ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Thumpers
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 07-25-2012, 02:01 PM   #12616
jimmywhale
n00b
 
Joined: Jul 2012
Location: Maine
Oddometer: 9
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2bold2getold View Post
I think thoes are 6x1mm bolts. A good auto parts supplier( or Ace Hardware store ) should have a "Helicoil Kit". The kit should have a drill bit, a tap, two insertion tools, and some helicoils. Carefully drill and tap the stripped hole. The next part is a little tricky for the 6mm size helicoil. Put the helicoil on the rod insertion tool and screw the helicoil into the holder. This forces the helicoil to a little smaller diameter so it doesn't screw up the first threads in the newly taped hole. Place the holder up against the hole and turn the insertion rod without pushing on it. It will go right in the hole you just tapped. If you push while you turn it will jump the first thread and cross thread in the first couple of threads. Install the helicoil about one thread past the surface. That will keep the bolt from pulling that first thread loose. Last stick a small screw driver in the helicoil and brake off the little tab( at the notch )( you can sometimes get it out with a small magnet, but not necessary in a blind hole) that you used to screw it in with. It's not as hard as it sounds. I've done lots of them.

This is super detailed and awesome thanks. 2bold.

I will be sure to give it a go tomorrow with these steps and let you know how I get on. Now - to the hardware store !

jimmywhale is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-25-2012, 03:11 PM   #12617
Teeeeeemu
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: Feb 2012
Location: Finland
Oddometer: 104
Eek Hoses etc.

Pumper boys! How are your gas overflow(?) hoses installed on the carb? On mine theres one on each side and smaller one on the bottom. The side hoses go up, then connect with a T into a single hose that ends near the spring so any fuel will just splash on the spring. Isnt that quite stupid? If someone (or many) would explain (words or pics) how theirs are.. Just got some neon yellow fuel so Id like them all go to the bottom and maybe zip tie them together like on most dirtbikes.

Another similar question. The airbox has 3 hoses in it. One comes from the engine so some oil will drain to the airbox. Why is that?
Another one has maybe 20cm hose with some weird tip on it and it ends near the chain/swingarm shaft area. What is it for? To lube the chain? All mine does is a mess near the sprocket... Can I plug it?

The third one on mine is plugged. Is it plugged stock, if not, what is it for?

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheOtherBart View Post
Not yet, it's on the to-do list after about a dozen other things.
I bought a new chain today, not oem but I trust it... Some help with aligning the gears when changing the chain would be appreciated.
Teeeeeemu is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-25-2012, 03:40 PM   #12618
mustangwagz
Gnarly Adventurer
 
mustangwagz's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Western PA
Oddometer: 242
What model?

hey guys, when buying OEM parts off of an OEM parts site, sometimes i see "model: O/P/R/S..." etc etc, how do ya tell which "model" ya got? it designated in the VIN?
__________________
-WagZ-
'93 DR350S

My attempt to roundup Local Riders..
https://www.facebook.com/dualsportridingwesternpa
mustangwagz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-25-2012, 03:40 PM   #12619
2bold2getold
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Dec 2011
Location: DFW TX
Oddometer: 1,296
Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmywhale View Post
This is super detailed and awesome thanks. 2bold.

I will be sure to give it a go tomorrow with these steps and let you know how I get on. Now - to the hardware store !

Try to keep the drill straight. It won't cut much. It's just a little bigger than the hole. If you haven't used a tap before, just go slow. Tap a little and back out a little with a bit of oil. You'll feel it get tight. Keep the tap straight. Look at it from different angles. Don't break the tap !! It's almost impossible to get the broken piece out. If the helicoil in your kit is not the right length ( they make different lenghts ) you can cut it by filing a notch with a jewelers/needle file and bending it or install two, one on top of the other then remove the installation tabs. It doesn't have to fill the whole depth of the hole. Helicoils are much stronger than the original hole. If everything goes south, all is not lost. A "good" ( there's that word again ) welder can weld up the whole mess and you can drill and tap 6mm. You don't even have to take it apart. Some say you can't weld cases after they have had oil run in them. Not true. I've had it done. They may not want to mess with it, but it can be done without any real difficulty. Installing Helicoils is a handy skill to learn. I did my first ones in '66 on missles in the AF.

