DR350 Thread

[daverbmxer]

I am toying with the idea of riding my '91 DR350S 1000 miles each way from eastern North Dakota to SE British Columbia, on highways the whole way. Once I get to BC I will see steeper rocky logging roads that require lower gearing. Currently my bike is set up so it's at 6000 rpm at 60 mph. I read that this is a good middle ground for dual sport riding. However I would like to overdrive it a bit more to get the RPMs down a bit and cruise at as low of RPM as possible at 65 mph. It does have the power for any taller gearing on the pavement right? Or is there a point you get to that you start lugging the engine and mpg goes down and temps go up or something? I would then like to bring a smaller sprocket and swap its place with the larger one once I get into BC. This is only a 10 minute job or so and seems to make a lot of sense to me. Does anyone else do that?

Also, kind of a newbie question, but what is the gearing cable fed off of? Will the speeds be correct for say a 13 tooth AND a 15 tooth sprocket? I do not think so, but I thought I would ask. I have a feeling with the larger front sprocket I will be a few mph faster than indicated and with a smaller front sprocket be a few mph slower than indicated.

[boardforever]

Not sure on the gearing preferences, but your speedometer is driven off of your front wheel, so gearing makes no difference.

[daverbmxer]

Excellent, thank you. I guess I should have known that too had I put 2 and 2 together. Hopefully someone will chime in on the gearing then.

[2bold2getold]

Originally Posted by daverbmxer

Excellent, thank you. I guess I should have known that too had I put 2 and 2 together. Hopefully someone will chime in on the gearing then.

I think your primary and final drive is different than my "98SE, but here's my impression. One tooth on the front seemed to change about 400 to 500 RPM. Stock is 15 on mine and is a good all around compromise. 14 is a little low for hiway speeds, 16 felt more relaxed but I didn't feel it would pull a much higher speed. Maybe a little too tall. Seems to me Suzuki got the gearing about right on this bike. I can use all three front sprockets with the same chain. You might need to get out and give it a try to find what works for you.

[Greg Bender]

Originally Posted by daverbmxer

I am toying with the idea of riding my '91 DR350S 1000 miles each way from eastern North Dakota to SE British Columbia, on highways the whole way. Once I get to BC I will see steeper rocky logging roads that require lower gearing. Currently my bike is set up so it's at 6000 rpm at 60 mph. I read that this is a good middle ground for dual sport riding. However I would like to overdrive it a bit more to get the RPMs down a bit and cruise at as low of RPM as possible at 65 mph. It does have the power for any taller gearing on the pavement right? Or is there a point you get to that you start lugging the engine and mpg goes down and temps go up or something? I would then like to bring a smaller sprocket and swap its place with the larger one once I get into BC. This is only a 10 minute job or so and seems to make a lot of sense to me. Does anyone else do that?

Also, kind of a newbie question, but what is the gearing cable fed off of? Will the speeds be correct for say a 13 tooth AND a 15 tooth sprocket? I do not think so, but I thought I would ask. I have a feeling with the larger front sprocket I will be a few mph faster than indicated and with a smaller front sprocket be a few mph slower than indicated.

For highway use, I run a 15/41 combo on my 1993 DR350 (dirt). This even works very well for non-steep trail work. When the going gets a bit rougher/steeper, I need to swap out to a 14/41 combo. As you say, the swap is very easy on the DR350.

I've never fit a 16 countershaft sprocket. The reason I haven't is that I would loose the case protector in the process (I already had to grind a bit on it to get the 15 countershaft sprocket to fit without rubbing). I'm not sure I would gain much by fitting a 16. On flat roads I bet it wouldn't be a problem. But I predict I'd need to drop a gear to get up some hills, etc.

Hope this helps!

Regards,

Gregory Bender

[cwc]

Originally Posted by thump!

Grips are usually around 35-40 watts... About the same as your brake light. That's only 3 amps. Doesn't take much of a wire for that.

The B/W wire is ground and the brown wire appears to be for a parking light (if there is one on your bike) as it is connected to the battery in the "park" position. It is also connected to the tail light and license plate light.

Keep in mind your brake light only draws 21 watts and is on for short periods of time. The grips as stated can draw 40 watts and are typically on for much longer periods than the brake light so there is more opportunity for heating.

[Greg Bender]

Here are a couple of links that may help with wire gauge selection, etc.

http://thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/p...t_circuits.htm

http://thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/p...lculations.htm

Regards,

Gregory Bender

[Zane Neher]

Going to do my valves today or tomorrow. Depends if I break down and go get food or not..

To clarify, the intake valves are carb side and exhaust is exhaust side. (Probably a really stupid question)

Is there any reason why I can't use a tiny box wrench or small pliers to adjust the valves? I ask because I have those. The Tool/deck screw I would have to go to my shop to pick it up (hindsight) and it would make the engine not so stone cold when I get back.. Im off today and the bike is my DD so every day except today the bike will be used.

[2bold2getold]

Originally Posted by Zane Neher

Going to do my valves today or tomorrow. Depends if I break down and go get food or not..

To clarify, the intake valves are carb side and exhaust is exhaust side. (Probably a really stupid question)

Is there any reason why I can't use a tiny box wrench or small pliers to adjust the valves? I ask because I have those. The Tool/deck screw I would have to go to my shop to pick it up (hindsight) and it would make the engine not so stone cold when I get back.. Im off today and the bike is my DD so every day except today the bike will be used.

Yup, exhaust-front/exhaust, intake-back/carb. Unless you've got a square box end, that's probably not gonna work. I just drilled a small hole in a piece of steel and squared it out with a small jewellers file. Works good. I used to have to make most all of my own special tools cuz there was no other option.

[Zane Neher]

Awesome, thanks.
I was robbed, the girlfriend made me bring her food to work, so Can't do it til saturday night. Ill grab the deck screws while at work.

Thanks again.

[markk900]

I've always used a pair of pliers for the adjuster, and a small closed end wrench for the nut. Not really a big problem, though I can see the proper tool (bought or made) would make things a little easier (not a lot!)

[dirtyron]

make a simple valve adjustment tool from a square head deck screw.you'll figure it out

[EastBoundAndDown]

I run 16/41 for longer road rides. 6K rpm at GPS 65mph.

For general farting around, 15/41 or 14/41.

[boardforever]

Put a new fender and flush mount signals on the DR tonight, they look great, thanks to Jesse @ Kientech.

[a1fa]

My Jesse exhaust is here! My Jesse exhaust is here!