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Old 05-16-2012, 06:21 PM   #11851
mustangwagz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tkent02 View Post
Likely the valve stem seals are hardened, and no longer sealing well. Common on old bikes that have sat idle for years. When the engine is shut off, oil seeps down the valve stem and builds up in the intake port, when you fire it up the oil goes into the combustion chamber and burns. It won't smoke once it's running because it seeps really slowly, not enough at once to see any smoke unless the seals have completely failed. No real concern, it will just smoke for a few seconds on startup until the seals get used to running and soften up a little. Or they may fail completely and turn into a real cloud mobile. It's fairly easy to change seals on a thumper if/when the time comes...
Mine does this as well. usually gotta add a little oil about once a week if i ride it daily. If it sits for a while, it smokes a little more excessive at start up. probably cuz MORE oil has had the chance to seep into cylinder i'd say. Maybe this coming winter ill tear it all down.

any good threads on how to replace them on the 350's?
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Old 05-17-2012, 09:44 AM   #11852
MrPulldown
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What is up with the thrust washer.

I have a little bit fo clutch drag. I can find nuetral still. But if I start the bike in gear with the cluthc pulled in, it will lurch a little bit. My clutch is grabbing fine, but I figure I should pull off the cover and check things out before a long trip out to the deseert in a few weeks. I have a clutch cover gasket already. Maybe I should change out some other consumables like teh thrust washer. Where are poeple getting theirs. Is is worth shimming out the washer with a very thin one like some inmate a couple months ago suggested?
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Old 05-17-2012, 09:49 AM   #11853
Rode2Nowhere
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPulldown View Post
Where are poeple getting theirs.
ronayers.com for just about everything, although shipping may make small orders not cost-effective.
Quote:
Is is worth shimming out the washer with a very thin one like some inmate a couple months ago suggested?
I second that.
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Old 05-17-2012, 09:56 AM   #11854
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http://www.ronayers.com/Fiche/TypeID...2/Group/CLUTCH

Part number "2"
PN# 08211-20363

Rode2NoWhere-ARe you asking the same question about the shim? Or 2nding the shimming suggestion.
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Old 05-17-2012, 12:19 PM   #11855
Rode2Nowhere
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPulldown View Post
http://www.ronayers.com/Fiche/TypeID...2/Group/CLUTCH

Part number "2"
PN# 08211-20363

Rode2NoWhere-ARe you asking the same question about the shim? Or 2nding the shimming suggestion.
Same question about the shim. I'm pretty good at hand-milling things (like sanding the clutch basket) , but all the same, I like the washer option if it gives the same effect. Less permanent, in case I screw it up.
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Old 05-17-2012, 01:14 PM   #11856
TheOtherBart
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPulldown View Post
I have never done this job either but would think that you need new slider thingyies that put the tension on the chain.
What's the consensus on this, something that should be done with the chain? Can they be replaced without a teardown? It looks like the tensioner-side guide is held in with a single bolt at the top, is it accessible with the cam cover removed? There's no indication at all on the parts diagram how the guide on the opposite side is held.
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Old 05-17-2012, 02:14 PM   #11857
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheOtherBart View Post
What's the consensus on this, something that should be done with the chain? Can they be replaced without a teardown? It looks like the tensioner-side guide is held in with a single bolt at the top, is it accessible with the cam cover removed? There's no indication at all on the parts diagram how the guide on the opposite side is held.
The cam chain guide on the tensioner side can be removed by taking that one bolt off and removing the cam cover. To remove the other one you have to take the head off and then you can pull it right out if i remember correctly. Do you have the manual? I'm pretty sure the manual explains the whole process, I have a copy on a flash drive somewhere but can't seem to find it currently.
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Old 05-17-2012, 02:24 PM   #11858
TheOtherBart
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jplum1556 View Post
The cam chain guide on the tensioner side can be removed by taking that one bolt off and removing the cam cover. To remove the other one you have to take the head off and then you can pull it right out if i remember correctly. Do you have the manual? I'm pretty sure the manual explains the whole process, I have a copy on a flash drive somewhere but can't seem to find it currently.
I do have the manual, but it walks through a complete engine teardown, no real indication of how far you have to go for a partial R&R like this. And in the disassembly instructions it only mentions one guide, no word at all about the other.
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Old 05-17-2012, 04:46 PM   #11859
Hotmamaandme
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New guy question

What size nut on the rear wheel so I can pull it on the trial? I'm thinking about one of those tire iron wrech combos.
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Old 05-17-2012, 09:28 PM   #11860
jessepitt
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The wife and I went camping last weekend. We took bikes and did some nice riding. The weather was great.






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Old 05-18-2012, 11:16 AM   #11861
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Originally Posted by Hotmamaandme View Post
New guy question

What size nut on the rear wheel so I can pull it on the trial? I'm thinking about one of those tire iron wrech combos.
24mm
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Old 05-18-2012, 11:45 AM   #11862
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Quote:
Originally Posted by straight cut View Post
24mm

Thanks
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Old 05-18-2012, 04:06 PM   #11863
devo2002
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Noob with a sticky throttle

I've had my dr for about a month or two now, but on Monday the throttle decided it was going to stick. I tried to investigate but only made it worse...

I took out the two screws by the throttle handle and opened up the mechanism, seemed to be clean but I cleaned it again anyway. I disconnected the cable from the carb and the butterfly valve snaps right back so that isn't the problem.

I loosened the locknut on the throttle cable adjuster and thinking maybe it needed tightened or something but that didn't do anything. I reconnected all the cables and put the cover back on by the throttle and now the throttle turns about 1/3 of the way and it isn't giving any gas.

It is my commuter so dear god please give me suggestions...it's a 99 with 7.5K on the clock. Remember I'm a noob so please be gentle.
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Old 05-18-2012, 05:09 PM   #11864
Tukata
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Don't forget to check at the carb for grit and such.
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Old 05-18-2012, 05:49 PM   #11865
mustangwagz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by devo2002 View Post
I've had my dr for about a month or two now, but on Monday the throttle decided it was going to stick. I tried to investigate but only made it worse...

I took out the two screws by the throttle handle and opened up the mechanism, seemed to be clean but I cleaned it again anyway. I disconnected the cable from the carb and the butterfly valve snaps right back so that isn't the problem.

I loosened the locknut on the throttle cable adjuster and thinking maybe it needed tightened or something but that didn't do anything. I reconnected all the cables and put the cover back on by the throttle and now the throttle turns about 1/3 of the way and it isn't giving any gas.

It is my commuter so dear god please give me suggestions...it's a 99 with 7.5K on the clock. Remember I'm a noob so please be gentle.
id suspect your cables on this..however dirt in the throttle tube on your handle bars COULD be a problem as well. i'd unhook cables from the throttle tube and carb, and see if they slide easily. if not, then replace. they could also be in a bind somewhere, causing them to hang up.
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