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Old 10-14-2012, 11:54 PM   #13381
daverbmxer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by saddlsor View Post
don't know what's making the scrapeing sound but I do know that your sprocket looks like an aftermarket one that doesn't have a shoulder on it. some aftermarket sprockets come with a thick washer to take up the extra space out to the snap ring. no matter which way the sprocket is on, it should almost touch the snap ring. I know from the factory that the flat side goes against the engine but I've ran mine the other way with the shoulder against the engine for about 10k now with no adverse problems, so you shouldn't have noise no matter which direction you have it installed.
So, if I take a look at the sprocket tomorrow and there is no shoulder on either side, I wonder if I could use a hardware store washer or two to keep the sprocket in place? Perhaps one washer on either side of the sprocket or both on the outside of the shaft next to the C-clip. They wouldn't create any wear issues onto the shaft's splines would they?
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Old 10-15-2012, 04:41 AM   #13382
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No need to replace c-clip if you have the tool. I tried for 30 minutes to remove it with no luck until I bought the darn thing for under 10 bucks, then it came off in seconds.
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Old 10-15-2012, 06:05 AM   #13383
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daverbmxer View Post
So, if I take a look at the sprocket tomorrow and there is no shoulder on either side, I wonder if I could use a hardware store washer or two to keep the sprocket in place? Perhaps one washer on either side of the sprocket or both on the outside of the shaft next to the C-clip. They wouldn't create any wear issues onto the shaft's splines would they?

You won't need any spacers, but it would be a good idea to get one of the spring clip tools. I have two (one large, one small) and they save a lot of time and frustration.

Check out my thread
http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=824069

I ended up taking mine off and couldn't remember which way it went on. I thought the sprocket went back on with the shoulder in. Once I put the chain and cover back on I had grinding issues and couldn't pull the chain by hand. so I checked out partsfish:
http://www.buymotorcycleparts.com/su...50002/09350044

And it showed that the shoulder faces out. You have the stock sprocket on there.
Turn it around, take it for a ride then have a beer and forget about it.
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Old 10-15-2012, 07:04 AM   #13384
Greg Bender
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RuggedExposure View Post
You won't need any spacers, but it would be a good idea to get one of the spring clip tools. I have two (one large, one small) and they save a lot of time and frustration.

Check out my thread
http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=824069

I ended up taking mine off and couldn't remember which way it went on. I thought the sprocket went back on with the shoulder in. Once I put the chain and cover back on I had grinding issues and couldn't pull the chain by hand. so I checked out partsfish:
http://www.buymotorcycleparts.com/su...50002/09350044

And it showed that the shoulder faces out. You have the stock sprocket on there.
Turn it around, take it for a ride then have a beer and forget about it.
I've been running the inexpensive Primary Drive sprockets and I've had no complaints with them. I had installed the front sprocket with the shoulder faced outward as shown in the spare parts catalog diagram as well as in the workshop manual photo. It was time to replace the chain and sprockets, and I found my front sprocket had a lot of wear on the engine facing side of the sprocket. It had clearly been rubbing up against the side of the chain. So, I decided to flip it around this time and mount the shoulder facing the engine.

I've never had an OEM front sprocket to compare to the Primary Drive sprocket...perhaps there are differences? At any rate, time will tell...

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 10-15-2012, 08:34 AM   #13385
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Bender View Post
I've been running the inexpensive Primary Drive sprockets and I've had no complaints with them. I had installed the front sprocket with the shoulder faced outward as shown in the spare parts catalog diagram as well as in the workshop manual photo. It was time to replace the chain and sprockets, and I found my front sprocket had a lot of wear on the engine facing side of the sprocket. It had clearly been rubbing up against the side of the chain. So, I decided to flip it around this time and mount the shoulder facing the engine.

I've never had an OEM front sprocket to compare to the Primary Drive sprocket...perhaps there are differences? At any rate, time will tell...

