ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Thumpers
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 09-12-2012, 10:03 AM   #13051
MrPulldown
Beastly Adventurer
 
MrPulldown's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2009
Location: Truckee
Oddometer: 2,928
Went to ride to work this morning. Go to turn on the gas and it is already on (since last friday). Whole garage smells like gas (pushed bike in last night). Hit the starter, half a crank and it hydro locks. Fuck it. Hit the magic button a few more times and it turns over. A few more cycles and it fires. Oil smelled ok. Gas in exhaust. Decided to drive my car to work.

It is alot harder to remember to turn off the gas, when the petcock lever is broken, and you have to use a pair of pilers to turn your gas on/off. Also no back up of the second petcock when only one is plumbed.

Got a brass T coming today.

MrPulldown screwed with this post 09-12-2012 at 12:40 PM
MrPulldown is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-12-2012, 11:50 AM   #13052
nashopolis
Studly Adventurer
 
nashopolis's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2006
Location: Nashville, Tenn
Oddometer: 716
Quote:
Originally Posted by mpnoffi View Post
Hi Nashopolis. I live in Hendersonville, but I work in Nashville everyday. I'm certainly no pro, but enjoy wrenching on these old bikes. I have a 1995 DR350se to which I've added all if not more of the mods from Keintech that you've mentioned here. If you need a hand...or tool...I'd be glad to lend it. If not, we should hook up for a ride...on or off road.
mpnoffi
Well how about that! I'm from Hendersonville! I'll PM you
nashopolis is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-12-2012, 06:27 PM   #13053
mustangwagz
Gnarly Adventurer
 
mustangwagz's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Western PA
Oddometer: 242
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPulldown View Post
Went to ride to work this morning. Go to turn on the gas and it is already on (since last friday). Whole garage smells like gas (pushed bike in last night). Hit the starter, half a crank and it hydro locks. Fuck it. Hit the magic button a few more times and it turns over. A few more cycles and it fires. Oil smelled ok. Gas in exhaust. Decided to drive my car to work.

It is alot harder to remember to turn off the gas, when the petcock lever is broken, and you have to use a pair of pilers to turn your gas on/off. Also no back up of the second petcock when only one is plumbed.

Got a brass T coming today.
YIKES! i'd change oil anyhow if it was mine. lol i seen similar on a quad one time..had so much gas in the oil that it was blowing it outta the upper blower hose on top the trans...when i pulled the oil dip stick, it shot out about 3 gallons into my garage and all over me..i shit my self on that one..i have NEVER seen that happend till then. now i am that much smarter in diagnosing stuff. LOL
__________________
-WagZ-
'93 DR350S

My attempt to roundup Local Riders..
https://www.facebook.com/dualsportridingwesternpa
mustangwagz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-12-2012, 10:05 PM   #13054
2bold2getold
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Dec 2011
Location: DFW TX
Oddometer: 1,566
Quote:
Originally Posted by mustangwagz View Post
YIKES! i'd change oil anyhow if it was mine. lol i seen similar on a quad one time..had so much gas in the oil that it was blowing it outta the upper blower hose on top the trans...when i pulled the oil dip stick, it shot out about 3 gallons into my garage and all over me..i shit my self on that one..i have NEVER seen that happend till then. now i am that much smarter in diagnosing stuff. LOL
Yup, might want to change the oil, although I've seen lots of motors fill the crank case with gas and most of the time, no harm if you get it changed soon enough. Sure cleans the insides up. The old air cooled VWs used to do it just by running with the electric choke half closed. They ran ok and most people didn't know it till they checked their oil. If you can figure a way to check the oil level accurately, and it's not over full, it's probably ok. I'm going to have to quit using Valveoline because I can't see it on the stick. Think I'll switch to Kendall GT1, best oil I know of. Seen it save a few motors run after the cooling belt broke, and the motor over heated and locked up. Let it cool down and sometimes it would start up and run --- for a while longer. Anytime they get hot enough to lock up, it's gota hurt it some. Might want to fix that float valve (needle and seat and/or float). It ought to shut the gas flow off even if you leave the petcock open a long time. If you gotta float valve that leaks, even a little, sooner or later it's gonna cause running problems, or fill the crank case.
2bold2getold is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 09-12-2012, 10:31 PM   #13055
nashopolis
Studly Adventurer
 
nashopolis's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2006
Location: Nashville, Tenn
Oddometer: 716
dr250 jetting?

Just wanted to post a follow up. to recap I have what feels like a misfire going on 3/4 throttle and up on my dr250. Looked at the airbox mod the P.Owner did and the whole top had been cut off (not unexpectedly). So as an experiment in changing the air-fuel mix without screwing around with the jet and needle this afternoon I taped a piece of a milk jug over half of the airbox. In my unscientific experiment I guessed that I should cover up half of the hole and i could adjust from there.

Just got back from a quick test ride. If the tape held I can say these things changed.

