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Old 12-10-2008, 07:30 AM   #1396
StromBoni
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Quote:
Originally Posted by saddlsor
sounds like the piston in the caliper is sticking. after a few miles everything heats up and starts to bind. might have to take the caliper apart and clean it and change the fluid. I try and replace fluid every couple of years to stave off corrosion and prevent problems. good luck.
Saddlsor, that is a pretty good option.

I had this happen before, and it took a long time to sort out, but what we eventually figured out was that the rubber from the brake line was breaking down internally. Those chunks would slowly make their way to the brake caliper and allow fluid to flow into the brake assembly, but not back out. Thus a constantly locking brake.
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Old 12-10-2008, 12:10 PM   #1397
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that's a good thought also. I had a brake line on a pick-up collapse and bind the brakes up. wheel got so hot it melted the plastic locking hub for the lockout.
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Old 12-10-2008, 08:02 PM   #1398
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Quote:
Originally Posted by error cooled
Hey Guys.. I am trying to make a decision on which bike to pick up to replace my 83 XL600R. I have a few questions I was hoping you all could help me with.

1. Can the bike be run with out a battery like a normal dirtbike?
2. What should I pay for a mint 1999 with less than 2K miles?
3. Can the bike do a comfortable 65mph?
4. How difficult is it to add a kick start?
5. Any of you guys want to sell me your mint 1999?
1. The DR350 began life as a dirt bike--not licensed for the street. Then they added letters after the name: S = licensed for the street and E = 'lecktrik start. There were a few DR350S models made that were licensed for the street but kick-start only--no magic button for electric start. There were never, to my knowledge, any dirt-only models made with electric start. The dirt-only DR350 never had a battery as far as I know. The other ones did. And the Baja Designs kits to convert a DR350 to be street-worthy included a chintzy little nicad AA battery pack. These, if you have one of the converted bikes (and I do) can be replaced with a cute little sealed lead/acid battery that costs less and functions better.

2. Mint 1999? Guess it would depend on the accoutrements that came with it. Bone stock would be somewhere between $1,500 and $2,500. Really mint would be worth the high end and still might be bought for the low end if you find a real deal. And that would be a real deal.

3. 4. 65 ain't a problem. Don't think it's easy to add a kick start. Look for a kick-start bike if you want one. Kicking ain't a problem either if it's going to start easy. You have to have the jetting ironed out perfectly and it helps to either drain the carb each time you ride or use Stabil in the gas.

Can't help you with #5 right now--maybe in the Summer when I get the new bike. Until then, I'm having way too much fun.

Hope this helps!!!

Keith
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Old 12-11-2008, 05:25 PM   #1399
johnnyandjebus
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Hey guys

There is a mikuni carb for sale on ebay right now, It looks different than my cv carb, anyone know what it is i.e is it a pumper carb? Correct me if I am wrong but I don't think that the dr350 came with a pumper carb for the years 1990-96?
I may stand corrected in that if I look at the pics long enough I begin thinking that it is a cv carb....?


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/90-96...Q5fAccessories
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Old 12-11-2008, 05:36 PM   #1400
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Alright I admit I need to stay away from ebay. I noticed that there are quite a few gsxr cans for sale right now, has anyone had any personal experience with fitting one of these mufflers to their dr350, if so what were the results?
I have done the Jesse style exhaust mod to my muffler so is there really any practical reason to look at adapting a can from a high performance bike?

Yes it is winter up here, lack of riding gets a guy to thinking about farkles, winter sucks!!
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Old 12-11-2008, 07:45 PM   #1401
yeroc40
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I'd be interested in the GSXR can on a 350 as well. There is a ton of info on TT for the 650. I need something different by spring as the Supertrapp can't pass the 96 db test for the events I like to ride. I haven't been able to score a stocker on Ebay yet either.
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Old 12-11-2008, 08:43 PM   #1402
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I think a GSXR or any sport bike can will be way too large in diamater. I know the cans from my TL1000S (which essentially has two GSXR1000 sized cans) are way, way too big to fit between the side panel and rear wheel of the DR when the suspension is compressed.

If you are dead set on bolting on exhaust that doesn't belong something from a current four stroke dirt bike would be your best bet - the can off a CRF250X for example looks pretty close.
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Old 12-11-2008, 08:45 PM   #1403
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnyandjebus
Hey guys

There is a mikuni carb for sale on ebay right now, It looks different than my cv carb, anyone know what it is i.e is it a pumper carb? Correct me if I am wrong but I don't think that the dr350 came with a pumper carb for the years 1990-96?
I may stand corrected in that if I look at the pics long enough I begin thinking that it is a cv carb....?


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/90-96...Q5fAccessories
All years of the dirt model DR350 had pumper carbs. Only the street models had the CV carbs (again, all years).

