DR350 Thread

[Greg Bender]

Originally Posted by watchmen

Does anyone know exactly where what notch the clutch arm is supposed to be at? I just put new plates in my clutch (And thrust washers since I rode it last) I can't seem to figure out where the arm itself is supposed to be, it isn't in the manual. Any help would be great. I am super excited to ride it again, its been a year since I rode the bike last. Hopefully all that will fix the terrible first gear creeping problem I had in the past.

Hi watchmen,

There is no specific spline notch. Even if you marked yours before you disassembled it, you would be very lucky to find it lined up properly on reassembly because the shaft can work in any orientation.

The idea with pretty much any cable actuated lever is that there be a 90 degree orientation between the lever and the cable (90 degrees provides maximum leverage on the lever). Of course, this 90 degrees will change as the lever moves as you pull the cable, but it provides a good starting point for positioning the lever on the shaft.

In short, just move the lever on the splined shaft until you find the spot that works well.

Hope this helps!

Regards,

Gregory Bender

[gardog]

i need some help folks. i got a 1990 dr 350 dirt only. what a tuff bike to start. but i want to rebuild the carb. no one has the kit . so whats a good new carb to get? and yes it was clean and ran great for awhile.

thanks,
gardog

[FlyingWman]

Originally Posted by gardog

i need some help folks. i got a 1990 dr 350 dirt only. what a tuff bike to start. but i want to rebuild the carb. no one has the kit . so whats a good new carb to get? and yes it was clean and ran great for awhile.

http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbend...ebuild_kit.htm
Courtesy of Greg bender

[Nortonbrian]

The correct position for any clutch operating arm is to have the arm and cable at 90 degrees with the handlebar lever pulled fully in. Think of a drum brake actuating lever, over center is bad!

[markk900]

Originally Posted by MrPulldown

Might try bump starting it down the street.

+1 - make sure the bike *can* be started, before knocking yourself out on the kickstarter.

With an almost dead battery on my eStart, bump starting was very easy (2nd gear). So if your bike is going to run.....

[jeep8]

Originally Posted by LawlerClan

Picked up a 1992 DR350S in great condition and for a good price. Super clean bike. I knew it was kickstart only and a bit tall for my short self but nothing I can't work around. Owner started it easily on the first kick while I was there but I have not been having any luck.

I went through the thread, read and tried about the decompression lever in, push kick start until it pops out etc and no luck. Doesn't even cough.

I have noticed that even after the decompression lever pops out, sometimes I can still push the kickstart lever easily like the lever is still releasing compression. Is that normal? I have decent but weak (to me spark) battery is fully charged, everything looks good. Plug color is good and not wet - although I am wondering if it is getting fuel. Kickstart switch is up.

Any tips would be appreciated.

Also, looking for lowering links and short kickstand if anyone has them.

sounds like the vacuum fuel valve could be part of the problem, replace with the yamaha petcock
read this thread for more info about this common problem or look at some of my older post about it.

[trailraat]

Originally Posted by LawlerClan

Picked up a 1992 DR350S in great condition and for a good price. Super clean bike. I knew it was kickstart only and a bit tall for my short self but nothing I can't work around. Owner started it easily on the first kick while I was there but I have not been having any luck.

I went through the thread, read and tried about the decompression lever in, push kick start until it pops out etc and no luck. Doesn't even cough.

I have noticed that even after the decompression lever pops out, sometimes I can still push the kickstart lever easily like the lever is still releasing compression. Is that normal? I have decent but weak (to me spark) battery is fully charged, everything looks good. Plug color is good and not wet - although I am wondering if it is getting fuel. Kickstart switch is up.

Any tips would be appreciated.

Also, looking for lowering links and short kickstand if anyone has them.

When I first got my DR350 I had a nightmare of a time trying to get it started. One reason was the previous owner had the idle set high, but mostly I needed to figure out the proper technique.

