ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Thumpers
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 08-23-2012, 01:13 PM   #12871
Spad
Adventurer
 
Spad's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2007
Location: Vermont
Oddometer: 97
Now have a shiny new sig line, thanks to the kinda-shiny-but-not-so-new 1999 DR350SE I picked up yesterday. I still need to do a full head-to-toe on it but it seems like it's in good shape and rides well. Couple of little things to dig into, but that's part of the reason I bought it anyway.

I'll post a pic when I get the time to figure out how to do so easily, but in the meanwhile imagine:

'99 DR350SE (it had the correct forks, BTW)
Pro Moto billet rack and rear brake shark fin,
Roost deflector removed from rear fender, plate moved to under brake light
Acerbis tank
K&N air filter, airbox opened up
Dynojet kit (not sure which jets are in, haven't dug into carb)
Clutch worked on, still needs a little work but old parts came with and don't look bad
Tool tube came with, but not installed - the new luggage rack blocks the old mounts (not sure if that's what I want to use anyway)
Riding on good Michelin Sirac 90/10's, and came with a new set of Pirelli MT32/MT410 knobs (I forget which one is the rear)
Also came with spare filters, o-rings, work stand, and a bunch of other extras

Getting there was a bit of a drive, but I had to make the trip for work anyway (about five hours) and I got to see the bike in the rearview all the way home. I'll apologize to the PO here and now for the potential that I'll put it sideways in a ditch like the pics above.

- Spad
__________________
___________
06 Wee Strom
82 CM450E
99 DR350SE
Spad is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-23-2012, 05:49 PM   #12872
Chicken Helmet
I'm A Stumper™
 
Chicken Helmet's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Jacksonville Fl
Oddometer: 4,880
The other day I bought a 92 RM250 non operational. I already have the front fork swap almost done on my DR, anything else that might be worthwile in hanging onto? It has Excel wheels but obviously non cush drive. I'm going to part it out but if something is an upgrade for our bikes i'll keep it.
__________________
1988 KLR 650 Bare frame,swing arm & title For Sale PM for Details 2009 KLR 650 1994 DR 350
Quote:
Originally Posted by WaterWheel View Post
From what I've heard, riding a DR feels just like riding a KLR except you're head doesn't sway left and right constantly scanning the ditches for aluminum cans.
Chicken Helmet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-23-2012, 05:58 PM   #12873
kobukan
almost gnarly
 
kobukan's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2009
Location: Saco ME
Oddometer: 1,698
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spad View Post
Now have a shiny new sig line, thanks to the kinda-shiny-but-not-so-new 1999 DR350SE I picked up yesterday. I still need to do a full head-to-toe on it but it seems like it's in good shape and rides well. Couple of little things to dig into, but that's part of the reason I bought it anyway.

I'll post a pic when I get the time to figure out how to do so easily, but in the meanwhile imagine:

'99 DR350SE (it had the correct forks, BTW)
Pro Moto billet rack and rear brake shark fin,
Roost deflector removed from rear fender, plate moved to under brake light
Acerbis tank
K&N air filter, airbox opened up
Dynojet kit (not sure which jets are in, haven't dug into carb)
Clutch worked on, still needs a little work but old parts came with and don't look bad
Tool tube came with, but not installed - the new luggage rack blocks the old mounts (not sure if that's what I want to use anyway)
Riding on good Michelin Sirac 90/10's, and came with a new set of Pirelli MT32/MT410 knobs (I forget which one is the rear)
Also came with spare filters, o-rings, work stand, and a bunch of other extras

Getting there was a bit of a drive, but I had to make the trip for work anyway (about five hours) and I got to see the bike in the rearview all the way home. I'll apologize to the PO here and now for the potential that I'll put it sideways in a ditch like the pics above.

- Spad
Sounds like an outstanding machine Spad! They don't get much better than that.
__________________
'04 R1150GS, '97 R1100GS, '99 DR350, '02 DR650, '03 DR650
A Few Days Solo to Copper Canyon
A Maine Rider’s Arizona Day Trips
A Few Days Solo in Baja
kobukan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-23-2012, 07:21 PM   #12874
Wadester
Rides a dirty bike
 
Wadester's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2008
Location: 'Cruces
Oddometer: 1,899
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chicken Helmet View Post
The other day I bought a 92 RM250 non operational. I already have the front fork swap almost done on my DR, anything else that might be worthwile in hanging onto? It has Excel wheels but obviously non cush drive. I'm going to part it out but if something is an upgrade for our bikes i'll keep it.
I recall that the swingarm is a better part as well. Don't know if the rear shock exchanges or not.
__________________
Two roads diverged in a wood, and / I took the one less traveled by, and / now where the hell am I?