Presumed misfire seems to have been cleared up! I can now pin the throttle and get smooth power all the way to the redline. There seems to be less popping on decel and my seat-o-the pants dyno tells me the bike is pulling harder! Yea!
Milk jug did a body good!!!!!

So here is my new followup list of wonders

Is the standard mod to cut the whole top off the air box? It SEEMS like either the main jet is too small or the needle is in the wrong position if it is. Again the P. Owner says he did whatever the standard Keintech mod is to the dr250. I reckon I gotta test these theories through investigation - but I am a lazy fellow - so if you know....

Also I am right in thinking that closing the airbox up some will richen the mix...more fuel for less a i r-. I need confirmation as I only pretend to know what I'm doing... I ask because I am assuming no harm in that as long as it isn't running so rich as to foul the plug???? I've heard tale it could be so rich as to wipe the cylinders too but that would be REALLY rich- right?

Right now there is a 137.5 main jet - I'll run a tank of gas and see what kind of MPG I get but honestly I want some high ass fuel economy if I'm going to be riding on my litttle Dr sprite and missing out on the raging displacement rocket ponies. 45mpg seems positively truck like for a 250.

Therefore and further more assuming I "fixed" it. If I want to go back to stock jetting for economies' sake. I'll need a new top to my air box right? Does anyone have an unmolested air box in the house?

Barring that, I'm assuming again that air doesn't care what blocks it - just that it is blocked. So what have you folks done to undo a cut air box? Left to my own devices I'll probably find a tide bottle and some epoxy to make things righter. Any flaws with that idea?

thanks as always for your time
nashopolis is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-13-2012, 12:42 AM   #13056
dbarale
Squiddly slow
 
dbarale's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2008
Location: Western NC
Oddometer: 1,228
Quote:
Originally Posted by nashopolis View Post
Barring that, I'm assuming again that air doesn't care what blocks it - just that it is blocked. So what have you folks done to undo a cut air box? Left to my own devices I'll probably find a tide bottle and some epoxy to make things righter. Any flaws with that idea?

thanks as always for your time
Duct tape... Doesn't matter as long as it's sealed.
dbarale is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-13-2012, 07:09 AM   #13057
Greg Bender
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Cave Creek, Arizona, United States
Oddometer: 1,146
Quote:
Originally Posted by nashopolis View Post
Just wanted to post a follow up. to recap I have what feels like a misfire going on 3/4 throttle and up on my dr250. Looked at the airbox mod the P.Owner did and the whole top had been cut off (not unexpectedly). So as an experiment in changing the air-fuel mix without screwing around with the jet and needle this afternoon I taped a piece of a milk jug over half of the airbox. In my unscientific experiment I guessed that I should cover up half of the hole and i could adjust from there.

Just got back from a quick test ride. If the tape held I can say these things changed.

Presumed misfire seems to have been cleared up! I can now pin the throttle and get smooth power all the way to the redline. There seems to be less popping on decel and my seat-o-the pants dyno tells me the bike is pulling harder! Yea!
Milk jug did a body good!!!!!

So here is my new followup list of wonders

Is the standard mod to cut the whole top off the air box? It SEEMS like either the main jet is too small or the needle is in the wrong position if it is. Again the P. Owner says he did whatever the standard Keintech mod is to the dr250. I reckon I gotta test these theories through investigation - but I am a lazy fellow - so if you know....

Also I am right in thinking that closing the airbox up some will richen the mix...more fuel for less a i r-. I need confirmation as I only pretend to know what I'm doing... I ask because I am assuming no harm in that as long as it isn't running so rich as to foul the plug???? I've heard tale it could be so rich as to wipe the cylinders too but that would be REALLY rich- right?

Right now there is a 137.5 main jet - I'll run a tank of gas and see what kind of MPG I get but honestly I want some high ass fuel economy if I'm going to be riding on my litttle Dr sprite and missing out on the raging displacement rocket ponies. 45mpg seems positively truck like for a 250.

Therefore and further more assuming I "fixed" it. If I want to go back to stock jetting for economies' sake. I'll need a new top to my air box right? Does anyone have an unmolested air box in the house?

Barring that, I'm assuming again that air doesn't care what blocks it - just that it is blocked. So what have you folks done to undo a cut air box? Left to my own devices I'll probably find a tide bottle and some epoxy to make things righter. Any flaws with that idea?

thanks as always for your time
The typical airbox modification that I've heard of is a 3 x 3 inch square hole cut in the top of the air box (or perhaps 4 x 4?). You can "undo" a cut airbox by taping over the top, epoxying on a new top, etc. With a bit more effort, you could even create an original sized circular hole into which you could fit the original snorkel tube (two different snorkels were used, one for pumper carbs and one for CV carbs). If you are wanting top fuel mileage, get an original air box, snorkel, muffler, jetting, needle, etc.

Air very much cares how it is blocked, funneled, etc. Suzuki engineers could have very easily and cheaply clamped on an air filter to the body of the carburetor. They would not have had to design that big inlet tube, the airbox, the snorkel, etc. It would have been a much simpler design to manufacturer. But, they went to those lengths for reasons. I do not pretend to know all of the reasons, but I suspect engine performance improvement and noise reduction were two of the reasons. Does a taped over cut airbox differ significantly from an original uncut airbox? I dunno. But there is more than ample evidence that *how* air moves through an engine matters: all the way from the start of the airbox to the tip of the exhaust.

