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Old 12-31-2012, 08:57 PM   #14026
2bold2getold
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Joined: Dec 2011
Location: DFW TX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lasherman View Post
OK, Ill pull it apart tomorrow again and set at lowest point.....do this for both intake and exhaust at lowest point respectivly Im guessing.
Yep, each valve on the lowest place on it's cam lobe. It won't hurt to recheck for piece of mind. But if you used the correct gage the last time, I bet you're close. After all the times you've set your valves now, guess we can call you VALVE Lasherman. :-D I've got no room to talk, I've set thousands of valves, maybe more.

2bold2getold screwed with this post 12-31-2012 at 09:54 PM
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Old 12-31-2012, 09:41 PM   #14027
wkbogie
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Joined: Jun 2011
Location: Raleigh, NC
Oddometer: 17
Found 2 Dr350 with big bore and parts bike in NC

Check it out. Just outside Raleigh, NC
http://raleigh.craigslist.org/mcy/3505962959.html
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Old 12-31-2012, 10:54 PM   #14028
Lasherman
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Joined: Apr 2010
Location: Turlock, Ca
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2bold2getold View Post
Yep, each valve on the lowest place on it's cam lobe. It won't hurt to recheck for piece of mind. But if you used the correct gage the last time, I bet you're close. After all the times you've set your valves now, guess we can call you VALVE Lasherman. :-D I've got no room to talk, I've set thousands of valves, maybe more.

Ha! Im going to Death Valley Daze in three weeks and dont wanna have an issues! just never had them tight like that before.
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Old 01-01-2013, 03:06 AM   #14029
cwc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lasherman View Post
Fired it up after 7-10 kicks (figure it took some to get the gas back in) and let idle. After a bit I saw my header turning red....never saw that before. Any thoughts? Didnt hear any happy tappy......
If you weren't riding it it wouldn't be unusual for the pipe to be a little red. The exhaust gases are pretty hot, around 1700 IIRC, and just sitting there your pipe has no airflow to cool it.

OTOH, you will feel a lot better if you re-check it, especially when riding it far from help?
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Old 01-01-2013, 05:59 AM   #14030
Frankdozer
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Tire Recomendations.....

My 1990 Suzuki Dr350S, under 1500 original miles, I recently uncovered it to start riding again. I purchased it with 850 miles on it in 1994. It still has the factory original Dunlop K560 tires on it. They look like new with no cracks at all. The bike was always stored indoors in a heated building. I don't trust them for dualsport use so a change is in order. The Dunlop K560 is no longer available, plus I'd like something a little more aggressive. My riding will be 50/50. What do you recommend? Thanks, Frank
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Old 01-01-2013, 07:57 AM   #14031
Greg Bender
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Location: Cave Creek, Arizona, United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frankdozer View Post
I have a 1990 Suzuki DR350S that has under 1500 original miles on it, The head was never loosened and retorqued. I can see that a regular torque wrench can do the 4 cylinder head bolts @ 25.5-29 ft.-lb. and the 4 cylinder-to-crankcase nuts @ 16.5-19.5 ft.-lb.. But what about the front and rear cylinder head-to-cylinder nuts @ 16.5-19.5 ft.-lb.? What kind of torque wrench do I use? I seem to find that only a box wrench will fit on them. Thanks, Frank
Hi Frank,

IMHO, the only bolts that really require accurate torque are the 4 cylinder head bolts as those are the ones that do the lion's share of the work in securing the cylinder head to the cylinder to the crank case. Torque those properly with a wrench.

As for the two nuts at the bottom, I just snug them up with a box end wrench and forget about it. I've never had any trouble with them loosening up (and I apply antiseize compound to them).

Hope this helps!

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 01-01-2013, 09:14 AM   #14032
2bold2getold
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Finding TDC

A simple, logical way to find the correct TDC for valve adjustments is to remove all the necessary parts...seat, tank, adjuster covers, spark plug, left side access plugs, etc. On the manual decomp models, make the necessary adjustments to insure the decomp won't interfere with adjustments. Rotate the crank shaft in the direction the motor runs and watch the intake valves (closest to the carb). When the adjuster screw pushes the intake valve down (open) and it returns back up (closed) the next TDC mark that shows up in the access window is the correct position. "Turn the crankshaft untill the engraved line on the magneto rotor is aligned with the center of the hole on the magneto cover" Works on all 4 stroke motors. On most motors, you can put a "tool" down the spark plug hole and watch the up and down motion to be sure you're in the right spot, but that's really not necessary. If you do this, be sure to use something that won't damage anything or break off in there.
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Old 01-01-2013, 09:49 AM   #14033
slartidbartfast
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Joined: Dec 2003
Location: Southern Louisiana or Southern England or ...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADV BUM View Post
I picked this up as my DS trail beast. The PO did not know anything about the build. I was hoping someone here might now the builder. I have not ridden as I have a torn achilles. Something to look forward to when better.

