jetting help and a Dynojet kit installed by a good local mechanic. After some jetting fumbling, it ran ok. Then I took a trip to Alaska, life got chaotic, and the bike sat with Stabil in the tank for 10 months. No start since.

Things I've done:

  • Checked battery voltage, refreshed battery with Opti-mate charger
  • Changed oil
  • Changed gas
  • cleaned petcock
  • Cleaned carb (with generic shop solvent and compressed air)
  • Changed carb o-rings
  • Added fresh 37.5 pilot jet
  • Added fresh 140 main jet
  • verified float needle in good shape and float height ok
  • Set valve clearances properly
  • Changed spark plug (it was oily, perhaps from an oil overfill?)
  • Changed spark plug cap
  • Verified spark (mechanic friend saw spark when plug was grounded against an engine fin and bike kicked over)
  • Cleaned air filter
  • Leakdown test (5-10% leak through oil cap, not too bad)
  • Checked resistance of pickup coil; 213 ohms resistance, spec is 250 but mechanic friend with thumper experience claims that shouldn't be off enough to prevent starting
Still no love. Bike has Dynojet kit, stock carb, stock exhaust (though it wouldn't run with the aftermarket White Bros. exhaust in there either), and 3 1.5" holes drilled in the top of the airbox.

Got it bump-started today--once. Ran for 5 minutes and died, won't re-start.

Any ideas for further checks? The manual says that the pickup coil is an integral part of the stator, and the OEM replacement is $500 pricy. Should I be looking to eBay for a new stator/pickup coil, looking elsewhere, etc?


Thanks for the guidance, fellers.
sparkplugs are cheap, i would buy a new one and give it a shot
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Old 05-07-2012, 04:42 PM   #11796
Teeeeeemu
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Joined: Feb 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrphotoman View Post
sparkplugs are cheap, i would buy a new one and give it a shot
He changed already, or you mean another new? Does the bike start by push starting?
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Old 05-07-2012, 04:50 PM   #11797
Rex Nemo
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Location: SF Bay
Oddometer: 306
Another new plug is in there now.
It starts, with some difficulty, after push starting.
And exciting update: it starts after 30 priming kicks with the decomp lever in, then kicking through after finding TDC. Not 5, not 25...30.

Idles high and rough and hangs up briefly after rolling off the throttle, died a couple of times riding around my neighborhood, so I have some more jetting to do to stabilize 'er. But it's a relief simply to get it running.
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Old 05-07-2012, 06:54 PM   #11798
Lasherman
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Joined: Apr 2010
Location: Turlock, Ca
Oddometer: 199
Rebuild the carbs......seals leaking and sucking air?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rex Nemo View Post
Another new plug is in there now.
It starts, with some difficulty, after push starting.
And exciting update: it starts after 30 priming kicks with the decomp lever in, then kicking through after finding TDC. Not 5, not 25...30.

Idles high and rough and hangs up briefly after rolling off the throttle, died a couple of times riding around my neighborhood, so I have some more jetting to do to stabilize 'er. But it's a relief simply to get it running.
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Old 05-07-2012, 07:15 PM   #11799
O'Hooligan
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Joined: Nov 2003
Location: Sacramento, CA
Oddometer: 594
Does anyone have a recommendation for aftermarket front fender to replace the ugly stock one?
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Old 05-07-2012, 07:40 PM   #11800
Colbycheese
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Joined: May 2009
Location: Land of FOID
Oddometer: 101
Quote:
Originally Posted by O'Hooligan View Post
Does anyone have a recommendation for aftermarket front fender to replace the ugly stock one?

http://www.kientech.com/UFOFrontFender.htm
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Old 05-07-2012, 07:51 PM   #11801
jeep8
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Joined: Feb 2009
Location: Florence, Al
Oddometer: 272
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rex Nemo View Post
Well, if I can't get my '92 DR350 S (street model) started, there may be some parts available soon.

I'm another inmate with a '92 kick-only, and I can't for the life of me get it started. I've had it for a little while, and had taken some time getting jetting help and a Dynojet kit installed by a good local mechanic. After some jetting fumbling, it ran ok. Then I took a trip to Alaska, life got chaotic, and the bike sat with Stabil in the tank for 10 months. No start since.

