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Old 08-31-2012, 04:10 PM   #12961
Greg Bender
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Location: Cave Creek, Arizona, United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by devo2002 View Post
I think it depends on your riding. Fire/dirt roads yes, but if you are riding through rock gardens then I'd say no because the tube is only plastic and a rock will just break the thing into pieces. You would have to mismanage a section to have a rock hit the tool tube in that spot but it could happen, especially if you are a noob like me

Besides water/food, tools are your most important survival tools and if you are busy navigating through a tough section you may not notice its broken until you've gone a little bit. I'd hate to walk around looking for my socket wrench as the sun is going down.
That is where I am at, too. That location is probably fine most of the time, but when it isn't is when you are most likely to need it. Neither am I super comfortable with the stock tool location on the street models. On my dirt model, I use dirt-bike-gear bags that are bolted or strapped to the bike. Very good quality stuff and I have zero worries about losing tools out in the desert.

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Old 08-31-2012, 04:17 PM   #12962
devo2002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Bender View Post
On my dirt model, I use dirt-bike-gear bags that are bolted or strapped to the bike. Very good quality stuff and I have zero worries about losing tools out in the desert.

Regards,

Gregory Bender

Hmm, do you have this one? It looks handy and I've been looking to put something there, but considering I have the tube $50 might be a bit much.
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Old 08-31-2012, 05:00 PM   #12963
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rear caliper dismantle and clean

Has anyone pulled their rear caliper apart? Yes it should have some play in it about an inch so I am told. We are having a heck of a time getting the two pins out that have the rubber boots on them... any suggestions? one has a nut and one does not...however the one that does not have a nut also looks like it has a thread on it in the expanded diagram. How do I get it out?

Anyone??
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Old 08-31-2012, 05:01 PM   #12964
Greg Bender
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Quote:
Originally Posted by devo2002 View Post
Hmm, do you have this one? It looks handy and I've been looking to put something there, but considering I have the tube $50 might be a bit much.
Yep, I have that one, the spare inner tube bag, and the rear fender bag.
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Old 08-31-2012, 05:08 PM   #12965
2bold2getold
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Dr350 big yellow tool tube/rain suit holder/spare tube & pump holder/spare parts holder/tow rope holder/back rest.

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Old 08-31-2012, 05:22 PM   #12966
slartidbartfast
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silverwasp View Post
Has anyone pulled their rear caliper apart? Yes it should have some play in it about an inch so I am told. We are having a heck of a time getting the two pins out that have the rubber boots on them... any suggestions? one has a nut and one does not...however the one that does not have a nut also looks like it has a thread on it in the expanded diagram. How do I get it out?

Anyone??
I did it a couple of years ago but don't clearly remember all the disassembly details so there could be errors in the following:

I'm not sure the sliding pins need to come out (not both of them anyway). One is attached to the carrier and the other to the caliper. The second pin has a hex socket in the end of it. I think that once you have the boots disconnected from the caliper, the sliding part (caliper) simply pulls away from the bracket/carrier. IIRC, silicone grease is recommended as the lubricant for these parts upon reassembly. If you do remove the pins, they need to be reassembled with loctite on the threads.
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Old 08-31-2012, 05:29 PM   #12967
2bold2getold
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silverwasp View Post
Has anyone pulled their rear caliper apart? Yes it should have some play in it about an inch so I am told. We are having a heck of a time getting the two pins out that have the rubber boots on them... any suggestions? one has a nut and one does not...however the one that does not have a nut also looks like it has a thread on it in the expanded diagram. How do I get it out?

Anyone??
Don't know why you would need to remove both pins, unless they're damaged. The one with the nut slides into the caliper. The other one slides into the caliper holder.Fortunately, I haven't needed to take mine apart yet, but others I've done work like this. Remove the one with the nut, rotate up and pull or pry the caliper away from the holder. It should come right off in your hand, free floating. The rotor and pads hold it in place. Don't know about an inch of play, that sounds like a lot.
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Old 09-01-2012, 08:14 AM   #12968
mustangwagz
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Greg, (Or anyone for this matter..lol) Any idea where i can find a new one of these that'll fit my 93 DR350S?


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Old 09-01-2012, 08:37 AM   #12969
Greg Bender
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mustangwagz View Post
Greg, (Or anyone for this matter..lol) Any idea where i can find a new one of these that'll fit my 93 DR350S?


