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Old 01-08-2013, 07:31 PM   #14131
slartidbartfast
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Location: Southern Louisiana or Southern England or ...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jungleplant View Post
thanks for the sound advice , blinker tabs
on the rack then use real bolts , thanks
I'd say better would be to eliminate the grab rail altogether. Use those mounting points for the rack and have T/S tabs on the rack.

Note that on the street model the center bolt on the grab rail goes through the fender to bolt onto the additional subframe underneath the fender. Presumably bolting the two together provides extra strength.
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MSF Ridercoach IBA: 35353 95 R1100GSA, 93 GTS1000, 85 R80RT, 93 DR350/435, 99 RX125, 78 DT100
January 2010 New Zealand South Island ride
Summer 2009 UK to Alps ride
Summer 2008 UK End-to-End ride
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Old 01-08-2013, 11:48 PM   #14132
Ghostyman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slartidbartfast View Post
Note that on the street model the center bolt on the grab rail goes through the fender to bolt onto the additional subframe underneath the fender. Presumably bolting the two together provides extra strength.
Speaking of that additional subframe, has anyone had any problems after removing it? I have stock racks on my bikes and have been planning on removing that subframe to save weight.
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Old 01-09-2013, 04:39 AM   #14133
Frankdozer
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Suzuki DR350 Engine Guard

Check this out for a Suzuki DR350 Engine Guard with Skid Plate.........Pricey..........................
Regards,
Frank


http://www.motorcyclegear.com/browse...ct_images/6017
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Old 01-09-2013, 05:30 AM   #14134
Greg Bender
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Originally Posted by Frankdozer View Post
Check this out for a Suzuki DR350 Engine Guard with Skid Plate.........Pricey..........................
Regards,
Frank


http://www.motorcyclegear.com/browse...ct_images/6017

Yep. I can see how it attaches up front to the original mounting locations for the skid plate. But, I wonder how it attaches in back? It does not appear to use the original rear mounting points. I wonder if it mounts using "P" style clamps similar to this skid plate (image on that website is not accurate, but "P" style clamps are used)?

https://www.dualsportarmory.com/prod...50&item_id=337

If it does use "P" clamps, then that is a huge disappointment to me. I have the "Ricochet" skid plate and the first thing I did (after fiddling with those stupid "P" clamps for 15 minutes without success), is pay a local welder to weld tabs onto each side so that I could use the original mounting points. IMHO, the original design very much should have taken this route for mounting. Instead, they chose the one-size-fits-all approach.

To continue my rant, anyone who has changed the oil and filter on their DR350 knows that the skid plate must removed or else it will have oil all over it from the filter change. Hence, I could care less about having a hole to access the oil plug. What I really want is a skid plate that is easy to remove and re-mount. I have that now, but it required paying a welder to make it happen.

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 01-09-2013, 06:52 AM   #14135
Frankdozer
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Can we see your skid plate..............
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Old 01-09-2013, 07:03 AM   #14136
Greg Bender
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Originally Posted by Frankdozer View Post
Can we see your skid plate..............
Sure...it has taken a few heavy beatings and bent back into shape :> :> :>

Full disclaimer, I first learned of adding tabs from either Pablo or Distech, can't remember for sure who I first read/saw that mod.



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Old 01-09-2013, 07:11 AM   #14137
Frankdozer
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Looks as it will do the job...........If you were near me, I'd weld it for free..................
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Old 01-09-2013, 07:19 AM   #14138
Frankdozer
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I'm thinking of making a skid plate. I'd like it higher to protect the engine and underneath the tank from mud and dirt. Also I'd like to make a front fender mud guard. I'm concerned about blocking to much air flow to the engine which would prevent sufficient cooling.
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Old 01-09-2013, 08:15 AM   #14139
2bold2getold
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Skid Plate

Here is an option for skid plate material. I haven't made one for the DR350 yet so here's some pics of the one for a KLR. It's really tough stuff and pretty easy to work with, but best of all, it will slide right across rocks instead of digging in.

http://advrider.com/forums/showpost....postcount=2806

2bold2getold screwed with this post 01-09-2013 at 10:02 AM
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Old 01-09-2013, 09:01 AM   #14140
Greg Bender
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Originally Posted by Frankdozer View Post
Looks as it will do the job...........If you were near me, I'd weld it for free..................
It is extremely strong, though not pretty from a design perspective. It took more than a little bit of time because the sides of the skid plate did not line up nicely on either side. So, one of the vertical brackets had to be placed on the side of the skid plate, the other vertical bracket on top of the skid plate.

