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Old 12-20-2012, 05:34 AM   #13951
jmderyke
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPulldown View Post
97 and newer dirt, got the fancy forks.



Jsut from the number of windings the Street model is ~%60 greater than the dirt. The manual states that a SE puts of 125watts at 5k rpm. No spec is listed for the dirt. No off the shelf upgraded stator is available. People mention a Ricky stator (company name) that does rewinds. But the guy has died and his wife runs his buisness now. Not the same as Ricks Stators from Ebay.

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?p=12924794
page 11 of the distech's build

As far as front wheels go. It is much harder to find one of the late modle big axle front wheels.
Thanks for the info! I have the SE model so more a full rapped stator. But 125w is pretty low, im gonna have to figure something out to get more juice!. I did a compression check yesterday not very good so im gonna do a rebuild. Does anyone know if procycles piston or wiscos piston will work with webcam inc reground cam without clearance issues??
As far as suspension goes I may just swap a whole different front end on it. seen a build on here where someone used ktm 200xc shocks, but Im going try to use a jap manufacture forks mostly so parts are easier to get. Whats the best rear shock swap? just pull one from a 97+ dirt model? Or anyone figure a easy swap already?
thanks guys for the replies!!!
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Old 12-20-2012, 06:09 AM   #13952
kobukan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldUKBikerGuy View Post
Thanks for all the input, guys; clearly it's a common thing with DRs, even if not everyone hears it.
I had thought maybe this was because it was only on the SEs, but perhaps not, if Mark doesn't hear it on his SE?

Particular thanks to Airvent and his buddy for the video, as that captures the noise perfectly for anyone not familiar with it.

(At least I don't have to faceplant when I hear mine......)
Don't recall hearing it on my '99 DR350 dirt model, but it's common on the DR650's.
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Old 12-20-2012, 09:42 AM   #13953
MrPulldown
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmderyke View Post
Thanks for the info! I have the SE model so more a full rapped stator. But 125w is pretty low, im gonna have to figure something out to get more juice!. I did a compression check yesterday not very good so im gonna do a rebuild. Does anyone know if procycles piston or wiscos piston will work with webcam inc reground cam without clearance issues??
As far as suspension goes I may just swap a whole different front end on it. seen a build on here where someone used ktm 200xc shocks, but Im going try to use a jap manufacture forks mostly so parts are easier to get. Whats the best rear shock swap? just pull one from a 97+ dirt model? Or anyone figure a easy swap already?
thanks guys for the replies!!!
Beware of your low compression reading. An SE has an auto decompression mechinism in the CAM. Unless you disable it you will always get alow compression reading. However it sounds like you are looking for an excuse to rebuild.

I did a 98 RM250 fork swap. And jsut swapped over the steering stem. Most Suzukis have the same lower triple clamp/steering stem interface size. All balls also makes adaptor and converters for many forks/stems/bearing.

All dirt modle rear shock are the same and will be better than your SE shock. 98-99 SE's had dirt shocks (so I am told). More travle, linear spring rate, heavier vavling. Ohlin made a repalcement shock that is hard to find and a lot of $. Modern piggy back shocks require crazy exhaust rereouting.

Read here for detailed comparision of DR shocks.
http://www.maximum-suzuki.com/forums...?topic=85682.0
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Old 12-20-2012, 10:38 AM   #13954
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[QUOTE=OldUKBikerGuy;20283237]Hi everyone,
After reading right through the first 600+ pages of this thread so far, I was persuaded to buy my first DR350 (a 1998 SE) and it is already one of the best bikes I've ever had (out of about 50, over 40 years!)

A few years ago, I had been tempted by a DR250XC Djebel, but found it to be a very uncomfortable and gutless disappointment, despite it's rugged good looks. However, the 350 is so much better, comfortable and with plenty of usable power for my needs.
I look forward to posting some photos of it soon, once I've given it my usual 'frame-up' restoration in the Spring.

However, there is one thing that puzzles me, and I hope someone here can help me?

The bike starts and runs both brilliantly and quietly, but virtually every time I turn it off, I hear a loud noise (like a metallic 'clank') just as the engine stops.
It sounds to me like something spring-loaded unloading or disengaging, perhaps e/starter-related?
It doesn't seem to bother the bike at all, but I can't believe I'm the only one with this issue.

Over to you guys......?
Its the starter motor clutch my 99 SEX is the same
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Old 12-20-2012, 03:25 PM   #13955
PWRCRZR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldUKBikerGuy View Post
Thanks for that, MrPulldown; it's very reassuring to know I'm not the only one then!
Interesting that Markk900 apparently hasn't heard it though?

He asks 'how loud?', and I would say it's a bit like stalling a bike in gear.

I didn't want to be paranoid about nothing, but also not overlook something that might be serious.

Maybe some other readers could just confirm that it's 'normal', then I can ignore it from now on.

Thanks for your help so far, and also for the welcome to the forum; much appreciated!

Mine does it every time...still getting used to it.

