DR350 Thread

[Crenshaw]

Originally Posted by 2bold2getold

Clean that carbon ring off at the top of the cylinder and then run your finger nail up and down the cylinder to check for steps. That will give a rough idea of wear. Or you could remove the rings and clean up the piston and use a feeler gauge to check the clearance between the skirt and cylinder at different levels and different places. Because there's more AL on the pin axis, pistons expand more one way than the other and are not all made perfectly round. The manual says .0024" - .0024" std. with a .0047" wear limit. I like to set mine up a little tighter than that ( about .0015"), but you probably want to use the piston manufactures specs. The piston releases a lot of its heat through the cyl wall, not to mention just keeping it square in the bore for better compression and less slap. Some pistons are marked on the top and have the pin offset to the front or the back for less slap. Loose is not faster IMHO. Unless you are really strapped for money, I'd bore it to what ever size you like (there's lots of over size options) and install a new piston, rings, and valves, and maybe wrist pin and top end bearing too. It's going to cost a little more, but then you know it's right and you don't have to spend the time and money to do it again. You could stick it back together with new rings and stem seals, but you've still got pretty much your same old motor. Guess it depends on what you want to use it for. The more old parts you replace with new parts, the more you get for your time and effort in the long run. You don't have to go to a Dealer, a lot of automotive machine shops can do the work just as good and cheaper. Check around, parts are available from a lot of different sources.

Thanks. I'm starting to lean towards the basic procycle 385 kit.

Went after the parts with micrometer this morning and everything is great other than the piston itself being right on the limit of wear. I would like to replace it mostly for peace of mind.
The difference in price between 385cc kit and stock parts is almost a wash. There's a local machine shop that I trust to do the bore and head work without taking me to the cleaners.

Am I correct in thinking the 385cc piston (83mm) is the largest that will fit without a resleeve?

[Teeeeeemu]

Originally Posted by Crenshaw

Am I correct in thinking the 385cc piston (83mm) is the largest that will fit without a resleeve?

Yeah pretty much. I THINK there is like 84mm but it leaves the sleeve thinner and if the boring isnt exactly in the middle it could end up bad. So 385 is the biggest safe bore.

Update on my spark issue: Kickstand safety wire wasnt grounded
But now it sparks like before, one less problem!

[plugeye]

Originally Posted by Chiknmunky

However, I did use an impact on the nut for the clutch basket since I did'nt have a clutch holder,I did not torque it to 43.5 ft lb like the manual says.Could that cause my problem?

absolutely. in my experience, torque this nut to the minimum only.
dont button it back up until you are sure the basket spins freely, almost loosely when cold.

[Crenshaw]

Originally Posted by plugeye

absolutely. in my experience, torque this nut to the minimum only.
dont button it back up until you are sure the basket spins freely, almost loosely when cold.

+1. ~40 ft/lbs is hardly anything. Not sure what your impact gun is rated for but my beat up IR will usually torque to at least 150. I would be surprised if the threads for the clutch basket nut can even handle that.

[jeep8]

Originally Posted by jonnykilo

Anyone have a spare speedo cable for a 95S or SE they want to part with? If not, suggestions for suppliers - am just not sure if there is anything particular I should watch out for. Comments appreciated!

jak

27 CABLE ASSY,SPEE
34910-12E00 (replaces 34910-14D13) 1 $33.49

That is off the microfish from my local dealer, I need one to, since no one has any other comments I guess this is the route I will go

[Teeeeeemu]

Originally Posted by jeep8

27 CABLE ASSY,SPEE
34910-12E00 (replaces 34910-14D13) 1 $33.49

That is off the microfish from my local dealer, I need one to, since no one has any other comments I guess this is the route I will go

Theres tons of speedo cables for under $15 in ebay. It isnt oem but I dont think oem is worth twice

[2bold2getold]

Originally Posted by jeep8

27 CABLE ASSY,SPEE
34910-12E00 (replaces 34910-14D13) 1 $33.49

That is off the microfish from my local dealer, I need one to, since no one has any other comments I guess this is the route I will go

