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Old 07-24-2012, 07:39 PM   #12601
2bold2getold
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Joined: Dec 2011
Location: DFW TX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chiknmunky View Post
I think I got my brass T fitting at an auto parts store. Maybe Lowes or Tractor supply.
Here's another option. Cut the metal T's center leg as short as you can and still be able to make a good hose connection, and put it right on top of the carb inlet. That positions it below the petcocks and choke. Run the right side hose behind and below the carb intake to air cleaner connection.and tie it away form the exhaust and hot stuff.

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Old 07-24-2012, 09:57 PM   #12602
james1300
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Thanks for the help! (and Great pic's)!!

How's the 'right side' been working for you?
I pick'd up a brass 'T' tonite. Left side and petcock plumbed without a hitch.
Curious about your 'useable' fuel? With this plumbing how much fuel can you
actually use?

james1300 screwed with this post 07-24-2012 at 10:07 PM
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Old 07-25-2012, 07:17 AM   #12603
2bold2getold
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Quote:
Originally Posted by james1300 View Post
Thanks for the help! (and Great pic's)!!

How's the 'right side' been working for you?
I pick'd up a brass 'T' tonite. Left side and petcock plumbed without a hitch.
Curious about your 'useable' fuel? With this plumbing how much fuel can you
actually use?
So far, so good. Haven't run it completely dry, but seems to get most, if not all, of it out. I used some zip ties on the right side to position the rubber fuel line out of harms way. I think I'll use some small metal straps off of the rear master cylinder reservoir mounting bolt, and the rear rocker cover bolt for redundant protection.

Another plan would be to switch sides with the petcocks, then both petcocks point forward. Run a fuel line (possibly metal) forward, around the front of the motor to connect the two petcocks. Then T off of that, just in front of the left petcock. Run a rubber hose from there down to the carb inlet. This is the way my Transalp with the big Africa Twin tank is set up, except the rubber hose goes to a small vacume fuel pump and then to the carbs. Works great on the TA/AT. I think it would work on the DR, but haven't tried it yet.
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Old 07-25-2012, 11:03 AM   #12604
duncanbojangles
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Snapped both exhaust bolts

I snapped both exhaust bolts in the head and haven't been able to get them out. Does anybody have a DR350SE head they're willing to sell? I see a DR250 head on ebay that could work (with lots of work) but this way would be easiest.
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Old 07-25-2012, 11:04 AM   #12605
jimmywhale
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Uh oh- Idiot here stripped a crankcase bolt. Can they be tapped out ?

Hey guys,

Rookie move - replaced my Stator on my 98 DR350se. Upon re-assembly I overtightened one of the crank case bolts (the lowest one) and stripped it out.

Now I have a small oil leak because the cover wont tighten down completely. I should have torqued them properly. I'm an idiot.

Has anyone stripped one of these before - and is it possible to tap them out to something bigger without replacing the whole crank case ?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers,
James.
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Old 07-25-2012, 11:29 AM   #12606
Greg Bender
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmywhale View Post
Hey guys,

Rookie move - replaced my Stator on my 98 DR350se. Upon re-assembly I overtightened one of the crank case bolts (the lowest one) and stripped it out.

Now I have a small oil leak because the cover wont tighten down completely. I should have torqued them properly. I'm an idiot.

Has anyone stripped one of these before - and is it possible to tap them out to something bigger without replacing the whole crank case ?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers,
James.
I would repair using a thread insert or helicoil.

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 07-25-2012, 11:32 AM   #12607
2bold2getold
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Quote:
Originally Posted by duncanbojangles View Post
I snapped both exhaust bolts in the head and haven't been able to get them out. Does anybody have a DR350SE head they're willing to sell? I see a DR250 head on ebay that could work (with lots of work) but this way would be easiest.
Been there many times. I had a VW shop in another life. If there is some of the broken part sticking out, sometimes you can either screw on a nut or use a nut that will fit over the broken part and use an electric welder to weld the nut to the stud. The heat helps loosen the stud, put a socket on the nut and carefully remove it. Or ( if that fails ) take the head to a "good" automotive machine shop and see if they have an electronic arc stud remover. Probably got the name wrong, it's been a long time sense I've had to do this. This machine can burn the broken stud out of the head and somtimes not even hurt the threads. IIRC it doesn't cost much. Less than another head. Helicoil is the trick for pulled threads.
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Old 07-25-2012, 11:34 AM   #12608
Greg Bender
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Quote:
Originally Posted by duncanbojangles View Post
I snapped both exhaust bolts in the head and haven't been able to get them out. Does anybody have a DR350SE head they're willing to sell? I see a DR250 head on ebay that could work (with lots of work) but this way would be easiest.
Good heads are rare and expensive when found. I would definitely pull the head and try a couple of things before buying a good used one.

1. I would weld a nut onto whatever portion of the protruding stud remains. This will give you a lot more to grab onto when turning AND the heat from welding may very well loosen things up a bit.

