DR350 Thread

[Spad]

Now have a shiny new sig line, thanks to the kinda-shiny-but-not-so-new 1999 DR350SE I picked up yesterday. I still need to do a full head-to-toe on it but it seems like it's in good shape and rides well. Couple of little things to dig into, but that's part of the reason I bought it anyway.

I'll post a pic when I get the time to figure out how to do so easily, but in the meanwhile imagine:

'99 DR350SE (it had the correct forks, BTW)
Pro Moto billet rack and rear brake shark fin,
Roost deflector removed from rear fender, plate moved to under brake light
Acerbis tank
K&N air filter, airbox opened up
Dynojet kit (not sure which jets are in, haven't dug into carb)
Clutch worked on, still needs a little work but old parts came with and don't look bad
Tool tube came with, but not installed - the new luggage rack blocks the old mounts (not sure if that's what I want to use anyway)
Riding on good Michelin Sirac 90/10's, and came with a new set of Pirelli MT32/MT410 knobs (I forget which one is the rear)
Also came with spare filters, o-rings, work stand, and a bunch of other extras

Getting there was a bit of a drive, but I had to make the trip for work anyway (about five hours) and I got to see the bike in the rearview all the way home. I'll apologize to the PO here and now for the potential that I'll put it sideways in a ditch like the pics above.

- Spad

[Chicken Helmet]

The other day I bought a 92 RM250 non operational. I already have the front fork swap almost done on my DR, anything else that might be worthwile in hanging onto? It has Excel wheels but obviously non cush drive. I'm going to part it out but if something is an upgrade for our bikes i'll keep it.

[kobukan]

Originally Posted by Spad

Now have a shiny new sig line, thanks to the kinda-shiny-but-not-so-new 1999 DR350SE I picked up yesterday. I still need to do a full head-to-toe on it but it seems like it's in good shape and rides well. Couple of little things to dig into, but that's part of the reason I bought it anyway.

I'll post a pic when I get the time to figure out how to do so easily, but in the meanwhile imagine:

'99 DR350SE (it had the correct forks, BTW)
Pro Moto billet rack and rear brake shark fin,
Roost deflector removed from rear fender, plate moved to under brake light
Acerbis tank
K&N air filter, airbox opened up
Dynojet kit (not sure which jets are in, haven't dug into carb)
Clutch worked on, still needs a little work but old parts came with and don't look bad
Tool tube came with, but not installed - the new luggage rack blocks the old mounts (not sure if that's what I want to use anyway)
Riding on good Michelin Sirac 90/10's, and came with a new set of Pirelli MT32/MT410 knobs (I forget which one is the rear)
Also came with spare filters, o-rings, work stand, and a bunch of other extras

Getting there was a bit of a drive, but I had to make the trip for work anyway (about five hours) and I got to see the bike in the rearview all the way home. I'll apologize to the PO here and now for the potential that I'll put it sideways in a ditch like the pics above.

- Spad

Sounds like an outstanding machine Spad! They don't get much better than that.

[Wadester]

Originally Posted by Chicken Helmet

The other day I bought a 92 RM250 non operational. I already have the front fork swap almost done on my DR, anything else that might be worthwile in hanging onto? It has Excel wheels but obviously non cush drive. I'm going to part it out but if something is an upgrade for our bikes i'll keep it.

I recall that the swingarm is a better part as well. Don't know if the rear shock exchanges or not.

[dean-o]

Originally Posted by Guy Young

Thank you!!

.

I'm riding a 96 dr350 & have a buell Ulysses now ... you'd think I had a STD when I told my buds about buying the buell.
You still cog'n?
catch u at a rally sometime...

Inmates-whats the best front damping improvement - rebound particularly - for my 96 dr350se?
dean Young
: )

[TinyTim]

Originally Posted by 2bold2getold

Check the other end of the neg cable where it grounds to the motor, just above the cs sprocket. If you can, use jumper cables from your car. 90% of the time , it's the battery, even if it tests good. Some previous posts reference brushes in the starter, but doesn't seem likely.

2bold2getold, Wadeter, Thank you. Turns out to be the brushes. Replaced with an OEM brushes kit. All is good now.

[Chicken Helmet]

Originally Posted by Wadester

I recall that the swingarm is a better part as well. Don't know if the rear shock exchanges or not.

I seem to remember reading peoples opinion was it was better/easier to box the stock swingarm than to adapt the RM swingarm. As for the shock I know some have out DR dirt shocks on their SE's, not sure how close the RM shocks are.

[Krasi]

Originally Posted by .tdc

while shopping around for a tm33, i notice there appears to be two versions? one with the funky top like what came on the dirt model drs, and the other with a more traditional direct-pull style carb top. the "other" doesn't appear to have a power jet,

here are some pictures for reference.
dirt model style tm33 -


the "other" tm33 -


it's easy to see the "other" style doesn't have the power jet, though i've seen ebay listings where the seller says they have an accelerator pump.

does anyone know how to make sure you're getting the right carb when ordering one?

thanks for making everything confusing, mikuni!

