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Old 01-02-2013, 06:19 PM   #14056
RuggedExposure
wandering the desert
 
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Joined: Apr 2011
Location: Hermanas, NM (on the US/Mex border past BFE)
Oddometer: 1,223
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeep8 View Post
My air/fuel screw came out one time and caused simular symptoms(popping and backfiring) at less than 4500rpm's
It's the screw on the bottom front of the carb; I replaced it with the extended screw from keintech, has a spring and oring I think
I will have to check that out, it is possible that is has backed out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2bold2getold View Post
Is it a real back fire out the tail pipe/muffler or popping back through the intake ?
Not sure, but it sounds like it is coming out of the tail pipe.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jmderyke View Post
Before you go tearing into your carb inspect your exhaust, if its loose it can be letting air into the exhaust and that gives the hot gases fresh air to ignite. This usually happens when you let off the gas with higher rpms. If its not the exhaust its most likely the carb
Could this cause the bike to bog down and not have power? its to the point to where it wont do anything but idle.
The rear fender has started becoming covered in soot, making believe its running rich.
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Old 01-02-2013, 06:21 PM   #14057
RuggedExposure
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Joined: Apr 2011
Location: Hermanas, NM (on the US/Mex border past BFE)
Oddometer: 1,223
Quote:
Originally Posted by markk900 View Post
Did you replace the O rings when you rebuilt the carb - had similar symptoms a couple of years ago on a trail ride and it turned out to be the O ring that holds the float cage in place had broken up, making the mixture really rich.
I can't remember if those got replaced or not, but I will take it apart this weekend to see if anything looks out of place.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MiteyF View Post
Typically backfiring is a symptom of lean running, not rich ^^^^^
I thought so too, but lately the rear fender has been getting covered with soot, making me think its running rich. Thats why I cleaned out the air filter first.
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Old 01-02-2013, 06:51 PM   #14058
mustangwagz
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Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Western PA
Oddometer: 242
Quote:
Originally Posted by RuggedExposure View Post
I can't remember if those got replaced or not, but I will take it apart this weekend to see if anything looks out of place.



I thought so too, but lately the rear fender has been getting covered with soot, making me think its running rich. Thats why I cleaned out the air filter first.
My harley used to make soot....it was the valve guides...it burned oil! and it wasnt slimy soot either, it was good dry black soot. (i said good, but it wasnt "GOOD"...know what i mean?) keep an eye on your oil, JUST IN-CASE!
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Old 01-02-2013, 07:02 PM   #14059
2bold2getold
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Joined: Dec 2011
Location: DFW TX
Oddometer: 1,320
Quote:
Originally Posted by RuggedExposure View Post
I can't remember if those got replaced or not, but I will take it apart this weekend to see if anything looks out of place.



I thought so too, but lately the rear fender has been getting covered with soot, making me think its running rich. Thats why I cleaned out the air filter first.
Could be ignition related, but more likely a rich condition....Choke/start valve not sealing/closing, idle air jet plugged, needle/seat leaking, one of the o-rings bad/leaking, main/idle jet loose....Bad gas/diesel
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Old 01-02-2013, 07:10 PM   #14060
hajime
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Location: Las Vegas, NV
Oddometer: 196
Quote:
Originally Posted by RuggedExposure View Post

I thought so too, but lately the rear fender has been getting covered with soot, making me think its running rich. Thats why I cleaned out the air filter first.
It could be lean on the pilot and rich on the main jet.
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Old 01-02-2013, 10:35 PM   #14061
RandyM
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Joined: Jun 2007
Location: Westminster, Ca
Oddometer: 898
Durring my recent trip to death valley my my upper chain guard and lower chain guide seemed to spontaneously self-destruct. I suppose a rock or something must have got caught in there.




I have a moose lower chain guide on order for the one under the swing arm. The upper chain guard as far as I know is only available from suzuki and a guy in Germany who makes them out of stainless steel. I noticed that most dirt bikes do not come with the upper chain guard, but all dual sports do. Do you guys think this is really useful? I'm guessing that they only put those on street bikes to keep passenger feet away from the chain?
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Old 01-02-2013, 11:16 PM   #14062
MadChap
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I don't have chain guards on my DR nor my V-Strom.
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Old 01-02-2013, 11:45 PM   #14063
Antti
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Joined: Mar 2003
Location: Finland
Oddometer: 157
Quote:
Originally Posted by Antti View Post
I happen to have a main wiring loom for little doctor. Taken from almost new bike when it was modufied to be more offroad capable at nineties. Pm if interested.
This is gone.
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Old 01-03-2013, 02:20 AM   #14064
Greg Bender
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Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Cave Creek, Arizona, United States
Oddometer: 1,083
Quote:
Originally Posted by RandyM View Post
Durring my recent trip to death valley my my upper chain guard and lower chain guide seemed to spontaneously self-destruct. I suppose a rock or something must have got caught in there.




I have a moose lower chain guide on order for the one under the swing arm. The upper chain guard as far as I know is only available from suzuki and a guy in Germany who makes them out of stainless steel. I noticed that most dirt bikes do not come with the upper chain guard, but all dual sports do. Do you guys think this is really useful? I'm guessing that they only put those on street bikes to keep passenger feet away from the chain?
I'm guessing the longer guard can be very useful in preventing chain lube from flinging on things above it. I don't notice this problem when I ride dirt, but I do notice some chain lube fling when I ride long pavement distances a few times each year (hundreds of miles on a single hot day). Currently I only have the dirt chain guard, which only fits between the tire and the swing arm. I've been thinking about getting the longer version just for the chain lube issue on longer trips.

