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Old 07-30-2012, 06:39 PM   #12676
tntmo
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Location: San Diego, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by _CJ View Post
Now that I figured out my kickstand switch is fully functional, and causing headaches in my starting procedure, I'm thinking it's time to bypass it. Is the switch closed when the kickstand is up....so I can just clip the wires and tie them together, or do the wires need to be clipped removed completely?

The connection is up under the tank, on the right hand side close to the coil. You can use a crimp style butt connector, an inline wire tap or solder and heat shrink to connect the wires after you remove the terminals. For some reason, I still have three of those kickstand switches in my box of parts. I guess maybe some day someone might want one?
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Old 07-30-2012, 07:08 PM   #12677
_CJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tntmo View Post
The connection is up under the tank, on the right hand side close to the coil. You can use a crimp style butt connector, an inline wire tap or solder and heat shrink to connect the wires after you remove the terminals. For some reason, I still have three of those kickstand switches in my box of parts. I guess maybe some day someone might want one?
Oh yeah, I'm sure fifty years from now loads of people will be doing 100 point restorations of DR350's for big $$$ (and expect you to give the parts to them for nothing more than the cost of shipping).

Throw em in the scrap heap now.
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Old 07-30-2012, 08:15 PM   #12678
tntmo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by _CJ View Post
Oh yeah, I'm sure fifty years from now loads of people will be doing 100 point restorations of DR350's for big $$$ (and expect you to give the parts to them for nothing more than the cost of shipping).

Throw em in the scrap heap now.

Yeah, exactly what I was thinking!
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Old 07-30-2012, 10:53 PM   #12679
letank
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slartidbartfast View Post
Audi manufactures and sells a vehicle which is designed in such a way that it NEEDS "various things" reprogramming following a routine maintenance activity (battery exchange) and you find it comical? I find it pathetic!

The technology to hold permanent memories of settings and other programming has been readily available for decades yet Audi and most other manufacturers choose not to use it. Despite not being a proponent of most big business conspiracy theories, this approach definitely seems to be specifically intended to force owners into purchasing an otherwise unnecessary service.

I am glad all the vehicles I own, including my DR, are free of such stupidity. Oh... my 1985 R80RT needs the clock resetting after the battery is disconnected. Is it comical that I twist the adjustment knob myself or do you think I should take it to a dealership?
2X, most stealerships will replace your transmission if a $ 0.25 plastic check valve fails....

Newer cars have more than 2 oxygen sensors.... guess which one fails.... at $400 a pop...... your wallet....

I still have carburetors on my vehicles.
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Old 07-31-2012, 12:49 AM   #12680
shearboy2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by james1300 View Post
1995 DR350SE. 'New EBC HH pads' on the 'Front'. Rear works fine.
I cleaned and lightly sanded the rotor. I gotta say the rotors on these bikes are to quote another rider, "Diet Bread Thin".
The first time I really 'laid into the front brake' it MOANED and GROANED like an old bus.
I can modulate the lever up to where it starts making noise. But the braking takes longer.
I come from street bikes with Dual 320mm front disc's and calipers.
So, I redressed the rotor. Sanded it. Cleaned it with brake cleaner. I redressed the EBC pads. Using 'dry wall' cloth (sandpaper) I worked the pads in a 'figure '8' pattern untill ALL the glaze is off. Then I cleaned the caliper. Using 'Simple Green', I scrubbed all around the pistons and where the pads sit in the caliper.
I then dressed and cleaned the 'pin's' that hold the pads into the caliper. I relubed these pins with syn. brake caliper grease. Prior to mounting the 'floating pad' I even applied syn. brake caliper grease to where it moves on its locating pin on the caliper. Brake system has been bled.
Short of changing pads, is there anything I have missed? Any suggestions you can think of?
Do I need to change pads again?

Mate it sounds you have done everything bar changing the fluid but I doubt will that do much !
My front brake works really well so I'm not sure what the problem is with yours apart from the fact that it is never going to be as good as your street bike .
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Old 07-31-2012, 08:05 AM   #12681
Airvent
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Airvent View Post
Cant seem to get my 1998 DR350 running properly after washing.

I drove it 4700mi cross country, ran perfect the whole time. The day after I got home, I washed it with a garden hose and toothbrush. It will not rev out now. It will start, and run with throttle. It feels like there is a load on the engine.

I have already:

Replaced sparkplug, checked airfilter, gone through carb, swapped CDI, swapped coil.

I have my buddys DR350 here for a swap bike

Absolutely no change with the attemeted above.

Also, the tach stopped working as well at the same time.

