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Old 09-28-2012, 02:00 PM   #13186
Teeeeeemu
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghostyman View Post
I've looked and I'm not sure which one is the "L" shaped piece. Any chance you have a pic where it's visible, part diagram or description?

I compared my two bikes and the one that is shifting fine has small amount of clearance between the shift drum bolt and the drum itself. The bike that doesn't shift right shifts fine if the bolt is backed out a bit to give this same clearance but then the shift drum bolt is loose and would come out eventually. Am I missing a washer somewhere?

I appreciate all the help. I'm going back out to the garage to wrench around a bit more.
Mine has a little gap too and it did shift fine before. (except to neutral)
Maybe Greg knows if there should be a gap or no gap?
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Old 09-28-2012, 02:13 PM   #13187
2bold2getold
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teeeeeemu View Post
Thanks, I'll try that tomorrow. Just came up with trying the battery myself but since you read something frorm the diagram maybe it makes sense Forgot to say I didnt have a battery or capacitor before and it ran fine.
Question ? No battery, no RR, no capacitor, and the RR is disconnected from the altenator. The power from the altenator has gotta be wired in some where for it to run, Right. I would think that AC power needs to be regulated at least. Like I said, no experience with this set up. Someone else needs to jump in here. There's got to be something I'm missing.
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Old 09-28-2012, 02:34 PM   #13188
Teeeeeemu
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2bold2getold View Post
Question ? No battery, no RR, no capacitor, and the RR is disconnected from the altenator. The power from the altenator has gotta be wired in some where for it to run, Right. I would think that AC power needs to be regulated at least. Like I said, no experience with this set up. Someone else needs to jump in here. There's got to be something I'm missing.
The regulator/rectifier whatever was indeed plugged when the bike worked. What is alternator? Something to do with stator? Theres 2 sets of wires from the stator. Other one (yellows) goes to RR, other (blue, green, white, brown) to CDI. And black to ground.
CDI plugged and RR not, iirc there was spark (again only once, not consistent). Plugging the RR doesnt change the situation.

From what I understood the ignition has nothing to do with lightning. I dont know if its correct but kind of makes sense to me.

Does the bike require DC to run? I think no... AC is what comes from the engine, right? RR is what changes it to DC?
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Old 09-28-2012, 03:42 PM   #13189
2bold2getold
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teeeeeemu View Post
The regulator/rectifier whatever was indeed plugged when the bike worked. What is alternator? Something to do with stator? Theres 2 sets of wires from the stator. Other goes to RR, other to CDI. CDI plugged and RR not, iirc we did get spark (only one). Plugging the RR doesnt change the situation.

From what I understood the ignition has nothing to do with lightning. I dont know if its correct but kind of makes sense to me.

Does the bike require DC to run? I think no... AC is what comes from the engine, right? RR is what changes it to DC?
Yes, you are right. I didn't see the black and white power wires to the CDI. If I'm reading the wiring diagram correctly, The three yellow wires from the stator windings go to the RR for the DC parts. The 65+ volts is between any of the yellow wires at 5k rpms. The black and white wires are AC and go to the CDI for spark. I don't see in the manual any voltage values for the CDI power. The black with white tracer is earth/ground. The green and blue wires are from the trigger coil.
Sorry, American terminology. Alternator = stator (windings) and rotor (magnets). Makes alternating current (AC).
Some dirt models are AC. Some street models use a combination of AC & DC. Some I think use DC mostly. What had me confused is the manual says the battey needs to be fully charged to test charging out put. Quess that's just so the RR doesn't sense a low battery for the test. Most of these kinds of problems are caused by wiring integrity, poor ground connections and intermitent spark plug wire connections. But yours has had so many mods, I don't know where you're going to start.

2bold2getold screwed with this post 09-28-2012 at 04:04 PM
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Old 09-28-2012, 06:38 PM   #13190
VremGO
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Location: Camp Pendleton, CA
Oddometer: 8
Hopefully someone here can help me out....

I've got a '93 DR350S with the following mods:

- opened up air box
- uni air filter
- kientech carb performance needle, set to third clip position
- adjustable fuel mix screw
- 140 main jet
- stock exhaust
- idle set to ~2k (just feels more friendly than 1700s)

With those mods, for some reason, when I take off from stop lights after sitting/idling, when I *first* jump on the gas, instead of going up in RPM, it'll go down, scare me to where I think it's gonna die, and I get off the throttle. This returns the RPM back up, which I then get back on the throttle to take off normally.

This all happens in probably half a second, but it's been very frustrating trying to figure out what the problem is... I know the inside of my carb is very clean, although it is still 19 years old so an o-ring might have crawled in a hole and died. Only thing that scares me is, the screws to the carb float bowl are sealed too tight for me to remove, I just don't have the right tools and am praying I don't need to crack it open, and I am trying to avoid the dealership as I don't have much money. Any good suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 09-28-2012, 06:45 PM   #13191
slartidbartfast
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Joined: Dec 2003
Location: Southern Louisiana or Southern England or ...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crenshaw View Post
...

