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Old 05-24-2012, 03:08 PM   #11956
MeterPig
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Joined: Jul 2007
Location: Parker, Colorado...
Oddometer: 17,095
Quote:
Originally Posted by shearboy2004 View Post
Don't run it in on the side stand , get it moving , these are air cooled engines and require air flow to get rid of heat .
Take it for a good ride varying the throttle position and revs , you will love the 440 .

Of course you have checked the oil level?
When I had an air cooled motor in the past, I positioned an old box fan between the tire and the motor on high when idling.
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Old 05-24-2012, 03:18 PM   #11957
jplum1556
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shearboy2004 View Post
It will take a little while to run in so i wouldn't worry too much about the heat .

All the same how long did it take to heat up ? Was this after a ride or just from idling ?
Don't run it in on the side stand , get it moving , these are air cooled engines and require air flow to get rid of heat .
Take it for a good ride varying the throttle position and revs , you will love the 440 .

Of course you have checked the oil level?
It was idling in the garage,no wind and on the side stand for 7 minutes or so. Haven't ridden it yet, I'll probably be giggling like a school girl when i take it out for the first time. I noticed in your sig. you have a dr450, are you running an oil cooler on that?

Tomorrow when i do some more carb tuning on it i'll have to setup a box fan.
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Old 05-24-2012, 07:05 PM   #11958
shearboy2004
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Location: Ft Collins ,Colorado
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No Mate I have never run a cooler on my DR ,I have had it really frigging hot sometimes on nasty single track but it doesn't seem to worry it much.
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Old 05-24-2012, 08:00 PM   #11959
Rich667
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Location: Dauphin, PA
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Hey fellas, I believe im having issues with my charging system on my 91dr 350s. I just recently put all the signals, brake light, horn etc. back on to get it road worthy but keep burning up bulbs( 2 or 3 tail light and a brand new headlight). For a little while I ran it with no battery, then went to a capacitor and now a small battery to get the signals to flash and horn to work. It works fine but wont keep the battery fully charged. all the lights work and the headlight is bright as hell when its running but as soon as you kill the motor the light goes very dim. It worked fine for a couple days but It just burnt the tail light out again. I dont know if the regulator is bad (maybe from not running a battery) or my stator is bad and possibly ruined the regulator too?
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Old 05-24-2012, 09:09 PM   #11960
dbarale
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Location: Western NC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich667 View Post
Hey fellas, I believe im having issues with my charging system on my 91dr 350s. I just recently put all the signals, brake light, horn etc. back on to get it road worthy but keep burning up bulbs( 2 or 3 tail light and a brand new headlight). For a little while I ran it with no battery, then went to a capacitor and now a small battery to get the signals to flash and horn to work. It works fine but wont keep the battery fully charged. all the lights work and the headlight is bright as hell when its running but as soon as you kill the motor the light goes very dim. It worked fine for a couple days but It just burnt the tail light out again. I dont know if the regulator is bad (maybe from not running a battery) or my stator is bad and possibly ruined the regulator too?
Sounds like the regulator is fried. Did you check the charging voltage at idle and around 5000rpm?
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Old 05-24-2012, 10:11 PM   #11961
Rich667
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbarale View Post
Sounds like the regulator is fried. Did you check the charging voltage at idle and around 5000rpm?
I hooked up a voltmeter to the leads without the battery and got around 6 volts or so across the rev range with a fluctuation of a volt or two here and there. With the charged battery hooked up I was getting 13 to say 13.5. I have another regulator but i think the results were pretty much the same. Im not sure on the condition of that regulator though as it came off a parts bike.

I have a manual for it and I read the testing procedure but I have some cheapy harbor freight multimeter that 1. im not sure how accurate it is for that sort of thing and 2. i have never really used it to test ohms and am not 100 percent sure on what im doing.
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Old 05-24-2012, 10:46 PM   #11962
MeterPig
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Location: Parker, Colorado...
Oddometer: 17,095
Hey all, am I measuring this right? Is the top clamp for HDB guards measured at 106/33 with a 35mm bolt pattern?