Just had the bike running yesterday for the first time in a while, when I hit the kill switch "KLANK" and then oh yea it's just the DR thing
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Old 12-21-2012, 05:38 AM   #13956
jmderyke
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Thanks for the info pulldown! I have the manual decompression lever but yeah sure why not have a reason to rebuild lol

hey straight cut is there any noises when the engine is running? Listen for constant noises, noises that sound with changing rpm, engine load. If there are absolutely no noises while running then you need to narrow your search get a location where its coming from when you turn off your motor. Check your exhaust pipe its steel and ur head is aluminum to different metals sometimes do weird things as they have different expansion rates, or it can be loose. Sometimes if the noise is to faint u can use a small hose to your ear and touching the engine in different locations. hopefully this helps not sending u on a wild goose hunt good luck.
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Old 12-21-2012, 03:30 PM   #13957
walkbar
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Question Acerbis Fuel Starvation?

Coming back from MOT today(fail) the DR kept dying on me.

Now, I haven't really ridden it since I rode it back from my mate 6 weeks ago (40 mins through London traffic. so I wasn't familiar(I am now!) with the on/off positioning of the 2 fuel taps so I made sure they were in different position so one at least had to be on....full choke seemed to be the only way around it.

I noticed that the pipes from the fuel taps run 'uphill' before they join through a Y connector into the carb fuel inlet. Would this do it? Just topped the fuel up ...sure I put fuel in when I rode it here but didn't seem to have much so......

PICS...whoops.....I'll go do some...........here they are......2 near side (front to the left)

One off side..exhaust (front to right)


New 'T' piece required for starters?

.

If these pics are huge I apologise...can't seem to change them.....

walkbar screwed with this post 12-21-2012 at 03:36 PM
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Old 12-21-2012, 04:17 PM   #13958
2bold2getold
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Fuel line routing

Here's another option. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...ostcount=12104
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Old 12-21-2012, 05:03 PM   #13959
walkbar
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That looks just right, thanks :)

I know the three previous owners of this.

That Y piece was fitted just before I picked it up (old one broke)..it seemed fine though.

Still...good first move to reroute the pipe and fit a T piece...

Anyone know what size these pipes are?..(I'm bein' lazy...it's late, cold and wet here in Blighty!
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Old 12-22-2012, 01:18 AM   #13960
MrPulldown
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmderyke View Post
Thanks for the info pulldown! I have the manual decompression lever but yeah sure why not have a reason to rebuild lol

hey straight cut is there any noises when the engine is running? Listen for constant noises, noises that sound with changing rpm, engine load. If there are absolutely no noises while running then you need to narrow your search get a location where its coming from when you turn off your motor. Check your exhaust pipe its steel and ur head is aluminum to different metals sometimes do weird things as they have different expansion rates, or it can be loose. Sometimes if the noise is to faint u can use a small hose to your ear and touching the engine in different locations. hopefully this helps not sending u on a wild goose hunt good luck.

Street Electric start (SE) with a manual decomp?
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Old 12-22-2012, 05:19 AM   #13961
markk900
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Quote:
Originally Posted by walkbar View Post
That looks just right, thanks :)

I know the three previous owners of this.

That Y piece was fitted just before I picked it up (old one broke)..it seemed fine though.

Still...good first move to reroute the pipe and fit a T piece...

Anyone know what size these pipes are?..(I'm bein' lazy...it's late, cold and wet here in Blighty!
Did adding gas make the problem go away? The routing you have will not let you get the last third of the tank, so you could easily have fuel but not be able to use it.

There are a number of routings in various threads but all try to minimize the lift of the hose from the tap to the bowl, and all try to keep the right side line from getting too close to either the head or the exhaust pipe. I used strategically placed zip ties to hold the line in the places I wanted to avoid excess heat.

I don't know what the size of the line is - I just use the clear line (I think 3/8") I get at the hardware store....
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Old 12-22-2012, 07:03 AM   #13962
jmderyke
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oops its the 350sm, still getting familiar with this motorcycle.
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Old 12-22-2012, 07:42 AM   #13963
walkbar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markk900 View Post
Did adding gas make the problem go away? The routing you have will not let you get the last third of the tank, so you could easily have fuel but not be able to use it.

There are a number of routings in various threads but all try to minimize the lift of the hose from the tap to the bowl, and all try to keep the right side line from getting too close to either the head or the exhaust pipe. I used strategically placed zip ties to hold the line in the places I wanted to avoid excess heat.

I don't know what the size of the line is - I just use the clear line (I think 3/8") I get at the hardware store....
Yeah..that's what I was thinking. I'm waiting for a mate of mine that owned it to contact me...we'll see.
Haven't been out again yet (just finishing up work for christmas) but I'll take it out christmas morning and test it.
Let's get it all working how it should and go play....fettling can come later.

Thanks for posting....Straight forward smiley would be good eh?
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Old 12-22-2012, 04:53 PM   #13964
Zane Neher
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Does anyone know what the 4 letters/numbers mean on the right side of the carb? (brake side)

The bike is street legal but the PO put a dirt flat slide carb on it. Never specified the origins though. No other identification or part numbers just:

15
E8
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Old 12-22-2012, 11:01 PM   #13965
shearboy2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zane Neher View Post
Does anyone know what the 4 letters/numbers mean on the right side of the carb? (brake side)

The bike is street legal but the PO put a dirt flat slide carb on it. Never specified the origins though. No other identification or part numbers just:

15
E8

I don't think it is the Mikuni pumper , maybe the knock off selling on fleabay ?
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