DR350 Thread

[mustangwagz]

Originally Posted by tkent02

Likely the valve stem seals are hardened, and no longer sealing well. Common on old bikes that have sat idle for years. When the engine is shut off, oil seeps down the valve stem and builds up in the intake port, when you fire it up the oil goes into the combustion chamber and burns. It won't smoke once it's running because it seeps really slowly, not enough at once to see any smoke unless the seals have completely failed. No real concern, it will just smoke for a few seconds on startup until the seals get used to running and soften up a little. Or they may fail completely and turn into a real cloud mobile. It's fairly easy to change seals on a thumper if/when the time comes...

Mine does this as well. usually gotta add a little oil about once a week if i ride it daily. If it sits for a while, it smokes a little more excessive at start up. probably cuz MORE oil has had the chance to seep into cylinder i'd say. Maybe this coming winter ill tear it all down.

any good threads on how to replace them on the 350's?

[MrPulldown]

I have a little bit fo clutch drag. I can find nuetral still. But if I start the bike in gear with the cluthc pulled in, it will lurch a little bit. My clutch is grabbing fine, but I figure I should pull off the cover and check things out before a long trip out to the deseert in a few weeks. I have a clutch cover gasket already. Maybe I should change out some other consumables like teh thrust washer. Where are poeple getting theirs. Is is worth shimming out the washer with a very thin one like some inmate a couple months ago suggested?

[Rode2Nowhere]

Originally Posted by MrPulldown

Where are poeple getting theirs.

ronayers.com for just about everything, although shipping may make small orders not cost-effective.

Is is worth shimming out the washer with a very thin one like some inmate a couple months ago suggested?

I second that.

[MrPulldown]

http://www.ronayers.com/Fiche/TypeID...2/Group/CLUTCH

Part number "2"
PN# 08211-20363

Rode2NoWhere-ARe you asking the same question about the shim? Or 2nding the shimming suggestion.

[Rode2Nowhere]

Originally Posted by MrPulldown

http://www.ronayers.com/Fiche/TypeID...2/Group/CLUTCH

Part number "2"
PN# 08211-20363

Rode2NoWhere-ARe you asking the same question about the shim? Or 2nding the shimming suggestion.

Same question about the shim. I'm pretty good at hand-milling things (like sanding the clutch basket) , but all the same, I like the washer option if it gives the same effect. Less permanent, in case I screw it up.

[TheOtherBart]

Originally Posted by MrPulldown

I have never done this job either but would think that you need new slider thingyies that put the tension on the chain.

What's the consensus on this, something that should be done with the chain? Can they be replaced without a teardown? It looks like the tensioner-side guide is held in with a single bolt at the top, is it accessible with the cam cover removed? There's no indication at all on the parts diagram how the guide on the opposite side is held.

[jplum1556]

Originally Posted by TheOtherBart

What's the consensus on this, something that should be done with the chain? Can they be replaced without a teardown? It looks like the tensioner-side guide is held in with a single bolt at the top, is it accessible with the cam cover removed? There's no indication at all on the parts diagram how the guide on the opposite side is held.

The cam chain guide on the tensioner side can be removed by taking that one bolt off and removing the cam cover. To remove the other one you have to take the head off and then you can pull it right out if i remember correctly. Do you have the manual? I'm pretty sure the manual explains the whole process, I have a copy on a flash drive somewhere but can't seem to find it currently.

[TheOtherBart]

Originally Posted by jplum1556

The cam chain guide on the tensioner side can be removed by taking that one bolt off and removing the cam cover. To remove the other one you have to take the head off and then you can pull it right out if i remember correctly. Do you have the manual? I'm pretty sure the manual explains the whole process, I have a copy on a flash drive somewhere but can't seem to find it currently.

I do have the manual, but it walks through a complete engine teardown, no real indication of how far you have to go for a partial R&R like this. And in the disassembly instructions it only mentions one guide, no word at all about the other.

[Hotmamaandme]

New guy question

What size nut on the rear wheel so I can pull it on the trial? I'm thinking about one of those tire iron wrech combos.

[jessepitt]

The wife and I went camping last weekend. We took bikes and did some nice riding. The weather was great.

[straight cut]

Originally Posted by Hotmamaandme

New guy question

What size nut on the rear wheel so I can pull it on the trial? I'm thinking about one of those tire iron wrech combos.

24mm

[Hotmamaandme]

Originally Posted by straight cut

24mm

Thanks

[devo2002]

I've had my dr for about a month or two now, but on Monday the throttle decided it was going to stick. I tried to investigate but only made it worse...

I took out the two screws by the throttle handle and opened up the mechanism, seemed to be clean but I cleaned it again anyway. I disconnected the cable from the carb and the butterfly valve snaps right back so that isn't the problem.

I loosened the locknut on the throttle cable adjuster and thinking maybe it needed tightened or something but that didn't do anything. I reconnected all the cables and put the cover back on by the throttle and now the throttle turns about 1/3 of the way and it isn't giving any gas.

It is my commuter so dear god please give me suggestions...it's a 99 with 7.5K on the clock. Remember I'm a noob so please be gentle.

[Tukata]

Don't forget to check at the carb for grit and such.

[mustangwagz]

Originally Posted by devo2002

I've had my dr for about a month or two now, but on Monday the throttle decided it was going to stick. I tried to investigate but only made it worse...

I took out the two screws by the throttle handle and opened up the mechanism, seemed to be clean but I cleaned it again anyway. I disconnected the cable from the carb and the butterfly valve snaps right back so that isn't the problem.

I loosened the locknut on the throttle cable adjuster and thinking maybe it needed tightened or something but that didn't do anything. I reconnected all the cables and put the cover back on by the throttle and now the throttle turns about 1/3 of the way and it isn't giving any gas.

It is my commuter so dear god please give me suggestions...it's a 99 with 7.5K on the clock. Remember I'm a noob so please be gentle.

id suspect your cables on this..however dirt in the throttle tube on your handle bars COULD be a problem as well. i'd unhook cables from the throttle tube and carb, and see if they slide easily. if not, then replace. they could also be in a bind somewhere, causing them to hang up.