Thought you guys had found these already.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Suzuki-DR350...sories&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motion-Pro-S...&forceRpt=true

[Greg Bender]

Originally Posted by jeep8

27 CABLE ASSY,SPEE
34910-12E00 (replaces 34910-14D13) 1 $33.49

That is off the microfish from my local dealer, I need one to, since no one has any other comments I guess this is the route I will go

Personally, I think the OEM cables are worth the extra money. I have found the OEM cables to be of significantly nicer quality than the Motion Pro cables. Motion Pro cables work just fine for many people, but I like a nicer quality cable and I think the OEM Suzuki cables are a bargain for the quality they are. A speedometer cable for my 1993 dirt model is $27.65 from http://shop.thumpertalk.com

Regards,

Gregory Bender

[jeep8]

Ordered the motion pro from ebaay, we will see how it goes

[Chiknmunky]

Thanks Plugeye and crenshaw! I did go back in it last nite and torqued the nut to spec.That fixed my clutch problem but I got te shift mechanism off when I put it together so now all I have is 1st gear.This has been a learning experiance! So I going back in it for the 5th or 6th time,hopefully I'll get it right this time..

[Spad]

Sorry to jump the clutch bandwagon, but I finally got into the clutch on my 99 SE to see why it wasn't working right and want to glean as much wisdom as I can while it's going around. I really want to do this myself rather than sheepishly trucking it to the dealer - more so that I know than to save cash.

Problems included hard shifting and the clutch not fully releasing, even with lever all the way to the bars. Neutral was next to impossible to find, unless engine was off and even then difficult. First thing I checked was cable adjustment which was within spec.

- I drained the oil (which looked brand new, literally - I think there was less than 100 miles on it) and opened the cover to find everything looking new. Most parts ARE new, having been replaced by the PO but this bike hasn't been abused.
- I checked the disks; they were flat when checked against a tablesaw table.
- The basket rotates side to side easily, but with no play on its shaft - does that mean that it doesn't need clearancing on the back?
- The shift drum bolt seems tight when I put a wrench on it, but the head is 1-2mm above the cam gear assy, or whatever it is that the bolt is holding down.

I haven't removed the basket yet - I'm not sure what would be different behind it. The thrust washers are new, so can't be worn yet and I'm loathe to work the lock washer too many times. This would be its second bend.

? Do I need to pull the basket to check on the drum bolt?
? If I have to pull it, what's the best technique to undo and redo the lock washer without gouging the clutch hub? I plan to follow the advice on Maximumsuzuki about pop riveting some old disks together and using a penny to jam the gears if I have to pull it.
? Drum bolt. When I put the wrench on it, it wasn't loose and moving the wrench just moved the cam gear, which is pretty much what's supposed to happen - correct? Again, no slop in it just the slight space under the head.
? Is there a break-in period for new disks such that they grab for a while until they bed in?

Anyway, any help appreciated as always. It was fun getting in there yesterday and today looks like another chance to hang out in the shop working on the bike so a good day.

- Spad

[Teeeeeemu]

1 Yes
2 I jammed something between the swingarm and rear wheel. Not the best but only way for me
3 Correct. I have the gap on there too.
4 Yes. This sounds like your only possible reason. I dont know how the basket should move but it could be that too. I also just clearanced my hub and put in new plates and springs but havent had the chance to ride yet. Everybody has clutch problems haha

[Spad]

Thanks so much for the quick response (and others welcome too). I don't mind clunky shifting, but if it wants to stall when I stop the bike or I can't get it into neutral it needs fixing.

- Spad

[2bold2getold]

Originally Posted by Spad

Sorry to jump the clutch bandwagon, but I finally got into the clutch on my 99 SE to see why it wasn't working right and want to glean as much wisdom as I can while it's going around. I really want to do this myself rather than sheepishly trucking it to the dealer - more so that I know than to save cash.