2bold2getold screwed with this post 07-25-2012 at 08:37 PM
2bold2getold is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-25-2012, 03:43 PM   #12620
boardforever
Gnarly Adventurer
 
boardforever's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2010
Location: Hood River Valley
Oddometer: 168
Quote:
Originally Posted by mustangwagz View Post
hey guys, when buying OEM parts off of an OEM parts site, sometimes i see "model: O/P/R/S..." etc etc, how do ya tell which "model" ya got? it designated in the VIN?
I believe the model designates the year of the bike. for instance my bike is a DR350SEX X=1999. If I understood your question correctly. This page has a break down on years/models.
__________________
1999 DR350SE
2006 Kawasaki ZZR600 [sold]
boardforever is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-25-2012, 04:48 PM   #12621
mustangwagz
Gnarly Adventurer
 
mustangwagz's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Western PA
Oddometer: 242
Quote:
Originally Posted by boardforever View Post
I believe the model designates the year of the bike. for instance my bike is a DR350SEX X=1999. If I understood your question correctly. This page has a break down on years/models.
hmmm, according to that page, my 93 is a model P, even though its a DR350S?
__________________
-WagZ-
'93 DR350S

My attempt to roundup Local Riders..
https://www.facebook.com/dualsportridingwesternpa
mustangwagz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-25-2012, 05:32 PM   #12622
Greg Bender
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Cave Creek, Arizona, United States
Oddometer: 1,068
Quote:
Originally Posted by mustangwagz View Post
hmmm, according to that page, my 93 is a model P, even though its a DR350S?
The letter designates the model year, not the model.

On page 3 of these spare parts catalogs, I've indicated the letter designation for each year. Hope that helps!

Regards,

Gregory Bender
Greg Bender is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-25-2012, 06:24 PM   #12623
kobukan
almost gnarly
 
kobukan's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2009
Location: Saco ME
Oddometer: 1,694
Quote:
Originally Posted by Teeeeeemu View Post
Pumper boys! How are your gas overflow(?) hoses installed on the carb? On mine theres one on each side and smaller one on the bottom. The side hoses go up, then connect with a T into a single hose that ends near the spring so any fuel will just splash on the spring. Isnt that quite stupid? If someone (or many) would explain (words or pics) how theirs are.. Just got some neon yellow fuel so Id like them all go to the bottom and maybe zip tie them together like on most dirtbikes.
On the TM33 pumper carb the two side hoses are vent lines. The bottom hose is a drain line - there is a screw on the bottom of the bowl - unscrew it to drain the carb and the fuel will flow out through the bottom hose - make sure it terminates somewhere where you don't mind fuel dumping.

In regard to venting and the two side hoses, unless you're planning some fairly deep water crossings there is no need for anything other than a line hanging down on each side, preferably routed down behind the motor a little somewhere. The way yours is setup is not ideal because with the hoses running upward fuel can accumulate in the line and prevent proper venting. On rough terrain fuel does slosh around some inside the carb and a little will enter those hoses occasionally - it needs to be able to run out of the hose. Also, if the bike is laid over, fuel will flow out the hose on the down side of the bike and the line needs to be able to drain clear when you upright the bike. Now, if you want to set up for deep water, the ideal way to vent the carb imo is to route each side vent hose down toward the rear, then tee them individually so that there is a section of hose for each one running up under the seat, and another section of hose for each one running downward so fuel can drain, but to prevent water from coming in there needs to be a one-way valve on the end of each of the downward hose sections. If you decide you want them, the valves are available here, but I doubt many people bother to set their venting up that way - I did because I sometimes run into really deep water around here. The other option for deep water is you can just take those two vent hoses that are hanging down and shove the ends up between the seat and tank just for the ride through the water, then drop them back down - if you rarely encounter deep water that's the easiest thing to do, just don't forget when you get to that big old water hole.

Hope that helps.
__________________
'04 R1150GS, '97 R1100GS, '99 DR350, '02 DR650, '03 DR650
A Few Days Solo to Copper Canyon
A Maine Rider’s Arizona Day Trips
A Few Days Solo in Baja
kobukan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-25-2012, 06:26 PM   #12624
boardforever
Gnarly Adventurer
 
boardforever's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2010
Location: Hood River Valley
Oddometer: 168
Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Bender View Post
The letter designates the model year, not the model.

On page 3 of these spare parts catalogs, I've indicated the letter designation for each year. Hope that helps!

Regards,

Gregory Bender
Thanks, you said what I meant.
__________________
1999 DR350SE
2006 Kawasaki ZZR600 [sold]
boardforever is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-25-2012, 06:53 PM   #12625
mustangwagz
Gnarly Adventurer
 
mustangwagz's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Western PA
Oddometer: 242
Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Bender View Post
The letter designates the model year, not the model.

On page 3 of these spare parts catalogs, I've indicated the letter designation for each year. Hope that helps!