Thanks.
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Old 05-25-2012, 05:25 AM   #11963
PostIt
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Location: Chester County, PA
Oddometer: 302
Can anyone recommend a good source for parts? The only issue I have with the bike I just bought is the white case of the instrument cluster is cracked off of two mounting points from the previous owners trail adventures, and the clip that holds the trip cable to the front for is busted.. I hope to but two new ones. Any help is appreciated! Thank you!
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Old 05-25-2012, 05:35 AM   #11964
GaThumper
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Joined: Jun 2006
Location: Thumpin' in North GA - headin' for the Smokys
Oddometer: 509
Quote:
Originally Posted by Teeeeeemu View Post
So I got the screw out after removing the cam cover (head?) and rotating it with locking pliers 1/6 turn at a time...
I ordered a new screw a week ago and heard they had to order it from Japan so 1-2 weeks MORE. Then asked a friend who is almost motorcycle mechanic and he told many bikes have exact same screws. So I grabbed one from a cousin's chinese monkey bike. Only difference was that the nut was 9mm instead of 8. You can see the screwed up screw in the bottom left. Rocker arm threads were fine.

When I took the cam cover off I saw there was plenty of some red sealant around it. So much it was pushed out and INSIDE the cover. It was still there so atleast it hadnt gone and fked up th engine. Somebody had put a little too much dont you think?

For some reason the pic didnt resize in imgur nor when I tried while writing this message. Heres the link http://i.imgur.com/sboij.jpg?1?3242

Now what kind of mayonnaise should I put on there when I reinstall it hopefully tomorrow?
Do I wipe it with credit card etc. or just squeeze the coverin place and let it spread where it wants? There was some discussion about the amount some pages back, iirc there should be way less than in that pic.

The bike's been sitting for like a month and now I find a fix from a crappy piece of chinese junk

Hopefully a PROPER valve adjustment will also make the bike easier to start cold and especially hot (was almost impossible)

Also I got a homemade capacitor setup going in some day to fix the dimming lights and possibly get the bike idling?

Then the last "big" problem is the dragging clutch. I got new thrust washers so it could ONLY be:
-oil(it was some basic 10w-40, not mc oil)
-worn plates,
-clutch clearance or
-the cable. Most likely not. If I adjust it so it doesnt drag, it will slip. And when clutch slips it means worn plates right?


Only for pros The PO said the PO had installed some performance cams (in finnish they are steeper, whatever, gives more power ) along with the pumper and removing the extra weight. The cams themselves didnt have any text or anything, and I didnt remove the whole shaft anyway so can you tell from this pic http://i.imgur.com/xsPDD.jpg if they are or are not stock?

The dragging clutch is a pretty common problem with the mostly bulletproof DR350. Since you already replaced the thrust washers, you'll most likely need to take a little off the back of the clutch basket to have enough clearance that the clutch will not drag, especially when it's hot. It will just get worse if you don't take care of it. Google "DR350 Clutch Clearance" or "DR350 clutch drag" or DR350 Clutch problems" and you will find PLENTY of reading material. Replacing the thrust washers can sometimes work for a little while, but the cause is most likely insufficient clearance in the clutch pack. This is generally remedied by taking off a few thousands from the back side of the basket. You can measure and do a precision job, or just take a little off and try it, but don't take too mutch off. Recently on this thread there has been discussion about ADDING" a washer to solve the problem. I don't have any more info on that for you.

There is a GREAT writeup on Maximum Suzuki in the DR/DRZ archives. If you're not a member there already, you'll want to join. It's a great resource for all things DR350.

While you're at it, you'll want to check the also infamous "shift drum bolt" and make sure it's tight! This recently caused a bent shift fork for my riding buddy that could have been prevented by checking the shift drum bolt.

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Old 05-25-2012, 08:21 AM   #11965
Bowtie76
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So can you swap/interchange the CV carbs of a 95 Dr350 and a 95 Dr250. I did an engine swap and swapped the carbs but I has Jesse's carb kit in the 250 carb (that carb is in much better shape) so I would like to put it on the 350 instead.