It seems to burn more oil than it really ought to after prolonged highway running. It has 15/44 gearing on it and I don't run more than 65mph on the highway usually, so I don't feel like I'm beating on the engine too bad. Seems to hardly burn any oil if I'm just bombing around in the woods without running at high speed. I don't have a tach, so not sure of what rpms I'm turning on the highway.
I've heard these can burn a little after long stints of high rpms, but it seems like I have to add 100ml or so after every ride that includes that type of riding.

Bad rings? It runs great and feels like (to me) it has plenty of power. Runs just barely faster than my friends old DR400 from a roll. Compression feels pretty good though I don't usually find it necessary to use the decomp lever when starting.
Valve stem seals?
Nice find!

If you are kick starting it without the decompressor, either you are risking breaking something or the compression is low. Perhaps the running low on oil incident did more damage than the PO realized or perhaps it was just due for a refresh.
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MSF Ridercoach IBA: 35353 95 R1100GSA, 93 GTS1000, 85 R80RT, 93 DR350/435, 99 RX125, 78 DT100
January 2010 New Zealand South Island ride
Summer 2009 UK to Alps ride
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Old 09-28-2012, 08:37 PM   #13192
2bold2getold
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Joined: Dec 2011
Location: DFW TX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VremGO View Post
Hopefully someone here can help me out....

I've got a '93 DR350S with the following mods:

- opened up air box
- uni air filter
- kientech carb performance needle, set to third clip position
- adjustable fuel mix screw
- 140 main jet
- stock exhaust
- idle set to ~2k (just feels more friendly than 1700s)

With those mods, for some reason, when I take off from stop lights after sitting/idling, when I *first* jump on the gas, instead of going up in RPM, it'll go down, scare me to where I think it's gonna die, and I get off the throttle. This returns the RPM back up, which I then get back on the throttle to take off normally.

This all happens in probably half a second, but it's been very frustrating trying to figure out what the problem is... I know the inside of my carb is very clean, although it is still 19 years old so an o-ring might have crawled in a hole and died. Only thing that scares me is, the screws to the carb float bowl are sealed too tight for me to remove, I just don't have the right tools and am praying I don't need to crack it open, and I am trying to avoid the dealership as I don't have much money. Any good suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Try using some small vice grips on the float bowl screws. Usually works for me.
Sounds a little lean. When you first crack the throttle, you get a rush of air and not much fuel. make sure the idle jet is clean. Might have to put a small wire or something through it.
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Old 09-29-2012, 04:48 AM   #13193
Greg Bender
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Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Cave Creek, Arizona, United States
Oddometer: 1,069
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2bold2getold View Post
Try using some small vice grips on the float bowl screws.
I put a nice, deep, screwdriver-shaped hole in the fleshy part that joins my thumb to the rest of my fingers earlier this summer working on carb float bowl screws that were very tight with rounded slots. A small vice grip got it out nicely after I stopped the blood with a shop rag and wrapped some electrical tape around it! :> :> :>

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2bold2getold View Post
Might have to put a small wire or something through it.
I pluck a thin wire from a wire brush...works very well for me on even the smallest carb jets. I just spin the jet on the wire.

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 09-29-2012, 09:11 AM   #13194
MadChap
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Once you get the screws out, replace them with stainless hex head screws. You'll be glad you did.
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Old 09-29-2012, 09:43 AM   #13195
tntmo
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Oddometer: 412
I keep guitar strings in my tool box. The smaller ones work great on carb jets.
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Old 09-29-2012, 10:56 AM   #13196
2bold2getold
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Joined: Dec 2011
Location: DFW TX
Oddometer: 1,300
Jet Cleaners

These Jet Reamers work great for cleaning jets factory new. And if it's a little lean, you can open them up a little.

http://www.motormeister.com/suz/carb_access/REAMER1.jpg

Down the page. Near the bottom.
http://www.motormeister.com/suz/carb_access/carb2.htm
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Old 09-29-2012, 11:50 AM   #13197
Teeeeeemu
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2bold2getold View Post
Yes, you are right. I didn't see the black and white power wires to the CDI. If I'm reading the wiring diagram correctly, The three yellow wires from the stator windings go to the RR for the DC parts. The 65+ volts is between any of the yellow wires at 5k rpms. The black and white wires are AC and go to the CDI for spark. I don't see in the manual any voltage values for the CDI power. The black with white tracer is earth/ground. The green and blue wires are from the trigger coil.
Sorry, American terminology. Alternator = stator (windings) and rotor (magnets). Makes alternating current (AC).
Some dirt models are AC. Some street models use a combination of AC & DC. Some I think use DC mostly. What had me confused is the manual says the battey needs to be fully charged to test charging out put. Quess that's just so the RR doesn't sense a low battery for the test. Most of these kinds of problems are caused by wiring integrity, poor ground connections and intermitent spark plug wire connections. But yours has had so many mods, I don't know where you're going to start.
Found this

from the manual and we measured those two.
Primary was 1 cause the meter wasnt more accurate
Secondary was 11. Is it good enough or does that mean bad coil?
Old and new plug both spark fine on another bike so they are fine.
Stator isnt bad either, we measured that.