Any ideas guys?
Just to follow up. Replacing pick up coil #1 fixed this problem. The DR is back up and running !
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Old 07-31-2012, 08:57 AM   #12682
Greg Bender
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Airvent View Post
Just to follow up. Replacing pick up coil #1 fixed this problem. The DR is back up and running !
Excellent! Did you end up using the ones available from Ricky Stator?

FYI - I completed a 2550 mile trip on my DR350 in mid-July (Arizona - Utah - Wyoming - Idaho - Nevada). While I experienced zero troubles (other than a side cover bolt loosened up once), your pick-up coil story was in the back of my mind. It is likely I'll be thinking of it again in early September when I undertake another 1500 mile trip to Nevada.

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 07-31-2012, 09:01 AM   #12683
2bold2getold
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Regarding front brake noise. I see a lot of posts about/from people wanting more front braking. I don't get it. If it will lock up the tire in the dirt, what else do you want. Even back in the old days with drum brakes and cardboard linings, the fronts were ok, the rear needed some help sometimes. I know I'm chicken but I never liked speed. I get these mental images of what happens if one of a thousand things goes bad at anything over about 40mph. I know these things are street legal, but using it for a street bike is pushing it. There's lots of good street bikes out there. Looked up thoes EBC HH pads. They say they are the stickiest sintered copper pads you can get. That might be a problem on these bikes, but I doubt it. You might try using one of thoes 2" surface prep pads on the rotor ( the brown fiber ones with the grit bonded in ) and get a good swirl pattern,( Harbor Freight has em ) and use some of that blue anti squeek glue (auto parts store ) on the back of the pads. I've even used silicone seal on problem pads. Put a coat on the backs and stick em on there. Most of the noise comes from pad vibration.
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Old 07-31-2012, 09:07 AM   #12684
2bold2getold
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Bender View Post
Excellent! Did you end up using the ones available from Ricky Stator?

FYI - I completed a 2550 mile trip on my DR350 in mid-July (Arizona - Utah - Wyoming - Idaho - Nevada). While I experienced zero troubles (other than a side cover bolt loosened up once), your pick-up coil story was in the back of my mind. It is likely I'll be thinking of it again in early September when I undertake another 1500 mile trip to Nevada.

Regards,

Gregory Bender
So, how'd the CV carb work out for ya ?
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Old 07-31-2012, 09:53 AM   #12685
Greg Bender
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2bold2getold View Post
So, how'd the CV carb work out for ya ?
It worked out very well, actually. Last year I went on a similar trip with my pumper carb. Here are the fuel economy differences:

Pavement days (high speed, long haul getting to and from the start of the dirt portion):
2011 with pumper carb: 43.70 MPG
2012 with CV carb: 49.31 MPG

Dirt days (lower speeds with a lot of variety in throttle position):
2011 with pumer carb: 47.40 MPG
2012 with CV carb: 57.23 MPG

On pavement days, I was pretty much just pounding out miles at 60 - 65 MPH. Fuel stations were plentiful and fuel was not an issue. An increase of 6 MPG is certainly appreciated, but it didn't make or break my journey. I'm certainly not going to complain about a 49 MPG average running my DR350 hard all day.

On dirt days, I was thrilled to get nearly 10 MPG improvement. With my Clarke tank, that is another ~40 miles of usable range and I never needed to pack extra fuel. My entire goal was to be more efficient so I wouldn't need to pack a gallon of extra fuel. It was great to reach 175 - 180 miles on my odometer and just then go onto reserve with ample fuel to spare. Good stuff!

My best economy was 63.42 MPG. That was a dirt day at slower, more relaxed speeds. I'm certain I could get even better economy if I were to be really careful with my throttle and really take it easy. I doubt I'll ever test that, though, as I like to rotate that throttle and go fast (fast for me - I am no racer by any stretch of the imagination).

As for performance, the CV carb behaved very well. It took me a bit to get used to it (moving from the pumper), but I am quite pleased with it. I'll likely swap back over to the pumper during the winter months just for giggles.

My only complaint was that on "cooler" mornings at higher elevations (~6000 feet plus) that the CV carb would take a long time to warm up first thing in the morning. I suspect the air/fuel screw was set too rich for those conditions and I bet it would have behaved much better had I adjusted it leaner (or perhaps removed the airbox cover to let in more air). Rather than fiddle with it, I just dealt with the sluggish performance until it had warmed up. After that, it didn't matter where I was at (up to the 10,000 feet I saw on my trip), the CV carb worked very well.

As for set up, I have an uncut airbox with the original "S" model tube in it. The carburetor is set up with stock jetting and air/fuel screw setting. The muffler is an original, but has been modified by Jesse.

