DR350 Thread

[mustangwagz]

Well, got my graphics material i wanted...got back half of bike done, along with headlight shroud. Tank will be next, but taking a break. alot of small, fine details that had to be gone over! Ugh!

It dont look to bad...up close you can see how "strait, flat" graphics can be a pain to install onto "rounded" plastic. Its tough to make it fit on the contoured plastics!

[scharfg]

[QUOTE=scharfg;19153591]Hey thanks for the intel. I'll have a look for it. What exactly is being pushed out (ie: what should I be looking for/meauring, see I'm a Newb)? Any idea what the max distance it can come out so I can measure mine and compare where its at (ie: how much wear do I have)?


Found some good intel about the Cam chain tensioner and how far it should be out here:

http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/941..._fromsearch__1

[Teeeeeemu]

[QUOTE=scharfg;19181641]

Originally Posted by scharfg

Hey thanks for the intel. I'll have a look for it. What exactly is being pushed out (ie: what should I be looking for/meauring, see I'm a Newb)? Any idea what the max distance it can come out so I can measure mine and compare where its at (ie: how much wear do I have)?


Found some good intel about the Cam chain tensioner and how far it should be out here:

http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/941..._fromsearch__1

I pushed the foot in, then screwed the whole thing tight, opened it again and counted how many clicks it comes out. The tensioner has 25 clicks and I could pull mine 5 more out. Guess ill try that way too.

[slartidbartfast]

Don't forget that camchain stretch/wear is not only a problem when you run out of adjustment. Before that point, the valve timing will have drifted by enough to affect performance,

[EvilGenius]

Originally Posted by slartidbartfast

Don't forget that camchain stretch/wear is not only a problem when you run out of adjustment. Before that point, the valve timing will have drifted by enough to affect performance,

Does this cause idle problems?

I dunno if the cam chain has ever been replaced on ours, but even as good as it runs now, it still idles a bit rough. Especially when it's cold. Burbles a bit at idle with the occasional cough and stall.

[Teeeeeemu]

Originally Posted by slartidbartfast

Don't forget that camchain stretch/wear is not only a problem when you run out of adjustment. Before that point, the valve timing will have drifted by enough to affect performance,

Does this cause bad starting? Valves seem to be in correct clearance, starts cold in a couple kicks but hot is sometimes impossible. Should I try with a bigger or smaller clearance? Now I have them in the middle of the suggested values.

[go::ahead]

I already started a thread for this problem but I'm hoping some dr owners recognize this problem. I just picked up a 1990 dirt model and am trying to convert it to a true dual sport. So close but still so far! I'm all set up lighting wise but now I'm having an electrical problem. FYI, I traded the factory headlight for an Acerbis Cyclops (55w), added blinkers, K&S combo switch and a keyed ignition. No battery, its a kicker

So I wired everything tonight and surprisingly nailed it, having never done electrical on this level (I know, doesn't get much more simple) I was apprehensive. The bike is A/C with no battery so I used a couple of 6v batteries wired in series to test everything without having to start the bike every time I tested a new connection, even though the lights were clearly too much for the little Raovac (sp?) they were all on point!

After making sure everything was working perfect I plugged the stator back into the black and yellow wires. I kicked the bike and also surprisingly it started and all lights were bright!....for 5 seconds, at which point all lights switched themselves off but the motor kept running (the ignition coil has dedicated wires from the stator, yellow and black for the lights are separate).
I killed the engine with my fancy new keyed switch and then fired it back up. This time I kept the motor around 3-4k rpms and tried the lights, they stayed on closer to 15 seconds this time before turning themselves off.

Does this sound familiar to anyone? I suppose I'm not getting enough power out of the stator that was originally designed for just headlight and brake lights. Still doesn't make sense that they run at full brightness and then suddenly shut off.. I was expecting dimming at low rpm's but this is a new one on me.

Thanks in advance fella's!

Oh, and here are before and after pics just for fun, still not all done though!

[WeeMcD]

Originally Posted by EvilGenius

Sure the float level is set correctly?

Hmm, no I'm not sure that the float level is set correctly. Perhaps the mamual explains this process. I'll check into it.

