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Old 08-30-2012, 04:55 PM   #12946
Atom00
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Joined: Jun 2009
Location: New York
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Cylinders for less

Hey guys, not trying to get rid of my stuff or make a fast buck or anything, I just noticed there's a couple cylinder and piston sets on ebay right now for cheap. They are big bores and would definitely save you some cash if you need a rebuild or anything along with adding some power to the DR. Happy trails
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Old 08-30-2012, 04:57 PM   #12947
silverwasp
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New rear rotor is fat and new pads make it very tight

I just replaced my rear rotor with the fatty from Argentina... and new pads makes it a tight fit. Is there a way to adjust the calipers so they are a bit looser?
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Old 08-30-2012, 05:18 PM   #12948
TheOtherBart
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Location: DeKalb County, Illinois
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silverwasp View Post
I just replaced my rear rotor with the fatty from Argentina... and new pads makes it a tight fit. Is there a way to adjust the calipers so they are a bit looser?
Did you make sure the pistons were pushed all the way back into the caliper? Not much you can do beyond that.
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Old 08-30-2012, 05:37 PM   #12949
MrPulldown
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Location: Truckee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silverwasp View Post
I just replaced my rear rotor with the fatty from Argentina... and new pads makes it a tight fit. Is there a way to adjust the calipers so they are a bit looser?
Sander
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Old 08-30-2012, 05:41 PM   #12950
Greg Bender
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Location: Cave Creek, Arizona, United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silverwasp View Post
I just replaced my rear rotor with the fatty from Argentina... and new pads makes it a tight fit. Is there a way to adjust the calipers so they are a bit looser?

I didn't have any problem with the rear, only the front. Did you let out some fluid from the reservoir?

http://thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/d...sc_replacement

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 08-30-2012, 05:56 PM   #12951
Greg Bender
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Originally Posted by 2bold2getold View Post
Interesting, from what I've read, LEDs are DC and polairity specific. I think most are around 3VDC and must have voltage controls. But maybe thats wrong.
My order arrived from superbrightleds.com today and the LED bulb works great in the AC only charging system on my 1993 DR350. I'm not sure how or why, but it works just fine :>

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 08-30-2012, 06:02 PM   #12952
Greg Bender
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Originally Posted by Greg Bender View Post
To the best of my knowledge, yes. You want a pair only slightly used? I'll gladly sell you a front and a rear I tried (I don't like them at all for the type of riding I do).

PM if interested...I need to toss them on CL here locally, too.

Regards,

Gregory Bender
FYI...tires are sold. I do have a few more DR350 parts I'm selling. Have a look here if you are interested:

http://thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/f...arts_dr350.htm

Thanks!

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 08-30-2012, 09:28 PM   #12953
silverwasp
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Rear Rotor malfunction

Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Bender View Post
I didn't have any problem with the rear, only the front. Did you let out some fluid from the reservoir?

http://thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/d...sc_replacement

Regards,

Gregory Bender
Hey Greg. there was something odd about the rear I purchased. the original Suz bolts did not fit correctly. the rotor was only a hairs difference in width but the bolts did not fit correctly. We ended up drilling them out. Otherwise the rotors were identical. What gives. Was this for a different year? Well we installed it but the the rotor rubs so hard on the spoke side pad that it will not turn... well just barely. My bike is a 99 SE which I specified when I ordered the part... Is there any difference in the years in the calipers and rotors? Also what do you know about how the calipers work? does the spoke side pad move or is it stationary. We have bled the fluid a bit and such. but still no luck... suggestions.?
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Old 08-30-2012, 10:17 PM   #12954
GaThumper
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Location: Thumpin' in North GA - headin' for the Smokys
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Airvent View Post
Tool tube
http://www.agrisupply.com/Large-Manu...70/&sid=&eid=/

Clamp
http://www.jegs.com/i/Dynomax/289/33273/10002/-1

This is by far, the best way to mount it IMHO. Ive lost a tube trying other ways. One bolt hole lines right up, the other I have going through one of the holes with a washer and nut.

