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Old 07-31-2012, 02:22 PM   #12691
_CJ
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Joined: Dec 2010
Location: The 719, Yo.
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IRC TR8 tires?

Anyone ever try these tires on a DR350?



http://www.bikebandit.com/irc-tr8-ba...otorcycle-tire

They look like a good tire for the kind of riding I like to do (10% pavement, 50% dirt road, 30% 4x4 trails, 10% OHV trails), and the price was right so I ordered some up. Just wondering if anyone here has any experience with them.

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Old 07-31-2012, 03:20 PM   #12692
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rode2Nowhere View Post
Hello Gents,
Where are people getting their 16t sprockets? I know I have to shop for a DR400 version, but I'm not seeing anything beyond 15t at my regular vendors. Thanks!
I ordered one from bikebandit
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Old 07-31-2012, 04:10 PM   #12693
Teeeeeemu
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Question (?)

I got a new cam chain now and tried to get the old one out but how the hell have you kept the engine from turning over? I tried to search for some instructions but didnt really find anything.
Seems really easy anyway.
Lower sprocket (and nut, how?) off, then just lift cam shaft + chain out from the top. Is that it? I guess the sprockets need to be in same position they were while removing the old chain Any help for that? Does it matter at what stroke the engine is? Or where the cams are pointing?
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Old 07-31-2012, 04:12 PM   #12694
MrPulldown
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There is a big nut you can access through a cap on the case.
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Old 07-31-2012, 04:23 PM   #12695
Teeeeeemu
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Yea on the magneto side? but what if it comes loose before the other side?
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Old 07-31-2012, 06:30 PM   #12696
rubberband
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rode2Nowhere View Post
Hello Gents,
Where are people getting their 16t sprockets? I know I have to shop for a DR400 version, but I'm not seeing anything beyond 15t at my regular vendors. Thanks!
Procycle!!!!
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Old 07-31-2012, 06:44 PM   #12697
Airvent
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Originally Posted by Greg Bender View Post
Excellent! Did you end up using the ones available from Ricky Stator?

FYI - I completed a 2550 mile trip on my DR350 in mid-July (Arizona - Utah - Wyoming - Idaho - Nevada). While I experienced zero troubles (other than a side cover bolt loosened up once), your pick-up coil story was in the back of my mind. It is likely I'll be thinking of it again in early September when I undertake another 1500 mile trip to Nevada.

Regards,

Gregory Bender
I bought a used 1993 stator that happened to have two coils. I had a high of 76.2mpg heading west through Penns-Ohio.
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Old 07-31-2012, 07:16 PM   #12698
2bold2getold
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teeeeeemu View Post
I got a new cam chain now and tried to get the old one out but how the hell have you kept the engine from turning over? I tried to search for some instructions but didnt really find anything.
Seems really easy anyway.
Lower sprocket (and nut, how?) off, then just lift cam shaft + chain out from the top. Is that it? I guess the sprockets need to be in same position they were while removing the old chain Any help for that? Does it matter at what stroke the engine is? Or where the cams are pointing?
I'm sure you have a manual, so this is just general information that might help. All four cycle motors are the same. When the crank/piston is in the top dead center position ( TDC ), put the cam so that the lobes point away from the lifters/rockers ( at about 45 degrees ) in equal and opposite directions to the outside. The same position they are in when you adjust the valve clearance. There are marks on the crank shaft, cam shaft (or gear ) and on some motors on the cam and/or timing chain ( or belt on some motors ) that must be in the correct position. And at the same time the ignition sensors must be in alignment as well. This is true of multi cylinder/multi cammed motors also. With Diesel motors you have the added timing of the injection pump, but no ignition. Use an air wrench or 1/2" electric impact wrench to loosen tight nuts, or find a safe spot to wedge a tool to keep things from turning.

