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Old 09-26-2012, 06:29 AM   #13126
kobukan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Bender View Post
While I do not like to ride my dirt model DR350 at night, it seems that several times a year I find myself caught out late and suffering the inadequacies of my poorly aimed headlight. With days getting shorting this time of year, I know I'll be wanting to leave early in the morning while it is still dark, too.

The primary reason my headlight is poorly aimed is because I have a number plate bag fitted. This bag is important to me and I'd like to keep it if at all possible (or else figure out some other way to carry the items inside it). However, the rubber mounts for the number plate/headlight are easily moved by the fitment of the bag and the result is a poorly aimed headlight.

I'm really not looking to tax my stock electrical A/C output by putting on a better headlight that will sizzle insects before they ever impact the headlight glass, but I would like to be able to keep it aimed where it does me some good.

Any suggestions?

Regards,

Gregory Bender
I haven't looked at the SE model headlight mounting, but looking at the parts fiche it appears it may be similar to the DR650 mounting, which is a solid bolt-on arrangement using brackets mounted to the fork tubes. I've considered swapping my rubber mounted Baja Designs headlight assembly for one of those. Might be able to find one cheap that someone removed to install an aftermarket lighting setup. Looks like the DR650 stock assembly may fit also, but I haven't thoroughly checked that out. That way you wouldn't have to install additional lights. I rarely ride at night, but I do run heated gloves in the winter (on a dirt model AC system) so I run a 35/35w H-4 headlight bulb (available from Baja Designs).
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Old 09-26-2012, 07:06 AM   #13127
Ghostyman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Bender View Post
Very interesting! So, forget trying to get the number plate from moving all around and just install an LED light.
That is the conclusion I came to for getting more light out of my '95 SE.

I'm going with one or two LEDs mounted to the front of the bike. I'm also getting a new hi/lo/turn switch that allows the headlights to be turned off. That way, I can run LEDs, heated gear, and a GPS at night with the stock headlight turned off. That might work perfectly with your dirt stator.

I'm really looking forward to seeing how well those LEDs work in practice.
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Old 09-26-2012, 07:13 AM   #13128
shearboy2004
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Don't forget getting an LED tail light guys , you can save some serious wattage there for other stuff.

For trail riding at night the LED's will make you wanna go out they are that good .

I put on of these on my Sherco 450 and it is almost overkill , amazing light !! Only draws 44watts but bloody spendy.

Baja Designs Squadron LED Motorcycle Light
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Old 09-26-2012, 07:23 AM   #13129
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Wanted to let you all know that due to expenses beyond my reach, I am selling my DR350s. The top end somehow destroyed itself and is outside of my financial means to repair. I maintained it religiously in the short time I've owned it and believe that previously it had been run too long with too little oil and killed the camshaft journals and all associated. I have it for sale in the flea market and wanted to advertise here as well. Thank you all much for your valuable input.
-Hudson
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Old 09-26-2012, 07:52 AM   #13130
Greg Bender
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kobukan View Post
I haven't looked at the SE model headlight mounting, but looking at the parts fiche it appears it may be similar to the DR650 mounting, which is a solid bolt-on arrangement using brackets mounted to the fork tubes. I've considered swapping my rubber mounted Baja Designs headlight assembly for one of those. Might be able to find one cheap that someone removed to install an aftermarket lighting setup. Looks like the DR650 stock assembly may fit also, but I haven't thoroughly checked that out. That way you wouldn't have to install additional lights. I rarely ride at night, but I do run heated gloves in the winter (on a dirt model AC system) so I run a 35/35w H-4 headlight bulb (available from Baja Designs).
Looking at some photos on eBay, I think you are right. I could likely pick up a complete set of parts, but I bet I would be in for $75+ (judging by current eBay prices) and still have the same light output. I could get an LED for just a bit more money, probably save some weight, and have superior light output. I would need to fab a mount for it, though. Hmmm...leaning toward the LED right now.

Regard,

Gregory Bender
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Old 09-26-2012, 08:03 AM   #13131
TheOtherBart
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WTB: Passenger pegs and brackets

Does anyone have a set of passenger pegs and brackets for an SE (if that makes any difference) that they'd be willing to part with? Cheap?
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Old 09-26-2012, 10:20 AM   #13132
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Weak spark on my 1990 kick start model

I am getting a weak spark which I've heard is common on these bikes. Has anyone figured out a good way to increase the cold start spark?

Thanks,

Don
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Old 09-26-2012, 10:26 AM   #13133
slartidbartfast
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maxslack View Post
I am getting a weak spark which I've heard is common on these bikes. Has anyone figured out a good way to increase the cold start spark?