Thank You! Looks like a good mount. I found them also on Ebay and ordered one to try on mine.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/310383121644#ht_1740wt_1018
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Old 08-31-2012, 02:31 AM   #12955
tkent02
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Originally Posted by smc5735 View Post

I bought the bike almost two months ago and have started it about 2 times a week and had it idle for 10 minutes because Its not registered yet.


any advice?
Quit starting it!
That's really bad for any motorcycle.
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Old 08-31-2012, 04:26 AM   #12956
devo2002
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If its the same tank of gas for two months that could be part of the problem there, it's going bad. Get some seafoam or even the 3 dollar bottle of valvoline at a gas station and dump her in.

I to need to blip the throttle to start the last 2 months. I have a feeling it's the carbs but I'm just getting through the season without tearing into it, l wait until winter.
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Old 08-31-2012, 07:14 AM   #12957
Greg Bender
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Location: Cave Creek, Arizona, United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silverwasp View Post
Hey Greg. there was something odd about the rear I purchased. the original Suz bolts did not fit correctly. the rotor was only a hairs difference in width but the bolts did not fit correctly. We ended up drilling them out. Otherwise the rotors were identical. What gives. Was this for a different year? Well we installed it but the the rotor rubs so hard on the spoke side pad that it will not turn... well just barely. My bike is a 99 SE which I specified when I ordered the part... Is there any difference in the years in the calipers and rotors? Also what do you know about how the calipers work? does the spoke side pad move or is it stationary. We have bled the fluid a bit and such. but still no luck... suggestions.?
Weird, how does your disc compare to mine?
http://thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/d...sc_replacement

I took a stroll through the spare parts catalogs and found two different part numbers for the rear brake disc. Here's the summary:

Dirt Models L, M, N, P show part number: 69211-03D01
Dirt Models R, S, T show part number: 69211-03D01; but then also show a superseded part number: 69211-03D10
Dirt Models V, W, X show part number: 69211-03D10

Street Models L, M, N, P, R, S show part number: 69211-03D01
Street Model T show part number: 69211-03D10
Street Models V, W, X show part number: 69211-03D10

There are also a bunch of differences in the rear calipers. The differences appear small, but I really can't say for sure.

When the new front disc I put on drug on the pads, I simply returned it. There was no way I was going to deal with removing pad material to make it fit. I suppose a person could always have the disc surfaced. Probably a lot cheaper that way than purchasing a ~$180 disc.

Sorry I can't shed any more light on the subject.

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 08-31-2012, 08:58 AM   #12958
2bold2getold
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silverwasp View Post
I just replaced my rear rotor with the fatty from Argentina... and new pads makes it a tight fit. Is there a way to adjust the calipers so they are a bit looser?
The caliper is not mechanically adjustable. Push the piston all the way back in cylinder. Sometimes you need some channel locks for this. You might have to take some fluid out of the reservoir to make room. Some times it's hart to get all the way in because of old fluid build up in the cylinder, might have to clean it. The caliper is self centering. It moves side to side on 2 pins. Check to see if it moves freely. Could be stuck---dirt build up. IIRC There is some special grease for thoes pins. The rotor could be to wide, but if you got it in there, and it moves, it's got to be close. Pads pushing on one side more than the other indicate side to side movement is off, or rotor off set to one side---dished, spacing,etc.
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Old 08-31-2012, 01:29 PM   #12959
Ghostyman
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Location: LA face with the Oakland booty
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Airvent View Post
I have snapped the tool mounting point off. A good weld has held since.

I also have snapped the subframe due to 60+lbs of camping gear and full speed ride on the white rim trail in Utah
I'm leaning more toward hose clamping the tube in front of the bash plate. It would keep the weight lower and the mount would be secure. It looks like one of the 12" tubes would be a good length. I have a 15" welding rod holder that could almost be used as highway pegs.

Any drawbacks to that mounting place? It could be damaged by rocks but it protects the oil hoses from them at the same time.
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Old 08-31-2012, 03:43 PM   #12960
devo2002
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I think it depends on your riding. Fire/dirt roads yes, but if you are riding through rock gardens then I'd say no because the tube is only plastic and a rock will just break the thing into pieces. You would have to mismanage a section to have a rock hit the tool tube in that spot but it could happen, especially if you are a noob like me

Besides water/food, tools are your most important survival tools and if you are busy navigating through a tough section you may not notice its broken until you've gone a little bit. I'd hate to walk around looking for my socket wrench as the sun is going down.
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