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Old 10-04-2012, 04:25 PM   #13276
Crenshaw
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Did you pull both the plug in the frame and the one on the bottom of the engine?
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Old 10-04-2012, 04:25 PM   #13277
devo2002
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There are two drain bolts. I'm guessing you pulled the one below the motor but there is also one at the bottom of the frame.

It pours out sideways, have fun.
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Old 10-04-2012, 04:25 PM   #13278
kaukasion
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shit just the one on bottom of engine grrr didnt realize was one in the frame
also the oil dipstick im assuming get it to level on full with motor off? just having a blonde day
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Old 10-04-2012, 04:32 PM   #13279
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Run it for a few minutes, turn it off, then wait at least a minute before checking
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Old 10-04-2012, 04:39 PM   #13280
MrPulldown
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oil filter housing holds a bunch of oil too.
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Old 10-04-2012, 04:43 PM   #13281
Greg Bender
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Location: Cave Creek, Arizona, United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by devo2002 View Post
It pours out sideways, have fun.
Yep. I now use a long funnel like this one and direct the stream directly into my oil pan. Much neater that way...though the oil filter still makes a mess! :>

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Gregory Bender
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Old 10-04-2012, 04:49 PM   #13282
kaukasion
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wow this is a pita
i start it let it run couple mins, wait a min or two check and its way too full
drain some
try again way too full
etc etc lol ughh its getting cold and dark out now
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Old 10-04-2012, 07:25 PM   #13283
Chiknmunky
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Somebody help!! What am I missing?
I have a 99 model that I ride regularly,last week I rode it to work when it started making a lot of engine noise,but only at idle.So I tore into it to check the nut on the primary gear as suggested,sure enough it was loose.I pulled the clutch basket for access. I put it back together and rode to work the next day. The clutch won't disengage all the way now,the bike wanted to pull a little while stopped,so I went back in to it to see what I got wrong. I did'nt see anything wrong (thought I may have put a washer in wrong). I put it together and tryed again,now I can crank it up and when I put it in gear it still wants to pull for a second or two and then the clutch suddenly engages enough to stall the engine.I went back in again,put it back together again,same thing! I don't get it! As far as I can tell,it's back together correctly. However, I did use an impact on the nut for the clutch basket since I did'nt have a clutch holder,I did not torque it to 43.5 ft lb like the manual says.Could that cause my problem?
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Old 10-04-2012, 09:39 PM   #13284
2bold2getold
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chiknmunky View Post
Somebody help!! What am I missing?
I have a 99 model that I ride regularly,last week I rode it to work when it started making a lot of engine noise,but only at idle.So I tore into it to check the nut on the primary gear as suggested,sure enough it was loose.I pulled the clutch basket for access. I put it back together and rode to work the next day. The clutch won't disengage all the way now,the bike wanted to pull a little while stopped,so I went back in to it to see what I got wrong. I did'nt see anything wrong (thought I may have put a washer in wrong). I put it together and tryed again,now I can crank it up and when I put it in gear it still wants to pull for a second or two and then the clutch suddenly engages enough to stall the engine.I went back in again,put it back together again,same thing! I don't get it! As far as I can tell,it's back together correctly. However, I did use an impact on the nut for the clutch basket since I did'nt have a clutch holder,I did not torque it to 43.5 ft lb like the manual says.Could that cause my problem?
If you got it all back together right, then gettin the nut too tight might squish the clearances enough to cause it to drag. You could try this..http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...ostcount=11298 I made a washer out of .025" stainless sheet stock when it was apart to check the shift drum bolt. Seems to work good. Or do the sand the hub trick. I kinda like the washer better sense I don't have the means (milling machine) to get it square. It makes the spacer effectively longer. Gives the clutch stack a little extra clearance. When you're ready to torque that nut, try running a long screw driver through the rear sprocket in a position that will wedge it in place on the swing arm. I've got one that will go all the way accross it. That ought to hold it.
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Old 10-05-2012, 07:25 AM   #13285
VooDooDaddy
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Originally Posted by RuggedExposure View Post
VooDoo, Are the mounts the same on a street legal frame?
Yep, they are. Would you have any hesitation to build another rack just like the one you just finished???

PayPal at the ready...........
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Old 10-05-2012, 08:17 AM   #13286
RuggedExposure
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Location: Hermanas, NM (on the US/Mex border past BFE)
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Originally Posted by VooDooDaddy View Post
Yep, they are. Would you have any hesitation to build another rack just like the one you just finished???

PayPal at the ready...........

Lemme put this one through the torture tests and see if I need to change any angles or add brackets.
I want to load it down with way too much weight and take it down some bad trails to see if anything fails.
I'm concerned that this thing is so stout that the sub frame will fail before the rack.

