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Old 10-30-2012, 05:32 AM   #13471
Greg Bender
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djpreston View Post
Hey guys,

I have a '93 "S" model loving every minute on her, but I find that the turn signals take a very long time to come on when selected and they blink very slowly, anyone have any advice? What should I be checking for?

Thanks,
Dale
Hi Dale,

If the bulbs are standard incandescent bulbs, then is sounds like you just need to replace the flasher. If the bulbs are LED, then probably you need to replace the original flasher with an LED specific unit. (all this assumes your connections/grounds are in good shape)

Hope this helps!

Regards,

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Old 10-30-2012, 09:21 AM   #13472
MrPulldown
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Bender View Post
Hi Dale,

If the bulbs are standard incandescent bulbs, then is sounds like you just need to replace the flasher. If the bulbs are LED, then probably you need to replace the original flasher with an LED specific unit. (all this assumes your connections/grounds are in good shape)

Hope this helps!

Regards,

Gregory Bender
Not just any incandescents. The flasher relay works off of resistance. Suzuki's use 23watt bulbs (? pretty sure that the right number). If you use other size bulbs the resitance is not right and the flasher will act odd. Also if you have a corroded contact it could acts as additional resistance and mess with the flasher . The flasher is located on the headlight mounting bracket.
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Old 10-30-2012, 09:30 AM   #13473
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Originally Posted by nickgindy View Post
I'm trying to diagnose an issue I'm having. When I hook my brake wires to a volt meter I am getting 12 volts for running lights but then i connect my volt meter to the brake light wire and step on the brake im getting .16 of a volt. Any suggestions? Shouldn't it read 12 as well?
Not clear as to what two wires you are probing. If you are talking about the rear taillight, it can be kind of confusing. I know my way around basic wiring and still messed up wiring a new tail light the first try. 3 wire system. Ground, running light and brake light. If you probe ground with tail light with the light on you should get 12volts. I think where I went wronge is that you can mix up the ground with the brake power line and still get 12v with the brake off.

Now if you are talking about probing the brake light activation wires on the levers, those are one wire continuity swithces. Power on one side, none of the other (with the lever not activated), this might get you 12 volt if you probe both wires, as the dead side would act as a gorund. Once activated you now have 12 volts on both sides which would show no voltage or .16v. I am not at my bike to confirm this. But from memory I beleive this to be true.

Did that jsut confuse things up more?
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MrPulldown screwed with this post 10-30-2012 at 10:24 AM
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Old 10-31-2012, 04:54 AM   #13474
kaukasion
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anyone have a spare bst33 cv carb sitting around after their pumper install?
new lowley and becoming broke fast after adopting my lil money pit adventurer needs help
:( i can pay but just cannot afford a "new" one

i think my carbs slide sleeve/slide/diaphragm is junk and in my frustrations ive managed to break that lil copper tube that runs from the choke to the front of the carb :( "ive replaced everything else so far :( and the damn thing still wont hit more than 50ish mph
and the new parts im thinking is going to run me about as much as buying another carb body if i can find one used then id have spare parts

let me know guys and thanks for any help offered
i love this bike and am having a blast putting it around town but i cannot go very far with this carb acting up :(

kaukasion screwed with this post 10-31-2012 at 05:03 AM
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Old 10-31-2012, 03:06 PM   #13475
tjoseph
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Improved suspension

Can somebody tell me what exactly was changed in the '98 and '99 DR350s? I'm considering a '96, but wondering if it's worth holding out for a '98 or '99. What was this big change, and is it something I could retrofit? Anybody have a DR350 electric start that they're looking to sell, in the mid-Atlantic region?
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Old 10-31-2012, 07:39 PM   #13476
tntmo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjoseph View Post
Can somebody tell me what exactly was changed in the '98 and '99 DR350s? I'm considering a '96, but wondering if it's worth holding out for a '98 or '99. What was this big change, and is it something I could retrofit? Anybody have a DR350 electric start that they're looking to sell, in the mid-Atlantic region?
The front forks were changed from damper rod style forks to carrtridge style with adjustable compression and rebound damping on the 98 and 99 SE models. You can change the forks pretty easily, the front axle diameter changed in 94 if I remember correctly so if you have an older model you would need to change wheel bearings and associated parts. The dirt model got cartridge forks in 1994, with a slight upgrade in 97 I think.

The brake caliper is a bit different on the 98-99 models also, I don't think the old model caliper will mount on the new style (98-99) forks.

