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Old 05-13-2012, 05:12 AM   #11836
Chicken Helmet
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Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Jacksonville Fl
Oddometer: 4,747
Bike looks good. I gotta get me one of those headlight assemblies.
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1988 KLR 650 Bare frame,swing arm & title For Sale PM for Details 2009 KLR 650 1994 DR 350
Quote:
Originally Posted by WaterWheel View Post
From what I've heard, riding a DR feels just like riding a KLR except you're head doesn't sway left and right constantly scanning the ditches for aluminum cans.
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Old 05-13-2012, 02:05 PM   #11837
Teeeeeemu
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Any sideshots from the tank graphics? Where you got? How much?
I hdont like my white big ass tank on an otherwise black bike :(
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Old 05-13-2012, 02:21 PM   #11838
mrphotoman
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Location: KBR27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teeeeeemu View Post
Any sideshots from the tank graphics? Where you got? How much?
I hdont like my white big ass tank on an otherwise black bike :(
The graphics were $39 shipped on ebay.







The headlight assembly was $59 shipped,
The fender was $23 shipped

I still have tons of decals left over, one is precut for the rear fender but I have been too lazy to put it on. The decals were for a rmz250 but all i cared about was the color and price lol

http://www.ebay.com/itm/280706897881...#ht_1239wt_905
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Old 05-13-2012, 02:53 PM   #11839
Teeeeeemu
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I got rmz plastics on my dr, except tank. Pic a couple pages back. No wonder the texts looked so weird when you have them like that
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Old 05-13-2012, 03:35 PM   #11840
FlyingWman
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KTM front fender and chopped KTM rear fender. Still needs a little tweaking .

I may have a supplier for tank decals soon... still very early in the works though, its my buddy who's got a decal/wrap operation...
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Old 05-14-2012, 01:39 PM   #11841
Klay
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Location: right here on my thermarest
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I've got an NGK CR9EK for a spark plug I've been running. Has anybody run a spark plug that is a step hotter? Would that be a CR8? Which way is hotter?
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Old 05-14-2012, 03:23 PM   #11842
Teeeeeemu
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Originally Posted by Klay View Post
I've got an NGK CR9EK for a spark plug I've been running. Has anybody run a spark plug that is a step hotter? Would that be a CR8? Which way is hotter?
Thats what I thought too and just checked NGks site and bigger number means colder. So 8 is hotter. Dont know how it affects the engine. I remember reading from the dr350 manual something about different heat plugs but cant remember what it was. I think it mentioned the 8. Switch to hotter plug if/when something. Try checking the manual if you bother, I dont.
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Old 05-14-2012, 06:01 PM   #11843
EastBoundAndDown
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Location: Newburgh, NY
Oddometer: 548
Hows this. The DR350 I picked up runs great. 6K street miles, good power, good mpg, smoth runningh and idle, easy starting cold or hot.

Smokes when I first fire it up. Only for 5 seconds or so, but nothing else I own smoke like this. Is this any concern?
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Old 05-14-2012, 08:30 PM   #11844
slartidbartfast
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Location: Southern Louisiana or Southern England or ...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EastBoundAndDown View Post
Hows this. The DR350 I picked up runs great. 6K street miles, good power, good mpg, smoth runningh and idle, easy starting cold or hot.

Smokes when I first fire it up. Only for 5 seconds or so, but nothing else I own smoke like this. Is this any concern?
They generally aren't known for smoking, so something's wrong. If it runs ok and isn't fouling plugs, however, its probably acceptable
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Old 05-14-2012, 08:42 PM   #11845
tkent02
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Location: Littleton, CO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EastBoundAndDown View Post

Smokes when I first fire it up. Only for 5 seconds or so, but nothing else I own smoke like this. Is this any concern?
Likely the valve stem seals are hardened, and no longer sealing well. Common on old bikes that have sat idle for years. When the engine is shut off, oil seeps down the valve stem and builds up in the intake port, when you fire it up the oil goes into the combustion chamber and burns. It won't smoke once it's running because it seeps really slowly, not enough at once to see any smoke unless the seals have completely failed. No real concern, it will just smoke for a few seconds on startup until the seals get used to running and soften up a little. Or they may fail completely and turn into a real cloud mobile. It's fairly easy to change seals on a thumper if/when the time comes...
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Old 05-15-2012, 03:20 PM   #11846
saddlsor
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Location: Indiana
Oddometer: 335
hey all, I'm looking for a set of stock fork springs for a 99 dr350se. I know a lot of people change them for firmer springs so hopefully someone has kept their old ones and is willing to sell them. shoot me a pm if you have some.......thanks


edit...the 98 and 99 forks appear to be the same but have different part numbers for the springs. is it because they have different spring rates and if so is there a way to find out which year would have the softer springs as that's what I want.......thanks for any info
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saddlsor screwed with this post 05-16-2012 at 10:40 AM
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Old 05-16-2012, 08:31 AM   #11847
juda5
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Location: Rhode Island
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrpopgun View Post
So looking at the fiche and cross-model part lookup based on a '96 350se, it appears that on the DR's, it's the same crank for every single bike, all years. Is that true? Kick vs electric? Dirt vs Street?

Edit: One other question
I found a local '92 dirt model bike for a good deal. Are the engine cases interchangeable between the older kick model and my newer electric model? I know I'd have to move over the stator and such, but not sure the cases are the same. What about the starter? If I just I just installed the whole dirt motor, could I get the lights to work for street use?
The cranks would be the same, as the e-start drives the stator rotor.

The left side case is different, as is the stator cover.

There is also a mount point for the starter on rear of the cylinder of the e-starts.

If you swap the stator from the e-start into the dirt motor, you will be able to power your e-start wiring harness.
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Old 05-16-2012, 11:33 AM   #11848
TheOtherBart
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Location: DeKalb County, Illinois
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Cam chain replacement

I've never done a cam chain replacement, and I can't find any straightforward instructions in the service manual or anywhere else. If I want to replace the chain without completely tearing down the motor I'm imagining the process will be something like:

  1. Remove the cam chain tensioner
  2. Remove right side cover and clutch basket
  3. Remove cam cover
  4. Line everything up so I won't screw up the timing when I put this back together
  5. Remove the sprocket from the cam
  6. Fish the chain off the lower sprocket and pull it up out of the top end
  7. Installation is reverse of removal
Parts-wise I'd need the chain and two gaskets. Am I anywhere close to right on how I'm thinking about this?
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Old 05-16-2012, 11:37 AM   #11849
MrPulldown
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I have never done this job either but would think that you need new slider thingyies that put the tension on the chain.
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Old 05-16-2012, 01:57 PM   #11850
saddlsor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheOtherBart View Post
I've never done a cam chain replacement, and I can't find any straightforward instructions in the service manual or anywhere else. If I want to replace the chain without completely tearing down the motor I'm imagining the process will be something like:

  1. Remove the cam chain tensioner
  2. Remove right side cover and clutch basket
  3. Remove cam cover
  4. Line everything up so I won't screw up the timing when I put this back together
  5. Remove the sprocket from the cam
  6. Fish the chain off the lower sprocket and pull it up out of the top end
  7. Installation is reverse of removal
Parts-wise I'd need the chain and two gaskets. Am I anywhere close to right on how I'm thinking about this?
that's it mostly, but you also have to remove the oil pump sprocket as it blocks the chain from coming off around the crank gear, no biggie, jusy one extra step. overall pretty easy, just don't do what I did and break a tooth off the oil pump sprocket while trying to hold the clutch basket from turning when you tighten the nut. also check the washers on both sides of the clutch basket while your in there, if their worn it will create drag and make it harder to find neutral.
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