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Old 02-14-2013, 09:38 AM   #14731
redleger
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Location: Tornado Alley, Oklahoma
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SloMo228 View Post
Well, I'm going to pick up a '96 DR350SE this afternoon. I wasn't really looking for a DR350 specifically, I was actually about to make a call about a nice-looking XL600R, but this one popped up on craigslist just down the road from me for a great price and it seems that it will fit the bill for commuting and trying to expand my riding from street-only to a bit of off-road.

At the price the seller is asking, I'm going to get it regardless of issues unless it's completely bombed out, but it only has about 7,000 miles on it so I'm assuming it won't be too bad. I am curious, though, about how the DR350 does on freeways. I have read some conflicting information, some people saying it's just fine thanks to the 6-speed transmission and some saying it doesn't have the power. Of course, I've also read that the XL600R wouldn't be great on the freeway either... Heck, I've even been told that my CX500 would be a danger on the freeway.

So I guess I'll ask a more objective question - does it have the power to cruise for a few hours at a time at 70mph, with a little left to spare for passing and evasive maneuvers? And is that going to damage the engine or shorten its lifespan unreasonably?
I have a 1996 DR350SE and it is bored to 449. I have used it on the free way in WA state for many miles. The above post is correct. If I were you however I would also look into the big bore kit. More power. I also have an FMF SLIP ON. With those I have few power issues.

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Old 02-14-2013, 10:09 AM   #14732
KonaTheHusky
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shearboy2004 View Post
Mate if the oil level didn't drop too far and you have no new top end noises it will be good to go .

About the only thing that kills these engines is letting oil level get to low , starves the top end and will ruin cam bearings and lifters . Always check the oil level at the end of your days riding as they have a habit of wet sumping over night and it's impossible to get an accurate reading when they are cold , you can start them in the morning or before a ride and run it for 10 mins and check but as many will say here the most accurate reading you will get is at the end of the day .Once you get to know the bike you will know if it uses any oil at all , most seem to use a bit on extended highway runs .
Threw the new bolt in earlier this week and topped up the oil. She took almost the full 1.8qts. Seems to run fine with no loss of power. Perhaps because I'm listening for it I can hear the engine strokes; makes me nervous, but I suppose I'll find out this weekend when I really get to ride.

Thanks again for the help.
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Old 02-14-2013, 11:39 AM   #14733
MrPulldown
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Originally Posted by a1fa View Post
Can a newer DR200SE be converted to 350 by using some of the 350 parts? Suzuki has really screwed the pooch by not making a newer DR350.... I don't consider the DRZ400 a successor, by any means.
Nope, not the same bike at all. If it was an older 250: yes. You might be able to bore out the cylinder.
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Old 02-14-2013, 01:57 PM   #14734
brianjonesphoto
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KonaTheHusky View Post
Threw the new bolt in earlier this week and topped up the oil. She took almost the full 1.8qts. Seems to run fine with no loss of power. Perhaps because I'm listening for it I can hear the engine strokes; makes me nervous, but I suppose I'll find out this weekend when I really get to ride.

Thanks again for the help.
I'm going to guess you over filled the oil if you put an additional 1.8 qt. the bike bike only holds 2qt with a filter change. If you topped it off reading the dipstick cold you have way too much oil in it.


Typos and nonsensical words courtesy of fat fingers on a make believe keyboard.
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Old 02-14-2013, 05:51 PM   #14735
shearboy2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brianjonesphoto View Post
I'm going to guess you over filled the oil if you put an additional 1.8 qt. the bike bike only holds 2qt with a filter change. If you topped it off reading the dipstick cold you have way too much oil in it.


Typos and nonsensical words courtesy of fat fingers on a make believe keyboard.

+ i

If damage was done you would hear some godawful rattling and clunking coming from the top end .
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Old 02-14-2013, 06:45 PM   #14736
RuggedExposure
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Well I should have been picking up my Terra tomorrow, but the dealership in El Paso says it wont be in until March.
I have already put money down on this bike...
Husky keeps setting the delivery date back on this bike and I have the haunting feeling that they are cutting off shipments already.

When I get off shift tomorrow morning I am going to be calling various dealerships in AZ and the one in Albuquerque to see if they have any on the showroom floor.

If any of these dealerships have one in stock, I'll drive the diesel over and pick it up tomorrow.