The 98-99 SE model also got the better rear shock from the dirt model, which has adjustable compression and rebound damping.
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Old 10-31-2012, 10:17 PM   #13477
djpreston
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Bender View Post
Hi Dale,

If the bulbs are standard incandescent bulbs, then is sounds like you just need to replace the flasher. If the bulbs are LED, then probably you need to replace the original flasher with an LED specific unit. (all this assumes your connections/grounds are in good shape)

Hope this helps!

Regards,

Gregory Bender
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPulldown View Post
Not just any incandescents. The flasher relay works off of resistance. Suzuki's use 23watt bulbs (? pretty sure that the right number). If you use other size bulbs the resitance is not right and the flasher will act odd. Also if you have a corroded contact it could acts as additional resistance and mess with the flasher . The flasher is located on the headlight mounting bracket.
Thanks for the advice guys, will check this weekend.
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Old 11-01-2012, 04:35 AM   #13478
tjoseph
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Thanks much for the info. Good stuff. I looked around and couldn'd find specifics anywhere. I sold my '93 DR350S a couple of years back because I found it too difficult to kick-start if I killed the engine on a hill or in other rough terrain. I wanted a lighter bike, with electric starting. I got a 2009 Yamaha XT250, but it just isn't powerful enough to satisfy. So I'm looking to go back to a DR350, and with luck I'll find a '98 or '99. They're very hard to find anymore. Ideally I'd find one with a kick-starter added (just in case).

Quote:
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The front forks were changed from damper rod style forks to carrtridge style with adjustable compression and rebound damping on the 98 and 99 SE models. . . .
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Old 11-01-2012, 07:45 AM   #13479
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Fork seal replacement / damper rod tool

I'm looking to replace my fork seals. I had changed the fork oil which improved the feel but they have reverted to crappy feel so replacing fork seals. Looking at the manual it says to use a funky conical shaped tool to separate the tubes from each other. Is there another way without the special tool? I would love to be able to get it done today. Any help is much appreciated. Its a 93 street model.
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Old 11-01-2012, 08:46 AM   #13480
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I undid the dampening adjustment screw at the bottom of the fork and compressed and pulled the fork tubes repeatedly and it popped the oil seal out slowly.
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Old 11-01-2012, 10:52 AM   #13481
tntmo
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Originally Posted by tjoseph View Post
Thanks much for the info. Good stuff. I looked around and couldn'd find specifics anywhere. I sold my '93 DR350S a couple of years back because I found it too difficult to kick-start if I killed the engine on a hill or in other rough terrain. I wanted a lighter bike, with electric starting. I got a 2009 Yamaha XT250, but it just isn't powerful enough to satisfy. So I'm looking to go back to a DR350, and with luck I'll find a '98 or '99. They're very hard to find anymore. Ideally I'd find one with a kick-starter added (just in case).

The DRZ250 uses the same forks (adjustable compression/rebound), so it would be a good donor. A couple sets are on Ebay right now.
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Old 11-01-2012, 11:09 AM   #13482
tjoseph
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Great info - many thanks. I'm still hopeful a '98 or '99 will come available soon. But if not, this is a good route.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tntmo View Post
The DRZ250 uses the same forks (adjustable compression/rebound), so it would be a good donor. A couple sets are on Ebay right now.
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Old 11-02-2012, 05:06 PM   #13483
GaThumper
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Motion Pro Throttle Cable

I just got a replacement throttle cable for my '99 from Motion Pro. It has a little round "tab" on each of the plastic tubes on the throttle end that are not on the OEM cable. I'm guessing I need to trim them off? Maybe leftover from the mold or for a different application?

Here are pics to help you see what I'm talking about.



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Old 11-03-2012, 04:49 AM   #13484
Greg Bender
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GaThumper View Post
I just got a replacement throttle cable for my '99 from Motion Pro. It has a little round "tab" on each of the plastic tubes on the throttle end that are not on the OEM cable. I'm guessing I need to trim them off? Maybe leftover from the mold or for a different application?

Here are pics to help you see what I'm talking about.



No need to trim, at least I didn't need to. A pair of the motion pro fit nicely in my throttle housing.

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 11-03-2012, 07:28 AM   #13485
GaThumper
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Originally Posted by Greg Bender View Post
No need to trim, at least I didn't need to. A pair of the motion pro fit nicely in my throttle housing.

Regards,

Gregory Bender
Thanks! I'm going to put it back together today. It looked like they would get in the way, but I'll see how it goes.
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