It SEEMS that everything is fine all the way to coil and after that something goes wrong. But the numbers are almost what they should. The problem came after redoing the wiring but there seems to be nothing wrong with it...
We thought it could be the wire between coil and spark plug cap but it isnt replaceable so gotta change the whole coil.
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Old 09-29-2012, 12:50 PM   #13198
slartidbartfast
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Location: Southern Louisiana or Southern England or ...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teeeeeemu View Post
Found this from the manual and we measured those two.
Primary was 1 cause the meter wasnt more accurate
Secondary was 11. Is it good enough or does that mean bad coil?
Old and new plug both spark fine on another bike so they are fine.
Stator isnt bad either, we measured that.

It SEEMS that everything is fine all the way to coil and after that something goes wrong. But the numbers are almost what they should. The problem came after redoing the wiring but there seems to be nothing wrong with it...
We thought it could be the wire between coil and spark plug cap but it isnt replaceable so gotta change the whole coil.
Secondary is probably ok - If it was reading 1K or something I'd be worried. Should certainly be good enough for the bike to run.
You could try heating the coil, either by putting 12V across the primary for a while (don't overdo it) or with a hair dryer or somesuch and test again to make sure the secondary is not breaking down at high temps.

Did you change the plug cap?

If you suspect the plug wire may be shorting out somewhere, try running (or trying to start) the bike in a darkened garage. You will probably see if there is any arcing to ground.
__________________
MSF Ridercoach IBA: 35353 95 R1100GSA, 93 GTS1000, 85 R80RT, 93 DR350/435, 99 RX125, 78 DT100
January 2010 New Zealand South Island ride
Summer 2009 UK to Alps ride
Summer 2008 UK End-to-End ride
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Old 09-29-2012, 04:54 PM   #13199
Crenshaw
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Joined: Sep 2012
Location: Salidaho
Oddometer: 109
Quote:
Originally Posted by slartidbartfast View Post
Nice find!

If you are kick starting it without the decompressor, either you are risking breaking something or the compression is low. Perhaps the running low on oil incident did more damage than the PO realized or perhaps it was just due for a refresh.

Thanks for the input. I am definitely starting to wonder if it's down on compression some. My friend's old DR400 takes my whole weight jumping on the kicker, where mine is noticeably less. It feels to me like it makes great power though...however I haven't ever ridden another one to compare it to.
By "risking breaking something", you mean on my body? Or the bike?

Is there a favorite supplier you guys like to use for parts? What other things should I think about freshening up if I take the top end apart in the next few weeks? I'd like to put together a parts list and do as much as I can while I'm in there. Timing chain? Tensioner?

I have worked on cars professionally and at home for years and years but I'm pretty clueless when it comes to motorcycles.
Can the cylinder come off without pulling the engine? I wouldn't be opposed to pulling the engine and working on it in my living room for a few weeks once the snow flies. (not sure how the wife would feel) I have the PDF workshop manual but I haven't taken the time to really go through it yet. Too busy riding around on this thing and filling it full of oil.
I should mention I just changed the oil with some better quality oil than I was using before and it seems to have improved the consumption a little. Still not how I feel it ought to be, but better.
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Old 09-29-2012, 06:27 PM   #13200
2bold2getold
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teeeeeemu View Post

It SEEMS that everything is fine all the way to coil and after that something goes wrong. But the numbers are almost what they should. The problem came after redoing the wiring but there seems to be nothing wrong with it...
We thought it could be the wire between coil and spark plug cap but it isnt replaceable so gotta change the whole coil.
You might try this : See that the black yellow wire from the CDI (kill switch wire) is not touching ground somewhere.

Connect the black white wire from the CDI to the frame or motor.

Connect the negative battery cable to the frame or motor. Just to be sure the harness has a good ground.

Pull the spark plug and connect a solid ground to the threaded end ( locking pliers, jumper cable ) and connect the
coil wire and crank it in the dark (no lights). Check for spark plug spark or unwanted sparks.

If you don't have a Pace Maker ( heart problems) touch the plug wire and coil with one hand and the frame with the other hand while someone cranks it. That will let you know if it's got spark.
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