Hope this helps!

Regards,

Gregory Bender
Greg Bender is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-13-2012, 09:43 AM   #13058
nashopolis
Studly Adventurer
 
nashopolis's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2006
Location: Nashville, Tenn
Oddometer: 716
good point - I forgot about that aspect of the equation. On one level it is the restriction of the air volume and in addition it is how the air flows through the system which of course matters too.

I'll have to look at a part diagram or some such to see what the original setup looked like.
thanks!
nashopolis is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-13-2012, 10:16 AM   #13059
MrPulldown
Beastly Adventurer
 
MrPulldown's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2009
Location: Truckee
Oddometer: 2,928
A 137.5 main seems kindda big for a 250. I thought you were a 350. A stock 350 runs a 127.5 main. The kientech airbox mod is ususualy paired with a 140 main on a 350. I think it is a bit big as all 140mains I have ridden with seem to run rich.

Seems like my needle and seat have recently detoriorated, or worn to the point of leaking fuel. Never was an issue before, as I have both insepcted the carbs innards, and left the fuel on. Oh well. Guess we all get old.

Yes am going to change the oil out before I ride it. It has been about 2000 miles since the last oil change. FOr shits and giggles I looked up the service interval. Interseting that Zuk varies the interval. First oil change is at 600 (break in). Then they are at 3500 miles. I am currently between the 4000 mile change interval. When I first got my DR I was changing about every 500 miles. Then someone pointed out that it's a DR not a KTM.
MrPulldown is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-13-2012, 12:06 PM   #13060
2bold2getold
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Dec 2011
Location: DFW TX
Oddometer: 1,566
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPulldown View Post
A 137.5 main seems kindda big for a 250. I thought you were a 350. A stock 350 runs a 127.5 main. The kientech airbox mod is ususualy paired with a 140 main on a 350. I think it is a bit big as all 140mains I have ridden with seem to run rich.
I agree. Sounded rich to me when you first posted the MPG and symptoms. But covering the hole in the air box and running better seems to indicate the opposite. Air sometimes does funny things when the revs get high though. I'd go back to bone stock and work from there. The factory guys are pretty sharp. Unlimited budget and test equipment we can just dream of. They can't put out a product that won't perform, and stay in business. It's interesting that the first thing a lot of people do is install bigger jets and louder pipes thinking they'll go faster, when most of the time they just get bad mileage, performance, and hearing problems.
2bold2getold is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 09-13-2012, 02:58 PM   #13061
Lizrdbrth
Wackjob
 
Lizrdbrth's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2006
Location: High desert, soCal
Oddometer: 865
Acerbis tank question

I've had a DR350 Acerbis tank for quite some time. It has staggered mounts and the tank came sans mounting brackets.

Do any of you have a pic of the Acerbis brackets? I presume one of the mounts falls in the stock position and the other is an add-on to the upper motor mount?
Lizrdbrth is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-13-2012, 03:17 PM   #13062
Wadester
Rides a dirty bike
 
Wadester's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2008
Location: 'Cruces
Oddometer: 1,912
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lizrdbrth View Post
I've had a DR350 Acerbis tank for quite some time. It has staggered mounts and the tank came sans mounting brackets.

Do any of you have a pic of the Acerbis brackets? I presume one of the mounts falls in the stock position and the other is an add-on to the upper motor mount?
Both of the mounts go on the upper motor mount where it attaches to the frame, one replaces the front bolt and the other the back. Here's a pic of the upper motor mount -

The two bolts along the frame are the ones that are replaced. Here's a pic of the right hand/forward one:



Left side goes in the back bolt location.
__________________
Two roads diverged in a wood, and / I took the one less traveled by, and / now where the hell am I?

This isn't a "you're doing it wrong" topic. (Originally Posted by Human Ills, 7/1/14)
Wadester is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-13-2012, 03:30 PM   #13063
MrPulldown
Beastly Adventurer
 
MrPulldown's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2009
Location: Truckee
Oddometer: 2,928
I am sure if you contact Acerbis they could get you the mounting bits. Two mini hockey pucks and threaded couplers.
MrPulldown is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-13-2012, 03:48 PM   #13064
Lizrdbrth
Wackjob
 
Lizrdbrth's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2006
Location: High desert, soCal
Oddometer: 865
Wow. That was quick. Thanks for the responses. Mystery solved.
Lizrdbrth is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-13-2012, 03:54 PM   #13065
2bold2getold
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Dec 2011
Location: DFW TX
Oddometer: 1,566
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lizrdbrth View Post
Wow. That was quick. Thanks for the responses. Mystery solved.
Here's a couple more http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...postcount=6699
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...postcount=6678

The search function is your friend.
2bold2getold is online now   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 05:39 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014