Used pumper carb's are a risky deal as the slides and bodies wear on them, especially if the filter isn't maintained and if air is leaking past the slide you'll never be able to get it to run right.
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Old 12-11-2008, 08:49 PM   #1404
RyanE
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Johnny: I checked out that Carb earlier today as well! As far as I can tell, it is indeed the famed pumper carb that some of us have added to our bikes. Probably the best thing I've done to mine by far. If you do buy it, you will need the airbox boot from a Dirt model DR and a spacer to shim the carb back from the motor to clear the starter assembly (if you're bike is so equipped). Jessie @ Kientech would probably sell you the spacer and boot. You also require a new throttle tube assembly because the stock one for the CV carb doesn't have enough 'twist' to open the throttle completely. Good luck on that one if you're bidding it!

I also know how it feels during the winter.....There's 6" of snow and ice here and it's cold . Makes for good skiing though!

Quote:
3. 4. 65 ain't a problem. Don't think it's easy to add a kick start. Look for a kick-start bike if you want one. Kicking ain't a problem either if it's going to start easy. You have to have the jetting ironed out perfectly and it helps to either drain the carb each time you ride or use Stabil in the gas.
Adding a kickstart isn't really that hard as far as I've read. I have collected most of the kickstart parts via ebay for less than $50. I just need about $30 worth of small metal tabs, bolts and seals. The kickstart parts do come up on ebay once and a while so keep a look out if you're interested. I thought I'd add it for piece of mind and just in case I couldn't start in the tulies, but I've had no issues with the current e-start system though so I haven't bothered to add the kicker. Plus, keeping both will add about 5lbs extra!
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Old 12-12-2008, 11:29 AM   #1405
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I'm checking out a 96 DR350 SE. It looks clean but has a problem.

The owner purchased the bike, went to change the oil and only 1/2 qt came out. He wound up having the top end rebuilt. The mechanic said the hardness was worn off the rockers. The bike also had a loud aftermarket exhaust and was running very lean. The original exhaust was replaced. This owner only put a couple hundred miles on the bike in 4 yrs.

My question is...what about the lower end and the transmission? Is the engine tough enough for this abuse?

I may be able to get it for $1000. Should I go for it?
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Old 12-12-2008, 03:08 PM   #1406
BikePilot
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Its hard to say, he may have warmed the bike up, then drained only the crankcase and given that its a dry sump motor not much would come out. People tend to jump to conclusions and replace top ends for no good reason - almost certainly the case here as the piston would not be the first thing to go. The cam and head would go first, followed most likely by the big end bearing. The trans will almost certainly be just fine as its lubrication needs are much less than the crank and cam. Even a little oil splashing around in there will keep it pretty happy.

The big question for me would be whether the PO did more harm than good in trying to re-do the top end and what kind of shape the head and cam are in. New rockers aren't too expensive, but a whole new head (it uses plain bearings) would be $$$.

I tend to go for either bone stock, unmolested bikes or bikes that have been modified by someone with a known, high level of competence. The vast majority of bike problems I've seen in person and reported here have been caused by people turning wrenches who shouldn't.

$1000 is pretty cheap and its probably worth that. Even if you have to put on a new head you still will be less than the typical cost of a good clean, well-running example.
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Old 12-12-2008, 06:31 PM   #1407
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BikePilot
Its hard to say, he may have warmed the bike up, then drained only the crankcase and given that its a dry sump motor not much would come out. People tend to jump to conclusions and replace top ends for no good reason - almost certainly the case here as the piston would not be the first thing to go. The cam and head would go first, followed most likely by the big end bearing. The trans will almost certainly be just fine as its lubrication needs are much less than the crank and cam. Even a little oil splashing around in there will keep it pretty happy.

The big question for me would be whether the PO did more harm than good in trying to re-do the top end and what kind of shape the head and cam are in. New rockers aren't too expensive, but a whole new head (it uses plain bearings) would be $$$.

I tend to go for either bone stock, unmolested bikes or bikes that have been modified by someone with a known, high level of competence. The vast majority of bike problems I've seen in person and reported here have been caused by people turning wrenches who shouldn't.

$1000 is pretty cheap and its probably worth that. Even if you have to put on a new head you still will be less than the typical cost of a good clean, well-running example.


The head was rebuilt by a cycle shop which said some hardening was worn off the valve train so some or all of it replaced. New cam and followers I believe.

I'm mostly concerned with the lower end. What does it take to split the cases, if it come to that? Can it be done by a shade tree mechanic?

Thanks for the response.
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Old 12-13-2008, 07:30 AM   #1408
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Tourist, If the bike ran good , starts ok, has ok power. Doesent smoke.
Has ok tires , sprockets ,spokes, Id sure buy it .
How many owners ?
How many miles(if it has a speedo)?

Sounds ok to me

Dan
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Old 12-13-2008, 07:40 AM   #1409
dirtydan
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The parts bike

Can anyone tell me if all the street DR350 parts ftom other years fit each other(interchangeable) ?

Ive read that a lot of DR 250 parts fit DR350 s.
Like wheels ,sidecovers, fuel tnks and such.
Thank you
Dan
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Old 12-13-2008, 01:46 PM   #1410
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All DR350S parts will fit all other DR350S models. All DR350SE parts except the forks, front wheel and front brake parts will fit all years of DR350SE models. The same goes for 250S and 250SE's except some of the engine internals are different than the 350 as is obvious (all parts external to the engine are the same).

All off road model parts are interchangeable except forks/front wheel/front brake.
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