Would you need ammo cans too?
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Old 10-05-2012, 08:31 AM   #13287
Crenshaw
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Take a look at my junk

Alright, tore down my oil burner yesterday. Tell me what you guys think of how all this looks. I am a total motorcycle neophyte.

Definitely stuck oil ring. But the other rings look pretty good, any reason for low compression that I'm missing?



Bore is nice and smooth, nothing funky. Maybe light hone and call it a day.




Valve faces are covered in junk. Any comments on the white vs. black junk? I'll take a look at the seats when I get the valves out to replace seals and see if they need to go the machine shop.




It seems like I'm coming up with about $140 for gaskets, rings, and valve stem seals. Does this seem about right or can the mail order people sense my ignorance over the phone and are adjusting prices accordingly?
I am including mag and clutch cover gaskets with a top end kit in order to take a look at the oft-offending clutch nut.

Any other "while you're in there"s I'm missing?
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Old 10-05-2012, 09:04 AM   #13288
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Price seems about right. But you can get it for cheaper.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SUZUKI-DR-25...504f67&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MOOSE-RACING...f66861&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-SUZUKI-D...706086&vxp=mtr
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Old 10-05-2012, 09:51 AM   #13289
Greg Bender
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Location: Cave Creek, Arizona, United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crenshaw View Post
Alright, tore down my oil burner yesterday. Tell me what you guys think of how all this looks. I am a total motorcycle neophyte.

Definitely stuck oil ring. But the other rings look pretty good, any reason for low compression that I'm missing?

Bore is nice and smooth, nothing funky. Maybe light hone and call it a day.

Valve faces are covered in junk. Any comments on the white vs. black junk? I'll take a look at the seats when I get the valves out to replace seals and see if they need to go the machine shop.

It seems like I'm coming up with about $140 for gaskets, rings, and valve stem seals. Does this seem about right or can the mail order people sense my ignorance over the phone and are adjusting prices accordingly?
I am including mag and clutch cover gaskets with a top end kit in order to take a look at the oft-offending clutch nut.

Any other "while you're in there"s I'm missing?
That is pretty much what I found in my oil burner (stuck oil ring). I honed, installed new rings and had my head gone through by machinist (only needed a grind and new seals - valves, guides, and seats were all great). Price sounds about right to me. The only other thing I did was fit a new wrist pin and associated circlips (didn't need it, but I had ordered it and decided to toss it in, anyway). For valve stem seals, I purchased Viton ones off of eBay. As for pricing, I've found the cheapest to be http://shop.thumpertalk.com/

Best of luck!

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 10-05-2012, 09:51 AM   #13290
2bold2getold
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Location: DFW TX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crenshaw View Post
Alright, tore down my oil burner yesterday. Tell me what you guys think of how all this looks. I am a total motorcycle neophyte.

Definitely stuck oil ring. But the other rings look pretty good, any reason for low compression that I'm missing?



Bore is nice and smooth, nothing funky. Maybe light hone and call it a day.




Valve faces are covered in junk. Any comments on the white vs. black junk? I'll take a look at the seats when I get the valves out to replace seals and see if they need to go the machine shop.




It seems like I'm coming up with about $140 for gaskets, rings, and valve stem seals. Does this seem about right or can the mail order people sense my ignorance over the phone and are adjusting prices accordingly?
I am including mag and clutch cover gaskets with a top end kit in order to take a look at the oft-offending clutch nut.

Any other "while you're in there"s I'm missing?
Clean that carbon ring off at the top of the cylinder and then run your finger nail up and down the cylinder to check for steps. That will give a rough idea of wear. Or you could remove the rings and clean up the piston and use a feeler gauge to check the clearance between the skirt and cylinder at different levels and different places. Because there's more AL on the pin axis, pistons expand more one way than the other and are not all made perfectly round. The manual says .0024" - .0024" std. with a .0047" wear limit. I like to set mine up a little tighter than that ( about .0015"), but you probably want to use the piston manufactures specs. The piston releases a lot of its heat through the cyl wall, not to mention just keeping it square in the bore for better compression and less slap. Some pistons are marked on the top and have the pin offset to the front or the back for less slap. Loose is not faster IMHO. Unless you are really strapped for money, I'd bore it to what ever size you like (there's lots of over size options) and install a new piston, rings, and valves, and maybe wrist pin and top end bearing too. It's going to cost a little more, but then you know it's right and you don't have to spend the time and money to do it again. You could stick it back together with new rings and stem seals, but you've still got pretty much your same old motor. Guess it depends on what you want to use it for. The more old parts you replace with new parts, the more you get for your time and effort in the long run. You don't have to go to a Dealer, a lot of automotive machine shops can do the work just as good and cheaper. Check around, parts are available from a lot of different sources.
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