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 01-03-2013, 05:39 AM   #14065
jmderyke
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Joined: Dec 2012
Location: State of Jefferson
Oddometer: 41
Quote:
Originally Posted by RuggedExposure View Post
I will have to check that out, it is possible that is has back out


Could this cause the bike to bog down and not have power? its to the point to where it wont do anything but idle.
The rear fender has started becoming covered in soot, making believe its running rich.
Ok i missed that info somehow, lol black soot is going to be from oil or poor engine combustion. Theres only two places you could be leaking oil from your piston rings or valve seals/guides/seat.

Hows your engine compression? This should be your very first test when having problems with running conditions! Andwill save time and money! find a friend with a compression tester, normal compression is anywhere from 135- 180 psi anything below 100psi will NOT allow for good combustion. I dont think it will be close to 180 psi cause normal compression ratio is 9.5:1 in the dr350, If its very high you will have excessive carbon build up.

Anyway if you cant find a friend with a compression tester id pull the header off and get a light and look at the exhaust valves, and if theres a bunch of build up behind the valve and /or its oily looking, this could be causing a poor seal allowing for poor running conditions and could explain the back fire and or the soot.

Hope this will save you some time rather than ripping everything apart
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Old 01-03-2013, 06:12 AM   #14066
jmderyke
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Location: State of Jefferson
Oddometer: 41
Quote:
Originally Posted by jmderyke View Post
I am redoing the head on my 91 dr350s and I wanted to know if anyone has redone their head with a wiseco 10.5 to compression piston and a web cam camshaft looking at there 223 grind. Im interested if theres any clearance issues thanks!

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Old 01-03-2013, 03:43 PM   #14067
scottallen
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Joined: Jun 2012
Oddometer: 3
1990 dr350 with lots of goodies

Happy new year! I finished putting together my 90 350s with a high compression weisco piston, and pumper carb to get the fullest out of the opened up air box and supertrapp exhaust. She has way more power now, but is grounding out somewhere she's not supposed to because I can start her in two kicks after trickle charging the battery, but then she is hard to start after riding. Anyways, i'm out of time and money and she has to go. I would like to sell her whole, but if no one is interested, in all of it, i will begin parting her out.

She starts on the second kick after trickle charging and runs and rides excellent. This bike has a salvaged title.

Here is a little gallery of her: http://s57.beta.photobucket.com/user...20fabrication?

Here is a list of the modifications/goodies:

supertrapp slip on
brand new tm 33 pumper carb
raptor petcock
ims shift lever
acerbis frame guards
moose bash plate
moose bark busters with cycra plastic guards
magura throttle
thumper aluminum upper tripple tree
trailtech vapor computer with aluminum mount
renthal contour fatbars
maier rear fender with maier tail light (brand new) and led flush mount signals
ufo head light with led flush mount signals
rm 250 front fender
new seat cover on seat
new grips
newer chain and sprocket

two sets of wheels:

dual sport set with new tires (dunlop) i will update with tire models

dirt set with cheng shin nobbies with decent tread
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Old 01-03-2013, 04:07 PM   #14068
motolab
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Joined: Feb 2006
Oddometer: 2,170
Quote:
Originally Posted by RuggedExposure View Post
I thought so too, but lately the rear fender has been getting covered with soot, making me think its running rich.
Lean misfiring means incomplete combustion. Incomplete combustion caused by a lean mixture can definitely cause sooty deposits.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 01-03-2013, 05:50 PM   #14069
MiteyF
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Joined: Jul 2010
Location: Michigan... temporarily
Oddometer: 1,885
Quote:
Originally Posted by scottallen View Post
Happy new year! I finished putting together my 90 350s with a high compression weisco piston, and pumper carb to get the fullest out of the opened up air box and supertrapp exhaust. She has way more power now, but is grounding out somewhere she's not supposed to because I can start her in two kicks after trickle charging the battery, but then she is hard to start after riding. Anyways, i'm out of time and money and she has to go. I would like to sell her whole, but if no one is interested, in all of it, i will begin parting her out.

She starts on the second kick after trickle charging and runs and rides excellent. This bike has a salvaged title.

Here is a little gallery of her: http://s57.beta.photobucket.com/user...20fabrication?

Here is a list of the modifications/goodies:

supertrapp slip on
brand new tm 33 pumper carb
raptor petcock
ims shift lever
acerbis frame guards
moose bash plate
moose bark busters with cycra plastic guards
magura throttle
thumper aluminum upper tripple tree
trailtech vapor computer with aluminum mount
renthal contour fatbars
maier rear fender with maier tail light (brand new) and led flush mount signals
ufo head light with led flush mount signals
rm 250 front fender
new seat cover on seat
new grips
newer chain and sprocket

two sets of wheels:

dual sport set with new tires (dunlop) i will update with tire models

dirt set with cheng shin nobbies with decent tread

If you're set on selling, good luck with the sale. However, if she starts easily when cold, but is difficult to start when hot, this in no way indicates something is "grounding out". Perhaps you have your terminology wrong, or perhaps you don't quite understand how 12v electrical circuits work, but either way, it sounds like you're chasing a problem that isn't there.
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Old 01-03-2013, 08:07 PM   #14070
RandyM
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Joined: Jun 2007
Location: Westminster, Ca
Oddometer: 898
Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Bender View Post
I'm guessing the longer guard can be very useful in preventing chain lube from flinging on things above it. I don't notice this problem when I ride dirt, but I do notice some chain lube fling when I ride long pavement distances a few times each year (hundreds of miles on a single hot day). Currently I only have the dirt chain guard, which only fits between the tire and the swing arm. I've been thinking about getting the longer version just for the chain lube issue on longer trips.

Regards,

Gregory Bender
Thanks, that makes sense. Now need to decide whether or not to spend 41 bucks on a new one.
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