Sorry to interfere here, but I recently got me a Beta M4 Supermoto, which uses the DR350 engine. The stock carburetor on it is Mikuni BST33, which as far as I can tell is a normal CV carburetor.

Now, I know that the proper way is to get a pump flat carburetor, but since it's for sort of road use (albeit "hooliganic" one) and budget is tight (and will get tighter when my wife finds out about my plans) I'm contemplating to use only flat slide one. My logic is that flat slide w/o accelerator pump is still better than CV, except for fuel economy of course. Or I'm wrong?

The kind of riding I (plan to) do is twisty back roads with sort of WFO out of a corner and hard breaking into the next one. Or somewhere abouts. I mean not really highway or much cruising at steady, economical pace.

[Greg Bender]

Originally Posted by dean-o

Inmates-whats the best front damping improvement - rebound particularly - for my 96 dr350se?

I am very happy with my racetech gold valve emulator and correct rate springs (all from Cogent Dynamics - great folks; just give them a call).

Here is another option I've never tried:
http://www.kientech.com/Intiminators.htm

I am still looking for a fork brace. Anybody got one????

Regards,

Gregory Bender

[Guy Young]

Originally Posted by dean-o

I'm riding a 96 dr350 & have a buell Ulysses now ... you'd think I had a STD when I told my buds about buying the buell.
You still cog'n?
catch u at a rally sometime...

Inmates-whats the best front damping improvement - rebound particularly - for my 96 dr350se?
dean Young
: )

Hi Dean. Still a member but no longer in any official capacity; just a civilian.
Will be at the Fall Foliage Rally in Matamoras, PA at the end of Oct.
/hijack off

.

[robertguzzi]

Hello,
I have a 1990 Dirt model with no brake light switches. I'm not sure if the stock version had any break lights at all or if the P.O. removed the switch, but I bought an OEM rear break light switch on ebay and was hoping it would be a plug and play type of installation along with a dual filamnet bulb. Am I way off on that? I looked at the bike last time I was with it and there is definitely a spot where the hydraulic banjo bolt threads in, but is there anything crazy I am missing? The bike is in Michigan and I'll be heading up there this weekend, hoping to install the break light.
Thanks in advance for any info.
Rob

[Greg Bender]

Originally Posted by robertguzzi

Hello,
I have a 1990 Dirt model with no brake light switches. I'm not sure if the stock version had any break lights at all or if the P.O. removed the switch, but I bought an OEM rear break light switch on ebay and was hoping it would be a plug and play type of installation along with a dual filamnet bulb. Am I way off on that? I looked at the bike last time I was with it and there is definitely a spot where the hydraulic banjo bolt threads in, but is there anything crazy I am missing? The bike is in Michigan and I'll be heading up there this weekend, hoping to install the break light.
Thanks in advance for any info.
Rob

Hi Rob,

From the factory, the rear brake light was actuated via a mechanical, spring loaded switch positioned near the rear brake pedal. Personally, I really dislike those type of brake light switches. Instead, I fit this hydraulic unit that took the place of the banjo bolt at the rear master cylinder.

Hope this helps!

Regards,

Gregory Bender

[2bold2getold]

Originally Posted by robertguzzi

Hello,
I have a 1990 Dirt model with no brake light switches. I'm not sure if the stock version had any break lights at all or if the P.O. removed the switch, but I bought an OEM rear break light switch on ebay and was hoping it would be a plug and play type of installation along with a dual filamnet bulb. Am I way off on that? I looked at the bike last time I was with it and there is definitely a spot where the hydraulic banjo bolt threads in, but is there anything crazy I am missing? The bike is in Michigan and I'll be heading up there this weekend, hoping to install the break light.
Thanks in advance for any info.
Rob

I'd be supprised if it's "plug and play". You're probably going to have to run wires and maybe change the bulb socket to 1157 from an auto parts store. It's probably AC (no rectifier). LEDs won't work on AC, but 1157 will. It's not hard, did it on a KLX300. Sense Greg's done it, He can shed some light.

[braapp]

Has anyone replaced their gauge cluster lights (Neutral, turn signal indicator, speedo, tach) with LEDs?
I have a 94 DR250S and I can barely see when the lights are on during the day. It would be nice to get a brighter bulb.

[Greg Bender]

Originally Posted by 2bold2getold

I'd be supprised if it's "plug and play". You're probably going to have to run wires and maybe change the bulb socket to 1157 from an auto parts store. It's probably AC (no rectifier). LEDs won't work on AC, but 1157 will. It's not hard, did it on a KLX300. Sense Greg's done it, He can shed some light.

Mine came from the PO with an 1157 bulb that fit right in the socket (socket appears to be original). Wiring was already in place. All I did was swap out switches.