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Old 10-13-2012, 12:46 PM   #13366
ilprincipe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by saddlsor View Post
here's mine with a xr600 5 gallon tank. doesn't look as good as stock but not to oversized looking. gives me 350 mile range so covers everything I do. stock seat fits ok and mounting was pretty easy.


Hehe I like this. The tank in the picture is not the acerbis xr 600 which I meant. It looks alot less bulky. Also that's not a stock seat in the picture unless I am mistaken.
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Old 10-13-2012, 03:49 PM   #13367
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ilprincipe View Post
Hehe I like this. The tank in the picture is not the acerbis xr 600 which I meant. It looks alot less bulky. Also that's not a stock seat in the picture unless I am mistaken.
no, you're correct, it's a corbin seat. I have the stock seat and it fits with this tank, just not as comfortable. the tank in the pic is a clarke.
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Old 10-14-2012, 08:21 AM   #13368
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Quote:
Originally Posted by saddlsor View Post
here's mine with a xr600 5 gallon tank. doesn't look as good as stock but not to oversized looking. gives me 350 mile range so covers everything I do. stock seat fits ok and mounting was pretty easy.

Details on the windscreen? Make and model? Does it make a big difference at 60+mph?

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Old 10-14-2012, 02:58 PM   #13369
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suspension swaps

I would like to see some DR's with fork conversion and know what is involved,and what bikes did the trees/forks come from?

I am assuming if I find some 43mm inverted forks they will work in my DR trees assuming I get the front wheel and brakes.....I think this would be the way to go so I can keep stock guages.

Also what about swapping rear shock,or is a revalve a suitable option?
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Old 10-14-2012, 04:06 PM   #13370
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I posted earlier about a grinding/scraping noise on deceleration of the bike. If I let go of the throttle I hear it from the front sprocket area. I was told to take the front sprocket cover off and look for signs of scraping, which I did today. One thing I noticed that looked strange to me is the slack that the front sprocket has. 2 pictures below of it, one in the pushed in position, one in the pulled out position. It slides easily on the splined shaft. Should there be a spacer in there to take up slack??




I believe I might see 2 signs of scraping. One is visible in the pictures, the "outside" of the chain. The other I did not take a picture of, but there was shiny metal on the inside of the arc shaped spacer that sits behind the front sprocket cover that has 2 bolt holes. Could it be possible that the front sprocket is sliding so much side to side that the outside of the chain is rubbing the arc shaped piece?
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Old 10-14-2012, 06:43 PM   #13371
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Your front sprocket is on backwards.
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Old 10-14-2012, 07:12 PM   #13372
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Seriously?? How can you tell? I just bought this bike 3 weeks ago so know very little about it. Do you think it being backwards could cause the scraping?
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Old 10-14-2012, 07:57 PM   #13373
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daverbmxer View Post
Seriously?? How can you tell? I just bought this bike 3 weeks ago so know very little about it. Do you think it being backwards could cause the scraping?
There is a shoulder on the sprocket that faces out. Guaranteed it'll stop if you turn it around.
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Old 10-14-2012, 08:01 PM   #13374
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Thanks so much! I will try that tomorrow. Will it take most of the slack on the shaft out, or just reposition the chain further away from whatever it was scraping but still have slack? Just curious if once I flip it and it still has slack it will be safe. I just read through the "sprockets" section in my Clymer book, and it said to use a new C-clip.. I can see why, if the sprocket falls off, it will jam up the chain and rear tire. They're $2 on Bike Bandit, so I will order one soon, but do you think a couple hundred miles on the old C-clip would be safe?

daverbmxer screwed with this post 10-14-2012 at 08:09 PM
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Old 10-14-2012, 08:07 PM   #13375
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daverbmxer View Post
Thanks so much! I will try that tomorrow. I just read through the "sprockets" section in my Clymer book, and it said to use a new C-clip.. I can see why, if the sprocket falls off, it will jam up the chain and rear tire. They're $2 on Bike Bandit, so I will order one soon, but do you think a couple hundred miles on the old C-clip would be safe?
It still looks ok. Clean out the grooves and make sure its properly seated and you should be fine.
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Old 10-14-2012, 09:18 PM   #13376
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daverbmxer View Post
Seriously?? How can you tell? I just bought this bike 3 weeks ago so know very little about it. Do you think it being backwards could cause the scraping?
don't know what's making the scrapeing sound but I do know that your sprocket looks like an aftermarket one that doesn't have a shoulder on it. some aftermarket sprockets come with a thick washer to take up the extra space out to the snap ring. no matter which way the sprocket is on, it should almost touch the snap ring. I know from the factory that the flat side goes against the engine but I've ran mine the other way with the shoulder against the engine for about 10k now with no adverse problems, so you shouldn't have noise no matter which direction you have it installed.

edit: I have a 16 t sprocket on mine and have removed the case saver.(the metal arc) it's possible with the stock sprocket on backwards it could be rubbing the case saver and making noise. try what ruggedexposure said first and just flip it around and see what happens.
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Old 10-14-2012, 09:24 PM   #13377
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Originally Posted by _CJ View Post
Details on the windscreen? Make and model? Does it make a big difference at 60+mph?

it's just a standard spitfire, big enough to keep the wind off your chest at highway speed. I also made a shorter piece that's bolted to the top to add some more height. now I can ride with my faceshield up and not get beaten by bugs. when I get off the paved roads I can unbolt it in about a minute. want another pic or info let me know.
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Old 10-14-2012, 10:30 PM   #13378
MrPulldown
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ilprincipe View Post
I wanted to buy the acerbis tank made specifically for the dr 350, but after seeing this, I am seriously considering getting the xr 600 one. I only need it for travelling, for which the larger one is better anyways. But imho it also looks much nicer and fits the optic of the bike much better. The acerbis tank made for the 350 often looked odd to me, otherwise I would have already bought one.

The seat itself does not have to be modified to fit it and there are no irreversible changes that prevent you from running the stock tank again right?
XR tank need to cut the stock gas tank mount to fit. Look at the link I posted. Give gives the detail.
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Old 10-14-2012, 10:34 PM   #13379
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KneeKicker View Post
I would like to see some DR's with fork conversion and know what is involved,and what bikes did the trees/forks come from?

I am assuming if I find some 43mm inverted forks they will work in my DR trees assuming I get the front wheel and brakes.....I think this would be the way to go so I can keep stock guages.

Also what about swapping rear shock,or is a revalve a suitable option?
I put a 98 rm250 fork on my bike. 49mm showa dual chamber standard fork.

Been told the 43mm inverted forks are grabage. The cartridge forks of the later years are better.

The dirt model shock is the best one. Get it if you have a SE shock. Consider getting it if you have a S shock. Revalve if the dirt valving does not suit your taste. Dirt and S shocks are valved different. Swaping in modern piggy back shock requires extreme exhuast rerouting.
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Old 10-14-2012, 10:37 PM   #13380
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kaukasion View Post
like in traffic and downshifting it just seems to want to lock up the back tire no matter what i try to do
is there a trick to it or does it just take getting used to? i try to rev match but most times my revs are still to low lol

most times i pretty much just clutch in and go down multiple gears instead of stepping down each gear as i slow and because im so nervous for my rear tire to skid and i cross my fingers that when traffic picks back up i have it in the right gear lol
Can't really downshift more than one gear at a time and not skid the rear tire. Always stay in a gear. Downshift as power and speed dictate. If coming into a stop light either downshift each gear at a time while braking (brakes doing majority of the work). Or brake and stay in gear pull in clutch as bike comes to a stop.
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