This isn't a "you're doing it wrong" topic. (Originally Posted by Human Ills, 7/1/14)
Wadester is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-23-2012, 10:12 PM   #12875
dean-o
Dabs often
 
Joined: Sep 2005
Location: old hickory,tn
Oddometer: 843
good to see ya guy

Quote:
Originally Posted by Guy Young View Post
Thank you!!

.
I'm riding a 96 dr350 & have a buell Ulysses now ... you'd think I had a STD when I told my buds about buying the buell.
You still cog'n?
catch u at a rally sometime...

Inmates-whats the best front damping improvement - rebound particularly - for my 96 dr350se?
dean Young
: )
dean-o is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-23-2012, 11:43 PM   #12876
TinyTim
Noob
 
TinyTim's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2007
Location: Singapore
Oddometer: 57
DR 350SE - Cannot Start

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2bold2getold View Post
Check the other end of the neg cable where it grounds to the motor, just above the cs sprocket. If you can, use jumper cables from your car. 90% of the time , it's the battery, even if it tests good. Some previous posts reference brushes in the starter, but doesn't seem likely.
2bold2getold, Wadeter, Thank you. Turns out to be the brushes. Replaced with an OEM brushes kit. All is good now.
__________________
Go ride while you can.
TinyTim is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-24-2012, 03:46 AM   #12877
Chicken Helmet
I'm A Stumper™
 
Chicken Helmet's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Jacksonville Fl
Oddometer: 4,880
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wadester View Post
I recall that the swingarm is a better part as well. Don't know if the rear shock exchanges or not.
I seem to remember reading peoples opinion was it was better/easier to box the stock swingarm than to adapt the RM swingarm. As for the shock I know some have out DR dirt shocks on their SE's, not sure how close the RM shocks are.
__________________
1988 KLR 650 Bare frame,swing arm & title For Sale PM for Details 2009 KLR 650 1994 DR 350
Quote:
Originally Posted by WaterWheel View Post
From what I've heard, riding a DR feels just like riding a KLR except you're head doesn't sway left and right constantly scanning the ditches for aluminum cans.
Chicken Helmet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-24-2012, 05:03 AM   #12878
Krasi
Adventurer
 
Joined: Nov 2011
Location: Sofia, Bulgaria
Oddometer: 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by .tdc View Post
while shopping around for a tm33, i notice there appears to be two versions? one with the funky top like what came on the dirt model drs, and the other with a more traditional direct-pull style carb top. the "other" doesn't appear to have a power jet,

here are some pictures for reference.
dirt model style tm33 -


the "other" tm33 -


it's easy to see the "other" style doesn't have the power jet, though i've seen ebay listings where the seller says they have an accelerator pump.

does anyone know how to make sure you're getting the right carb when ordering one?

thanks for making everything confusing, mikuni!
Sorry to interfere here, but I recently got me a Beta M4 Supermoto, which uses the DR350 engine. The stock carburetor on it is Mikuni BST33, which as far as I can tell is a normal CV carburetor.

Now, I know that the proper way is to get a pump flat carburetor, but since it's for sort of road use (albeit "hooliganic" one) and budget is tight (and will get tighter when my wife finds out about my plans) I'm contemplating to use only flat slide one. My logic is that flat slide w/o accelerator pump is still better than CV, except for fuel economy of course. Or I'm wrong?

The kind of riding I (plan to) do is twisty back roads with sort of WFO out of a corner and hard breaking into the next one. Or somewhere abouts. I mean not really highway or much cruising at steady, economical pace.
Krasi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-24-2012, 06:51 AM   #12879
Greg Bender
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Cave Creek, Arizona, United States
Oddometer: 1,144
Quote:
Originally Posted by dean-o View Post
Inmates-whats the best front damping improvement - rebound particularly - for my 96 dr350se?
I am very happy with my racetech gold valve emulator and correct rate springs (all from Cogent Dynamics - great folks; just give them a call).

Here is another option I've never tried:
http://www.kientech.com/Intiminators.htm

I am still looking for a fork brace. Anybody got one????

Regards,

Gregory Bender
Greg Bender is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-24-2012, 06:55 AM   #12880
Guy Young
Beastly Adventurer
 
Guy Young's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2006
Location: North Chesterfield, VA
Oddometer: 8,398
Quote:
Originally Posted by dean-o View Post
I'm riding a 96 dr350 & have a buell Ulysses now ... you'd think I had a STD when I told my buds about buying the buell.
You still cog'n?
catch u at a rally sometime...