Regards,

Gregory Bender
I had an aftermarket sprocket made by sprocketspecialties. at that time they made them straight on both sides with no extra shoulder but supplyed you with a thick washer to take up the extra space to the snap ring. the big downside I saw to this was the splines were only as wide as the sprocket, thus less engagment on the shaft. a stock sprocket has the splines the full width of the sprocket and shoulder. the latest one I got from sprocketspecialties also is that way now. I believe you have less chance of damaging the shaft splines with one that has more spline contact. as far as flipping it, I did mine to get more wear out of it. in it's stock position it worked fine also. could it be that your back wheel is not straight and thus causing the chain to track a little crooked? sometimes the marks can be a little off, causing unusual wear. just something too check.
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Old 10-15-2012, 09:24 AM   #13386
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can anyone tell me how to clean the tank vent or even where it is?
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Old 10-15-2012, 12:16 PM   #13387
MrPulldown
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daverbmxer View Post
So, if I take a look at the sprocket tomorrow and there is no shoulder on either side, I wonder if I could use a hardware store washer or two to keep the sprocket in place? Perhaps one washer on either side of the sprocket or both on the outside of the shaft next to the C-clip. They wouldn't create any wear issues onto the shaft's splines would they?

A retainer clip tool is nice to own. HF has them CHEAP. I use to use needle nose pliers. Grind the tips down for smaller C-clips.

You should replace the clip itself everyonce in a while. They get loose over time and are very cheap. You should read the post Pablo put up about losing his clip. Good cheap insurance. Once you have a new clip in hand and can compare it to an old one you will see the differecne.
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Old 10-15-2012, 01:29 PM   #13388
AtlantaViking
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Crappy Acerbis tank cap

I have an Acerbis 4 gal tank on the DR. Good tank but the cap sucks - the vent tube doesn't stay on so I'm left with a cap and the nub. That's not a big deal until the bike takes a dirt nap and then it squirts fuel everywhere til it gets uprighted. I hate that and has anyone have this problem and come up with a solution?
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Old 10-15-2012, 02:30 PM   #13389
MrPulldown
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AtlantaViking View Post
I have an Acerbis 4 gal tank on the DR. Good tank but the cap sucks - the vent tube doesn't stay on so I'm left with a cap and the nub. That's not a big deal until the bike takes a dirt nap and then it squirts fuel everywhere til it gets uprighted. I hate that and has anyone have this problem and come up with a solution?

Become a better rider and stop dropping the bike.

Do you have the new style tank/cap with the fast fill thing. You got to make sure the vent hose is pushed out from the disk a bit. Make sure the vent hose is cut square wiht the tube. I stick one of the ends into my steering tube. S models will need to drill a little hole. Once properly fitted I have not had issues with the tube popping off. Every time I open the gas cap I pull the tube off, so I don't have to twist the tube.

As far as the spilling gas issue, you can add a aftermarket vent hose, which is a one way valve. Fuel will not spill out when you lay the bike down, and it will allow air in so that you do not vac lock the fuel system. Problem with this is that the gas tank will expand and swell when it gets hot. Those vents are ment more for race bikes; where the rate of fuel usuage is greater than the expansion of the gas.

Check out this thread for more:
http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...2#post19639452
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Old 10-15-2012, 03:10 PM   #13390
KneeKicker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPulldown View Post
I put a 98 rm250 fork on my bike. 49mm showa dual chamber standard fork.

Been told the 43mm inverted forks are grabage. The cartridge forks of the later years are better.

The dirt model shock is the best one. Get it if you have a SE shock. Consider getting it if you have a S shock. Revalve if the dirt valving does not suit your taste. Dirt and S shocks are valved different. Swaping in modern piggy back shock requires extreme exhuast rerouting.



So dirt shock is direct swap?

What all was needed for fork swap bearings etc?
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Old 10-15-2012, 04:01 PM   #13391
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KneeKicker View Post
So dirt shock is direct swap?

What all was needed for fork swap bearings etc?
Shock will swap in directly.
Here is a little more info on the various DR350 shocks.
http://www.maximum-suzuki.com/forums...?topic=85682.0
Many of the last two year (98/99) SE, claim that those came with a dirt shock. I have never confirmed this statement.

Thinking about the inverted 43mm fitting on stock 43mm triples. I know some of the euro DR350 had unverted forks. But I think 43mm discribes the sliders. Since the sliders are on the bottom of an USD fork the fat part will beon top and much larger than 43mm and will not fit in the stock triple. And again I heard those early USD forks were jsut for looks and worked teribbly (nothing to back up this statement other than hersay).