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 07-31-2012, 10:05 AM   #12686
2bold2getold
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Location: DFW TX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Bender View Post
It worked out very well, actually. Last year I went on a similar trip with my pumper carb. Here are the fuel economy differences:

Pavement days (high speed, long haul getting to and from the start of the dirt portion):
2011 with pumper carb: 43.70 MPG
2012 with CV carb: 49.31 MPG

Dirt days (lower speeds with a lot of variety in throttle position):
2011 with pumer carb: 47.40 MPG
2012 with CV carb: 57.23 MPG

On pavement days, I was pretty much just pounding out miles at 60 - 65 MPH. Fuel stations were plentiful and fuel was not an issue. An increase of 6 MPG is certainly appreciated, but it didn't make or break my journey. I'm certainly not going to complain about a 49 MPG average running my DR350 hard all day.

On dirt days, I was thrilled to get nearly 10 MPG improvement. With my Clarke tank, that is another ~40 miles of usable range and I never needed to pack extra fuel. My entire goal was to be more efficient so I wouldn't need to pack a gallon of extra fuel. It was great to reach 175 - 180 miles on my odometer and just then go onto reserve with ample fuel to spare. Good stuff!

My best economy was 63.42 MPG. That was a dirt day at slower, more relaxed speeds. I'm certain I could get even better economy if I were to be really careful with my throttle and really take it easy. I doubt I'll ever test that, though, as I like to rotate that throttle and go fast (fast for me - I am no racer by any stretch of the imagination).

As for performance, the CV carb behaved very well. It took me a bit to get used to it (moving from the pumper), but I am quite pleased with it. I'll likely swap back over to the pumper during the winter months just for giggles.

My only complaint was that on "cooler" mornings at higher elevations (~6000 feet plus) that the CV carb would take a long time to warm up first thing in the morning. I suspect the air/fuel screw was set too rich for those conditions and I bet it would have behaved much better had I adjusted it leaner (or perhaps removed the airbox cover to let in more air). Rather than fiddle with it, I just dealt with the sluggish performance until it had warmed up. After that, it didn't matter where I was at (up to the 10,000 feet I saw on my trip), the CV carb worked very well.

As for set up, I have an uncut airbox with the original "S" model tube in it. The carburetor is set up with stock jetting and air/fuel screw setting. The muffler is an original, but has been modified by Jesse.

Regards,

Gregory Bender
Sounds like you got what you wanted. Great record keeping. I don't get much past the mental math at the pump when I fill up. Might try pulling the rubber tube, next trip, from the air box as a compromise. Can't tell it does much, maybe just for noise.
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Old 07-31-2012, 10:09 AM   #12687
Greg Bender
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2bold2getold View Post
Sounds like you got what you wanted. Great record keeping. I don't get much past the mental math at the pump when I fill up. Might try pulling the rubber tube, next trip, from the air box as a compromise. Can't tell it does much, maybe just for noise.
I'm in a strict habit of always writing down the mileage/gallons every stop in my little notebook I keep in my jacket pocket. It is also a good way for me to remember back to a trip I've taken several years ago. Beyond that, they are just scribbles for me :>

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 07-31-2012, 11:46 AM   #12688
Rode2Nowhere
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Location: Stillwater (next to Saratoga), NY
Oddometer: 2,197
Hello Gents,
Where are people getting their 16t sprockets? I know I have to shop for a DR400 version, but I'm not seeing anything beyond 15t at my regular vendors. Thanks!
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Old 07-31-2012, 12:39 PM   #12689
MrPulldown
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Originally Posted by Rode2Nowhere View Post
Hello Gents,
Where are people getting their 16t sprockets? I know I have to shop for a DR400 version, but I'm not seeing anything beyond 15t at my regular vendors. Thanks!
That is because 16th front sprockets do not fit under the stock case saver. You either have to remove or grind it out.

I have not bought one, but this is the first time I have seen a 16t listed for a dr350.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sunstar-Spro...6d84e7&vxp=mtr
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Old 07-31-2012, 02:21 PM   #12690
Hudson7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rode2Nowhere View Post
Hello Gents,
Where are people getting their 16t sprockets? I know I have to shop for a DR400 version, but I'm not seeing anything beyond 15t at my regular vendors. Thanks!
Quote:
Originally Posted by devo2002 View Post
Im looking to trade either my 13t or 16t sunstar front sprocket for a 14t, any interested? They both have maybe 5 miles on em, pm if interested in a straight swap. I'd also swap for a new 15 I guess since I'll need it eventually.
Just traded for mine! Cost me only shipping and a barely used 14T.
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