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Old 08-11-2012, 04:00 PM   #12766
2bold2getold
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Joined: Dec 2011
Location: DFW TX
Oddometer: 1,325
Quote:
Originally Posted by silverwasp View Post
Time for a tune up. Does anyone have helpful tips and tricks on adjusting the valves on a 99SE. Also anyone with link to where I might find a good deal on rear rotor and pads. also... anyone put in an after market speedo.. my original cracked right off of the plastic bottom plate of the unit and now the odometer does not work. thanks in advance
PS if you have canadian links all the better. ;-)
Just checked my valves yesterday. Remove the tank, remove the two plugs on the stator/rotor cover, remove the rocker covers, and I removed the coil for extra clearance. Remove the spark plug and rotate the crank shaft with a socket wrench in the direction the motor runs ( counter clockwise looking from the left side ). Watch the intake valves open then close. Then slowly continue to rotate the crank shaft and watch for the " T " ( top dead center ) on the fly wheel through the small inspection hole. You should be able to feel that all the valves are loose now. Use a feeler gage and check the valve clearance. You should get a slight friction drag with the gage. I set my intake valves on .003", and exhaust on .008". You might want to bend a 8mm 12 point box end wrench and make a sguare drive tool to make it easier, but it can be done without it. Put it back together and your done.
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Old 08-11-2012, 04:25 PM   #12767
2bold2getold
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Joined: Dec 2011
Location: DFW TX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by auto View Post
I have a 92 drs 350 that has been pretty easy starting.All of suddenit became difficult to start.Fresh gas,carb cleaned.I towed it to get it started.Would not rev out clean.Pulled the plug and it was black and suty.Is there any history of igntions going bad on these bikes?In most cases they work or don't work.Not sure about this one.
Thanks for any help.
I recently read all 850 + pages here and didn't notice igniton problems as a trend. Seem to be pretty trouble free compared to other models. Far more carb/jet discussions than ignition. Check all the usual stuff, air cleaner, choke, float, float valve and float valve 0-ring, vent tube, petcock diaphram, if it's the vacume kind.
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Old 08-11-2012, 09:21 PM   #12768
GaThumper
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Joined: Jun 2006
Location: Thumpin' in North GA - headin' for the Smokys
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BAD-MOD View Post
Hey guys do you know of any cool aftermarket chain guides ?
will a chain guide of any rm's or other models fit ????
Jesse sells one, but I heard recently that they weren't shipping out of the US.

http://www.kientech.com/DR350AdjustableChainGuide.htm

Scotts Performance is where I got mine, but it looks like they don't sell them any more. I think it was the same one Jesse sells.

Moose lists one for the '90-'92 DR350. Maybe that would fit all DR350s? or were '90-92 different? I think it would be the right one since the same part number fits the RMX250 and I seem to remember that they are interchangable. The same part also lists for '89-'91 RM 125/250 and a few Kawasaki's, so that cross reference might help find an aftermarket listed for one of the other compatible bikes.

http://assets-static.lemansnet.com/s...hainguides.pdf


Fredette Racing might be the same as Moose, fitment is the same...

http://www.frpoffroad.com/Fredette-R...ductId=-153652

01-013FRP Chain Guide. Fits Kawasaki KX125-250 88-96 KX50088-04, KDX's 89-06. Suzuki RM 89-90 RMX 89-97 DR'S 90-92. Blue
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Old 08-12-2012, 03:27 AM   #12769
auto
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2bold2getold View Post
I recently read all 850 + pages here and didn't notice igniton problems as a trend. Seem to be pretty trouble free compared to other models. Far more carb/jet discussions than ignition. Check all the usual stuff, air cleaner, choke, float, float valve and float valve 0-ring, vent tube, petcock diaphram, if it's the vacume kind.
Kind of hoping it's not a igntion problem.You really read all the dr350 posts!
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Old 08-12-2012, 05:34 AM   #12770
2bold2getold
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Quote:
Originally Posted by auto View Post
Kind of hoping it's not a igntion problem.You really read all the dr350 posts!
Yep, and all 903 pages of the Transalp Mod thread. I'm retired.
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Old 08-12-2012, 05:47 AM   #12771
Greg Bender
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Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Cave Creek, Arizona, United States
Oddometer: 1,088
Quote:
Originally Posted by GaThumper View Post
Fredette Racing might be the same as Moose, fitment is the same...

http://www.frpoffroad.com/Fredette-R...ductId=-153652

01-013FRP Chain Guide. Fits Kawasaki KX125-250 88-96 KX50088-04, KDX's 89-06. Suzuki RM 89-90 RMX 89-97 DR'S 90-92. Blue
The Fredette Racing one came on my DR and I really like it (though I've not compared it to anything else, really). I also like that I can purchase slide blocks from them for not much money. Good stuff :>

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 08-12-2012, 06:20 AM   #12772
Greg Bender
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Shock reservoir bracket

Hi all,

It seems I'm doing a good job of breaking shock reservoir brackets. The breakage is not due to crashes, but rather due to vibration, etc. I'm purchasing a new bracket, but I'm curious if anyone has some tips to help prevent another break. Thanks!

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 08-12-2012, 06:59 AM   #12773
GaThumper
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Location: Thumpin' in North GA - headin' for the Smokys
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Bender View Post
Hi all,

It seems I'm doing a good job of breaking shock reservoir brackets. The breakage is not due to crashes, but rather due to vibration, etc. I'm purchasing a new bracket, but I'm curious if anyone has some tips to help prevent another break. Thanks!