1. bike in neutral
2. choke on (pulled out)
3. petcock on prime so there is for sure fuel in the carb
4. pull decompression lever, push kickstart until the decompression lever pops
5. bring kickstart back up and the slowly push down until the piston goes just past top dead center and stop immediately (you'll feel a little pressure and then it will quickly release indicating you have passed TDC)
6. Bring the kickstart fully back to the top, and in one smooth, quick motion kick for all you worth. You will hit full compression at a point about halfway through your kick start levers swing, i find unless i wearing supportive boots it nearly breaks my ankle.
7. bike should start, if it doesn't repeat steps 4-6

I've found when I do it that way it usually starts 2nd or 3rd try

[watchmen]

Originally Posted by Greg Bender

Hi watchmen,

There is no specific spline notch. Even if you marked yours before you disassembled it, you would be very lucky to find it lined up properly on reassembly because the shaft can work in any orientation.

The idea with pretty much any cable actuated lever is that there be a 90 degree orientation between the lever and the cable (90 degrees provides maximum leverage on the lever). Of course, this 90 degrees will change as the lever moves as you pull the cable, but it provides a good starting point for positioning the lever on the shaft.

In short, just move the lever on the splined shaft until you find the spot that works well.

Hope this helps!

Regards,

Gregory Bender

Originally Posted by Nortonbrian

The correct position for any clutch operating arm is to have the arm and cable at 90 degrees with the handlebar lever pulled fully in. Think of a drum brake actuating lever, over center is bad!

Thanks for the info guys. Going to give it a try tomorrow.

[markk900]

Thought I should introduce myself....I've been hanging out over at maximum suzuki for a while, and have been lurking here for a year or so.

Had my DR about 10-11 years, used it mostly for trail riding (located in Ontario Canada) with occasional street rides - its getting cold so I went out today for a putt in the country. Here's a couple of shots after the ride:





I've been riding bikes for over 35 years, trail riding for 25 or so.....rode trials for a while, now just have fun.

[motolab]

Originally Posted by RuggedExposure

Plus there are tons of coyotes out here and they make great target practice.

Do you eat them?

Regards,

Derek

[MadChap]

Just did a quick ride, thought I'd post a link to the report:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...1&postcount=76

[RuggedExposure]

Originally Posted by motolab

Do you eat them?

Regards,

Derek

Oh lord no. That'd be like eating a mangy version of my dog.

[Hotmamaandme]

Originally Posted by MadChap

Just did a quick ride, thought I'd post a link to the report:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...1&postcount=76

Great link to the ride. I need some of those luggage stand off racks

[MadChap]

Originally Posted by Hotmamaandme

Great link to the ride. I need some of those luggage stand off racks

It wasn't really that hard to build them. I bought some steel tubing at Home Depot. Cut about a 4-5 inch circle out of some 1 inch plywood. Screwed the circle to my bench top, and put a lag bolt next to the circle to hold the tubing tight to the circle. Then simply bent the tubing until I had the shape I wanted. Didn't even have to heat up the tubing. Also bent the cross pieces to stand off from the side covers from the same material. Welded some 1 inch flat bar on the ends to mount under the fender and on the passenger foot peg. I should have used angle iron instead of flat bar. Used U-bolts (cut short) as tie points on to bottom outside corners.

I don't have a welder so a friend welded it up. Truly, it was an easy job that took about an afternoon once I had all the supplies.

Here's a couple pics that show them a little more.

[kaukasion]

still lost i pulled the carb back off my 96se today and cleaned it good
carefully reassembled everything

and still the same problem
just no top end power
it literally even in neutral feels like its got a rev limiter keeping it at 6-6.5 k u can pin the throttle and thats all it will rev to
i tried with tank cap removed, installed a clear fuel filter to check fuel flow and its staying full and flowing good, i tried without air filter no change, choke on or off same thing, only with it on get exhaust popping on top of it

brand new iridium ngk plug
carb cleanered everything completely removed everything and cleaned and sprayed out with compressed air
i thought it was my slide diaprahgm but i know its seated correctly used some shallac on it to be sure it stayed in place this time

im lost guys any idea's? its a totally stock bike with the stock jet sizes (both jets brand new)
hadnt ran in 3 years, and will only do 50mph grrrrrrr