I haven't a clue...but I'll make you a great deal on that broken one. Just needs a bit of 2-part epoxy :>

http://thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/f...arts_dr350.htm

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 09-01-2012, 09:18 PM   #12970
MadChap
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Tool & Tube Storage

I've had my lower ABS tool tube on for several years and thousands of miles. I ride in the rocks of Central Oregon and have never hit it hard enough to break it. I love that the weight of the tools is down low. If I was hopping logs it might hit on occasion, but I rarely do that.

On my fender is a cheap Tusk fender bag. However I mount it sideways and run the straps around the forks. This prevents it from coming off it the clips unhook from the fender. It is rock solid and doesn't move. It also moves the weight back towards the mounting area of the fender and thus bounces less.

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Old 09-03-2012, 12:55 PM   #12971
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D606 tire wear

Hi, all. I'm doing a weeklong 1,000 - 1,500 mile DS ride on the dr350 through VT/NH/ME at the end of the month and it's look over the bike time. One issue I haven't had to deal with yet is knobby wear....

1: This is my first set of knobbies, D606's. They have about 350 miles on them now with about 40% gravel/pavement and 60% pavement mix. I don't run them hard, but I will have gear, so I'm wondering if they will go the distance. How long has yours lasted on the 350? I'll be doing mostly gravel/rocky dirt with some street. Thanks.

Edit: It also has 8,000 miles on the chain that could be in better shape, my guess is original 99'. It is in spec at the 7 tightness level on the rear axle out 9. Will it also last?
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Old 09-03-2012, 01:25 PM   #12972
slartidbartfast
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Quote:
Originally Posted by devo2002 View Post
Hi, all. I'm doing a weeklong 1,000 - 1,500 mile DS ride on the dr350 through VT/NH/ME at the end of the month and it's look over the bike time. One issue I haven't had to deal with yet is knobby wear....

1: This is my first set of knobbies, D606's. They have about 350 miles on them now with about 40% gravel/pavement and 60% pavement mix. I don't run them hard, but I will have gear, so I'm wondering if they will go the distance. How long has yours lasted on the 350? I'll be doing mostly gravel/rocky dirt with some street. Thanks.

Edit: It also has 8,000 miles on the chain that could be in better shape, my guess is original 99'. It is in spec at the 7 tightness level on the rear axle out 9. Will it also last?
Tires should go the distance without any problem. Harder to assess chain wear - Is the front sprocket hooked? Can you pull the chain off the middle of the rear sprocket far enough to get a pencil in the gap? If the answer to either of these is yes, plan on replacing chain and both sprockets before you leave. Regardless, plan on taking a can of chain lube and using most of it up.

Do you know how to adjust the chain with weight on the bike to find its tightest spot (sprockets and swingarm pivot in a straight line)? Also make sure you know how to check the DR's oil level and take a small container of oil along just in case.

Have fun!
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Old 09-03-2012, 02:12 PM   #12973
devo2002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slartidbartfast View Post
Do you know how to adjust the chain with weight on the bike to find its tightest spot (sprockets and swingarm pivot in a straight line)? Also make sure you know how to check the DR's oil level and take a small container of oil along just in case.

Have fun!
Thanks. I'll be putting on a 14t front sprocket with only 200 miles on it, the rear is fine and I can definitely not get a pencil between sprocket/chain.

I'm good on the oil, just did a change, and will carry a small container. But I don't know how to find the tightest spot with weight on the bike.
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Old 09-03-2012, 07:46 PM   #12974
PK
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Re: tool tubes

I had one mounted to the front of my skid plate for my trip to Colorado last month. After the first day of riding, I removed it.
It had multiple skid marks from contact with the front tire. We had ended the day riding Tincup, Hancock, and Tomichi passes - lots of big rocks.

Contacting any harder than I did would have locked the front and thrown me forward.

Nice idea, and if you aren't fully compressing the front, you probably won't have an issue. But I did.
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Old 09-04-2012, 03:53 AM   #12975
cwc
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Originally Posted by devo2002 View Post
I can definitely not get a pencil between sprocket/chain.
But I don't know how to find the tightest spot with weight on the bike.
If your chain is questionable you need to consider the cost of a new one versus the cost and aggravation of replacing it on the road in the area where you will be traveling.

How to adjust your chain.

http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/341...st-your-chain/
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