Regards,

Gregory Bender
Only thing I can think of other than a stronger bracket would be adding some rubber washers and/or grommets. I've added rubber isolation to a few fasteners on my DRs. Haven't had a problem with my shock reservoir though, so I haven't looked at that specific mount to see how it would work. On my aftermarket exhaust the hole in the bracket was larger than the bolt so I was able to use a grommet and two robber washers to make a completely isolated mount. On the skid plate I just used a rubber washer and a stainless washer on each side of the plate.
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1996 Suzuki Intruder 1400 (for sale) 1987 Yamaha TT600 (for sale)
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Old 08-12-2012, 07:53 AM   #12774
wangiles
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Dear all. Having problem with my dr350. After about a week of not using the bike, it suddenly won't throttle above 3k rpm. It bogs down to nothing and will die off. I have been experiencing leaking at the top block gasket area. Have top up the engine oil but still same scenario. Any idea? Ultimately, if no solution, would rebuliding the engine the only alternative?

Do advise gurus and many thanks!

Sent from my HTC Flyer P510e using Tapatalk 2
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Old 08-12-2012, 09:13 AM   #12775
slartidbartfast
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Location: Southern Louisiana or Southern England or ...
Oddometer: 4,792
Quote:
Originally Posted by auto View Post
I have a 92 drs 350 that has been pretty easy starting.All of suddenit became difficult to start.Fresh gas,carb cleaned.I towed it to get it started.Would not rev out clean.Pulled the plug and it was black and suty.Is there any history of igntions going bad on these bikes?In most cases they work or don't work.Not sure about this one.
Thanks for any help.
Seems more like a carb issue to me. Float needle valve leaking (rotted O-ring) perhaps? If you have the stock vacuum-operated fuel valve, the diaphragm in it would be a likely culprit too.
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Old 08-12-2012, 09:47 AM   #12776
2bold2getold
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wangiles View Post
Dear all. Having problem with my dr350. After about a week of not using the bike, it suddenly won't throttle above 3k rpm. It bogs down to nothing and will die off. I have been experiencing leaking at the top block gasket area. Have top up the engine oil but still same scenario. Any idea? Ultimately, if no solution, would rebuliding the engine the only alternative?

Do advise gurus and many thanks!

Sent from my HTC Flyer P510e using Tapatalk 2
Kind of hard to tell. Not enough back ground information. Engine rebuild is always a good idea, but probably not needed. Most of this type of problem is carb/fuel related. Start with the basics; fuel, spark, compression. Eliminate the most possible problem and go on to the next. If you run into something you don't understand, ask a question, someone will be able to help.
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Old 08-12-2012, 10:33 AM   #12777
slartidbartfast
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wangiles View Post
Dear all. Having problem with my dr350. After about a week of not using the bike, it suddenly won't throttle above 3k rpm. It bogs down to nothing and will die off. I have been experiencing leaking at the top block gasket area. Have top up the engine oil but still same scenario. Any idea? Ultimately, if no solution, would rebuliding the engine the only alternative?

Do advise gurus and many thanks!

Sent from my HTC Flyer P510e using Tapatalk 2
Noob - fill out your profile and provide more details on your bike. Could be carb. diaphragm failure, fuel starvation, water in fuel, blocked air intake - or not! What year and model, history, modifications, overall condition, recent service work, etc? What things have you checked already? What is your skill level?
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January 2010 New Zealand South Island ride
Summer 2009 UK to Alps ride
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Old 08-12-2012, 12:07 PM   #12778
groundrules
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crankcase breathing

Hi gang,
I've posted a few times recently about sorting out a DR350S (1991, kick) that I'm reviving. In the process of sorting the carb and doing the airbox mod, I noticed that the previous owner had plugged the port on the rubber carb intake boot (between the airbox and the carb). In looking at the parts fiche, is appears this was originally piped to the crankcase breather system. I can't figure out how exactly. My current crankcase breather hose is just kind of a straight shot up from the case and the hose loops around a bracket behind the rear brake reservoir. It terminates in what looks like a one-way valve of some sort. So my questions:

1. is it okay to leave the port on the carb boot plugged and separate from the breather system?
2. is the current breather set-up sufficient sufficient? I'm wondering if breathing is improved by the airflow through the boot, or if it's just an emissions thing, to scrub fumes and re-burn them.

Picture of the carb boot, port in question is right in the center:
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Old 08-12-2012, 12:40 PM   #12779
MrPulldown
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[QUOTE=GaThumper;19339806]Jesse sells one, but I heard recently that they weren't shipping out of the US.

http://www.kientech.com/DR350AdjustableChainGuide.htm



I got that one once and it was too big for my 41 tooth rear. It would have fit a 43 I think
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Old 08-12-2012, 12:42 PM   #12780
MrPulldown
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Bender View Post
Hi all,

It seems I'm doing a good job of breaking shock reservoir brackets. The breakage is not due to crashes, but rather due to vibration, etc. I'm purchasing a new bracket, but I'm curious if anyone has some tips to help prevent another break. Thanks!

Regards,

Gregory Bender

Stop riding so HARD!

Might you be bumping or pulling on the reservoiur. It is in the stock loaction
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