Any opinions, Jesse's kit is the same for the 250 and 350, I just want to know if the bodies (internal passages) are different between the two.
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Old 05-25-2012, 08:59 AM   #11966
PostIt
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Location: Chester County, PA
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Does anyone know where I can buy a replacement instrument cluster or just the back piece? The previous owner cracked the assembly off the base.. Also, there is a random +/- plug under the light guard which I cannot figure out what it is used for.. It is part of the factory harness. Any help is appreciated!
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Old 05-25-2012, 09:12 AM   #11967
qrider
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Location: Land O' Lakes, FL.
Oddometer: 29
Too much oil

Hey Guy's I can really use some impute on this one. I have had my DR for a short time (2 months) I never seem to get a good reading on the oil dipstick, reads like it's dry. So I decided to do and oil/filter change and run synthetic while I was add it. My mistake was not reading up on the way you check the oil on these bikes. I realize it say's 1700 ml on the side of the frame but I kept adding oil until it came up to the bottom of the dipstick (not a good move) I realize now. Put in 3.5 qts. that's when I got a reading on the bottom of the dipstick...just could not figure were it was all going. When I started it up it ran great for 30 sec. or so then a cloud of smoke filled my garage fast. It just started smoking real bad, I shut her down quickly. I drained the oil out the bottom of the down-tube and letting her sit overnight before starting it again. Did I just blow up my motor? I'm not too happy right now as you can Imagine. Will running it again with very low oil level get rid of the oil in the head?

I hope so !!!

Thanks,
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Old 05-25-2012, 09:26 AM   #11968
_CJ
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Location: The 719, Yo.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by qrider View Post
Hey Guy's I can really use some impute on this one. I have had my DR for a short time (2 months) I never seem to get a good reading on the oil dipstick, reads like it's dry. So I decided to do and oil/filter change and run synthetic while I was add it. My mistake was not reading up on the way you check the oil on these bikes. I realize it say's 1700 ml on the side of the frame but I kept adding oil until it came up to the bottom of the dipstick (not a good move) I realize now. Put in 3.5 qts. that's when I got a reading on the bottom of the dipstick...just could not figure were it was all going. When I started it up it ran great for 30 sec. or so then a cloud of smoke filled my garage fast. It just started smoking real bad, I shut her down quickly. I drained the oil out the bottom of the down-tube and letting her sit overnight before starting it again. Did I just blow up my motor? I'm not too happy right now as you can Imagine. Will running it again with very low oil level get rid of the oil in the head?

I hope so !!!

Thanks,
I overfilled the oil when I first got mine too. Never had the "big cloud" experience though. Drained about five quarts out of it and refilled with the ~1.8 quarts as specified and haven't had a problem since.

The cloud is concerning. Might have just pushed past the rings from the bottom due to being overfilled. Might have caused major damage. I would drain the engine and frame, refill with 1.8 quarts, fire it up and see what happens. Maybe it'll clean up, maybe it'll seize up.

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Old 05-25-2012, 09:29 AM   #11969
Chicken Helmet
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Location: Jacksonville Fl
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It won't seize up. Push it outside though when you start it and let it run a few minutes after re-filling the proper amount. There may be some residual oil that will burn off so don't be immediately concerned. You may also have to replace the spark plug if it gets fouled. Shouldn't be any permanant damage if it wasn't running long.
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From what I've heard, riding a DR feels just like riding a KLR except you're head doesn't sway left and right constantly scanning the ditches for aluminum cans.
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Old 05-25-2012, 09:59 AM   #11970
straight cut
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Drain down refil engine with the correct volume of oil
Oil change only 1700ml / 1.8qt
Filter change 1900ml /2.0qt
Rrun engine at tickover for 3minutes at least then turn the engine off and wait 1minute then check level
You may need to clean out the bottom of your air box incase any oils been blown up thebreather pipe
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