El Paso can stick it.
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Old 02-14-2013, 07:08 PM   #14737
a1fa
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Why dont you call Husqvarna America and find out where the closest bike is... or use one of the search engines? http://tinyurl.com/apnwp26
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Old 02-14-2013, 07:25 PM   #14738
RuggedExposure
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Quote:
Originally Posted by a1fa View Post
Why dont you call Husqvarna America and find out where the closest bike is... or use one of the search engines? http://tinyurl.com/apnwp26
Thanks for the link, didn't even think of that.
I was planning on attempting to put the DR back together when I got off tomorrow morning, but now it looks like I'm in for a road trip. According to the site, Tuscon has one in stock. Their phone will be ringing at 8:59 am.
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Old 02-14-2013, 07:26 PM   #14739
a1fa
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Let me know if DR is for sale? Have a friend looking.
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Old 02-14-2013, 07:36 PM   #14740
SloMo228
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Originally Posted by SloMo228 View Post
Well, I'm going to pick up a '96 DR350SE this afternoon. I wasn't really looking for a DR350 specifically, I was actually about to make a call about a nice-looking XL600R, but this one popped up on craigslist just down the road from me for a great price and it seems that it will fit the bill for commuting and trying to expand my riding from street-only to a bit of off-road. ...
Well, it's in the garage now. Someone gave it a terrible half-assed paintjob but it does start and run with no unseemly noises. Stalls as soon as you try to get on the throttle but I plan on cleaning out the carb just as SOP with every "new" bike I get. Any recommendations for a quality rebuild kit if it comes to that? I'll try to post up a picture tomorrow, it was too dark for a decent shot when I got it home today.
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Old 02-14-2013, 07:43 PM   #14741
RuggedExposure
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Originally Posted by a1fa View Post
Let me know if DR is for sale? Have a friend looking.
I'll let you know.

I'm still baffled as to why it started running like shit then quit all together. Not sure if you'd want to buy this unless you don't like your friend.

More than likely it will get turned into a parts bike if anything. The brand new Acerbis tank with mounting hardware and my luggage rack with boxes will be going up for sale first.
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Old 02-14-2013, 10:04 PM   #14742
heirhead
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brianjonesphoto View Post
I'm going to guess you over filled the oil if you put an additional 1.8 qt. the bike bike only holds 2qt with a filter change. If you topped it off reading the dipstick cold you have way too much oil in it.


Typos and nonsensical words courtesy of fat fingers on a make believe keyboard.
Hello,

Wish it had a sight glass.



Thanks,

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Old 02-14-2013, 10:42 PM   #14743
MadChap
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Checking Oil on a DR350

So, for the newb's let me quote Gregory Bender:

I never check the oil when the engine is cold because it will not tell me anything useful. Instead, I check the oil *EVERY* time I *return* home from a ride. When I return from a ride, I know the engine is fully warm and the oil is where it is supposed to be. I shut the engine off, pull off my helmet, grab a rag, and check the oil.

Unless your bike is extremely hot....Do follow his advice.

Do not screw in the dipstick to check the level, just place it down in the opening without screwing it in.

Yes the bike should be on the side stand.

No you don't need to wait three minutes, I always do mine within a minute.

Yes the bike takes 2 full quarts with an oil and filter change.

Yes there are two drain plugs, one on the bottom of the motor and one on the down tube of the frame.

Yes there should be a small O ring between the filter and the motor.

Yes you should stand the bike up straight to get all the oil out of the motor and filter housing when changing.

Should you change your filter with every oil change.....do you love your bike? Remember it's an air/oil cooled motor without an oil cooler, it runs at fairly high rpm's ( I do anyway) and it only has two quarts to do it's job. All clutch matter is trapped in the oil filter. You do the math.

Checking the oil after the bike idles for a few minutes from a cold start will not give you a good reading. If you follow Greg's advice you bike will always be ready for a ride.

Hope that clears this question up. Let's move on now. Please feel free to refer others to this post in the future. If I got anything wrong, prove it to me and I'd be glad to edit my post.

Tim
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Old 02-14-2013, 11:10 PM   #14744
heirhead
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Hello,

Thank you for your response.

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Old 02-14-2013, 11:13 PM   #14745
BigD_83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RuggedExposure View Post
I'll let you know.

I'm still baffled as to why it started running like shit then quit all together. Not sure if you'd want to buy this unless you don't like your friend.

More than likely it will get turned into a parts bike if anything. The brand new Acerbis tank with mounting hardware and my luggage rack with boxes will be going up for sale first.
What happened when you got it all buttoned up again?
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