Thanks,

Don
While there MIGHT be something wrong with your ignition system, it seems to be more the nature of the beast. As reported by many others, the spark on my kickstart 93 looks quite feeble but it runs just fine. Getting it to fire up easily in just a couple of kicks required servicing the carb and getting the idle mixture screw set just right. It seems that just 1/4 turn either way can make a huge difference.
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Old 09-26-2012, 10:51 AM   #13134
Ghostyman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghostyman View Post
Follow up... I've got the cover off and the shift drum bolt isn't loose enough to move by hand. Should I actually try to crank it down with a wrench and if so, how much torque? This is not the bike that was getting false neutrals so I have no reason to suspect a problem with it.
Follow up again... I pulled the cover off the bike that had been having false neutrals and found the shift drum bolt completely off. I found it in the case and it still looks in fine shape so I'm going to reuse it. It looks like I'll have to pull the clutch basket in order to get a torque wrench on it.

One more day until the gaskets get here and I can put these bikes back together and go riding!
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Old 09-26-2012, 11:06 AM   #13135
Greg Bender
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghostyman View Post
Follow up again... I pulled the cover off the bike that had been having false neutrals and found the shift drum bolt completely off. I found it in the case and it still looks in fine shape so I'm going to reuse it. It looks like I'll have to pull the clutch basket in order to get a torque wrench on it.

One more day until the gaskets get here and I can put these bikes back together and go riding!
Good deal! Be very careful not to bend the "L" shaped piece with the small spring on it. It is very easily tweaked when tightening the shift drum bolt. Personally, I'd remove it, tighten the shift drum bolt, then replace it.

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 09-26-2012, 11:30 AM   #13136
shearboy2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghostyman View Post
Follow up again... I pulled the cover off the bike that had been having false neutrals and found the shift drum bolt completely off. I found it in the case and it still looks in fine shape so I'm going to reuse it. It looks like I'll have to pull the clutch basket in order to get a torque wrench on it.

One more day until the gaskets get here and I can put these bikes back

together and go riding!
Mate you are so lucky !!! They often snap ! Clean up the threads really well and use locktite !
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Old 09-26-2012, 11:36 AM   #13137
slartidbartfast
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghostyman View Post
Follow up again... I pulled the cover off the bike that had been having false neutrals and found the shift drum bolt completely off. I found it in the case and it still looks in fine shape so I'm going to reuse it. It looks like I'll have to pull the clutch basket in order to get a torque wrench on it.

One more day until the gaskets get here and I can put these bikes back together and go riding!
I would also strongly suggest cleaning all oil off the threads (internal and the bolt) and sparingly applying a non-permanent thread-locker.
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Old 09-26-2012, 11:39 AM   #13138
MrPulldown
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Weak Spark. Pablo-put in a fancy ignition coil to try to up the spark. His conculsion, it did nothing. The weak spark doesn't seem to be much of a hinderance on these bikes.

Weak light-I know the Dirt has a smaller headlight (the size of the acutal refelctor) than the street model. But looking at the specs both use a 55watt light. Though the Street uses a duel filiment hi/low which has a 65? watt high beam. You might try swtiching out the headlight and cowl to the large steet version. Those LED look awesome. But it is a bit of money. The first thing I woudl try is to convert to HID. Uses less power and throws out more lumens. I know a bunch of people talk about how the reflector shape is wrong for a HID, or that they have unreliable ballast. But I say it is worth a try. Look at procycles write up for the DR650 HID. It does not seem like anything more than an e-bay type set up. You would not even have to deal with the Hi/low issue. I would do this before thowing on some hundred dollar LEDs. I plan on going this route when the time comes for me to mess with my lights and electricals again. I would also carry my stock blub in case I have HID malfunc. I currently do throw on a set of bike lights. I think one is 6watts, the other is18watts. Does pretty good. I can run my high beams and these aux lights to take care of the close up. But I can not run highbeam, aux lights and my grip heaters at the same time, without eating into my battery. And I have the upgraded street charging systme which you lack (cant remember if you souped up your mangneto or not).

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MrPulldown screwed with this post 09-26-2012 at 11:51 AM
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Old 09-26-2012, 12:01 PM   #13139
shearboy2004
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I have run the 2x2 HID by Trail Tech and they work OK on an SE but I have also run them on my Sherco and because the stator out put varies and sometimes gets low they will just cut out completely , I see the dirt stator of the DR being too weak to run that system and you will end up having blackouts, something I have never experienced with LED's .

HID 'S have to have a constant current to keep the ballasts going it seems ?

I might add that the LED's I am mentioning are also one hell of a lot brighter than that 2x2 .
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Old 09-26-2012, 01:15 PM   #13140
Ghostyman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slartidbartfast View Post
I would also strongly suggest cleaning all oil off the threads (internal and the bolt) and sparingly applying a non-permanent thread-locker.
That's my only question at this point... red or blue locker? I've seen a few posts where people have used red and I assume they are just planning on never taking it off again. I was thinking blue would be fine but might go with the red for peace of mind.
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