2. If that still doesn't get them out, I'd find a place local that can do Electrical Discharge Machining. I don't know how much that would cost, but I've heard guys have had good luck with it.

Hope this helps!

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 07-25-2012, 12:02 PM   #12609
james1300
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Quote:
Originally Posted by duncanbojangles View Post
I snapped both exhaust bolts in the head and haven't been able to get them out. Does anybody have a DR350SE head they're willing to sell? I see a DR250 head on ebay that could work (with lots of work) but this way would be easiest.
What about taking it to a machine shop?
An hour of their time is worth it!
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Old 07-25-2012, 12:07 PM   #12610
2bold2getold
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmywhale View Post
Hey guys,

Rookie move - replaced my Stator on my 98 DR350se. Upon re-assembly I overtightened one of the crank case bolts (the lowest one) and stripped it out.

Now I have a small oil leak because the cover wont tighten down completely. I should have torqued them properly. I'm an idiot.

Has anyone stripped one of these before - and is it possible to tap them out to something bigger without replacing the whole crank case ?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers,
James.
I think thoes are 6x1mm bolts. A good auto parts supplier( or Ace Hardware store ) should have a "Helicoil Kit". The kit should have a drill bit, a tap, two insertion tools, and some helicoils. Carefully drill and tap the stripped hole. The next part is a little tricky for the 6mm size helicoil. Put the helicoil on the rod insertion tool and screw the helicoil into the holder. This forces the helicoil to a little smaller diameter so it doesn't screw up the first threads in the newly taped hole. Place the holder up against the hole and turn the insertion rod without pushing on it. It will go right in the hole you just tapped. If you push while you turn it will jump the first thread and cross thread in the first couple of threads. Install the helicoil about one thread past the surface. That will keep the bolt from pulling that first thread loose. Last stick a small screw driver in the helicoil and brake off the little tab( at the notch )( you can sometimes get it out with a small magnet, but not necessary in a blind hole) that you used to screw it in with. It's not as hard as it sounds. I've done lots of them.
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Old 07-25-2012, 12:33 PM   #12611
james1300
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Laugh

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2bold2getold View Post
So far, so good. Haven't run it completely dry, but seems to get most, if not all, of it out. I used some zip ties on the right side to position the rubber fuel line out of harms way. I think I'll use some small metal straps off of the rear master cylinder reservoir mounting bolt, and the rear rocker cover bolt for redundant protection.

Another plan would be to switch sides with the petcocks, then both petcocks point forward. Run a fuel line (possibly metal) forward, around the front of the motor to connect the two petcocks. Then T off of that, just in front of the left petcock. Run a rubber hose from there down to the carb inlet. This is the way my Transalp with the big Africa Twin tank is set up, except the rubber hose goes to a small vacume fuel pump and then to the carbs. Works great on the TA/AT. I think it would work on the DR, but haven't tried it yet.
!st Thank you for the help!

My buddy, who used to have a DR350 (it's his wife's now). Suggested the same thing.
I'm gonna try it YOUR way 1st. I did zip-tie the R/H fuel line out of harms way. (like you suggested)
I used (2) ties wrapped arond the rear brake res. I also trimmed barb's off the 'T'.(again, like you suggested)
One where the 'T' meets the carb and one where the R/H fuel line meets the 'T'.
This gave me more room for a gentle bend of the R/H line to where it mates with the fuel 'T'.

Just finished it's 1st ride! The lil' Mutt works fine. No leaks or drips!

QUESTION: FUEL Taps ' Which way is OFF and which way is Reserve?




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Old 07-25-2012, 12:37 PM   #12612
MrPulldown
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Quote:
Originally Posted by james1300 View Post
!st Thank you for the help!


QUESTION: FUEL Taps ' Which way is OFF and which way is Reserve?
There are arrows on the fuel taps, if you look closely. They are opposite the lever.

On the left side off is towards you. On the right off is away. I draw little arrows on my handlebar clamps to remind me. Without the vacum on/off petcock you will need to turn off the gas after every ride!
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Old 07-25-2012, 12:43 PM   #12613
james1300
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Thanks for the Help! I always try and remember to shut-off the fuel on non-vacume bikes.
(remember the decals(years ago) that said, "Turn the Gas on Dummy"? I swear those where printed for me!
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Old 07-25-2012, 01:26 PM   #12614
TheOtherBart
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teeeeeemu View Post
When I test-tightened my adjuster I heard the spring push the tensioner-stick out. Thats why its automatic, no need to pull it out every once in a while I have no clue about the rest though. Hope you get it fixed. Did you change the chain btw?
Not yet, it's on the to-do list after about a dozen other things.
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Old 07-25-2012, 01:44 PM   #12615
2bold2getold
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Quote:
Originally Posted by james1300 View Post
!st Thank you for the help!



You've got the forks up in the clamps a little. Should give a little quicker steering. Just watch that the tire doesn't jam into the fender mount when it bottoms. Makes for a fun "Super Man" for a second.
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