Things I've done:

  • Checked battery voltage, refreshed battery with Opti-mate charger
  • Changed oil
  • Changed gas
  • cleaned petcock
  • Cleaned carb (with generic shop solvent and compressed air)
  • Changed carb o-rings
  • Added fresh 37.5 pilot jet
  • Added fresh 140 main jet
  • verified float needle in good shape and float height ok
  • Set valve clearances properly
  • Changed spark plug (it was oily, perhaps from an oil overfill?)
  • Changed spark plug cap
  • Verified spark (mechanic friend saw spark when plug was grounded against an engine fin and bike kicked over)
  • Cleaned air filter
  • Leakdown test (5-10% leak through oil cap, not too bad)
  • Checked resistance of pickup coil; 213 ohms resistance, spec is 250 but mechanic friend with thumper experience claims that shouldn't be off enough to prevent starting
Still no love. Bike has Dynojet kit, stock carb, stock exhaust (though it wouldn't run with the aftermarket White Bros. exhaust in there either), and 3 1.5" holes drilled in the top of the airbox.

Got it bump-started today--once. Ran for 5 minutes and died, won't re-start.

Any ideas for further checks? The manual says that the pickup coil is an integral part of the stator, and the OEM replacement is $500 pricy. Should I be looking to eBay for a new stator/pickup coil, looking elsewhere, etc?


Thanks for the guidance, fellers.
Have you replaced the vacuum petcock
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Old 05-07-2012, 09:32 PM   #11802
Rex Nemo
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Joined: Nov 2008
Location: SF Bay
Oddometer: 306
Yep, rebuilding the carbs might be the way to go--an air leak in there somewhere seems feasible. And I have the Clark big tank on there, with a Raptor petcock that I've verified flows fuel just fine. Rode around the 'hood a bit more, and it stopped dying, though still runs rough. I'm still just way pleased to have gotten it running at all.
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Old 05-07-2012, 09:36 PM   #11803
.tdc
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Joined: Apr 2012
Location: SF
Oddometer: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by Teeeeeemu View Post
Intake screws moved easily, even with fingers. BOTH exhaust screws seem to be completely stuck. While I screwed the nuts loose, the screws rotated with the nuts. So now the gap is over 1mm. Somehow I gotta get the screws loose, screws to correct clearance and nuts back on.
you need a set of tappet adjusters. - http://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-Tap.../dp/B000JP31T8
the nuts are only there to keep the tappets from moving once you have them set to the right gap. the tappet adjuster are two pieces, one's pretty much a specialized wrench to break loose the lock nut, the other is a square driver to turn the tappet itself.

there are surprising very few videos that show how to do a tappet style valve adjust online. i just spent like 15 min looking for a good one and didn't really come up with anything. hmm.
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Old 05-08-2012, 01:41 AM   #11804
Teeeeeemu
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Joined: Feb 2012
Location: Finland
Oddometer: 104
Pissed

Quote:
Originally Posted by .tdc View Post
you need a set of tappet adjusters. - http://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-Tap.../dp/B000JP31T8
the nuts are only there to keep the tappets from moving once you have them set to the right gap. the tappet adjuster are two pieces, one's pretty much a specialized wrench to break loose the lock nut, the other is a square driver to turn the tappet itself.

there are surprising very few videos that show how to do a tappet style valve adjust online. i just spent like 15 min looking for a good one and didn't really come up with anything. hmm.
I didnt need adjusters for intake valves, I rotated the square and held it still while tightening with a small spanner while I tightened the nut. Dont really need any scientific guide for that, tho I asked for help here

My problem became the exhaust side clearances. I got the the right side screw (tappet) to move freely and adjusted it properly, holding with the spanner while tightening the nut. 3/4 done

Oh and the lock nuts came out easily with an 8mm ring spanner

Left side tappet/screw was and is completely stuck. While I unscrewed the nut the tappet came out with it too (not all the way, just so the clearance is huge) Managed to screw up (heh) the threads from the nut too. Now I need some big ass tools to get the tappet out and order a new one with a nut. Freaking 16 for one.
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Old 05-08-2012, 03:49 AM   #11805
cwc
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Joined: Jan 2005
Location: anywhere
Oddometer: 893
Quote:
Originally Posted by Teeeeeemu View Post
I didnt need adjusters for intake valves, I rotated the square and held it still while tightening with a small spanner while I tightened the nut. Dont really need any scientific guide for that, tho I asked for help here
If you have access to deck screws you can make a tool like this.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...l#post15551028
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