He initially wanted to tie it in with the side pieces for added strength. But we decided to go with the simpler approach due to alignment issues, later ability to "fix" damage, etc.

Thanks for the generous offer to have welded it for me for free. Honestly, I don't mind paying the guy. He is a friend and does this in his spare time and has performed numerous jobs for me (including some very nice fabrication work). I pay him what he asks for and I get to keep coming back to someone I know and trust. Fair enough for me :> :> :>

It has been on for a couple of years now and around 12,000 miles. I did a nice job of denting it in on a big rock this past summer in Eastern Utah as I was riding down some rock steps. When I got back home, I used a pry bar to straighten it back out.

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 01-09-2013, 09:42 AM   #14141
Frankdozer
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I like the " Wings " on it. I'll probably incorporate engine guards and wings. My problem is that I always get carried away and make things way to complicated for the task at hand. Here in the Northeast we're snowed in so I'll tackle it next week. Right now I'm spending most of my time snowmobiling. All comments for fabrication are welcome. Frank
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Old 01-09-2013, 03:06 PM   #14142
slartidbartfast
Love those blue pipes
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frankdozer View Post
Check this out for a Suzuki DR350 Engine Guard with Skid Plate.........Pricey..........................
Regards,
Frank


http://www.motorcyclegear.com/browse...ct_images/6017
Nice looking - but a wrap-around skid plate will do the same thing for less money, lighter, and fewer attachment points
__________________
MSF Ridercoach IBA: 35353 95 R1100GSA, 93 GTS1000, 85 R80RT, 93 DR350/435, 99 RX125, 78 DT100
January 2010 New Zealand South Island ride
Summer 2009 UK to Alps ride
Summer 2008 UK End-to-End ride
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Old 01-09-2013, 03:39 PM   #14143
smc5735
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oil drain bolt problem

hello everyone !

a few weeks back I went to do the first oil change on my 97 dr350se and successfully drained the oil in the engine case.. However, when I went to loosen the 12mm drain bolt on the frame, it seems like it was way over torqued and it is now stripped, a lot.

my question for you is, since I drained the oil from the engine case, wouldn't that mean most of the oil from the bike is drained? I am having an extremely hard time trying to get this bolt out. I have tried an impact driver with a bolt extractor, nothing... Vice grips.. Nothing..

I really don't want to half ass an oil change so I would really appreciate any comments and tips.

thanks !
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Old 01-09-2013, 04:40 PM   #14144
2bold2getold
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smc5735 View Post
hello everyone !

a few weeks back I went to do the first oil change on my 97 dr350se and successfully drained the oil in the engine case.. However, when I went to loosen the 12mm drain bolt on the frame, it seems like it was way over torqued and it is now stripped, a lot.

my question for you is, since I drained the oil from the engine case, wouldn't that mean most of the oil from the bike is drained? I am having an extremely hard time trying to get this bolt out. I have tried an impact driver with a bolt extractor, nothing... Vice grips.. Nothing..

I really don't want to half ass an oil change so I would really appreciate any comments and tips.

thanks !
Those frame drain bolts seem to get very tight. A 6 piont socket will do a better job of not rounding the bolt. After it's stripped, sometime you can hammer on a smaller size socket of some type. One of those star sockets sometimes works. If all else fails get a nut that will fit over whats left and weld it through the center to the stub. A tig/mig welder will be less messy, but a stick welder will work. While it's still hot, it should come out. You could also pull the hose and strainer below the drain bolt.
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Old 01-09-2013, 04:48 PM   #14145
Frankdozer
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For the 12mm frame bolt, you can remove it several ways. If you can get a good bite with visegrips, then heat the area as close to red hot as possible, loosen the bolt and dose the area with a water soaked rag. If no good visegrip bite is possible, weld a nut on the 12mm bolt thru the nut hole and same heat and rag trick. Remove the dipstick for heat pressure. Look up removing bolts on Youtube.com . Frank
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