[PWRCRZR]

[dbarale]

Originally Posted by go::ahead

I already started a thread for this problem but I'm hoping some dr owners recognize this problem. I just picked up a 1990 dirt model and am trying to convert it to a true dual sport. So close but still so far! I'm all set up lighting wise but now I'm having an electrical problem. FYI, I traded the factory headlight for an Acerbis Cyclops (55w), added blinkers, K&S combo switch and a keyed ignition. No battery, its a kicker

So I wired everything tonight and surprisingly nailed it, having never done electrical on this level (I know, doesn't get much more simple) I was apprehensive. The bike is A/C with no battery so I used a couple of 6v batteries wired in series to test everything without having to start the bike every time I tested a new connection, even though the lights were clearly too much for the little Raovac (sp?) they were all on point!

After making sure everything was working perfect I plugged the stator back into the black and yellow wires. I kicked the bike and also surprisingly it started and all lights were bright!....for 5 seconds, at which point all lights switched themselves off but the motor kept running (the ignition coil has dedicated wires from the stator, yellow and black for the lights are separate).
I killed the engine with my fancy new keyed switch and then fired it back up. This time I kept the motor around 3-4k rpms and tried the lights, they stayed on closer to 15 seconds this time before turning themselves off.

Does this sound familiar to anyone? I suppose I'm not getting enough power out of the stator that was originally designed for just headlight and brake lights. Still doesn't make sense that they run at full brightness and then suddenly shut off.. I was expecting dimming at low rpm's but this is a new one on me.

Thanks in advance fella's!

Oh, and here are before and after pics just for fun, still not all done though!

You are not running a battery, are you running a rectifier? If so you probably need at least a capacitor in the circuit. Do you have a link to the kit you installed?

[go::ahead]

Correct, no battery. Just running the stock regulator. I didn't use a kit, just added blinkers, Vapor computer/speedo, and combo switch on the bars. The original wiring for headlight and tail light now run through the combo switch which also controls blinkers and horn. Again, everything works perfect when I connect a 12v battery in place of the stator to test, but when I plug the stator back in and fire it up something shuts down the circuit. Didn't see this one coming...

Here is the original wiring, pardon my very amateur diagram

[2bold2getold]

Originally Posted by go::ahead

Correct, no battery. Just running the stock regulator. I didn't use a kit, just added blinkers, Vapor computer/speedo, and combo switch on the bars. The original wiring for headlight and tail light now run through the combo switch which also controls blinkers and horn. Again, everything works perfect when I connect a 12v battery in place of the stator to test, but when I plug the stator back in and fire it up something shuts down the circuit. Didn't see this one coming...

Here is the original wiring, pardon my very amateur diagram

Your wiring pic doesn't show up on my screen ??? But using a DC battey isn't really going to tell you much, except the connections are good. AC & DC --- apples & oranges. Check your other thread for more ideas.

[Greg Bender]

Originally Posted by 2bold2getold

Greg has interesting info on o-rings on his site and may know of/ sell a replacement. http://thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/o-rings.htm

Sorry, I don't have any o-ring info for the carbs.

Regards,

Gregory Bender

[Greg Bender]

[QUOTE=Teeeeeemu;19181728]

Originally Posted by scharfg

I pushed the foot in, then screwed the whole thing tight, opened it again and counted how many clicks it comes out. The tensioner has 25 clicks and I could pull mine 5 more out. Guess ill try that way too.

Certainly you do not want to run out of adjustment on the auto tensioner - that leads to undesired results!

In my experience (only on my 1993 DR350), even when I replaced the chain and both gears, I still didn't have many clicks left (can't recall for sure how many just now). The guides still don't appear worn much at all. My conclusion is that while Suzuki provides 25 clicks, that even when new way fewer than 25 clicks are used. Anyone else care to confirm their experience?

Regards,

Gregory Bender

[jplum1556]

[QUOTE=Greg Bender;19186602]

Originally Posted by Teeeeeemu

Certainly you do not want to run out of adjustment on the auto tensioner - that leads to undesired results!

In my experience (only on my 1993 DR350), even when I replaced the chain and both gears, I still didn't have many clicks left (can't recall for sure how many just now). The guides still don't appear worn much at all. My conclusion is that while Suzuki provides 25 clicks, that even when new way fewer than 25 clicks are used. Anyone else care to confirm their experience?

Regards,

Gregory Bender

I recently put a new cam chain in and also noticed this. My guides didn't look worn and with the new cam chain the adjustor was almost half way extended.