You really want to know what it will take to mount a 98 RM fork on our bike. Fork, triple, front wheel, axle, brake caliper, donner dirt DR350 steering stem (though I hear all balls makes an adpator) , DRZ400 headlight mounting bracket. I still do not have a dash, speedo, tach, indicators. My ignition is tape to the handle bars, no front brake hose guide, and my turn singlas are mounts on two rectangular chuncks of aluminum. And though I can mount the stock head light and cowl, it is not quite in the right spot. The headlight is sunken into the cowl. When riding at night there is alot of light that "leaks" out on the inside of the cowl. It is blinding.
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Old 10-15-2012, 05:11 PM   #13392
2bold2getold
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPulldown View Post
Shock will swap in directly.
Here is a little more info on the various DR350 shocks.
http://www.maximum-suzuki.com/forums...?topic=85682.0
Many of the last two year (98/99) SE, claim that those came with a dirt shock. I have never confirmed this statement.
Don't know what the dirt model looks like, but here's some pics of my "98se shock. The manual says 11" of travel and it's got compression and rebound adjusters.





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Old 10-15-2012, 06:00 PM   #13393
KneeKicker
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I have a 99se model ,I guess the rear shock really isnt that bad I need to mess around with adjustments more.

I am thinking maybe just do a Gold Valve kit Race Tech and see how that works......I have read some good things about this,also would be the cheaper easier route while being able to keep stock guages.
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Old 10-15-2012, 07:28 PM   #13394
AtlantaViking
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPulldown View Post
Become a better rider and stop dropping the bike.

Do you have the new style tank/cap with the fast fill thing. You got to make sure the vent hose is pushed out from the disk a bit. Make sure the vent hose is cut square wiht the tube. I stick one of the ends into my steering tube. S models will need to drill a little hole. Once properly fitted I have not had issues with the tube popping off. Every time I open the gas cap I pull the tube off, so I don't have to twist the tube.

As far as the spilling gas issue, you can add a aftermarket vent hose, which is a one way valve. Fuel will not spill out when you lay the bike down, and it will allow air in so that you do not vac lock the fuel system. Problem with this is that the gas tank will expand and swell when it gets hot. Those vents are ment more for race bikes; where the rate of fuel usuage is greater than the expansion of the gas.

Check out this thread for more:
http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...2#post19639452
Stop dropping the bike?? Puhlease...I'm just starting to get good at it!!

Thanks for the info, and yes, its the fast fill version. I've jammed that purple tube that came with it as far into the mount as it can go and it always pops off. Most of the time I was lucky and one end of the tube would stay in the triple clamp - but I've already lost one. I'll check out the link and see if that helps. Thx!
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Old 10-15-2012, 11:27 PM   #13395
Suzuki Phil
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Location: Simi Valley, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPulldown View Post
Shock will swap in directly.
Here is a little more info on the various DR350 shocks.
http://www.maximum-suzuki.com/forums...?topic=85682.0
Many of the last two year (98/99) SE, claim that those came with a dirt shock. I have never confirmed this statement.

Thinking about the inverted 43mm fitting on stock 43mm triples. I know some of the euro DR350 had unverted forks. But I think 43mm discribes the sliders. Since the sliders are on the bottom of an USD fork the fat part will beon top and much larger than 43mm and will not fit in the stock triple. And again I heard those early USD forks were jsut for looks and worked teribbly (nothing to back up this statement other than hersay).

You really want to know what it will take to mount a 98 RM fork on our bike. Fork, triple, front wheel, axle, brake caliper, donner dirt DR350 steering stem (though I hear all balls makes an adpator) , DRZ400 headlight mounting bracket. I still do not have a dash, speedo, tach, indicators. My ignition is tape to the handle bars, no front brake hose guide, and my turn singlas are mounts on two rectangular chuncks of aluminum. And though I can mount the stock head light and cowl, it is not quite in the right spot. The headlight is sunken into the cowl. When riding at night there is alot of light that "leaks" out on the inside of the cowl. It is blinding.
If you use a 96 RMX fork setup all you need is a different top bearing and turn the upper nut by .025" if I remember correctly. Did this conversion a couple of years ago. I cut the tabs off the stock DR upper clamp and had them welded to the RMX upper clamp. Now I have both dampening and rebound adjustment. I think the RMX forks are only 1 or 2 mm in diameter larger. You will need the front wheel, spacers, caliper, cable guides to do the swap.

SP
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