Inmates-whats the best front damping improvement - rebound particularly - for my 96 dr350se?
dean Young
: )
Hi Dean. Still a member but no longer in any official capacity; just a civilian.
Will be at the Fall Foliage Rally in Matamoras, PA at the end of Oct.
/hijack off

.
__________________
GB Young Services, LLC
Garage Project: http://gbyoung2.smugmug.com/Family/Garage-Project
Guy Young is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-24-2012, 09:45 AM   #12881
robertguzzi
n00b
 
Joined: Jul 2012
Location: chicago, IL and sometimes Lawton, MI
Oddometer: 2
Brake Light install on dirt model

Hello,
I have a 1990 Dirt model with no brake light switches. I'm not sure if the stock version had any break lights at all or if the P.O. removed the switch, but I bought an OEM rear break light switch on ebay and was hoping it would be a plug and play type of installation along with a dual filamnet bulb. Am I way off on that? I looked at the bike last time I was with it and there is definitely a spot where the hydraulic banjo bolt threads in, but is there anything crazy I am missing? The bike is in Michigan and I'll be heading up there this weekend, hoping to install the break light.
Thanks in advance for any info.
Rob
robertguzzi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-24-2012, 09:54 AM   #12882
Greg Bender
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Cave Creek, Arizona, United States
Oddometer: 1,144
Quote:
Originally Posted by robertguzzi View Post
Hello,
I have a 1990 Dirt model with no brake light switches. I'm not sure if the stock version had any break lights at all or if the P.O. removed the switch, but I bought an OEM rear break light switch on ebay and was hoping it would be a plug and play type of installation along with a dual filamnet bulb. Am I way off on that? I looked at the bike last time I was with it and there is definitely a spot where the hydraulic banjo bolt threads in, but is there anything crazy I am missing? The bike is in Michigan and I'll be heading up there this weekend, hoping to install the break light.
Thanks in advance for any info.
Rob
Hi Rob,

From the factory, the rear brake light was actuated via a mechanical, spring loaded switch positioned near the rear brake pedal. Personally, I really dislike those type of brake light switches. Instead, I fit this hydraulic unit that took the place of the banjo bolt at the rear master cylinder.

Hope this helps!

Regards,

Gregory Bender
Greg Bender is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-24-2012, 12:55 PM   #12883
2bold2getold
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Dec 2011
Location: DFW TX
Oddometer: 1,557
Quote:
Originally Posted by robertguzzi View Post
Hello,
I have a 1990 Dirt model with no brake light switches. I'm not sure if the stock version had any break lights at all or if the P.O. removed the switch, but I bought an OEM rear break light switch on ebay and was hoping it would be a plug and play type of installation along with a dual filamnet bulb. Am I way off on that? I looked at the bike last time I was with it and there is definitely a spot where the hydraulic banjo bolt threads in, but is there anything crazy I am missing? The bike is in Michigan and I'll be heading up there this weekend, hoping to install the break light.
Thanks in advance for any info.
Rob
I'd be supprised if it's "plug and play". You're probably going to have to run wires and maybe change the bulb socket to 1157 from an auto parts store. It's probably AC (no rectifier). LEDs won't work on AC, but 1157 will. It's not hard, did it on a KLX300. Sense Greg's done it, He can shed some light.
2bold2getold is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-24-2012, 01:22 PM   #12884
braapp
n00b
 
braapp's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2012
Location: Lakewood, CA
Oddometer: 1
Gauge LED lights

Has anyone replaced their gauge cluster lights (Neutral, turn signal indicator, speedo, tach) with LEDs?
I have a 94 DR250S and I can barely see when the lights are on during the day. It would be nice to get a brighter bulb.
braapp is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-24-2012, 02:12 PM   #12885
Greg Bender
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Cave Creek, Arizona, United States
Oddometer: 1,144
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2bold2getold View Post
I'd be supprised if it's "plug and play". You're probably going to have to run wires and maybe change the bulb socket to 1157 from an auto parts store. It's probably AC (no rectifier). LEDs won't work on AC, but 1157 will. It's not hard, did it on a KLX300. Sense Greg's done it, He can shed some light.
Mine came from the PO with an 1157 bulb that fit right in the socket (socket appears to be original). Wiring was already in place. All I did was swap out switches.
Greg Bender is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 11:45 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014