Regards,

Gregory Bender
Thanks Mr. Bender! Very helpful as usual! i never even noticed those manuals on your site!!
__________________
-WagZ-
'93 DR350S

My attempt to roundup Local Riders..
https://www.facebook.com/dualsportridingwesternpa
mustangwagz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-25-2012, 07:56 PM   #12626
dtp
Gnarly Adventurer
 
dtp's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2009
Location: Turlock, California
Oddometer: 383
Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmywhale View Post
This is super detailed and awesome thanks. 2bold.

I will be sure to give it a go tomorrow with these steps and let you know how I get on. Now - to the hardware store !

Doing a Helicoil is really easy. I just had to do one on one of my exhaust header bolts. At first I was really scared to do it, fearing I'd mess it up even worse and almost took it into the shop. I then watched a YouTube video on doing a Helicoil and went "hey that looks easy... I can do that."

Well I did it and was shocked at how easy it was and how well it worked.

One thing about the video I watched (was the first one that came up in a Helicoil search)... they did not use cutting oil when drillling and tapping the hole. You should do that.

I bought my kit at O'Reilly Auto Parts. They had it in stock then I went to the hardware store and bought a tap wrench and the cutting oil. Already had the drill bit.
__________________
07 Husqvarna TE250,07 VStrom 650, 92 Suzuki DR350S
"Go soothingly on the grease mud, as there lurks the skid demon!" -- 1962 Honda Safety Rules
dtp is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-25-2012, 08:00 PM   #12627
_CJ
Retrogrouch
 
_CJ's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2010
Location: The 719, Yo.
Oddometer: 1,326
Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Bender View Post
Nothing special. I'd just lay it over on the left side and pull the cover (wash thoroughly first). Keep careful track of where each cover bolt goes. I would replace all seals in the cover and the cover gasket while I had it apart. Be very careful when tightening the bolts not to strip the threads.

Regards,

Gregory Bender
Quote:
Originally Posted by shearboy2004 View Post
Could you take a pic of the leak and post it Mate ?
Okay guys. Here's a couple of pictures after tearing it down. Seems like the gasket was a little goobered up. There were also washer/gaskets on four of the bolts, which I think were supposed to only be on the two bolts that hold the clutch cable braket....one on each side of the bracket? Is that right? There was a little leakage there, but not much.

I also pulled the clutch apart, which looks exactly like an automatic car transmission clutch pack. Looks fine to me, but I'll post a picture for everyone's review.

Everything look good to you guys? Anything jumping out at you as a problem? As you can see, the whole bike was pretty slimed up, so it's hard to say where it was actually leaking from.



__________________
.
.
Moto since 2011, DR350
MTB since 1991, Full-Rigid Steel 1x8
_CJ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-25-2012, 09:55 PM   #12628
robertguzzi
n00b
 
Joined: Jul 2012
Location: chicago, IL and sometimes Lawton, MI
Oddometer: 2
can anyone report on a big bore kit?

hello,
i just bought a 1990 dr350 about a week ago and am considering a big bore kit. can anyone share their experiences with any of the kits? I've seen torque curves for them but am more interested in real world antecdotal differences in terms of speed and power delivery. a lot of my riding will be on somewhat wide open trails so i think it might be a good upgrade for me.
thanks in advance,
rob
robertguzzi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-26-2012, 12:14 AM   #12629
duncanbojangles
Adventurer
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Location: Lafayette, LA
Oddometer: 30
Thanks for the advice on the snapped exhaust bolts, I'm pulling the head tomorrow and bringing it to a machine shop that a friend works at. I'll let y'all know how it goes.
duncanbojangles is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-26-2012, 12:29 AM   #12630
cwc
Studly Adventurer
 
Joined: Jan 2005
Location: anywhere
Oddometer: 890
More helicoil ideas

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2bold2getold View Post
Try to keep the drill straight. It won't cut much. It's just a little bigger than the hole. If you haven't used a tap before, just go slow. Tap a little and back out a little with a bit of oil. You'll feel it get tight. Keep the tap straight. Look at it from different angles. Don't break the tap !! It's almost impossible to get the broken piece out.

If the helicoil in your kit is not the right length
( they make different lenghts ) you can cut it by filing a notch with a jewelers/needle file and bending it or install two, one on top of the other then remove the installation tabs. It doesn't have to fill the whole depth of the hole. Helicoils are much stronger than the original hole.
Some excellent advice in the posts above on how to do this.

If you haven't done it before try to find a piece of aluminum and install a helicoil in it for practice before starting on the bike.

The hole in the cover MAY be large enough to pass the tap through. If it is that is a good way to keep the tap perpendicular to the hole in the case.

Most helicoil kits will have coils of an appropriate length (unless you are doing the head/cylinder studs on a BMW twin). Anything over 3-5 threads in length is pretty much overkill in most cases.
__________________
Charlie

DR350 It'll get you there

My Ride Reports Here
cwc is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 03:54 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014