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Old 02-16-2013, 01:54 PM   #14776
ADV BUM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slartidbartfast View Post
Hey guys! We're used to thread creep on here - and it's pretty well tolerated which tends to keep things civil. ...but diesel trucks - Really!

Sorry about that, back to the Husky topic!
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Old 02-16-2013, 03:53 PM   #14777
Greg Bender
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Location: Cave Creek, Arizona, United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RuggedExposure View Post
As for the DR350, I'm going to town to pick up some supplies and will be trying to reassemble it today.
I may have to get on here and ask some questions hoping for quick responses as per putting the head back on and getting the timing right (hint hint Mr. Bender).
Wish me luck.
I don't have much in the way of advice. I just followed the workshop manual and it was all pretty easy and straightforward. All the same, ask before assuming and be careful not to strip the 6mm threads.

As with most thing mechanical: the slower you go, the quicker you'll be finished (especially true when lacing and truing wheels).

Best of luck!

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 02-16-2013, 04:02 PM   #14778
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Bender View Post
I don't have much in the way of advice. I just followed the workshop manual and it was all pretty easy and straightforward. All the same, ask before assuming and be careful not to strip the 6mm threads.

As with most thing mechanical: the slower you go, the quicker you'll be finished (especially true when lacing and truing wheels).

Best of luck!

Regards,

Gregory Bender
Ya, thats what I'm using as my guide right now (and trying to ignore the grammatical errors from poor translation).

I've cleaned the piston, removed the rings, cleaned them and replaced.
Cleaned up the head and valve faces...

Now I'm trying to figure out if there are any markings on the timing chain or unique links that designate anything for timing... And they all look the same.

So I'm going to replace the jug, torque things down, and then try to get the timing right with the cam.
As far as I can tell the flywheel mark needs to be set with the mark on the crankcase and the 'engraved line mark' on the cam needs to be parallel to the head surface.

Does this sound right?
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Old 02-16-2013, 04:15 PM   #14779
Greg Bender
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RuggedExposure View Post
Ya, thats what I'm using as my guide right now (and trying to ignore the grammatical errors from poor translation).

I've cleaned the piston, removed the rings, cleaned them and replaced.
Cleaned up the head and valve faces...

Now I'm trying to figure out if there are any markings on the timing chain or unique links that designate anything for timing... And they all look the same.

So I'm going to replace the jug, torque things down, and then try to get the timing right with the cam.
As far as I can tell the flywheel mark needs to be set with the mark on the crankcase and the 'engraved line mark' on the cam needs to be parallel to the head surface.

Does this sound right?
Yep, make sure you can see the line on the crankshaft, "T", IIRC. then make sure the line on the cam is parallel when you fit the gear and chain. Chain is continuous and has no special links.
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Old 02-16-2013, 04:25 PM   #14780
Pilotnut
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WANTED - DR350 Top-End

Just picked up a 97 DR350se that sucked an exhaust valve . Now I am desperate need of a 1994 or newer head/cam/valve assembly. Any help in locating one would be appreciated.

Thanks
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Old 02-16-2013, 05:03 PM   #14781
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Location: high speed boogie land, Sunny Ca.
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Can some one tell me what piston ring gap should be for a 1990 dr350? I can find it I need head and cylinder torque. Man a rebuild with out the shop manual is a lot harder.
I think valves should be intake 0.05mm-0.10mm ex0.08-0.13mm is this right? I am still looking but have not found this info Bert
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Old 02-16-2013, 06:52 PM   #14782
2bold2getold
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigNastybrp View Post
Can some one tell me what piston ring gap should be for a 1990 dr350? I can find it I need head and cylinder torque. Man a rebuild with out the shop manual is a lot harder.
I think valves should be intake 0.05mm-0.10mm ex0.08-0.13mm is this right? I am still looking but have not found this info Bert




You are gonna need a book or use Gregs online manual. Although, If a guy doesn't have much prior experience, it's gonna be tough with that manual. I looked up the cam timing procedure in my book, and it's kinda hard to figure out. :-(

2bold2getold screwed with this post 02-16-2013 at 07:00 PM
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Old 02-16-2013, 07:28 PM   #14783
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thanks you thats what I needed. you sir are a rock star!
back to work on my $320+$241 in parts=$561 dr350s with 7333 miles

thanks Bert

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2bold2getold View Post




You are gonna need a book or use Gregs online manual. Although, If a guy doesn't have much prior experience, it's gonna be tough with that manual. I looked up the cam timing procedure in my book, and it's kinda hard to figure out. :-(
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Old 02-16-2013, 07:55 PM   #14784
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So far so good.

I hope.




I need to change the oil on my Husky. It has 101 miles on it
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Old 02-16-2013, 08:46 PM   #14785
Ghostyman
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Location: LA face with the Oakland booty
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I'm going to change my fork gaiters soon. Do the forks have to come off or can the gaiters be slid up from the bottom after taking off the front wheel?
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Old 02-16-2013, 09:23 PM   #14786
Chiknmunky
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I would say the forks have to come off.
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Old 02-16-2013, 09:40 PM   #14787
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Originally Posted by Ghostyman View Post
I'm going to change my fork gaiters soon. Do the forks have to come off or can the gaiters be slid up from the bottom after taking off the front wheel?
If you wanted to replace the fork seals, then you could slide them on from the bottom. But I don't think they will go on from the bottom over the lower sliders, besides it looks about as easy to just leave the wheel on, remove the cable and hose and slide the forks out of the clamps. Might be easier with a little help, though.
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Old 02-17-2013, 10:08 AM   #14788
Hotmamaandme
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Location: Gardnerville NV
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DR parts for sale

Just added a JAGG oil cooler to my parts sale

Link to thread: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=863345

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Old 02-17-2013, 10:41 AM   #14789
pdxthmper
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Location: Portland OR
Oddometer: 377
new owner with a few questions

Just picked up a 98 350se with 6900 miles in prety good shape, but now its time make it run really well.
1. With the CV carb, stock pipe and UNI filter at sea level what is a good starting point for jetting I have seen 140 main but what about the pilot?
2. Is the "T" mod for both CV and Pumper carbs?

right now the bike is hard to start and wants to die if you chop the thottle quickly also stubles a little in the mid range, is fine at high rpm / speed. I am expecting this to get cleaned up with a carb cleaning new jets, and a valve adj / check.

Projects for it before it gets handed over to my new to riding girlfriend
1. engine tune up: carb, oil change, valves, air filter
2. #3 lowering link, slide forks up
3. New Clutch cable
4. Clean / lube throttle cables
5. new grips and heaters

Pretty basic stuff anything else should be looking at while it is apart?
thanks
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Old 02-17-2013, 11:16 AM   #14790
Ghostyman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2bold2getold View Post
If you wanted to replace the fork seals, then you could slide them on from the bottom. But I don't think they will go on from the bottom over the lower sliders, besides it looks about as easy to just leave the wheel on, remove the cable and hose and slide the forks out of the clamps. Might be easier with a little help, though.
Thanks. I'll pull the forks off and give them a good inspecting along with swapping gaiters.
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