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Old 01-19-2013, 12:29 PM   #14251
boboneleg
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Joined: Mar 2006
Location: Bristol UK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2bold2getold View Post
Hi, Bob. Nice ride, and nice wind screen combo. Another "98 in England with early forks... http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...ostcount=14177
The headlamp cowel is from a DR600 Dakar with a flip-up screen from a french company.

Is that your DR350 in the link?

Bob.
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Old 01-19-2013, 01:51 PM   #14252
2bold2getold
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boboneleg View Post
The headlamp cowel is from a DR600 Dakar with a flip-up screen from a french company.

Is that your DR350 in the link?

Bob.
The bike in the pic belongs to one of your UK brothers. Check back on the bottom of pg 945, post 14173, for the beginning.
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Old 01-19-2013, 05:40 PM   #14253
pnw
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Originally Posted by tntmo View Post
I think I have one in my spares.

Thanks for the reply. I found a couple on-line sellers for the cage, wing bolt and snorkel tube but happened by a dealership today and ordered them there, same price which was a lot for a peice of plastic, rubber hose and a little wing bolt.
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Old 01-19-2013, 07:09 PM   #14254
Lasherman
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Frame oil leak.

Exactly how important is the brace on the frame directly in front of the engine? This is a support that is directly under the steering stem between the top of the frame and the neck going down. The reason I have a small amount of oil leaking from behind this support. I have to cut it off.....find the leak and fix the leak. Anybody else have leaks from this area?
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Old 01-19-2013, 08:04 PM   #14255
2bold2getold
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lasherman View Post
Exactly how important is the brace on the frame directly in front of the engine? This is a support that is directly under the steering stem between the top of the frame and the neck going down. The reason I have a small amount of oil leaking from behind this support. I have to cut it off.....find the leak and fix the leak. Anybody else have leaks from this area?
I guess you're talking about the sheet metal gusset behind the oil reservoir, that connects the top tube and the down tube. If you remove it for a repair, I think it would be pretty simple to replace it with something simple that would give similar support. Lots of ways to strenghten that junction. Or be carefull removing it and use it back. Suzuki thought it was necessary.

2bold2getold screwed with this post 01-20-2013 at 07:14 AM
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Old 01-19-2013, 09:23 PM   #14256
Lasherman
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Yeah.....kinda my thoughts. I have a small oil leak coming out of the bottom of the gusset so I know I must habe a leak on the frame under the gusset. Problem is that is blows back in the engine.and my boot and maks.a.mess. I did a 100 mile ride and oil was on my boot and side of bike, but not noticeable loss when oil is checked. Just very unnerving.
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Old 01-20-2013, 02:01 AM   #14257
hobes
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADV BUM View Post
Looking for DR350 rear wheel compatibility

DR250 - Direct swap I believe

Drz400?

Rm125/250?

I'm using a 350 rear wheel in my DRZ, so it should work the other way (you need a DRZ wheel with disc because DRZ got 6 bolt mounting and DR 4 bolt, so you cant't change the disc)
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Old 01-20-2013, 07:50 AM   #14258
dav_dman
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Location: louisville ky/southere indiana
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Bender View Post
Hi Luke,

Let us know of the KX Highs work with your cables. Picture would be nice, too. :>

Regards,

Gregory Bender
with stock bar i have 2" riser no cable issue. Not sure how high you could go, dont recall.
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Old 01-20-2013, 07:55 AM   #14259
dav_dman
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Location: louisville ky/southere indiana
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pnw View Post
I have a '99 with a K&N air filter but thinking of going back to a foam filter. Anyone know of a source for a new cage for a foam filter? Or is the K&N not as bad as I read about on this site for use in dusty conditions?

Anyone know if trimming the snorkel tube shorter causes any problems?
i use a twin air on my modded airbox setup. A little pricey-er than uni but i like em.
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Old 01-20-2013, 08:01 AM   #14260
dav_dman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RuggedExposure View Post
To update some people on my dilemma, the DR is still sputtering/backfiring like crazy.
Seemed at first my problem was the carb flooding and running rich. The exhaust has lately been leaving soot on the fender so that was an indicator.
I checked the float and it seemed to be good, the float needle is also in good shape.
Gregory Bender sent me his handy dandy O-ring kit to test fit the O-ring for the float valve assembly.
You'll have to excuse my work environment. I recently moved out to the ranch last month, and still am in the process of converting the barn to a workable shop. I am starting to practice working on the bike with only with the tools I carry on the bike. This way I know what tools I may be missing, and which ones I don't need to be carrying.
I also came to the conclusion that I should give up working in a clean, neat location to simulate a road side break down.
What I've learned so far is to carry a clean rag or old t-shirt in your tool kit to lay small parts on.

Here is the kit. Various O-rings for different parts of the bike.
He includes a sheet with the sizes to match up which O-ring for which part (neat idea).