2bold2getold screwed with this post 07-31-2012 at 08:28 PM
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Old 07-31-2012, 07:17 PM   #12699
trailraat
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I bought what I believe to be a 1992 DR350S and I thought I understood that the kickstart bikes have a capacitor. When I took off the panel to look at the air filter, I was greeted by what appeared to be a battery. It is about 2" x 3" x 4" which seems very small. If this is the case, should it not power the headlights (at least for a short time) even when the engine isn't running? I noticed on the ignition switch there are three settings off/on/P now when I turn the key to 'P' it kills the engine. Can someone explain to me this situation, I wonder if it is a battery and it is completely dead that could be part of my issue with really hard starts if the bike sits for longer than a week?
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Old 07-31-2012, 07:22 PM   #12700
tntmo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trailraat View Post
I bought what I believe to be a 1992 DR350S and I thought I understood that the kickstart bikes have a capacitor. When I took off the panel to look at the air filter, I was greeted by what appeared to be a battery. It is about 2" x 3" x 4" which seems very small. If this is the case, should it not power the headlights (at least for a short time) even when the engine isn't running? I noticed on the ignition switch there are three settings off/on/P now when I turn the key to 'P' it kills the engine. Can someone explain to me this situation, I wonder if it is a battery and it is completely dead that could be part of my issue with really hard starts if the bike sits for longer than a week?
The 90-93 S models have a battery, supposed to be on the left side just behind the side panel. It sounds like someone has replaced it with a smaller battery, I have done the same on mine. It seems like mine runs the same with a fully charged or a dead battery, so I don't think it will help with the hard start issue.

The ignition switch "P" position is called park. If your battery held a charge, it would light up your tail light and you can remove the key. Not sure why they make that, but a lot of bikes have it.
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Old 07-31-2012, 07:29 PM   #12701
2bold2getold
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tntmo View Post
The 90-93 S models have a battery, supposed to be on the left side just behind the side panel. It sounds like someone has replaced it with a smaller battery, I have done the same on mine. It seems like mine runs the same with a fully charged or a dead battery, so I don't think it will help with the hard start issue.

The ignition switch "P" position is called park. If your battery held a charge, it would light up your tail light and you can remove the key. Not sure why they make that, but a lot of bikes have it.
In Europe, especially England ( fog ) I think there used to be a law that when you parked on the street you had to leave your park lights ( P ) on.
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Old 07-31-2012, 07:48 PM   #12702
Greg Bender
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Airvent View Post
I bought a used 1993 stator that happened to have two coils. I had a high of 76.2mpg heading west through Penns-Ohio.
Wow! Impressive economy! What set up does your 1998 have as far as airbox, muffler, and carb/jets? I can guess from your photo on some of it, but figured I'd better ask for the details.

How difficult was it to swap out coils?

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 07-31-2012, 09:19 PM   #12703
Airvent
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Bender View Post
Wow! Impressive economy! What set up does your 1998 have as far as airbox, muffler, and carb/jets? I can guess from your photo on some of it, but figured I'd better ask for the details.

How difficult was it to swap out coils?

Regards,

Gregory Bender
Stock airbox, jets, exhaust. Mixture screw 3 turns out.

Wasnt too hard. Didn't have to replace the whole stator assembly. Just the bad coil.
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Old 08-01-2012, 02:23 AM   #12704
Rode2Nowhere
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rubberband View Post
Procycle!!!!
Duh.
Forgot that one.

Thanks!
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Old 08-01-2012, 09:05 AM   #12705
MrPulldown
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Just rode into work this working with my new 13 tooth front sprocket. WOW. I had it paired with a 43 rear. The acceleration is impressive. I had it set up 15/43 prior and the increased torque is noticeable. Still can't wheelie it with the throttle, but can almost loft it off the ground, throttle alone. I have a 41 and a 43 rear, as well as a 14 and a 15 front. I interchange all four gear ratios regualrly with the same chain. Now I have the option of adding 13 in the mix. From 15/41 to 13/43 would be a night and day difference.

If you ride dirt or local streets only, and are looking for a bump in the GO department. Consider final drive gearing changes before you do any muffler/carb/airbox mods.

And a note to Bender. Doubt I will be getting my low 70's MPG with this gearing.
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