Problems included hard shifting and the clutch not fully releasing, even with lever all the way to the bars. Neutral was next to impossible to find, unless engine was off and even then difficult. First thing I checked was cable adjustment which was within spec.

- I drained the oil (which looked brand new, literally - I think there was less than 100 miles on it) and opened the cover to find everything looking new. Most parts ARE new, having been replaced by the PO but this bike hasn't been abused.
- I checked the disks; they were flat when checked against a tablesaw table.
- The basket rotates side to side easily, but with no play on its shaft - does that mean that it doesn't need clearancing on the back?
- The shift drum bolt seems tight when I put a wrench on it, but the head is 1-2mm above the cam gear assy, or whatever it is that the bolt is holding down.

I haven't removed the basket yet - I'm not sure what would be different behind it. The thrust washers are new, so can't be worn yet and I'm loathe to work the lock washer too many times. This would be its second bend.

? Do I need to pull the basket to check on the drum bolt?
? If I have to pull it, what's the best technique to undo and redo the lock washer without gouging the clutch hub? I plan to follow the advice on Maximumsuzuki about pop riveting some old disks together and using a penny to jam the gears if I have to pull it.
? Drum bolt. When I put the wrench on it, it wasn't loose and moving the wrench just moved the cam gear, which is pretty much what's supposed to happen - correct? Again, no slop in it just the slight space under the head.
? Is there a break-in period for new disks such that they grab for a while until they bed in?

Anyway, any help appreciated as always. It was fun getting in there yesterday and today looks like another chance to hang out in the shop working on the bike so a good day.

- Spad

First, I'm not a pro with this clutch. Mine was hard to find neutral sometimes also. I recently had my "98 apart to check the shift bolt and here's what I found. Removed clutch and stacked every thing in order of removal. Carefully removed the shift bolt. It was tight and felt like it had thread lock on it. Came out hard all the way, but didn't see any residue on the threads, Was careful not to move the shifter parts/linkage. Cleaned the threads, inside and out, with brake cleaner and reinstalled the bolt with thread lock solution. Replaced the drum sleeve and thrust washers with new ones and made an extra washer/spacer instead of sanding the drum for extra clearance. I made the spacer from .025" stainless, but that might be a little too much. Might change it to .015". I think the drum should turn easily and IMO it ought to have some end play, maybe about .005+". When every thing gets up to temp, I think the clutch hub will expand more than the sleeve and change the clearances. Reinstalled the old clutch (has less than a 1k miles on it). Torqued the nut to 40 ft-lb. If you're worried about the lock washer, get a new one, but you can simply bend it at a different place several times. I use an old, large screw driver to stake and unstake the lock washer. You can put a long screw driver/drift/rod accross the swing arm, thru the rear sprocket to keep things from turning. Also works for the newer bikes(KLR etc) to remove the nut on the CS sprocket with mega torque. Put it in a place where it won't get on a spoke. Probably should have checked the torque on the primary sprocket nut while I was in there. Oh well. Mine has a little torque/slap knock noise I don't like, but it's hard to define and is not consistant. Can't here it at all with the shield down. The clutch seems to work ok, although not as good as my old KLX300, or the Transalp. Still a little hard to get neutral. I don't get it, Honda and Yamaha had this figured out a long, long time ago. You could shift thoes old 125s and 250s up and down at will, anytime, anywhere with or without the clutch.. They shouldn't be putting out any bikes these days with clutch/shifitng problems. A new clutch should not need a break in period to shift properly, although will probably work a little better after a few miles.

[Teeeeeemu]

Originally Posted by Spad

Thanks so much for the quick response (and others welcome too). I don't mind clunky shifting, but if it wants to stall when I stop the bike or I can't get it into neutral it needs fixing.

- Spad

I had to hold a little throttle and brakes in the traffic lights Couldnt find neutral at all while the engine was running.
Now just have to hope for the best

Page 888 wohoo!