All I need is #10 for the float valve assembly:


Here's the whole it goes into:


As you can see, the old O-ring fell apart instantly:


As Mr. Bender suggests, lube it up with some grease to allow it to seat easier.

Great kit, worked flawlessly. But unfortunately the bike it still not operable.

I will try changing the plug next just to see if maybe thats the issue.
The bike starts easy, runs like a champ until it gets warmed up. Then it starts popping from the tailpipe and falls on it's face. If the plug doesn't work I will try the new coil I ordered.

Anyone else have any ideas? This problem seems to be linked to heat, or something warming up and making it run awful.

I'd go with new needle/seat assy. They are cheap and that one is worn. I think your needle either is not sliding well or your metal tab is not adjusted to drop the needle as the bowl fills, at the correct level. Use crc or some non rubber hurting lube spray on the needle seat when you install.

this is a long thread and you mightve already done this and i didnt read it...sorry if so.

my troubleshooting procedure is always compression-fuel delivery-electrical , in that order. Comp good, fuel delivery suspect....get that bulletproof before you go on to check coils etc after fuel delivery is a certain non-issue.

just an opinion, an everybody has one :)

good luck, bro.

if probs continue i will have a spare carb in a couple weeks you can try if you want, just pm me. (stock se, not a pumper).
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Old 01-20-2013, 09:38 AM   #14261
RuggedExposure
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Location: Hermanas, NM (on the US/Mex border past BFE)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dav_dman View Post
I'd go with new needle/seat assy. They are cheap and that one is worn. I think your needle either is not sliding well or your metal tab is not adjusted to drop the needle as the bowl fills, at the correct level. Use crc or some non rubber hurting lube spray on the needle seat when you install.

this is a long thread and you mightve already done this and i didnt read it...sorry if so.

my troubleshooting procedure is always compression-fuel delivery-electrical , in that order. Comp good, fuel delivery suspect....get that bulletproof before you go on to check coils etc after fuel delivery is a certain non-issue.

just an opinion, an everybody has one :)

good luck, bro.

if probs continue i will have a spare carb in a couple weeks you can try if you want, just pm me. (stock se, not a pumper).
I may do that. I have to run to town today and I'll get another spark plug just to see if that may be it.
Also going to try putting in the new coil today I ordered a few weeks ago...
I'm not frustrated to the point of setting the bike out in the pasture and using it to sight in rifles yet, but its getting close. (If I decide to do that, I will be sure to film it for you guys )
I plan on buying a Terra 650 in March so that is the only thing that keeps me calmed down at this point.
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Old 01-20-2013, 10:02 AM   #14262
markk900
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That's exactly what my O ring looked like when I had similar problems. If its that bad check the other one that holds the float cage in place - if its loose you may be getting a different float height than you think you are setting. Also +1 on the needle seat being worn, however if it was leaking you'd be getting gas out the overflow tube regularly and you didn't mention that as a problem.
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Old 01-20-2013, 10:52 AM   #14263
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dav_dman View Post
I'd go with new needle/seat assy. They are cheap and that one is worn.
Besides getting dirty, there's not much that can go wrong with the needle seat. Cleaning it ultrasonically or with carb cleaner should be all that is required (if that). Obviously the o-ring needs to be replaced, but the needle is not visible in the photo. The tip of the needle should be inspected under magnification. If a witness line is evident where it has been contacting the seat, if the tip is beginning to separate from the body of the needle, or if the plunger spring is sacked out, the needle should be replaced.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 01-20-2013, 11:21 AM   #14264
RuggedExposure
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Location: Hermanas, NM (on the US/Mex border past BFE)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
Besides getting dirty, there's not much that can go wrong with the needle seat. Cleaning it ultrasonically or with carb cleaner should be all that is required (if that). Obviously the o-ring needs to be replaced, but the needle is not visible in the photo. The tip of the needle should be inspected under magnification. If a witness line is evident where it has been contacting the seat, if the tip is beginning to separate from the body of the needle, or if the plunger spring is sacked out, the needle should be replaced.

Regards,

Derek
O-ring was replaced, everything was cleaned with citric acid overnight. the tip appears to be in great shape.
Also, with my clear fuel lines I can see with an empty carb the fuel flows in fine then comes to a sudden stop (when the float reaches level) and it doesn't appear that anymore creeps in.

I just put the new coil on and it actually runs a little better. Maybe the new 'racing' coil provides a little more spark and the plug is the problem? I should be able to replace the plug by tomorrow and see.
I can actually ride the bike enough to pop some wheelies now... whereas before it would barely make it across the dirt lot.
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Old 01-20-2013, 01:10 PM   #14265
RuggedExposure
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Location: Hermanas, NM (on the US/Mex border past BFE)
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Here is a video i took earlier this morning before I changed out the coil:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0j0RV...=youtube_gdata

Runs a little better now. I pulled the plug and will get a new one this evening... Its starting to look like an electrical issue for sure.
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