Don't know anything about the build but I can tell just by looking that it's not right. That thing is a piece of crap and whatever you paid for it, you were hosed. It will likely prove dangerous, unreliable and boring. Tell you what... I'll take it off your hands right now for half what you paid. You can cut your losses and I'll see if I can save the old dog.
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Old 01-01-2013, 10:12 AM   #14034
Antti
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I happen to have a main wiring loom for little doctor. Taken from almost new bike when it was modufied to be more offroad capable at nineties. Pm if interested.
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Old 01-01-2013, 10:38 AM   #14035
ADV BUM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slartidbartfast View Post
Don't know anything about the build but I can tell just by looking that it's not right. That thing is a piece of crap and whatever you paid for it, you were hosed. It will likely prove dangerous, unreliable and boring. Tell you what... I'll take it off your hands right now for half what you paid. You can cut your losses and I'll see if I can save the old dog.
CRAP! I took a shot without knowing. You guys are not only knowledgeable but generous.
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Old 01-01-2013, 11:54 AM   #14036
mustangwagz
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Location: Western PA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADV BUM View Post
CRAP! I took a shot without knowing. You guys are not only knowledgeable but generous.
It happens to all of us. lol nice ride too btw! haha. You'll enjoy it! Trust me! hahaha
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Old 01-01-2013, 12:59 PM   #14037
RuggedExposure
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Location: Hermanas, NM (on the US/Mex border past BFE)
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My bike started popping and backfiring while on a 2 hr ride a few weeks ago...
As the trip progressed, the backfiring got worse. It started out only being under acceleration and nothing noticeable, then it started bogging down and barely made it to my destination.

I cleaned the air filter, reoiled it and that didn't work.
I then checked the plug, gapped correctly and the correct color.

I doubt its the carb, I just rebuilt that.
Possible the coil? Has anyone used the aftermarket coils available on fleebay?
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Old 01-01-2013, 02:42 PM   #14038
Wadester
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Joined: Jun 2008
Location: 'Cruces
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frankdozer View Post
My 1990 Suzuki Dr350S, under 1500 original miles, I recently uncovered it to start riding again. I purchased it with 850 miles on it in 1994. It still has the factory original Dunlop K560 tires on it. They look like new with no cracks at all. The bike was always stored indoors in a heated building. I don't trust them for dualsport use so a change is in order. The Dunlop K560 is no longer available, plus I'd like something a little more aggressive. My riding will be 50/50. What do you recommend? Thanks, Frank
I'm not sure if these are what you would consider 50/50, but the Michelin T63's have been working well for me commuting, doing slab to the trails, and riding dirt roads of many different qualities. Decent tread life so far.



BikeBandit has them for around $70/ea ($74 for 130/80-18), but I don't know if that's the best price.
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Old 01-01-2013, 03:32 PM   #14039
markk900
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Joined: Oct 2012
Location: Ontario, Canada
Oddometer: 329
Quote:
Originally Posted by RuggedExposure View Post
My bike started popping and backfiring while on a 2 hr ride a few weeks ago...
As the trip progressed, the backfiring got worse. It started out only being under acceleration and nothing noticeable, then it started bogging down and barely made it to my destination.

I cleaned the air filter, reoiled it and that didn't work.
I then checked the plug, gapped correctly and the correct color.

I doubt its the carb, I just rebuilt that.
Possible the coil? Has anyone used the aftermarket coils available on fleebay?
Did you replace the O rings when you rebuilt the carb - had similar symptoms a couple of years ago on a trail ride and it turned out to be the O ring that holds the float cage in place had broken up, making the mixture really rich.
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Old 01-01-2013, 03:35 PM   #14040
MiteyF
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Location: Michigan... temporarily
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Typically backfiring is a symptom of lean running, not rich ^^^^^
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