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Old 06-17-2012, 07:15 AM   #12226
mustangwagz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by devo2002 View Post
Hmm, everyone seems to be getting 7-10 mph better than me at 6K. It's either my anemic stock bike or the carb's are a little more gummed up than I thought, since I got it in March I was just gonna suck it up for the season and give it a good cleaning over winter.
well, if it helps, i weigh about 170 with steel toes on? lol The guys i ride with were blown away the first time we went on a long road trip with my bike. "hightest" has a vstrom and our other friend has a really nice BMW Dualsport and they both were amazed at my ability to cruise down Interstate 80 with little problems. other than turbulance from low flying planes and other vehicles, its pretty stable. lol
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Old 06-17-2012, 07:17 AM   #12227
kobukan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by devo2002 View Post
Hmm, everyone seems to be getting 7-10 mph better than me at 6K. It's either my anemic stock bike or the carb's are a little more gummed up than I thought, since I got it in March I was just gonna suck it up for the season and give it a good cleaning over winter.
Gearing determines what speed the bike is moving at any given rpm - doesn't have anything to do with how well it runs.
Here's a good tool for gearing decisions. It shows that 16/41 at 6k rpm's would be 68 mph, which sounds about right to me.
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Old 06-17-2012, 05:27 PM   #12228
MeterPig
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Just got the 16 tooth sprocket on the bike which took all of 10 minutes. All I can say is wow. Finally the bike feels less twitchy and a bit more throaty. Now instead of shifting to me what seemed all the time, I can hold the bike in a gear much longer and actually stay out of 6th gear on the side streets and main roads. 6th gear now has an intended purpose-highways. The bike easily cruises at 75 now without wheezing and that is at 6600 feet elevation. I had no problems climbing the same hills or crawling along.

Honestly, this is the sprocket combo that the DR350se should have shipped with. Of course, the sprocket barely fits in the front which would make a few engineers squeamish. It does not bother me to run without a front guard. I ran dirtbikes for years without one and on this bike my foot is moving around a lot less on the road.

If you are on the edge of getting the sprocket-do it. I don't think you will regret it.

There is one down side...I actually have to think about what gear the bike is in now. In the past, as long as it was not sixth, could just cruise.

So there you go.

75 mph-6k. Kenda 270s.
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Old 06-17-2012, 06:54 PM   #12229
mrphotoman
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I dont know why you guys want the dr geared so high. i run 13/49 on mine and still think it is a little high. it does fine on the road but it is still not quite low enough for the trails.
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Old 06-17-2012, 07:05 PM   #12230
slartidbartfast
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrphotoman View Post
I dont know why you guys want the dr geared so high. i run 13/49 on mine and still think it is a little high. it does fine on the road but it is still not quite low enough for the trails.
Seems to me that unless you ride in 1st gear a lot of the time, you can just select a lower gear as required. OTOH, if you're cruising at 70, gearing can have a huge impact on how the bike feels. Just changing the front sprocket is a quick task anyway.

Riding my 435cc big bore with 15/43 gearing on the street, I am in 6th gear by the time I've gone a couple of hundred feet, and reaching for 7th shortly thereafter. It doesn't help that the gears on the DR are absurdly close together to begin with. When I get on gravel and dirt roads I am still using 4th through 6th most of the time.

Can anyone with a 16T post a photo to show the clearance (or lack thereof). I had to grind the case saver to get a 15T in there but seem to recall reading that there might be a different case saver available and that a 16T can be made to fit with the case saver still in place.
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Old 06-17-2012, 07:53 PM   #12231
GaThumper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kobukan View Post
Gearing determines what speed the bike is moving at any given rpm - doesn't have anything to do with how well it runs.
Here's a good tool for gearing decisions. It shows that 16/41 at 6k rpm's would be 68 mph, which sounds about right to me.
VERY nice tool! Thanks for posting!
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Old 06-17-2012, 08:57 PM   #12232
MeterPig
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrphotoman View Post
I dont know why you guys want the dr geared so high. i run 13/49 on mine and still think it is a little high. it does fine on the road but it is still not quite low enough for the trails.
I use mine more for the street.
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Old 06-18-2012, 07:03 AM   #12233
devo2002
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Because I live 20 minutes outside NYC :(
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Old 06-18-2012, 07:52 AM   #12234
tkent02
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slartidbartfast View Post

Can anyone with a 16T post a photo to show the clearance (or lack thereof). I had to grind the case saver to get a 15T in there but seem to recall reading that there might be a different case saver available and that a 16T can be made to fit with the case saver still in place.
This, ^^^ I can't get the case saver on with my 15 tooth front sprocket, is there a different one available or is it time to grind some metal away?
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Old 06-18-2012, 08:20 AM   #12235
Greg Bender
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Originally Posted by Greg Bender View Post
I tossed a bid on a rear disc and we'll see if I "win" the auction. I'll give these a try and see how they go. I'd still be interested in hearing about Kevlar pads. I'm of the persuasion that I'd rather burn through pads than burn through discs, so a pad that is easier on the disc would be my preference.

Regards,

Gregory Bender
Follow-up: Here is some more information about the inexpensive rear brake disc I purchased on ebay:

http://thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/d...sc_replacement

Hope this helps!

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 06-18-2012, 10:54 AM   #12236
MrPulldown
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Some DRs came stock with a 14 front sprocket some with a 15. I have heard of people having trouble fitting a 15 under the case saver. My bike came with a 15 and the case saver fits fine. Mayeb there were two different case savers. Mine does not look like someone ground on it, but it is really close.
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Old 06-18-2012, 10:57 AM   #12237
MrPulldown
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Bender View Post
Follow-up: Here is some more information about the inexpensive rear brake disc I purchased on ebay:

http://thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/d...sc_replacement

Hope this helps!

Regards,

Gregory Bender

Really you weld the the wrenches to the stripped hex heads...

Though it worked for you, I would not place this under the average DIY!

Good job though.
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Old 06-18-2012, 12:09 PM   #12238
MrPulldown
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Originally Posted by MeterPig View Post
That rack is very interesting. Is is factory Suzuki?
Yes factory suzuki. It is discountinued but there is one ol boy who makes a replica. YOu can find it on e-bay.

The grab bar was a euro thing. The rack is a nice grab bar.

Funny thing is there is a warning sticker on the rack that claims no more than 4 lbs should be placed on the rack.
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Old 06-18-2012, 12:17 PM   #12239
Greg Bender
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPulldown View Post
Really you weld the the wrenches to the stripped hex heads...

Though it worked for you, I would not place this under the average DIY!

Good job though.
Not a technique that I invented...guys have been doing this for years by welding on a nut to the top of stripped bolt, etc. I could have done that, but chose this route instead with cheap old wrenches I never use. Same principle and a whole bunch easier than drilling.

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 06-18-2012, 01:31 PM   #12240
MrPulldown
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^ you so crazy!
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